Ultimate California Wine Blog

Napa is becoming world famous for qualities wines, and Miljenko "Mike" Grgich (pronounced Grrr-gich) was instrumental in developing that fame. Back in 1976, there was a panel of French judges who shockingly chose some American wines during a blind tasting. Most have heard of this, but most remember the red wine that was chosen (Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars which will be reviewed later). Many do not remember that there was also a white wine, a 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, produced by a young winemaker, Mike Grgich.

With the famous win under his belt, Grgich catapulted by fame, launched his own brand, Grgich Hills. After years of fabulous reviews, the business has grown tremendously and now, in his 80s, has gone on to even more remarkable accomplishments beyond the Paris tasting. Hearkening back to his Croatian roots and following his gut feelings about his own heritage, had extensive studies made on Zinfandel grapes and was gratified when it was discovered that the history of the grape is the very same as Crljenik Kasteljanski, an old, historic varietal from his homeland.

The tasting room at Grgich is alive with activity and visitors, as it should. The winery is spearheading the new practice of biodynamic wine production, an extensive model of organic farming. The winery offers extensive educational series and is a great joy to visit – if just to experience the history.

2003 Fume Blanc, Estate Grown, Napa Valley – Fume Blanc is not a grape, but a style of aging done to Sauvignon Blanc. This had tremendous pink grapefruit aromas and tingled a bit on the tongue upon entry. Exciting, clean and crisp, this was a truly fun wine. $21

2002 Chardonnay, Napa Valley – One-half of this wine saw new French oak and it spent seven months on lees. Kiwi and tropical fruits dominated the bouquet and gave way to a bit of green apple. $35

2001 Chardonnay, Carneros Selection – 100% new French oak almost overwhelmed me in the initial smell. The oak subsided a bit to reveal more tropical fruits and butterscotch. The mouth feel was round and layered with citrus and honeysuckle and finished with a hint of toasted vanilla. $52

2001 Merlot, Napa Valley – Robust nose of Oriental spice which backs away to reveal cherry fruits. Sharp entry in mouth warms a bit to reveal more dark berries with a cedar finish. $38

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Immediate aroma of green bell pepper and cedar. Harsh, acidic mid-palate gives way to more moderate ripe black fruit. Tannic finish. $50

1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Green bell pepper bouquet up front reveals cocoa afterwards. Bright and tannic for its age. No price given.

1996 Estate Cabernet – Again, bell pepper immediately in the nose but subsides for more layered cocoa and spice qualities. Berry mid-palate and then blackberry. Long, even finish. Supple and elegant. $65

2001 Zinfandel, Napa Valley – Hmmmm… Bell pepper nose then cinnamon and clove. Fruit-filled entry into the mouth which finishes a tad dry and acidic. $25

2002 Violetta, Late Harvest, Napa Valley – Huge bouquet of honey and vanilla. A lovely contrast of acidity enters the mouth and produces layers and layers of apricot and butterscotch that don’t quit. $65

Grgich Hills Cellars ~ 1829 St. Helena Highway ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-2784

Rutherford Grove Winery & Vineyards is one of those wineries that had no gimmicky architecture to set it apart and a sign of script letters alluding to elegance. Other than that, I know nothing about them.

The building is vine-covered and the tasting room expansive and inviting. I was very intrigued by a stone wall fountain found immediately outside the tasting room door which seemingly runs around the entire building and culminates in front of the entrance.

I must admit I was less than impressed with the service as my pourer admitted up front that she was changing jobs soon to go to another winery and any attempt on my part to engage in conversation to learn about Rutherford Grove failed a bit. I did learn that they have 28 acres of vineyards in the area, but I discerned nothing about who the owners are or what their history might be in the valley.

It was only through their website that I learned they do showcase local artists in the tasting room and around a fireplace which made the tasting room more comfortable and homey. Wineries that are involved in the arts in some fashion are a big plus for me. There are many who simply support the arts by purchasing art and some that utilize curators for more formal exhibits. I don’t know how extensive the Rutherford Grove winery is involved with the arts, but the exhibit alone was encouraging for me.

2003 Sauvignon Blanc – Crisp, green apple nose. A very bright, crisp offering with a hint of melon in the mid-palate. Textured acidity – not warm. $14

2000 Sangiovese – Tremendous raspberry nose which was very bright with a hint dark orange peel and cinnamon. Mouth feel that is acidic and leathery with a thin, hot cinnamon finish. $30

2000 Merlot – Dark garnet color. Cedar notes dominate the nose but give way to some dark cherry. Hot and spicy on entry, a tannic finish makes me want to try this wine again in five years. $28

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – Complex dark fruit and spice bouquet just barely hide a hint of oak. Ultra-ripe fruit dominate the mouth entry and chocolate-covered cherries appear mid-palate. Long dry finish was tight and the affordable price indicates it will develop well over ten or fifteen years. Tight and tannic now will mellow nicely over time. $40

2001 Petit Sirah, St. Helena-Spring Creek Vineyards – Overly oak nose gives way to clove and cinnamon spice. Dark brambleberry powers in the mouth in lush and fat tones. A slightly metallic finish makes me want to age this wine as well — at least five years. $35

Rutherford Grove ~ 1673 Highway 29 ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-0544

Whitehall Lane Winery is another that has intrigued me for some time. In a land where architecture and buildings are built to entice the visitor, the owners and builders of wineries often go to the extreme in their excess, constructing mock-Victorians or mission replicas hearkening back to California’s heritage. Whitehall Lane always grabbed my eye partly due to its engaging mustard color, but also due to its Cubist tendancies in design.

Entering the winery, the mustard colors of the exterior immediately contrast with the warm, dark green of the interior walls and deep orange floors. Large, panel paintings continue the vibrancy of color and warmth. Behind the tasting bar, large glass windows add depth of view to the stainless steel tanks and wine-making area. Apparently an accident, but no less intriguing are the half-round windows which, on the exterior of the building, have made what looks like glasses in that the stains from rains have produced an ethereal ‘stem’ to the bowl of the wine glass.

2002 Chardonnay, Carneros – 33% ML. Exciting lemon zest aromas with a hint of dark fruit, almost fig-like. Warm entry and nicely balanced. A citrus finish did not overwhelm in acidity. $26

2002 Merlot, Napa Valley – 7% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Bouquet of subtle oak and dark fruit. Blackberry fills the mouth with a mid-palate of slightly acidic black plum. A tight, tannic finish indicates the wine should cellar a good eight to ten years to develop further. $26

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 12% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Dark vanilla and spice aromas give way to brambleberry notes. Concentrated berry and plum on entry with cocoa on the finish. Very balanced mid-palate with a slightly acidic, bright finish. $40

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 100% Cabernet made in 100% new French oak. Tremendous oak nose somewhat overwhelms. Additional swirling produces more layered aromas of cherry and red berry. Very warm, even entry. Layered flavors and a silky spice punctuate the the elegant finish. $160 (magnum only)

2004 Belmuscato, California Dessert Wine – 14.2% alcohol with 9% residual sugar. 60% Muscat Alexandria and 40% Orange Muscat. I’m a sucker for dessert wines and this was quite fun. Very crisp and exciting, not the sickly sweet, syrupy wine most orange muscat produce. Warm peach fills the mouth which counter with layers of spice, honey, and orange peel. Must get one for the summer! $22

Whitehall Lane ~ 1563 St. Helena Highway ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-9454

Cathy Corison is one of the shining stars in Napa. With the recent rise of interest in women winemakers, it is no surprise that Cathy’s own winery, Corison, is one to keep an eye on. I also just recently blogged Long Meadow Ranch which she consults for. I have long been curious about her own winery as the logo is unlike most in the valley. Somewhat primitive and primal, I was told it is the symbol for rain. Also, more hidden, is the symbol of the sprouting seed which can be found on the cork. The tasting room is a simple board set atop a couple of barrels within the barn, which contains the wine-making facilities and offices. This is a stop for those looking for great wine. There is no glitz or glamor – and there doesn’t need to be.

2001 Corazon Gewurztraminer – From Mendocino vineyards, less than .2% residual sugar makes this an exciting California German. Little or no color, tremendous kiwi and tropical fruit aromas profound the bright entry which smooths out in a long, elegant finish. $20.00

2000 Helios Cabernet Sauvignon – Extremely bright blueberry aromas with a hint of green bell pepper behind it (just barely a whiff). Cocoa on the entry and a tad acidic on the mid-palate, there is a finish of black pepper. $28.00

2000 Corison Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Medium fruit forward with similar blueberry, chocolate, and pepper found in the Helios, however a tad brighter with a longer finish. $48.00

2001 Corison Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Dark cherry and dark cocoa aromas with a hint of tobacco. Very tight, even palate midway with a bright, enticing finish. $58.00

2000 Corison "Kronos Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon – Extremely rich nose with complex spice and dark berry bouquet. Great entry which is soft and supple. A whisper of eucalyptus on the finish punctuates. $75.00

Corison ~ 987 St. Helena Highway ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-0826

Cakebread is one of the local wineries with an outstanding reputation for quality and hospitality — and now I know why. Jack and Dolores Cakebread have been producing wine in the Rutherford appellation for over thirty years. In that time, they have helped pioneer the art of food and wine pairing and are bringing those philosophies to the those outside the valley through their cookbook, The Cakebread Cookbook – Napa Valley Cookbook.

Cakebread is also one of the appointment-only wineries, but somewhat of an oddity as it lies on the busy Highway 29, which sees so much tourist traffic. There no flashy sign and a small collection of buildings  almost hide among a cluster of large bushes to dissuade the casual visitor. The logistics of the tasting are finely tuned. You enter the reception room to check in before going to the retail area where you presented with your glass and a taste of Sauvignon Blanc, waiting for your host to begin.

There are a variety of levels of tasting offered; a simple tasting, a full tour and tasting, a wine and food tasting experience, or a wine sensory evaluation tasting. I opted for the simple tasting and yet it still included a partial tour as the lack of a central, be-all tasting area makes for a more intimate, one-on-one setting for experiencing the wine. The schedule for tastings are finely timed and after sipping the SauvBlanc for a few minutes, our host takes us away to a corner in the barrel room to continue with the line-up.

Upon entering the barrel room, we could hear the jocularity of another group already well underway on the other side of the barrels. From the side of the room we were tasting, a stunning view of the adjacent gardens was available which only enticed the desire to return for the full in depth tour and tasting as I witnessed other groups being led around. Our own pouring host was delightfully slow and deliberate, not rushing anyone through their experience, fully explaining each wine before pouring, and elaborating on its production or potential food pairing during the tasting. Also offered with the tastings were fabulously informative cards which not only provided technical production information, but a suggested recipe for pairing the wine with food. A great idea…

2003 Sauvignon Blanc – Green apple and kiwi tones on the nose. Acidic entrance which blossomed into warm peach and fig flavors in the mouth. A bright, invigorating finish with enticing crispness. $19.00

2003 Chardonnay, Napa Valley – The mainstay of the winery, this wine makes up 100,000 of the 400,000 cases produced. A non-ML chardonnay which sees eight to ten months in oak. A hint of green apple aromas gives way to a warmer pear bouquet. Sweeter upon entry than I would have anticipated with a full, silky mouth feel and more earthy notes. A slightly dry, acidic finish which was a lovely punctuation. $34.00

2002 Chardonnay Reserve, Napa Valley – 17% ML, this wine sees fourteen months in oak. Engaging pear and peach aromas anticipate the classic butterscotch entry into the mouth. Some acid on the back palate produces more melon qualities with a full and rich long finish. $49.00

2002 Merlot, Napa Valley – This Merlot has 7% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. Immediate cocoa and blackberry bouquet subsides for a dark plummy nose. Full bodied and more tannic than I might have liked, the dark berry and spice mid-palate will definitely expand and balance over time. $48.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 11% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Very enticing aromas of berry, currant, cocoa, and chocolate-covered cherries anticipate the opulent fig and vanilla mid-palate. Very lush and full, a cassis finish continues to entice. $55.00

2002 Syrah, Carneros-Napa Valley – Inky, inky color. Exciting black pepper and dark Oriental spice intrigue the tongue. Entry of black cherry, vanilla, and roasted fig gives way to a finish of roasted meat. Huge wine. Can’t wait to try again! $43.00

Cakebread ~ 8300 St. Helena Highway ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-1067