Joseph Phelps Vineyards – 6
Friday, February 4th, 2005Phelps lies just off the Silverado Trail, up a small, hidden road, and around a few winding, ascending roads. Upon approach, one is greeted with a large welcoming gate through which meanders an inviting road. Technically, it is considered "Spring Valley" which is not a formal appellation, but lies near enough to St. Helena that I have categorized it there. Established in 1972, Joseph Phelps had Walter Schug at his side and it was in 1973 that Phelps created his first Pinot Noir. (Of note, Schug would later go on to be instrumental in the development of the Carneros appellation and establish his own Pinot-based winery at a later date).
There are a number of impressive buildings which greet you from the walk way. You can hear the bottling line in the distance and it is obvious this is a working winery on a large scale. The impressions of grandeur and magnitude are greatly emphasized upon entering the tasting room. It is elegant but also very functional as one spies working wine books, flip charts, and a projection television for instruction as part of the complicated set of tastings they offer.
When you call Phelps for a tasting, they offer a variety of levels; from a simple sit-down tasting to a more complicated, blend-your-own varietal tasting. Having little need to blend my own, I opted for a simple sit-down, wanting to cut to the chase on what Phelps has to offer. However, before I offer my notes, it is fabulous to know that the staff is extremely accomodating in showing you around the facilities. From their location on the ledge of a valley, outside seats offer a stunning view. There is an adjacent meeting room (also for informal tastings if the rain is falling) which is completely surrounded by a ledge near the ceiling with thousands of bottles from all over the world, most dating back several decades. One can only glance at a single bottle and immediately be drawn back to what may it have contained at some point in its life.
Because of the history of this winery, there is a heritage of "firsts" that cannot be denied. From their website: "The 1974 Insignia — released in the spring of 1978 — was the first
Bordeaux-style blend produced in California under a proprietary label.
The release of the 1974 Syrah in 1977 sparked industry-wide interest in
a remarkable French varietal whose plantings in California had
disappeared and been virtually forgotten for over half a century. And
in 1990, after years of research, a whole new family of Rhone-style
wines was introduced under the Vin du Mistral label and included Syrah,
Viognier, Grenache Rosé, and a delicious red wine blend called Le
Mistral."
As you can see, a multitude of varietals to consider. In whites, a Viogner, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and a white Pastiche. The reds include Syrahs, Rhones, blends, a red Pastiche, Merlot, and (of course), Cabernets. Being in that Cabernet mood, I limited my tastings as such:
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon – Rich, opulent nose with dark berry and plum aromas. Initially a bit thin on the tongue but warms and fills a bit. Very dark purple color and tight, compressed tannins that I can only imagine will blossom over time.
2001 Insignia Cabernet – Earth on the nose (Stag’s Leap District!). Very opulent, purple jeweled tones. After a swirl, more vegetal aromas develop. Rich and full on the tongue with a long, smooth finish and even tannins. Full, consistent plummy extraction.
2001 Cabernet Sauvignon; Backus Vineyards (Oakville) – This bottle was opened in front of me and was obviously very, very tight. Extensive swirling produced some initial herbal aromas which gave way to a bit of spice. In the mouth, the tannins were already smooth and accessible as the finish gave way to brambles. I enjoyed all these wines immensely.
Joseph Phelps Vineyards ~
200 Taplin Road ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-2745