Archive for February 17th, 2005

Ledson – 21

Thursday, February 17th, 2005

Ledson_sign_2Along the Highway 12 corridor lies an amazing building. It is the home of Ledson winery and the building is an Addams Family-like black brick, Gothic castle. There is nothing like it in either Sonoma or Napa — or elsewhere that I can recall. Although it is easy to ascribe the Addams Family as potential inhabitants, it is truly an artistic marvel with a slate stile roof, turrets, spires, and arched entrance ways which contrast with the white window frames, offering a clean sense of stylistic design.

Ledson_bldg_1Arriving through the gates, a slow, meandering drive amongst the vines towards fountains and beautifully manicured laws, puts the visitor at awe with his or her surroundings. Much of what Gothic architecture is meant to do is inspire. Based out of 10th Century France, it was an aesthetic movement coming from an era where paganism had just been extinguished and the Catholic Church was establishing itself as the sole spiritual power in the land.

Ledson_doorsThe outline of the architectural movement is derived from the Carolingian developments of Byzantine modifications of the early Christian basilica. In short, it included double western towers, a central tower over the crossing, and a threefold interior system of arcade, triforium, and clerestory. The architecture was mostly seen in churches of the era and was meant to instill fear and adoration in a higher being, namely God.

Ledson_entranceWhy am I writing a short dissertation on Gothic architecture, might you ask? Well, when you arrive at Ledson, whether or not you understand the cultural significance and import, the bottom line is that the imposing structure automatically instills a level of adoration that has yet to be earned, be it a church or a winery. Upon entering the hallowed hallways of Ledson, one is immediately presented with tremendous vaulted ceilings, sweeping stairways, and an imposing chandelier. It is all stunningly beautiful.

Ledson_tasting_barRoaming around the establishment, I learned that there are no less than NINE different tasting bars. I was there on a rainy February afternoon and the place was swamped with customers with only four of the nine bars actually serving that day. Being able to finally muscle close enough to a bar for a taste, I was a tad discouraged when I inquired about tasting their Pinot. "Oh, that’s the worst wine we make!" I was told. Not being encouraged, I simply asked him to pour me the wines that were recommended. And while I know I tasted six or seven, I stopped taking notes after the third wine…

2001 Alexander Valley Sangiovese – Aromas of ethyl alcohol. Hot. Burned going down.

2001 Old Vine Zinfandel – Bouquet of petrol. A hint of fruit and spice. No finish.

2002 Bellisimo- A blend of Merlot and Cabernet. Concetrated black fruit nose which belied the gasoline taste.

Ledson_sales_roomTo get out of Ledson, one must manage the maze of retail. It is rather clever that you can’t go out the way you came in, you have to exit a side entrance through a tremendously-stocked marketplace. It is truly an amazing store that includes cold cuts and cheeses, an espresso bar, a dessert fridge filled with handmade goodies, gifts, and of course, their wine…

Ledson ~ 7335 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12) ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95409 ~ 707-537-3810

Kunde Estate Winery – 20

Thursday, February 17th, 2005

Kunde_sign Kunde Estate Winery and Vineyards is located along that stretch of roadway between downtown Sonoma and Santa Rosa, in the community of Kenwood. I realize now that I had a huge misconception about Kunde. I don’t know where I got it, but I have to admit I thought them more along the lines of your standard supermarket wine. I was pleasantly surprised. Also, from here on out, I will try and provide bottle prices on the wines I taste. Who knows, maybe I’ll go back and put them into the older tastings as well…

Kunde_bldgI didn’t know that Kunde have been land stewards going back five generations to 1904. Part of this legacy means that they take care of the land, protecting and nuturing it to assure its continued well-being and positive development. While not being certified organic, they do avoid the use of synthetic pesticides and utilize practices that promote the development of a healthy ecosystem.

Kunde_tasting_barThe tasting room is expansive and comfortable. Huge, vaulted ceilings and a large, free-standing tasting bar helps the visitor to keep from having that claustrophobic, boxed-in feel which can happen with smaller establishments. The retail bits are there, but are not intrusive and tastefully displayed. The pouring staff are helpful and informed (well, almost too informed, but I think that was just one guy trying to show off some arcane insider knowledge).  And the wine was quite decent!

Kunde_entrance2003 Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc – I loved that this wine was made with no oak, but purely stainless steel. Citrus aromas and a touch of mint with a very nicely balanced, full pineapple filling the taste. $16.00

2002 Reserve Chardonnay – Well, at a 100% malo, this is not a chardonnay that is typically a style I appreciate. However, I was pleasantly surprised at the extremely elegant sensation of honey in the nose and on the tongue. A tad of toasted oak on the finish which was very long and silky. $35.00

2003 Viognier – Tremendous green apple and and honeysuckle bouquet. Exotic floral notes and jasmine filled the mouth and a bite of pepper provided an exciting ending. I would have bought this one, had I remember my wallet! $23.00

2002 Gewurztraminer – At 2002, I think this wine may be a bit beyond its peak. The guy pouring for us was trying to find the winemaker’s notes as I was very curious as to the residual sugar level. He seemed to think it was less than 1%, but I think it was closer to 2% or 3%. I did get some elegant floral notes but there was a metallic finish which may have also been due to the wine being a bit too cold. $13.00

2001 Sangiovese – Strong candy store smell, which I like in a San! Very full-bodied and even tannins produced a peppery, spicy finish. $24.00

2001 Barbera – Another wine with that candy store smell. I wonder if I should explain that — it is an aroma which used to be prevalent in penny candy stores of the 1960s and early 1970s. Incomparable, exotic aroma for a kid. Still there in the olfactory memory. This wine and the previous San had it. Well, tasting this Barbera gave some dried fruit and floral notes and a huge, spicy finish of clove and summac. $24.00

2000 Founder’s Selection Claret – 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. Obvious Franc bouquet of vegetation and herbs. The palate provides a bit of berry fruit but more mint and the finish is all green bell pepper. $25.00

2001 Century Vines Zinfandel – Made form 122 year-old Zinfandel vines. Spicy nose and massive roasted plum entry. Wanes a bit to a tinny finish. $28.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Drummond Vineyard – Surprisingly bricky color, due to its age. Berry bouquets and a decent structure despite some acidic tannins. The color of the wine would suggest it is older than it is and I think it would probably age quite well. Some elegance there. $70.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon – 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Merlot. Pronounced bell pepper nose and what I think was bright, enticing fruit which had been dulled by oxydation due to being opened the day before. $21.00

Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards ~ 10155 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5501

Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards ~ 10155 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5501