Long Meadow Ranch – 29
Saturday, February 26th, 2005
Long Meadow Ranch could very well be one of the most impressive establishments I have visited. As an appointment-only winery, the long, single-lane, twisty road up the hillside of the Mayacamas Mountains, brings one to an unassuming white gate with a non-ornate, handmade sign indicating you have arrived. That incline up to elevation 1,100 keeps them from the Rutherford appellation (which ends at elevation 600 or so).
Continuing up the road, the building which awaits you is almost cathedral-like in its architecture. Stark and elegant, with geometric angles rising up to greet the sky, it is not ostentatious or garish. It is not painted a bright color or decorated with unnecessary ornamentation. Dare I say, it is a Howard Roark-like structure. It seems that when Ted and Laddie Hall started the winery, they dug the caves first (a pretty smart move, considering the number of wineries whose caves are built after the fact). With all the dirt excavated from that cave construction, an ingenious architect decided to construct the building with rammed earth. Rammed earth buildings is a process of sustainable architecture which is earth-friendly reducing the drain on dependence of non-renewable energy sources.
Besides the stunning building as a fabulous winery, the Halls’ 650+ acres are used to raise 250 head of Highland cattle, an organic vegetable garden, and olive tress. As I mentioned back in the B.R. Cohn post, a number of wineries also produce olive oil. What I didn’t realize is that while Long Meadow Ranch is one of those who grows olives for oil, they may be one of the very few to have an authentic frantoio — the stone grinders used to crush the olives for oil.
I was extremely fortunate to taste a vertical of their entire production as well as some as-yet-unreleased wines. Nothing but Cabernet Sauvignon is produced and it was halfway through the tasting that I realized why I was so impressed with the wine: Not only is it produced from mountain vineyards, but every single wine tasted is below 14% alcohol. This is almost unheard of and when I queried about how this was accomplished, Ted explained that because of the vineyards’ placement, it sees 45 minutes more southerly sun than most other wineries. It is all part of the computations of hang-time and brix levels and it made for amazingly accessible wines which were a joy to taste:
1994 – Perfectly aged. 100% Cabernet. Aromas of sweet oak and subtle cedar with a hint of eucalyptus and blueberry. Slightly bricky color. Smooth and even and robust. Long, elegant finish. (No price)
1995 – 100% Cabernet. Dark garnet color. Opulent dark fruit with a whisper of oak and then mint. Blackberry entry on mouth with ultra soft tannins. Long silky tones with a cocoa finish. $75
1996 – 100% Cabernet. HUGE, rich and complex with dates and dark fruit. More cocoa and clove on a second whiff. Balanced with long spicy notes throughout. $85
1997 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Purple color. Such supple and elegant aromas of nutmeg and spicey clove with a hint of cinnamon. Wild raspberry still heightens the tannins with an even, layered eucalyptus finish. $85
1998 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Very bright fruit of raspberry with citrus peel after it. Very dark and supple on entry which brightens in the mouth. Bit of spice and engaging. A bit of tang with a fennel and warm fruit finish. (No price)
1999 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Blackberry, Chocolate/Cherry on the nose. Balanced but a tad tart, not unpleasantly so. Massive plummy entry. $60
2000 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Rich red plum, cherry, and dried fruit. Then some dried floral aromas. Viscous an rich with more dried fruit concentration in the mid-palate. Long, long, nice. $55
2001 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Candy shop opulence. Plum and berry nose which don’t quit. Layered spices tantalize the mouth. $55
2002 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Bit of bell pepper give way to complex Oriental spice aromas. Already even and balanced in the mouth with a long, plummy finish. (Not priced yet)
2003 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Over the top fruit of berry, plum, and cocoa. Mouth entry of chocolate-covered cherries and more spice. Very bright with a long finish. Already very accessible. (Not priced yet).
Long Meadow Ranch ~ P.O. Box 477 ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-4555