Ultimate California Wine Blog

Long Meadow Ranch could very well be one of the most impressive establishments I have visited. As an appointment-only winery, the long, single-lane, twisty road up the hillside of the Mayacamas Mountains, brings one to an unassuming white gate with a non-ornate, handmade sign indicating you have arrived. That incline up to elevation 1,100 keeps them from the Rutherford appellation (which ends at elevation 600 or so).

Continuing up the road, the building which awaits you is almost cathedral-like in its architecture. Stark and elegant, with geometric angles rising up to greet the sky, it is not ostentatious or garish. It is not painted a bright color or decorated with unnecessary ornamentation. Dare I say, it is a Howard Roark-like structure. It seems that when Ted and Laddie Hall started the winery, they dug the caves first (a pretty smart move, considering the number of wineries whose caves are built after the fact). With all the dirt excavated from that cave construction, an ingenious architect decided to construct the building with rammed earth. Rammed earth buildings is a process of sustainable architecture which is earth-friendly reducing the drain on dependence of non-renewable energy sources.

Besides the stunning building as a fabulous winery, the Halls’ 650+ acres are used to raise 250 head of Highland cattle, an organic vegetable garden, and olive tress. As I mentioned back in the B.R. Cohn post, a number of wineries also produce olive oil. What I didn’t realize is that while Long Meadow Ranch is one of those who grows olives for oil, they may be one of the very few to have an authentic frantoio — the stone grinders used to crush the olives for oil.

I was extremely fortunate to taste a vertical of their entire production as well as some as-yet-unreleased wines. Nothing but Cabernet Sauvignon is produced and it was halfway through the tasting that I realized why I was so impressed with the wine: Not only is it produced from mountain vineyards, but every single wine tasted is below 14% alcohol. This is almost unheard of and when I queried about how this was accomplished, Ted explained that because of the vineyards’ placement, it sees 45 minutes more southerly sun than most other wineries. It is all part of the computations of hang-time and brix levels and it made for amazingly accessible wines which were a joy to taste:

1994 – Perfectly aged. 100% Cabernet. Aromas of sweet oak and subtle cedar with a hint of eucalyptus and blueberry. Slightly bricky color. Smooth and even and robust. Long, elegant finish. (No price)

1995 – 100% Cabernet. Dark garnet color. Opulent dark fruit with a whisper of oak and then mint. Blackberry entry on mouth with ultra soft tannins. Long silky tones  with a cocoa finish. $75

1996 – 100% Cabernet. HUGE, rich and complex with dates and dark fruit. More cocoa and clove on a second whiff. Balanced with long spicy notes throughout. $85

1997 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Purple color. Such supple and elegant aromas of nutmeg and spicey clove with a hint of cinnamon. Wild raspberry still heightens the tannins with an even, layered eucalyptus finish. $85

1998 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Very bright fruit of raspberry with citrus peel after it. Very dark and supple on entry which brightens in the mouth. Bit of spice and engaging. A bit of tang with a fennel and warm fruit finish. (No price)

1999 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Blackberry, Chocolate/Cherry on the nose. Balanced but a tad tart, not unpleasantly so. Massive plummy entry. $60

2000 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Rich red plum, cherry, and dried fruit. Then some dried floral aromas. Viscous an rich with more dried fruit concentration in the mid-palate. Long, long, nice. $55

2001 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Candy shop opulence. Plum and berry nose which don’t quit. Layered spices tantalize the mouth. $55

2002 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Bit of bell pepper give way to complex Oriental spice aromas. Already even and balanced in the mouth with a long, plummy finish. (Not priced yet)

2003 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Over the top fruit of berry, plum, and cocoa. Mouth entry of chocolate-covered cherries and more spice. Very bright with a long finish. Already very accessible. (Not priced yet).

Long Meadow Ranch ~ P.O. Box 477 ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-4555

Merryvale is one of the biggies on Highway 29. The large stone building is covered with vine and sits just across the street from restaurant Tra Vigne, burger stand Taylor’s Refresher, and is the last winery before you drive over the bridge into the hamlet of St. Helena. The building has been there a long time, laying claim to the fame of being the first winery built after the the repeal of Prohibition.

It is famous also for its oft-photographed dinner parties in their barrel room. The photograph in question has been used in more Napa PR documents that I can count. Not that that is a bad thing, but I’ve never been invited to one and am anxiously waiting! Before I moved to Napa, Merryvale was one of the wineries I was brought to as a tourist. Convenient, attractive, and tourist-friendly, it is a great stop on the main drag as they have an offering 23 different wines.

They also have the distinction of being one of the few wine-tasting establishments open late; 6:30 p.m. (where most have to close up at 4:00 or 5:00 p.m.) There is something to be said for tasting late in the day. The tasting room is quite large and the pouring staff extremely gregarious and friendly. The tasting menus are various and if you just indicate a style or a varietal that you are interested in, it will be poured for you.

– Standard grassy and tropical fruit aromas don’t prepare for the rich, creamy entry in the mouth. Pineapple and citrus dominates and I was pleasantly pleased with the balance and ripe flavors. $22

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros – Earth and raspberry tones in the bouquet which was very effusive and rich. Almond and toasty nuts flavors in the dark berry fruit provided a very long finish. $35

2000  Reserve Merlot, Napa Valley – 92% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Slightly orange, bricky colors on the edge. Aromas of very fresh green bell pepper. Dark fruit flavors underneath very tight tannins. $29

2000 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot. Initial nose of bramble berry gave way to oak and black pepper. Hot and tight on entry belied its age. Lots of swirling forced open a little more dark fruit which produced an incredibly long finish. $32

2001 Syrah, Napa Valley – I had more fun smelling this wine! First I got Hoisin sauce. Then some beefy-like salami. Then brighter fruit behind a little fennel. The entry was tannic and hotter than I would have liked. It stayed hot but finished long which made me believe it would cellar very nicely. $35

1999 Profile, Napa Valley – 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Hot jalapeno aromas slowly moved aside to show some cedar and oak, but it was mostly a vegetal nose. Tight entry with acidic finish. Would give it another ten years at least. $90

2000 Profile, Napa Valley – 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. OAK overwhelmed the nose. All wood, no fruit. Hot and tight. Hot, hot, hot. $70

2001 Profile, Napa Valley – 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Still wood on the nose, but more dark fruit behind it. Less tight than the previous two, but would still like to taste it in ten years or so. $90

Merryvale ~ 1000 Main Street ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-7777

Pine Ridge Winery is one of those about whom I knew nothing before this blog. I knew of their reputation, but I had never tasted their wines. I placed them in the Stag’s Leap District appellation because that is where there building is located. However, they utilize fruit from five different appellations for their extensive wine list. I was most intrigued with a Howell Mountain Cabernet that they make, but was told that it generally goes to wine club members exclusively and is never tasted in the retail outlet.

The building is expansive and the classic adobe style of California architecture that I grew up with. The tasting room is spare and elegant. A large floral display the only formal decoration. It is not cluttered with mundane tourist items found almost everywhere else. It was rather refreshing in its sparcity. The gentleman who poured for me was elderly and had been with the company for 17 years. No nonense and no hard sell. Just informative on their quality product.

2003 Dijon Clones Chardonnay – 100% ML and one-half of the wine sees new oak. Significant butter bouquet gives way to secondary tropical fruit tones in the nose. Brighter and more clean on the palate than I anticipated considering the heavier butter aromas. Flavors of peach and more tropical fruit dominate. $27.00

2001 Crimson Creek Merlot – 60% of the fruit for this wine comes from Carneros and the other 40% comes from Rutherford. It is actually 76% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Malbec. A slight engagement of green bell pepper hits the nose but gives way to brown sugar and nutmeg. Dark berries dominate the palate and the slightly acidic finish indicates the wine should be cellared for another five to eight years. $27.00

2001 Charmstone – A "proprietary" bland of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. Clear garnet color and substantial bell pepper aromas couple with a hint of brambleberry. Hot cinnamon mid-palate somewhat overwhelmed me. $30.00

2001 Cabernet Franc – Bright ruby color produced an earthy, barnyard bell pepper tone. Significant roasted flavors predominate with a surprisingly thin finish. $35.00

2001 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon – 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Tannat. Again, classic bell pepper aromas up front, gives way to some black olive and black pepper. Tasting produced a brighter, smoother mouth feel than the nose predicted. Long finish of black fruit. $39.00

2000 Andrus Reserve – Another "proprietary" blend of the Bordeaux varietals all planted in the Rutherford appellation. Dark, rustic flavors of roasted coffee and oak fill the bouquet and anticipate flavors of mocha in the mouth. A slight vanilla finish which was long and predicted a wine which would age well. $95.00

Pine Ridge Winery ~ 5901 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-252-9777

Baldacci Vineyards is another winery along the Silverado Trail that is small and easy to miss – but definetely worth looking for. Their sign is small and attached to their gate. Their tasting room unassuming, a mere shack compared to the palatial palaces and villas that speckle the landscape. They are a relatively new winery as Tom Baldacci (a home builder by trade) started off purchasing old, heritage vineyards to sell grapes to other wine producers. Later, he decided he wanted to make the wine himself.

Not being satisfied with the old vines, he set about replanting to increase productivity in the soil. He got local wunderkind Rolando Herrera as his winemaker (Rolando has his own Mi Sueno label which is pretty fabulous!). The wine? A single offering of a limited production estate-grown Cabernet. But what a wine…

2000 was their first vintage and I was fortunate to taste both the first and second vintage of their estate wine (they also produce a limited production Cabernet, named after Tom’s wine, Brenda, which was not available to taste).

2000 Baldacci Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – With one acre of Cabernet Franc vineyards, there is a 9% CabFranc blended into this wine. Tremendous brambleberry aromas come from a wine that is downright inky in color. Elegant cocoa and eucalyptus flavors come through and a long, velvety finish continues.

2001 Baldacci Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – This wine has 6 1/2% Cabernet Franc and for a change, instead of the classic Stag’s Leap manure smell that I tend to tire of from this appellation, this wine effuses dark, rustic fruit and oak with a hint of tobacco. Flavors of dark cherry and blackberry produce mid-palate and the finish is vanilla and wonderfully extensive.

Baldacci Family Vineyards ~ 6236 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-944-9261

Before I moved to the Napa Valley, I would drive up on three- and four-day weekends from Los Angeles.  Robert Sinskey Vineyards was one of my favorite wineries during every visit. This is the bain of the neophyte visitor — you find a great place and it is hard to move on to discover other great places, but always happy and satisfied knowing an old friend is there for you. I was initially drawn to Sinskey because of a friend’s invitation, but have gone back many times because of their Pinots.

One of the many charms that Sinskey offers is more than good wine. I have always received exceptional, personal service from the pouring staff. Upon arrival, guests are greeted with architecture that is both modern and austere, yet constructed of wood that is warm and inviting.  For its categorization, I have placed it in both the Napa Carneros appellation, where the bulk of their vineyards are located (200+ acres) as well as the Stag’s Leap District appellation, where their winery physically stands but is also the home of their Cabernet vineyards (4 acres of Cabernet and 1/2 acre of Merlot).

The entry into the tasting room presents exaulted, open ceilings and a semi-round tasting bar which instead of offering sharp, angular, psychologically sharp corners, softens the room making it immediately comfortable and inviting. There are many of the standard retail items strewn about, but not blatantly so and more set back. Directly behind the tasting bar are large, glass windows behind which displays part of the wine making area with stainless steel vats. At the end of a normally retail-oriented space, is a small presentation kitchen with wood-fired stone oven. This is all related to Maria Helms-Sinskey’s belief that wine tastes better with food and has subsequently also written the well known The Vineyard Kitchen.

When tasting their wine, they continue with the philosophy that wine pairs better with food. Inasmuch, small ramekins of rosemary-scented Marconi almonds and Nicoise olives are set out with olive oil crackers to taste with the wine. And one last point before the wine notes; I was a tad surprised that much of the Pinot I tasted for this blog is the same vintage that I tasted three years ago; 2000. However, I have been assured that a number of new vintages will be released at the beginning of March; a 2002 Los Carneros Pinot and the 2001 Four Vineyards. More exciting, however, is the news that later in the year will be the presentation of some vineyard-specific Pinots which I will anxiously await: The Vandal Vineyard, The Three Amigos, and The Capa Vineyard Pinots.

2003 Pinot Blanc, Los Carneros – 100% stainless steel produces a surprisingly warm nose of aromatic jasmine and citrus blossom. Thick, engaging mid-palate which produces melon flavors. The tanginess that is normally perceived in Sauvignon Blanc appears in this wine as part of the finish. $18.00

2002 Chardonnay, Three Amigos Vineyard – Los Carneros of Napa Valley – Eight to ten months of French oak don’t overpower this Chard, probably because there was no malo fermentation used. Initial bouquet of apple and vanilla anticipates the deeper flavors of pear and toasted nut. Very long, silky finish. $30.00

2004 Vin Gris – Pinot Noir Rose – Beautiful peach color with wild strawberry aromas. Extremely bright and engaging. Warm nose with a soft entry that builds and effuses. Keeps going and going. Must try with BBQ! $16.00

2000 Four Vineyards Pinot Noir – Los Carneros of Napa Valley – Very bright red raspberry nose just barely hides a secondary aroma of vegetal pepper. First tastes produce strawberry and minerally tones which give way to a slightly acidic finish that diminishes quickly. Having tasted this vintage upon its release several years ago, I believe the wine is waning. $46.00

2001 Merlot – Los Carneros of Napa Valley – A blend of 76% Merlot with 24% Cabernet, but this Cabernet was not from Stag’s Leap, but Carneros. Green bell pepper bouquet which made me think it might have been from Stag’s Leap District, but I think the bell pepper aromas were the Cabernet. Harsh, astringent entry with a hint of mint in the mid-palate. Tannic finish. $26.00

1999 Vineyard Reserve, Napa Valley – 52% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Another earthy entry, quite probably from Stag’s Leap District Cabernet. Bouquet of mint and spice. Extracted pine in the mouth with a cocoa finish. $36.00

Robert Sinskey Vineyards ~ 6320 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-944-9090