Ultimate California Wine Blog

There are a number of wineries in the heart of the Napa Valley which are are neither on Highway 29 nor on the Silverado Trail. These are hidden off side roads which connect the main two arteries. Plumpjack is just off the Trail and with their, artistic vaulted sign, a winery that must be searched for. The entrance is up a long, thin road and the facilities are beautifully ensconced among olive trees. Here in the Northern California, the Plumpjack name holds quite a reputation. Besides the winery itself, they also have a chain of restaurants and have interest in a number of local inns.

The tasting room itself also has an artistic flair. Upon walking towards the building, I admired the color scheme of the building itself as well as the circular frame around a tree bench. The colors are contemporary and inviting and the landscaping provides a very warm reception. It was only a small anticipation of what was to await me inside.

The interior of the tasting room is warm, sage with fabulously modern touches in its decorations. The sage color continues throughout and makes for a rather dark room, but fun in nature. The contemporary artistic motifs which bedeck the tasting bar, wall, and ceiling are fun and whimsical. Sadly for me, the day I visited they were sold out of their Syrah and Cuvee, only leaving two wines to taste — and one which was a tad too young:

2002 Plumpjack Reserve Chardonnay, St. Helena – No malo, but surprisingly rich. Tropical fruit aromas of pineapple and mango with a whisper of orange peel. Complex, layered mouth feel which finishes in vanilla and a touch of coconut. $42.00

2002 Plumpjack Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville – Tremendous plummy bouquet diminishes to green pepper. Tight tannins somewhat hid the black cherry in the mid-palate. The sharp, acidic finish confirmed that  the wine had just been released and the bottle just opened. Would benefit from aging and decanting. $62.00

Plumpjack Winery ~ 620 Oakville Cross Road ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-945-1220

First off, a note about the appellation… Carneros is an oddity among appellations as it has vineyards and wineries in both Napa county and Sonoma county – it is the only appellation to break county lines. Consequently, there is Carneros Napa and there is Carneros Sonoma. I suppose if I weren’t trying to categorize my entries by County AND Appellation, I wouldn’t have this problem, but I do. On that note, a not-to-be missed winery in EITHER county is Domaine Carneros by Taittinger.

Domaine Carneros is the brainchild of the Taittinger family in France as their efforts to bring their sparkling wine skills to California. The building "was inspired by the historic and lovely Louis XV style Chateau de la Marquetterie in Champagne, France. The site of the Marquette was originally an abbey press house. In the 17th Century Frere Oudart, the abbey’s cellarmaster made significant contributions to refining the Champagne making process. Today the Chateau de la Marquetterie in France is the country home and estate of the Taittinger family."

We have this amazing replica of a French chateau but is it all hype? Not in my opinion. While not as exceptional as "real" French champagne, I think there is a great deal of brouhaha about folks not liking California sparkling wine because they compare it to the great houses in Europe, in many ways, there is much to be said for the sparkling wines produced in California. Besides, what I really like about Domaine Carneros is not their sparkling as much as the fact that they produce Pinot…

When you enter the grand building, you are greeted by a multitude of friendly servers and something of an anomoly in wine country tasting rooms: Sit Down Service. No bar to belly-up to here, just a scattering of tables with servers who pour, serve, and inform. When the weather is fair, that service extends to the terrace. Nothing can be nicer than sipping some bubbly while lounging over the span of vineyards in your view. Along with their alcoholic offerings, there is a menu placed before you with cheese trays and caviar. The cheese trays are wine-specific with both an offering for their sparkling service and Pinot service.

For my last visit, we opted for both the sparkling tasting and the Pinot tasting. The sparkling wine is served in appropriately-fluted glasses, but they are charmingly miniature in size, serving a perfect two-ounce pour in what looks like a full glass. There are also laminated cards where they place the glasses so you don’t mix up which wine is which. There are always some almonds along with the service as well. The servers work very hard to make sure there is not a long wait as many pull double duty, checking in on tables that have already been served.  And the wines are pretty darned good too:

SPARKLING
2001 Domaine Carneros Brut Vintage – 65% Piont Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 3% Pinot Blanc. This wine comprises half of the winery’s entire production, about 3,000 cases worth. Bright and unassuming, thre are notes of citrus, melon, and a hint of toasted nut on the nose. Aged on the yeast for three years, it has even yeast structure and doesn’t overwhelm. $24.00

NV Domaine Carneros Brut Rose – 38% Chardonnay, 62% Pinot Noir, and 5% still Pinot (where the color comes from!). Creamy strawberry bouquet with a hint of peach. This is a winery-only wine which is elegant but I wish a bit more affordable. $34.00

1998 La Reve Blanc de Blanc – La Reve means "the dream" which is a reference to the entire establishment and what the Taittinger family had to go through to get the winery here in Napa. This sparkling is 100% Chardonnay is aged six years and is made in very small quantities. To me, it smells a bit too yeasty upon first whiff which belies its very long, creamy finish. $55.00

STILL
2003 Avant-Garde Pinot Noir – Clear, garnet color. Earthy aromas give way to a full, jammy nose. It is the lightest and fruitiest of the three tasted. Bright raspberries present in the mouth with a finish of orange peel. $27.99

2002 Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir – Same garnet color, but a tad darker than the Avant Garde. This Pinot is made in 100% French oak. Huge cherry and vanilla bouquet. There is a peppery, cayenne-like spice which enters with first taste that is strong and acidic but gives way to a more elegant, layered cinnamon and clove spice. $27.00

2001 Famous Gate Pinot Noir – This is a winery-only Pinot and presents a tremendous bright raspberry bouquet with hints of orange underneath. A bit oaky, but not overly so. The initial mouthfeel is fruity with plum and brambleberry, but finishes with tobacco. $50.00

Domaine Carneros ~ 1240 Duhig Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-257-3020

Quietly nestled on Highway 29, amongst the stalwarts of tourist haven wineries, lies Ballentine Vineyards, an unassuming gem. For those unfamiliar with Napa, Highway 29 is "the main drag" which houses those wineries which get the bulk of the business from first-time visitors. They attract newbies with ornate, inviting buildings, perfectly manicured landscaping, perhaps an occasional sculpture or fountain. Ballentine cannot boast any of these things, but it can boast an impressive family heritage with longevity in the valley, refreshingly warm and inviting owners, and most importantly, quality wines which are remarkably affordable.

Ballentine could very easily be missed, so keep an eye out. Their tasting room, adjacent to the wine-making facilities hidden by tall brush and trees, is nothing more than a small room, barely able to hold eight or ten people. Hardly ostentatious, to their credit, there is a modicum of decoration and nary a tschotschke in sight. Just a few pieces of artwork on the wall which hearken back to the history — and an amazing history it is. Briefly, back in 1884, Betty Ballentine’s grandfather, Libero Pocai, came to California from Italy and by 1907, had planted vineyards and established the 115th winery bond in the state named L. Pocai and Sons (in 2005, bonded wineries number well over 5,600).

Libero had two sons and it was son Frank who produced two daughters, Betty and Marie. Betty Pocai grew up going to Calistoga High School and working for Charles Krug Winery. As a child of a winery owner, during a piano recital she met another Winery Kid, Van Ballentine. Van’s father, John, immigrated from Ireland in 1910 to San Francisco, but during Prohibition, was able to acquire some choice property in the Napa Valley. That property contained a winery which had been built in 1891, the original Sutter Home estate. Although it had fallen to disuse because of Prohibition, John was patient and it seemed a good place to raise a family. He named the estate after his old home in Ireland, Deer Park. After Prohibition was repealed, John was one of the very first to apply for a winery bond which, at that point, was up to #3595. To this day, all the grapes are estate grown.

Betty and Van have been married over fifty years now and Van has worked more than sixty vintages. Winemaker Bruce Devlin is building a fabulous program of interesting and enticing wines and is passionate about discussing the wines he’s making as well as proud of the recent accolades Ballentine wines has been receiving. Much of what impressed me about Ballentine, besides Betty and Van themselves, was the remarkable quality of the wine considering its price range. The first comment I made upon exiting the tasting room to my friend was, "they should raise their prices." Across the board, consistently great wine at astonishingly affordable prices:

2004 Chenin Blanc, Pocai Vineyards – From older vines. Green grass and green apple aromas.  Pear and citrus blossoms in the mouth and a silky, vanilla finish which was perfectly crisp and acidic. A tad minerally, but not cloyingly so. $14.00

2001 Merlot – 90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Huge raspbery and red currant bouquet. Supple upon entry, a tentative mid-palate of black cherry culminated in a long, luxurious toasty caramel. $22.00

2002 Cabernet Franc – 100% Cabernet Franc. 25% new oak and only 326 cases made. Extremely soft, velvety black cherry mouth which surprised me. Nice caramel feel and a peppery finish. $24.00

2000 Zinfandel –  92.7% Zinfandel, 5.7% Petit Syrah, and 1.6% Syrah. 25% new oak. concentrated flavors of black cherry and raspberry. Quite fruity, warm, and engaging. High acids do not diminish the spicy, long, clingy finish. $18.00

2000 Zinfandel, Block 9 – 45% new oak. HUGE oak nose which was refreshingly clean and bright, not thick. It gave way to some slightly medicinal aromas. Classic bramble berry and rich cherry compote flavors with secondary caramel tones and a luscious vanilla finish. $27.00

2003 Zinfandel, Block 11 – No new oak on this one. First time this wine was produced. Dark, amethyst purple color and intense plum jam bouquet with a follow-up of subtle vanilla notes. Specific cardamom and toasted pecans on the finish. A second swirl after tasting produced more floral aromas and a tad of white pepper. $25.00

2002 Napa Valley Syrah, Betty’s Vineyard – Crisp, mint nose and chocolate explodes immediately upon entering the mouth, giving way to a fresher, jammier undertone of roasted fruit. Brighter and more supple finish that I anticipated. $22.00

2000 Napa Valley Syrah – 40-year old head-trained vineyards produced a surprising aroma of baby powder. Old world, earthy flavors dominated this elegant offering that finished is vanilla and spice. $25.00

2002 Petite Syrah, Nichelini Vineyard – Only 200 cases produced. Layered bouquet of anise, fresh figs, and white pepper while true character of dried cherry and ripe blueberry complemented the toasty mid-palate. A bit chewy, but in a pleasant, exciting way. $24.00

Ballentine Vineyards ~ 2820 St. Helena Highway North ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-7919

Along the Highway 12 corridor lies an amazing building. It is the home of Ledson winery and the building is an Addams Family-like black brick, Gothic castle. There is nothing like it in either Sonoma or Napa — or elsewhere that I can recall. Although it is easy to ascribe the Addams Family as potential inhabitants, it is truly an artistic marvel with a slate stile roof, turrets, spires, and arched entrance ways which contrast with the white window frames, offering a clean sense of stylistic design.

Arriving through the gates, a slow, meandering drive amongst the vines towards fountains and beautifully manicured laws, puts the visitor at awe with his or her surroundings. Much of what Gothic architecture is meant to do is inspire. Based out of 10th Century France, it was an aesthetic movement coming from an era where paganism had just been extinguished and the Catholic Church was establishing itself as the sole spiritual power in the land.

The outline of the architectural movement is derived from the Carolingian developments of Byzantine modifications of the early Christian basilica. In short, it included double western towers, a central tower over the crossing, and a threefold interior system of arcade, triforium, and clerestory. The architecture was mostly seen in churches of the era and was meant to instill fear and adoration in a higher being, namely God.

Why am I writing a short dissertation on Gothic architecture, might you ask? Well, when you arrive at Ledson, whether or not you understand the cultural significance and import, the bottom line is that the imposing structure automatically instills a level of adoration that has yet to be earned, be it a church or a winery. Upon entering the hallowed hallways of Ledson, one is immediately presented with tremendous vaulted ceilings, sweeping stairways, and an imposing chandelier. It is all stunningly beautiful.

Roaming around the establishment, I learned that there are no less than NINE different tasting bars. I was there on a rainy February afternoon and the place was swamped with customers with only four of the nine bars actually serving that day. Being able to finally muscle close enough to a bar for a taste, I was a tad discouraged when I inquired about tasting their Pinot. "Oh, that’s the worst wine we make!" I was told. Not being encouraged, I simply asked him to pour me the wines that were recommended. And while I know I tasted six or seven, I stopped taking notes after the third wine…

2001 Alexander Valley Sangiovese – Aromas of ethyl alcohol. Hot. Burned going down.

2001 Old Vine Zinfandel – Bouquet of petrol. A hint of fruit and spice. No finish.

2002 Bellisimo- A blend of Merlot and Cabernet. Concetrated black fruit nose which belied the gasoline taste.

To get out of Ledson, one must manage the maze of retail. It is rather clever that you can’t go out the way you came in, you have to exit a side entrance through a tremendously-stocked marketplace. It is truly an amazing store that includes cold cuts and cheeses, an espresso bar, a dessert fridge filled with handmade goodies, gifts, and of course, their wine…

Ledson ~ 7335 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12) ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95409 ~ 707-537-3810

Kunde Estate Winery and Vineyards is located along that stretch of roadway between downtown Sonoma and Santa Rosa, in the community of Kenwood. I realize now that I had a huge misconception about Kunde. I don’t know where I got it, but I have to admit I thought them more along the lines of your standard supermarket wine. I was pleasantly surprised. Also, from here on out, I will try and provide bottle prices on the wines I taste. Who knows, maybe I’ll go back and put them into the older tastings as well…

I didn’t know that Kunde have been land stewards going back five generations to 1904. Part of this legacy means that they take care of the land, protecting and nuturing it to assure its continued well-being and positive development. While not being certified organic, they do avoid the use of synthetic pesticides and utilize practices that promote the development of a healthy ecosystem.

The tasting room is expansive and comfortable. Huge, vaulted ceilings and a large, free-standing tasting bar helps the visitor to keep from having that claustrophobic, boxed-in feel which can happen with smaller establishments. The retail bits are there, but are not intrusive and tastefully displayed. The pouring staff are helpful and informed (well, almost too informed, but I think that was just one guy trying to show off some arcane insider knowledge).  And the wine was quite decent!

2003 Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc – I loved that this wine was made with no oak, but purely stainless steel. Citrus aromas and a touch of mint with a very nicely balanced, full pineapple filling the taste. $16.00

2002 Reserve Chardonnay – Well, at a 100% malo, this is not a chardonnay that is typically a style I appreciate. However, I was pleasantly surprised at the extremely elegant sensation of honey in the nose and on the tongue. A tad of toasted oak on the finish which was very long and silky. $35.00

2003 Viognier – Tremendous green apple and and honeysuckle bouquet. Exotic floral notes and jasmine filled the mouth and a bite of pepper provided an exciting ending. I would have bought this one, had I remember my wallet! $23.00

2002 Gewurztraminer – At 2002, I think this wine may be a bit beyond its peak. The guy pouring for us was trying to find the winemaker’s notes as I was very curious as to the residual sugar level. He seemed to think it was less than 1%, but I think it was closer to 2% or 3%. I did get some elegant floral notes but there was a metallic finish which may have also been due to the wine being a bit too cold. $13.00

2001 Sangiovese – Strong candy store smell, which I like in a San! Very full-bodied and even tannins produced a peppery, spicy finish. $24.00

2001 Barbera – Another wine with that candy store smell. I wonder if I should explain that — it is an aroma which used to be prevalent in penny candy stores of the 1960s and early 1970s. Incomparable, exotic aroma for a kid. Still there in the olfactory memory. This wine and the previous San had it. Well, tasting this Barbera gave some dried fruit and floral notes and a huge, spicy finish of clove and summac. $24.00

2000 Founder’s Selection Claret – 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. Obvious Franc bouquet of vegetation and herbs. The palate provides a bit of berry fruit but more mint and the finish is all green bell pepper. $25.00

2001 Century Vines Zinfandel – Made form 122 year-old Zinfandel vines. Spicy nose and massive roasted plum entry. Wanes a bit to a tinny finish. $28.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Drummond Vineyard – Surprisingly bricky color, due to its age. Berry bouquets and a decent structure despite some acidic tannins. The color of the wine would suggest it is older than it is and I think it would probably age quite well. Some elegance there. $70.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon – 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Merlot. Pronounced bell pepper nose and what I think was bright, enticing fruit which had been dulled by oxydation due to being opened the day before. $21.00

Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards ~ 10155 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5501

Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards ~ 10155 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5501