Ultimate California Wine Blog

Reynolds Famly Winery is one of the first wineries on the Silverado Trail. I had to categorize it within the generic "Napa appellation" as it lies within a corridor of what local winery owners hope will eventually be known as the "Silverado Bench" appellation. Behind the stone walls lie the tasting room, wine-making facilities, and also the family home of the Reynolds themselves. Except for the clearly marked signs towards the tasting room at the back of the estate, one would be hard pressed to realize you were entering a retail establishment. Back before 2002, when most of the current buildings were constructed, the estate was a chicken farm.

The tasting room is nestled near the back of the estate, immediately to the right of part of the storage area for barrels. The winery’s reservoir is also just off this back building and is very nicely integrated in that there is a working fountain in the center. Most wineries have reservoirs somewhere on the estate, but here at Reynolds, the sound and design incorporates the need for water while adding beauty and serenity. The tasting room itself is cozy and homey-like with a fireplace centered in the middle and a beautiful selection of turn-of-the-century antiques set up as scattered sitting area.

There are actually two labels presented within the tasting room, the RFW label and Gneiss Winery. The Gneiss label is considered a sister winery to the Reynolds Family. On my visit, I tasted a bit of both:

2002 RFW Carneros Pinot – 12 months barrell aged, 250 cases produced. I
was recently referred to a Pinophiliac. I just love the grape and
varying differences, but Carneros Pinots reign supreme. This is from
the Corotto vineyard and is incredibly full bodied. I did detect a
slight hint of green bell pepper aromas but an underlying aroma of
cinnamon prevailed. There was a sensation of an old candy store that I
couldn’t shake (but in a good way). The fruit was concentrated and
complex with a full plum-with-skin feel. Rather thin finish.

2001 Gneiss Winery Cabernet Sauvignon – 90% French Oak and 10% American Oak, 1400 cases produced. Rich, deep purple tones. Anise, vanilla, and oak aromas with a mouth full of green asparagus. Finishes with tannic plum.

2001 RFW Estate Select Cabernet – 18 months barrel aged in 50% new oak, 1300 cases produced. Very rich, full fruity nose fades to herbal qualities. The initial taste is that of sharp tannins which give way to cassis and cocoa. Nicely complex mid-palate and a lingering finish of coffee.

2001 RFW Persistence – This is comprised of six clones of Sauvignon Blanc, three clones of Merlot, two clones of Syrah, and one of Petit Verdot. It is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 16% Merlot, 5% Syrah, and 2% Petit Verdot.  750 cases produced. The immediate aroma of this wine was that of a perfume and a bit of green earth. It tasted very young and a bit bright, but excessive swirling produced complex herbal notes and a more darkened bell pepper finish.

2002 Thirteen – 650 cases produced. Meritage blend, mostly of Cabernet Sauvignon, from all thirteen of Napa sub-appellations. It is a beautifully-designed package, a great bottle shape, and a pretty fabulous wine. Apparently you have to be put on a list to be able to buy this wine. A very dark, purple wine with scents of oak and elegant cinnamon. The nose kept going and I would have been most happy just sitting, swirling, and smelling this wine for hours. Huge, complex spice from what I guess is the Syrah. A bit chewy mid-palate but a long, supple finish.

Reynolds Family Winery ~ 3266 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-258-2558

San Saba is another in those line of Monterey wineries who have a small tasting room on the Carmel Valley corridor, but who grow and produce elsewhere. Actually, their tasting room is in a strip mall that is slightly difficult to get into only because you can see it from the road, but is slightly blocked by a large tree. The tasting room is pretty innocuous in that it IS in a strip mall and entering through large, glass doors into a wide open area is a tad unusual. On the adjacent wall, was a stunning huge antique Indian rug which I recall commenting on and am sorry I didn’t photograph.

The gentleman pouring for me the day I was there was extremely pleasant and helpful. Not all pouring folks like have their picture taken but an unassuming, laid-back demeanor was prevalent in almost all my Monterey tastings. I didn’t inquire a great deal into the winery, its winemaker, or production level. I just tasted their wine…

2001 Bocage Unoaked Chardonnay – I was actually pretty excited to taste this as I tend to not be a huge fan of over-oaked, heavily malo’d Chardonnay. This wine had an engaging golden color. I was surprised at the complex, round aromas of apple. It was crisp and a bit sharp immediately upon entering the mouth, much like a Sauvignon Blanc.

2003 Bocage Unoaked Chardonnay – Again, a Chardonnay that saw no oak or malo — however this one showed considerable medicinal aromas but produced a richness in the mouth which surprised me again.

2001 San Saba Chardonnay – Now this wine was aged seven months in 100% French oak and definitely had some malo applied to it. Rich vanilla appeared on the nose and I was gratified that little butter was tasted beyond the fruit.

2003 San Saba Chardonnay – A bit paler than the 2001 in color. Less structure and considerably harsher fruit in the mouth. Would definitely smooth out after time.

2000 Bocage Merlot – One-half of this wine saw French oak while the other half saw stainless steel. I had a hard time detecting anything other than green bell pepper on the nose or in the mouth.

2002 Bocage Merlot – As opposed to the 2000, this one was fully oaked and had 15% Syrah added to it. While it showed good, beautiful color, the mouth was incredibly harsh and had little finish.

1999 San Saba Merlot – With 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, again all I could perceive was bell pepper, bell pepper, bell pepper…

San Saba ~ 19 East Carmel Valley Road ~ Carmel Valley ~ CA ~ 831-659-7322

Bernardus is big business in the Monterey area. Not only a high-falutin winery, but full on Lodge that has a restaurant I’d be interested in eating in! I didn’t know about the lodge until I was in the tasting room and the lodge’s menu was posted near the cash register. Owner Ben Pon owns vineyards in the Cachagua region of Carmel Valley and has a goal to make red wines that equal those found in Bordeaux. The tasting room is pretty standard as far as design and functionality is concerned, yet the chatter and warmth of the employees makes for a lively and enjoyable visit.

There are two levels of tastings offered; the Bernardus Tasting at $5.00 for four tastings, or the Mr. Pon Reserve Tasting, all the previous four plus an additional four which includes a Bernardus wine charm. I declined the charm, but managed to taste everything the winery had to offer…

2002 Marsanne – Only 200 cases made of this otherwise rare grape. Clear, crisp, and bright and for $16.00 purchased immediately as look forward to enjoying it alongside some grilled tilapia this summer.

2002 Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc – Blended from four different vineyards on the Sonoma coast, this wine was a blend of 94% Sauvignon Blanc and 6% Semillion. Versus those SBs which can be overwhelmingly acidic, I found the mouthfeel of this wine to be round and full with balanced aromas. A hint of grassiness on the nose.

2002 Griva Sauvignon Blanc – 100% Stainless fermented. Appropriate cat piss on the nose and then green apple. Crisp and sharp in the mouth but with a creamy finish.

2002 Bernardus Chardonnay – Apparently got 92 Enthusiast points. Made from five different yeasts but (sadly for me), 90% ML. Lots of melon on the nose and very buttery and rich in the mouth.

2003 Saignee de Marinus Cabernet Rose – I think I was really lucky to get a taste of this as only 24 cases were made. Surprisingly round, rich nose on the pale rose color. Crisp and inviting.

2000 Bien Nacido Pinot Noir – Bien Nacido vineyards are located in Santa Barbara. Pale in color with heavy mineral aromas. In the mouth, one is greeted with full, heavy fruit which finishes with a peppery sensation. After a bit of swirling, instead of mineral on the nose, I perceived that candy store-like smell. It was close to wanting to be a Syrah, but faded too quickly.

2000 Bernardus Marinus – Their flagship wine, 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Very bright nose that is extremely fruit-forward. Secondary aroma of tobacco. Chewy tannins overpower the fruit but I think it would age extremely well.

1997 Bernardus Marinus – Slightly different makeup; 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. This wine was unfiltered and slightly cloudy. Amazing, complex combination on the nose of dark, elegant fruit and cinnamon spice. There was a hint of bell pepper, but only a hint. Tannins are well-balanced and the finish had nice, cherry tones.

Bernardus ~ 5 West Carmel Valley Road ~ Carmel Valley ~ CA ~ 800-223-2533

Continuing in the Monterey vein, Heller Estate Vineyards was along the Carmel Valley Road on which I traveled. This was one of those small, quaint roadside establishments which was undoubtedly someone’s house at some point in the not-too-distant past. Immediately adjacent to the household, is a lovely garden area which houses the winery’s sculptures. Apparently the sculpture garden is available for rent for events. I liked a number of the sculptures but only shot a picture of the one, below.

Upon entering, a very nice young man greeted us, asked if we had visited before, I let us know that Heller is the oldest vineyard in Carmel, having been planted by William Durney in 1968. The estate boasts 100% organic vineyards and many of the usual varietals; Chenin Blanc (which was sadly not opened the day of my visit), Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. However, they do something a bit more interesting in that they manipulate their Merlot into a Rosé as well as Port.

2003 Heller Merlot Rosé – Bright pinkish in color, a bit of strawberry on the nose, and sweeter than I would have anticipated. I should have asked what the residual sugar was…

2002 Heller Estate Chardonnay – I asked how much malo this wine had seen and when answered 90%, I opted to not taste it

2001 Heller Pinot Noir – Pretty, bright garnet color. Earthy, mushroomy aromas with a bit of oak at the end. Some dried fruit in the mouth but with not a long enough finish.

2001 Heller Estate Merlot – Dark, rich color with a Cabernet-like nose. Apparently this is dry farmed and I perceived inky-like blackberry on the back palate. It finished with very bright tannins.

2001 Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon – Cachagua is the region where the grapes are grown and are trellis-trained. This is actually 79% Cab and 21% Merlot and is a blend of the younger clones. Cacha means "hidden" and Agua means "water," literally, Hidden Waters. I perceived more fruity-like Merlot qualities in this wine than Cabernet and lacked the depth a blend like this should have.

2001 Heller Estate Cabernet – While the Cachagua is trellis-trained, this one is head-trained. There were lovely, dark purple tones to the color and sadly, the bottle was corked but no one else in the tasting room seemed to notice.

2002 Heller Merlot Port – 32 Brix. Hefy, chewy and extremely sweet.

Heller ~ 69 Carmel Valley Road ~ CA ~ 93924 ~ 800-625-8466

For a change, I have grouped two winery producers in one entry. But only because they share the same building and sign structure. Georis Winery and Talbott Vineyards are located in the Carmel Valley region of Monterey in a small township which has a handful of small, producing wineries. Of all my Monterey visits thus far, these two were some of the most exceptional. Talbott was first, but only by virtue of having their entrance on my right, when I face the building.

I give Talbott Vineyard a great deal of credit for sticking with only two varietals, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I am beginning  to find that wineries which attempt to produce a multitude of different wines often miss the mark on more than one or two. It is also charming that many of Talbott’s wines have been named after their children, Logan, Cynthia, and Kali-Hart.

Of their Chardonnays, I tasted the 2003 Kali-Hart Vineyard Chardonnay ($13.50) which had lovely aromas of tropical fruit like kiwi and pineapple. It was crisp on the tongue and had a medium finish. The 2002 Logan Chardonnay ($18.00) was a bit richer and fuller in the mouth and must have seen more malo fermentation.

Not being a huge Chardonnay fan (but I’m learning!), I really preferred Talbott’s Pinots. The 2001 Kali-Hart Pinot Noir ($13.50) seemed dark in notes and a tad smokey and spicy. The was discernible plum and berry on the finish. The  2001 Logan Pinot Noir ($18.00) was a nice earthy hint of strawberry and cherry and a rich mid-palate with darker fruits and smooth finish. This one was purchased.

Find the Georis tasting area was a bit complicated. Immediately next door to Talbott is Corkcrew Cafe. The sign to Georis points that it is somewhere around the other side of the cafe but all I could see was outdoor seating. I couldn’t tell if the tasting area was part of the outdoor area or not so I went back into the cafe where tastings are also offered. As Shawn was hungry, getting him fed and tasting at the same time seemed reasonable enough.

The inside of the cafe is really love with mottled, rich earth tones of warm sage and brushed dark orange. There are a number of display cases which house their collection of antique cork pulls. On the tables were cards which indicated the varying levels of wine tastings available; "Everyday Wine" for $15.00, "Grand Tasting" for $20.00, or a "Chilled Flight" for $12.00. These tastings include various wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. As none of their specific selections fit my desires, I asked if they would consider letting me just have a Merlot tasting (some of which were on both the Everyday and Grand list, but not all together). The waitress was more than amenable and with my four wines, I ordered a pâté appetizer as my lunch.

I have to say that it was one of the finest home-made pâtés I’ve had and when I complimented the waitress on the quality (also asking if was made in house), she indicated that it was made at their sister restaurant, Casanova. This makes perfect sense as Casanova is my hands-down favorite restaurant in Carmel and is always exceptional with one of the most extensive wine lists (especially half-bottles!) around. As you can see from the picture, the internal piece of the pâté is sold terrine de foie gras surrounded with a nicely-spiced country pate. My only recommendation for plate would be to replace the simple yellow mustard with a moutarde de violet, but that’s just me. Now for the four Merlot:

1998 Estate Georis Merlot – Cloudy. Hot on the nose and ample bell pepper aromas. Orange tints on the edge. Aromas of manure. Thin and flaccid. Little body and sharp tannins. The bell pepper tongue keeps going and going. One sip was enough. $20.00

2002 Le Sanglia Georis Merlot – Rich, ruby colors that pale a bit to the edge. Strong, spicy bramble on the nose. A tad chewy with decent structure, but shallows in mid-palate. Finishes much stronger than initially anticipated on first taste. $28.00

2002 Arroyo Seco Georis Merlot – After the last two, this was more elegant with dark, supple fruit on the nose. Rich and opulent immediately, it pales a bit on the finish. Paler in color than the Le Sanglia, but a stronger wine in the long run. $23.00

2000 Estate Georis Merlot – Incredibly dark purple with an intense grape aroma. Big chew factor with full tannins. Rounder nose and an elegant spice structure. Huge, tremendous mouthfeel. $45.00

Talbott ~ 53 Pilot Road ~ Carmel Valley ~ CA ~ 93924 ~ 831-659-3500

Georis (and Corkscrew Cafe) ~ 55 Pilot Road ~ Carmel Valley ~ CA ~ 93924 ~ 831-659-1050