Ultimate California Wine Blog

Across the board, what I began to discover during my Lodi excursion is that more than a few decently-produced wines are being made on par with those in Napa and Sonoma. However, the price points of these wines tend to be considerably lower. It is thus that I present my findings on Van Ruiten Vineyards.

One of the many great experiences I am discovering about Lodi which has
thus far been remarkably different from "the bigger valleys," is the
propensity of the winery owners to be extremely accessible. Of the six
wineries I visited in one day, I met the owners of half of them. There
is no pretension whatsoever as even in his most crowded tasting room,
John Van Ruiten wandered in just to say hello…

The history is an intriguing one; John Van Ruiten arrived in Lodi from
Denmark just over fifty years ago after World War II and planted
Zinfandel grapes but it took those fifty years before Van Ruiten was
able to build his winery which was constructed just before the 2000 harvest. In general, the architecture, decor, and presentation of Van Ruiten is such that if it were to be plucked from its roadside location and place it against a small hillside in Sonoma, it would be right at home. But first you would have to double the price of the wines…

2002 Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County – Classic bright, fruit-forward offering with grapefruit and melon qualities. Mellowed a bit in that 50% of the wine saw some American oak. Pretty decent wine for $10.00

2002 Vioginer – Sweetened honeysuckle and distinct rose petal aromas do not prepare for the creamy apricot and tropical fruit flavors. $10.00

2002 Reserve Chardonnay – 40% of this wine was stored in French oak. Classic butterscotch bouquet gives way to a more elegant apricot. Surprising lemon peel finish punctuates with a bright note. $12.00

2001 Reserve Syrah – An opaque, magenta purple wine which is full-bodied and plummy. Enticingly spicy with a finish that was a tad hot with alcohol. Great flavors suggests that cellaring for five years would diminish the alcohol and expand the lovely spice. $12.00

2001 Cab-Shiraz Blend – 52% Cabernet and 48% Shiraz, an upfront aroma of jalapeno and green bell pepper did not anticipate the mouth entry of plummy dark fruit. A mid-palate of red cherry complements the secondary spicy notes. A surprisingly velvety finish. $15.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – More green bell pepper aromas also demonstrated earthy, green notes. 22 months in French oak provided some darker rich tannins in the black cherry mouthfeel. $15.00

2002 Petite Sirah – Layered, earthy bouquet also provided enticing floral notes and a hint of green herb. Exciting and concentrated, spiced include allspice and clove with a long, fabulous finish of oak, vanilla, and more dark cherry. What a great deal for the price! $18.00

2001 "Old Vine" Zinfandel - From 54-year old vines. Hues of cherry with hints of coffee. A very smooth, rich entry into the mouth with a port-like mid-palate. Full and rich, a touch of licorice on the finish. $18.00

2002 Late Harvest Zinfandel Reserve – Intense and concentrated dark fruit flavors including black raspberry, black berry, and black cherry. Touches of BBQ meat with a sweet, meaty finish. $20.00

Van Ruiten Family Winery ~ 340 West Highway 12 ~ Lodi ~ CA ~ 95242 ~ 209-334-5722

Continuing the Lodi adventure and figuratively throwing a dart at the Lodi map, Borra Family Winery was next on the excursion. Well, maybe when I asked Tim Spence of St. Amant where I should go next, he hemmed and hawed a bit, not wanting to speculate on any of his competitors and neighbors. I pestered a bit and both he and Ernie spoke highly of Borra’s Fusion… Finding Borra was considerably easier than finding St. Amant as it lies on a main road and is clearly marked.

The tasting room is relatively small, however, in a separate building adjacent to the rest of the facilities. It is beautifully decorated with a variety of items for sale that enhance its charm; furniture, clothing, and jewelry. There is a great deal of natural light that comes in the building, which at best holds 16 or 18 people.

I had some difficulties with some of the presentation which I am reluctant to describe, only because I don’t like to complain. I was a tad disturbed that the pours were almost too small to get adequate tasting notes; to the tune of less than half-an-ounce. It was nice, though, that a large tasting crackers and chocolate was set up. So often a wine is enhanced with various food pairings and having both sweet and savory choices was warm and inviting.

I found it odd that after each pour, the hostess immediately put a VacuVin into the bottle and proceeded to pump out the air. This with a roomful of people, not an empty tasting room where the bottle won’t be opened again for hours. I can see that Borra is highly regarded – in the short time I was there, several large groups worked their way into the room, bringing friends and comrades to share their delight. I just wish I had been as delighted and will go back another time to see if it was simply an off day.

2002 Borra Viognier, Gill Creek Ranch – Grassy and surprisingly sweet. Bright and metallic, I was surprised to learn the wine had seen some oak. Green grass finish. $16.00

2003 Chardonnay, Gill Creek Ranch – Concentrated apricot bouquet with a creamy entry. Tight, mineral finish. $16.00

2002 Merlot, Gill Creek Ranch – Overtly jammy blackberry and cherry aromas. Warm and rich with a layered, berry jam finish. Did I mention how jammy it was? $16.00

2003 Zinfandel, Gill Creek Ranch – Hot, hot aromas. Thin and metallic in the mouth with a wimpy, acidic finish. Unknown price.

2003 Fusion – An interesting blend of 46% Syrah, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 8% Zinfandel. Enticing berry and cocoa bouquet. Fresh red cherry with layers of herbal qualities that tease. Thinner finish that I would have anticipated. $16.00

2002 Barbera, Carru’ Vineyard Ranch – Hospital, medicinal aromas
sadly overwhelm in nose and mouth entry. Some cherry in the bright,
acidic mid-palate with more Band-Aid on the finish. $16.00

Borra Family Winery ~ 1301 East Armstrong Road ~ Lodi ~ CA ~ 95242 ~ 209-368-2446

I owe the discovery of St. Amant Winery (sorry, no website link) to Derrick of An Obsession With Food.  When I told him I was heading out to Lodi to blog, he recommended I get in touch with Tim Spencer, owner, winemaker, and chief cook-and-bottle-washer of St. Amant. Don’t confuse this St. Amant with the same winery in Louisiana with the same name; they are completely winery. Also, I’ll confess up front, of the six or seven wineries I visited in Lodi during my first excursion, St. Amant was my favorite stop.

Completely unpretentious, the "winery" is housed in an industrial complex near the edge of town. You have to make an appointment as there is no fancy building, no wine-related decorations, and no grapevine-bedecked clothing to be had. Entering the warehouse, don’t be put off by the plastic chairs around the fold-up table or the plank of wood atop a few barrels as the tasting bar. None of that matters when you taste the wine and when you meet Tim.

In the wine business for over 33 years, Tim Spencer had no intention of owning a winery. His family had been farming in Lodi and Amador since the 1800’s and in 1972, he planted grapes which he sold. After one of the wineries he sold to went bankrupt, he decided he could just as easily utilize the grapes himself, have the fun of making wine, an go bankrupt himself. Not only did he not go bankrupt, he has travelled the globe lecturing on California winery practices, planted extensive European varietals, and has established himself as the first California Vintner to be honored by the French government with the title "Honorary Frenchman for a Day."

One of the wonderful things about hanging out with such icons in the industry, are the additional characters that you meet in passing. In the hour or so I was tasting wines with Tim, Ernie Dosio stopped in "just to hang out." Dosio runs Pacific Agrilands, a vineyard management company. What is so special about that? Tim let me in a little secret — Ernie manages somewhere close to 55,000 acres of wine-making agriculture (mostly for E&J Gallo). I think that is very, very cool.

You can tell that I think pretty highly of St. Amant and I imagine telling you about the wine will help. Part of it is the grapes. Along with the stalwart Lodi standard, Zinfandel, Tim Spencer grows a number of Portuguese and Spanish grapes which he feels are better suited to the warmer climate of the West Sierra Foothills. As the proof is in the pudding, it was tasting these wines that blew me away – amazing quality wines at stunningly low prices. Being used to paying $50 for a concentrated, inky Zin, I could barely contain my glee at finding wines at less than half that cost!

2004 Verdelho – Grown in Amador and bottled only a week before it was opened for me, this is a Portuguese white grape I had never tasted before. It produced bright, grassy aromas with hints of green apple. The perfumey and enticing notes segued into the mouth with a tantazling green honey sensation with a creamy finish. Outstanding at $15.00

2003 Mohr-Fry Ranchers Lodi Zinfandel – From old vines planted in 1944, this dark, inky red exhibits jammy tones of plum, raisin, and fig. There is a hint of earthiness that opens up with swirling. The port-like entry is concentrated, thick, and rich with an extended ripe and chewy finish. A lovely fruit bomb. $18.00

2003 Marian’s Vineyard Zinfandel – These vines were planted in 1901 and produce an almost blackish/purply wine. Plummy and elegant, with a sweet essence of chocolate and blackberry. Rich, but heightened with a tangy mid-palate that is bright and engaging with a spicy, hedonistic finish. $24.00

2003 Tempranillo, Amador – I’ve never seen such an inky-dark Tempranillo before. This wine is Syrah-like with its bright cherry bouquet and even, smooth entry. A tobacco and balanced tannic mid-palate give way to a mineral finish. As dark as it is, the aromas and dry, even tannins are incredibly balanced. $18.00

Veno Do Sol – The first time this wine was made, this is a white Port made with fortified Verdelho grapes from 67-year old vines. Surprising that a clear, golden-colored wine produces sweet, red apple scents (I might have anticipated GREEN apple, but not RED apple!) While the entry is honey and sweet, it is not syrupy whatsoever, but crisp with a floral finish. $18.00

Here is where my admiration for Tim Spencer grew, for both his red Port offerings were produced from a blend of the five classic Port-wine grapes; Touriga, Tinta Cao, Alvarelhao, Souzao, and Tinta Roriz. He keeps the varietals separate and evaluates the lots to determine which blend of each grapes goes into his two Ports:

2002 Bootleg Port – Complex clove and dark fruit. Inky color with cocoa and lighter chocolate offerings. Engaging and complex, for those times when I like drinking a young, über-rich Port. $18.00

2003 St. Amant Vintage Port – Over-the-top opulent. First fruit, then herbs, then some sweetness but very accessible. Chocolate-covered cherries that keeps going with an intensely smooth mouth feel. I’m going to hold onto this bottle for ten or 15 years. $30.00

St. Amant Winery ~ One Winemaster Way ~ Lodi ~ CA ~ 95240 ~ 209-367-0646

Yep, I’m finally exploring new frontiers – the wild and wooley land of Lodi which I knew (as many people do) from the Creedance Clearwater Revival lyrics, "…I’m lookin’ for a pot of gold,
Things got bad and things got worse, I guess you know the tune,
Oh Lord, I’m stuck in Lodi again." Well I didn’t get stuck, but I did find many pots of gold. Liquid gold. Wine. 

Getting off the freeway, I figured I would head towards the visitor’s center and pick up a map – not really knowing exactly where I was headed. However, on the two-lane road flanked with farm houses and budding vineyards, wineries began to appear and I figured I didn’t need the visitor’s center at all. Throwing caution to the wind, I pulled in to Jessie’s Grove Winery.

At a 116 years old, Jessie’s Grove contains the oldest vines in Lodi. It seems that Jessie’s father, Joseph, arrived in the Lodi area in the 1860s, searching not for vineyard property, but a land "where the oak trees grew the tallest." When Jessie herself inherited the property, she kept 32-acres of oak preserved in memory of her father. The property itself is still very much a ranch-like settlement, with chickens and roosters running around, in front of the tasting room building.

The tasting room is full of charm and history — the entire back wall contains a photo montage of the family’s history. Marie was setting up to pour for the day I arrived and graciously invited me and my friend, Miss Bell, in to taste, even though they didn’t open for an hour. Eager to  chat about the summer Blues concerts which take place on the site as well as the quality of the wine, it was quite easy to get entranced at the legacy of the wine and the establisment.  Interestingly enough, the wines are all priced in such a way that with tax added in, each bottles rounds up to a even dollar amount.

2003 "Blue Moon," Lodi – A blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Chardonnay produces a clear, straw-colored wine. Bright honeysuckle fruit the clean, peach and apricot flavors. Crisp and clean with a honeyed essence as its spine. $12.07

2002 Chardonnay, Lodi – Buttery and creamy in aroma and flavors, a classic California Chardonnay with tropical fruits and some apple notes. Bright and enticing with even acidity. $17.63

2003 Carignane, Lodi Ancient Vines - A blend of 15% Petite Sirah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and a hint of Syrah accompany this classic Rhone varietal. Thorny brambleberries tease the nose and tingle a bit upon entry that expands to produce a  flowerly, raspberry chewiness. A complex, mineral finish in this complex wine. Interesting and a great value for the price. $14.85

2003 "Earth, Zin & Fire," Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi – Hearkening to the concerts held on the grounds, the back label of this bottle is designed to look like a concert ticket and the front label’s postscript is "Front Row Zinfandel." Fruity, fruity aromas of warm figs roasted with holiday baking spices pair with jammy flavors and smoked bacon. This is intensely rich with a heightened, mid-palate that displays a tangy finish. Opulent and rich and another great value wine. $14.85

2001 "Westwind" Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi – Coming from 64-year-old vineyards, this inky, dark purple wine exhibits plummy, anise aromas. Amazingly smooth entry is even and balanced. Marie offers a bite of 70% Scharffen Berger chocolate which, complementing the wine, expands the plummy tones and expanding the spices. A slightly tinny finish does not dimish the quality. $19.49

Jessie’s Grove Winery ~ 1973 W. Turner Road ~ Lodi ~ CA ~ 95242 ~ 209-368-2728

O’Howell Mountain is becoming the Nirvana of vineyard property in the Napa valley. Some of the most prestigious wines being made today are coming off this mountain and there are very few wines from the Howell Mountain appellation that haven’t just plain knocked my socks off. With that, it was with great excitement that I got to visit the estate on which Betty O’Shaughnessy has built her winery.

Finding the winery is a tad tricky — driving through what seems a private gate, there is almost a two-mile drive on a single lane before the building appears. At elevation 1,900, the estate is 36 acres of buildings and vineyards, but it is discreetly hidden among the forest and natural landscaping on the mountain. I don’t have a confirmation, but I wonder if the building architect and landscape architect were not one and the same — or at least worked closely together.

The interior of the building complex is stunningly appointed with custom-designed furniture and amazing artwork. The stonework in the building is Sonora Gold, the tables throughout the reception area were all custom-made from rare, West African hardwoods like exotic babinka. There is a wine library which plays center stage that was designed similar to that at Aureole in Las Vegas; entirely vertical and temperature-controlled (I regret that my photograph was mostly reflection of the glass, hence it is not posted). Also cleverly included in the tasting area is an indoor/outdoor fireplace, meaning it was designed to be accessible from both the inside reception area and the outdoor seating area.

Sean Capiaux is the resident winemaker, but was also instrumental in the design of the stainless steel tanks used in the production. With a self-contained pumping, heating, and cooling system, each tank can be automatically and independently controlled. As the winery is producing less than 1,500 cases, Sean is also actively working on developing is own namesake wines with five, vineyard-specific Pinot Noir under the name Capiaux Cellars.

I meant to ask if Sean was involved in the design of the caves, for they are truly stupendous as well. It is pretty rare to find caves that are double-wide — that is, instead of an aisle down the middle with barrels up against the walls, there are actually two aisles with four rows of barrels in 12,000 square-feet of caves. These barrels contain the two different Cabernets that O’Shaughnessy produces, one from their Howell Mountain estate and another from a smaller, Mount Veeder vineyard.

I was fortunate to visit and they welcome guests for tours, but could only taste upcoming offerings from barrels (pulled by Sean himself!) as current offerings were already sold out and there was none to be had for purchase. Sadly, this is a pretty standard occurrence and is not too surprising considering the quality of the wine and I’m sure even future releases will sell out quickly. They welcome visitors with grace and charm, but if you go, don’t get your hopes of being able to take any bottles with you, but maybe getting on the mailing list will confirm some in the future!

2003 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – Already incredibly smooth, the dark, inky purple juice produced plummy, blackberry tones with even, opulent spice qualities. With some swirling, the spices opened up to produce Moroccan-like qualities of elegance with cinnamon, ginger, clove, and sumac. There was some rustic, tobacco qualities on the finish. Only 1,200 cases to be produced. Price unknown.

2003 Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon – Again, intensely dark fruit of black cherry more so than the berries of Howell Mountain. Just as jammy in its concentration with more bright fruit up front that tames down to a balanced, perfectly tannic elegance that is bold and smooth. Only 150 cases to be produced. Price unknown.

O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery ~ P.O. Box 923 ~ Angwin ~ CA ~ 94508 ~ 707-965-2898