Archive for March, 2005

Miner Family Winery – 48

Saturday, March 19th, 2005

Miner_signMiner is a relative new-comer on the Napa wine-making page, having only been established in 1998. But in those few short years, Dave and Emily Miner, along with Dave’s parents Ed and Norma, have built an amazing business. There is an impressive building as wine-making facilities and guest center but there is also very impressive wine.

Miner_room2002 Chardonnay, Wild Yeast – Full malo, this wine presents a dark, yeasty bouquet underneath which lies a hint of stone fruit. Warm, and buttery on the tongue, there is a surprising freshness with a bright finish. $50.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Rosella’s Vineyard – Over-the-top aromas of wild strawberry and raspberry. Definite WOW factor in the nose which subsides a bit to present a layer of cedar. The soft entry produces balanced berry flavors with a touch of dark spice and a bright, tangy finish. $50.00

2001 Syrah, Napa Valley – From three different vineyards, the aromas immediately presented include candied red hots with layers of dried flowers. The dry mid-palate produces some meaty textures and finishes with dark, spicy notes. $28.00

2001 Merlot, Oakville – Berry jam almost overwhelms. Full and robust, there is a smokiness when it enters the mouth. A spicy cherry finish. $28.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville – Intense dark berry with immense amounts of cassis and spicey aromas. A hint of coffee anticipates the coffee and berry flavors upon entry. Rather tight with a balanced, mineral ending that is dark and luscious and does not seem to end. $50.00

Miner Family Vineyards ~ 7850 Silverado Trail ~ Oakville ~ CA 94562 ~ 800-366-WINE

ZD Wines – 47

Friday, March 18th, 2005

Zd_signZD is one of those places that I drive by twice a day on my way to work. I’ve always admired their gold-gilt sign which is a good thing because the building structure is slightly sunken below the roadway and driving by, most of what you see are rooftops. I had no idea that ZD was the brainchild of two aerospace engineers, Norman de Leuze and Gino Zepponi back in the late 1960s. The de Leuze family runs the show at this point and I was dutifully impressed – at the reception, the facilities, and the wine.

Zd_bldgThe tasting room is of moderate size, neither too large nor too small, and quite comfortable. Some art is seen scattered about, but not overtly so. A fireplace offers warmth and a hominess in the corner. The pouring staff are tremendously helpful and exuberant. They are obviously here because they like what they are doing and they like the wine they are pouring — something that is surprisingly rare in the industry.

Zd_tasting_room2002 Chardonnay, California – I love a non-ML chard and this one definitely peaked my interest. This wine did see ten months of American oak, which is ever so slightly discernable. Pale in the glass with light aromas of apricot and a hint of floral. Engaging fruit entry that zings into a balanced, even acidic mouth feel. Hint of toast on the finish. $30.00

2002 Reserve Chardonnay, Napa Valley – Eighteen months in American oak, this offering definitely produced complex creamy tones. The apricot aromas seemed more ripe than the previous wine and expanded in the mouth adding to the pear and vanilla qualities. Pleasant, punctuated acidic finish. $48.00

2002 Rosa Lee Pinot Noir, Carneros – Very bright in color and in aromas. Distinctive wild strawberry bouquet complements the strawberry mouth-entry which blossoms into slightly darker, cherry tones. Very engaging with a bit of a smoky, mineral finish. $20.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros – Ten months in French oak give this wine an incredibly rich, dark nose of elegant, jammy berries. Integrated fruit flavors in the mouth produce a bright mid-palate that hints at vanilla but teases only long enough to ultimately produce a mineral finish. $30.00

1998 Pinot Noir, Carneros, Library Selection – Bricky, orange in color, this lovely wine is more Burgundian in its offering with earthy strawberry aromas that give way to a hint of mint. Very balanced, bright flavors with some floral and lavendar flavors and a distinctly cinnamon finish. $40.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Exuberantly dark purple in color, this wine explodes with plummy cherry tones that suggest a little earthiness. Deep and balanced, the brighter entry transforms into muskier tones of tobacco and vanilla but finish with floral qualities. A full metamorphosis in one sip. $42.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Three years in American oak, this is an intensely elegant wine. The aromas of earth, berry, and tobacco just play with you before the soft, even entry explodes with fruit and dark spices that whisper of black licorice. Immensely concentrated, the long, long finish never gives up. $115.00

ZD Wines ~ 8383 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 800-487-7757

Artesa – 46

Thursday, March 17th, 2005

Artesa_signArtesa Winery is hands-down one of the most stunningly beautiful establishments in all of winedom. Owned by Spanish-based Cordoniu, it was constructed in 1991 to be a sparkling wine producer. I believe my first visit there was in ’92 or ’93 and I remember well the peaceful, serene surroundings and ultra-elegant glasses of bubbly shared on the terrace over looking the Carneros appellation. But that was over then years ago. Back then, when you drove up, you could actually see the building…

Artesa_bldgWith all its glitz and glamor, Artesa is not located within eye-shot of a major highway. There is no ostentatious edifice which will lure in the uninitiated. You have to hunt for it and even when you think you might be close, you aren’t sure. After driving off a small, access road and around some small hills, all you see is a bump on a grassy hill. Yes, when I first visited the winery ten years ago, the building structure was visible and now it is submerged. You drive up a meandering, slightly twisty road — past a farmhouse here and a smaller winery there, until the grand fairy mound magically appears.

Artesa_entranceThen, you actually see stairs, flanked by thin, parallel fountains with water that runs down as you ascend, like a stream coming down a mountain. At the pinnacle, a large pool of dark water with modern cleaves of metal jutting out and fountains which anoint the visitor with a mist, a spray to cleanse before entering.  A sharp, black glass angle heaves its way from the organic mass next to the threshold – making its presence known. You are Thomas Mann’s Hans Castorp and this magic mountain will transform.

Artesa_insideStepping inside is a moment of metamorphosis. Warm wood and spaces separated only with clear glass and a multitude of smooth columns, the immensity is immediately apparent. Art is everywhere. Sculptures of glass, paper, clay, wood, and more — not crowded and overwhelming, but strategically placed in such a manner to complement and entice. A non-art lover might never realize what surrounds them. And if a history buff is part of the entourage, neither will they be disappointed as an extensive historical museum has been established, instructing in both the history of the area as well as the history of wine in general.

Artesa_artBesides the tremendous growth of grass over the estate, a few other changes have been underway. While an occasional sparkling is now made, in 1999 the company changed direction entirely towards the production of still wine. To my immense joy, the winery has also established an artist-in-residence program as well, which explains the ever-evolving display which so entranced yours truly. The tasting room is large, but there are only two tasting bars to accommodate the crowds, although guests are more than welcome to sit at one of the many minimalist-designed seatings. One bar is devoted to VIPs and wine club guests. The only complaint, if there could be one, is with the acoustics. With the vaulted ceilings set above voluminous amounts of wood and glass, when the room is full it becomes very, very loud. Visit Artesa, but go on a weekday and if you admire modern art, make sure to give yourself ample time — this is not an establishment that can be rushed. Oh yeah, and they make pretty good wine, too:

Artesa_art_22001 Artesa Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County – Light garnet color with a warm, dark berry nose. Well-balanced acidity complements the Indian spices which tantalize the finish. $25.00

2002 Artesa Pinot Noir, Carneros – Effusive, black raspberry bouquet gave way to dark, spicy notes. Almost the antithesis of the bright, engaging mouth entry which finished quite smoothly. $20.00

2002 Artesa Reserve Pinot Noir, Carneros – Exciting classic fruit combinations of cherry, blueberry, and cassis produce an elegant aroma. A soft entry produces more cherry and complements with spice. More balanced and expansive than the previous two with a long, round finish. $40.00

2000 Artesa Merlot, Sonoma Valley – Hints of green bell pepper give way to bigger plum nose qualities. Huge mid-palate of vanilla with a dry-ish, spicy finish. $19.99

2000 Artesa Merlot, Napa Valley – Bigger green bell pepper aromas, akin to the Stags Leap District. Darker fruit of black plum with relatively soft tannins. $19.99

2001 Merlot, Napa Valley – Orangy, garnet color. Bright berry and cherry with a hint of a green, mineral finish. It approaches the tongue as soda-pop would; effusive cherry cola but lays back to produce earthier qualities. $19.99

2000 Artesa Reserve Merlot, Sonoma Valley – Elegant, candy-like bouquet which blossoms with full, dark brambleberries. The candy in the nose transforms into rose petals on the tongue followed by darker berries, vanilla, and a distinct coffee-like finish. $50.00

2001 Artesa Syrah, Sonoma Valley – Exciting dark fruits like black plum, black raspberry, and blackberry that is full and balanced. Very, very easy to drink. This would make a great beginner’s Syrah as an introduction wine. $15.99

2001 Elements Proprietary Blend – 72% Merlot, 10% Syrah, and the rest a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and 2% Tempranillo. This wine as touted as an "exotic and spicy blend of Bordeaux and Rhone varietals." Interesting concept. There is definitely a WOW factor with the first sniff which produces candied red hots and subsides to produce lots of fruit. The mouth entry is bright and the subsequent taste is not exceptionally full or deep, but very, very interesting and fun. $19.99

2001 Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley – Jammy and perfumey with floral tones in its aroma. Very soft, velvety entry which tightens a bit. Herbal finish that is surprisingly accommodating. $30.00

2001 Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – A bit of candy shop on the nose in its vanilla and bright berry fruit. Dry mid-palate shows dark spices like clove and cumin which belies its overall brightness. $30.00

2000 Artesa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Huge, syrupy, sweet nose. Port-like aromas do not prepare for the velvety, creamy entry. Long and silky a mid-palate of vanilla extract with hints of balsamic that finishes rather earthy. $60.00

NV Artesa Select Late Harvest Gewurztraminer, San Benito County – At 9.5% residual sugar, I would have thought this wine sweeter than it was. Pale, straw-like colors do not anticipate the strikingly bright and smooth entry. Aromas of litchi and apricot do not prepare for the taste which is the pure Essence of Gewurztraminer. Surprisingly smooth and even with a silky finish. $27.50

Artesa ~ 1345 Henry Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94559 ~ 707-224-1668

Piña – 45

Tuesday, March 15th, 2005

Pina_sign_1Piña has been listed in two appellations, Rutherford and Howell Mountain. This is because their physical location, right on the Silverado Trail, is located within the Rutherford appellation. However, the only wine that is currently produced is from Howell Mountain vineyards. But I should backtrack a bit…

Here in the Napa Valley, everybody knows the Piña name. Technically, there are four Piñas — all brothers: Davie, Ranndy, Larry, and John. Their great-grandfather, Blueford Stice, came from MissouriDavie_pina to the Napa Valley as the lead in a wagon train in 1856. Blueford’s son, Lafayette, farming and learning the local industry, became winemaker at the now historically famous Inglenook. Lafayette’s daughter Mabel, along with her husband Charles Glos, homesteaded a Howell Mountain ranch. The Piña name comes from paternal grandparents who, after emigrating from Spain via Hawaii, ultimately settled on the Rutherford property where you will now find their progeny.

Barrell_samplesWith the legacy inherited, one would think the brothers would immediately set out in the wine business as producers. But that was not the case for in 1979, they started as vineyard managers, establishing a well-earned reputation for sustainable farming. It was only in 1996 that they finally purchased the "Buckeye" ranch on Howell Mountain, literally in view of the their grandparents’ original farmstead. 2000 was the first year a Howell Mountain Piña Cabernet Sauvignon was produced. Already looking to the future, vineyards in Oakville have already been planted and a section of the property in Rutherford is already in the planning stages for planting.

Pina_barrel_roomPiña is an appointment-only winery, but if you time it right, you might be able to stop by during one of their famous open-house paella parties. There I was able to meet all the brothers and winemaker, Ted Osborne. Davie poured from the latest release, the 2001, and Ted pulled some barrel samples from the 2002 offerings. Keep an eye on this winery — it is exceedingly rare to find a Howell Mountain Cabernet so inexpensively priced. This is indeed a bargain and I project will soon be known:

2001 Piña Howell Mountain Cabernet – Classic Howell Mountain characteristics of a soft, velvety entry. Dark, elegant spices of nutmeg and clove tease the nose and complex, concentrated roasted rig and dark berry fill the mouth. Mild acidicty smooths out for a tantalizing finish. $48.00

2002 Piña Howell Mountain Cabernet – From the barrel, already accessible with warm, bright fruit presenting on the nose. More of the dark, opulent berries and spice with an elegant, heavenly, heady finish. Not yet priced.

Piña ~ 8060 Silverado Trail ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94305 ~ 707-944-2229

Sebastiani – 44

Sunday, March 13th, 2005

Sebastiani_signSebastiani Vineyards and Winery is one of the old stalwarts of Sonoma, having been in business for just a hundred years. Their vineyards are even older. In 1904, Samuele Sebastiani purchased vineyards that had been planted by the Franciscans back in 1825. Samuele’s son, August, took over the winery in 1944 and increased the production exponentially, introducing America to "Nouveau" Gamay Beaujolais, and gaining a reputation as a skilled winemaker.

Sebastiani_bldgThe current facilities lie just a few walking blocks away from picturesque downtown Sonoma Square. It is a lovely walk, by the way, as you past many historic buildings. The building facilities are large and daunting and the entrance to the tasting room is awe-inspiring with its tremendous bounty of booty to be purchased.

Sebastiani_tasting_roomI will frequently bemoan the wine-related tschotchkes that are peddled in most commercial tasting centers, but I have to admit that the sheer volume AND quality of plates, decorative items, jewelry, housewares, and clothing at Sebastiani has yet to be surpassed. The other surprising factor (for me, at any rate), was the quality of the wine. Being a baby-boomer, there is a certain reputation that certain wines have by virtue of having been served "by the carafe" to my parents when I was growing up.

Sebastiani_barrel_room2004 Pinot Noir Blanc (Eye of the Swan) – A Pinot that sees skin contact for 24 hours. Rather nice balance of acid and a touch of sweetness. Bright entry blossoms in the mouth for a full, creamy finish that suggests banana. $13.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast – Massive fruit bomb. Somewhat harsh coffee, strawberry entry levels out to a smoother finish of vanilla. $15.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros – Oaky aromas slowly hint at a jammy cherry bouquet and a hint of petrol. Acidic mid-palate and a rather strident finish. $24.00

2001 Zinfandel, Sonoma County – Enticing smoky raspberry and lavender notes anticipates the mouth feel quite nicely. A fruit forward finish with a touch of spice. $15.00

2002 Domenici Zinfandel – Fruit bomb aromas of jammy raspberry which fade to produce a little candy shop spice. Velvety entry produces a balanced, even taste with a slight spiced punctuated finish. My pick of the tasting! $25.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County – Green bell pepper scents subsides to produce overtly blackberry tones. Herby mid-palate finishes in spicy qualities. $17.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, "Cherryblock" – Very fruit-forward, jammy aromas of dark fruit and a touch of oak. Opulent-style apparent on entry with a hot mid-palate that will subside with aging. A balanced, mineral finish didn’t disappoint. $75.00

2004 Sylvia Sebastiani’s Symphony – Symphony is a hybrid grape developed by Dr. Harold Olmo of UC Davis comprised of Alexandria Muscat and Grenache. This wine is grown in the Clarksburg Appellation in Yolo County. The wine is a light straw color and being over 3% residual sugar, is a tad sweet. Aromas and flavors of grapefruit and more subtle tropical fruits. $15.00