Ultimate California Wine Blog

Driving around the wineries of the Russian River Valley can be a bit tricky — as opposed to the tourist-friendly Highway 29 in Napa, many of the Sonoma Wineries are not clumped together, clustered one after another like fine wooden soldiers. You have to hunt for them, driving down seemingly lonely residential roads. Battaglini Estate Winery is on such a road, barely marked with nary a painted line, I was unsure I was even go to find a winery… And there amongst houses and barns and abandoned farm equipment lay the markings of a winery. Nestled near an almost-falling dilapidated barn lies a cluster of small buildings which make up the tasting room, wine production facilities, and probably the very house where the owners live.

The estate has a lot going for it including historical vines dating back to the 1880s. The production is wholly and entirely Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Chardonnay — rather unusual for what is getting to be known as Pinot country. Having made wines since 1994, the Battaglini family is close knit with father, "Joe," operating with wife, Lucia, at his side. Children Giulio, Lidia, Paolo, and Dino make up the rest of the staff; Sales and Marketing, Customer Relations, Finance, and Operations, respectively.

FROM THE BARRELS
On the day of my visit, barrels were out for samples. Being the red lover that I am, I decided to forgo the Chardonnay samples and headed straight for the Petite Sirah and Zinfandel…

2003 Zinfandel Reserve – Jammy nose anticipates the mouth entry. Extremely dark purple presents all the dark berries in the mouth; blackberry, boysenberry, and raspberry. Spicy, peppery finish. Not yet priced.

2004 Zinfandel Reserve – Overtly raspberry nose which gives way to darker cocoa tastes. Dry ending. Not yet priced.

2003 Petite Sirah – So dark purple, it was almost blue. Incredibly exotic spice combination in its bouquet, already velvety and smooth. Fabulous potential which I will definitely go back for when bottled! Not yet priced.

2004 Petite Sirah – Green, almost unripe aromas with very tight, highly tannic flavors. Minty finish. Not yet priced.

FROM THE BOTTLES
1998 Twin Pines Estate Zinfandel – Surprisingly light color for a Zinfandel. Candy shop bouquet which subsided to reveal some green fruit. Even entry with a dry, cocoa finish. This wine, specifically, was from the 1885 vines. $25.00

2000 Battaglini Estate Zinfandel – Bright berry bouquet with a hint of candy. Tannic and bright finish with layered, tight finish. $25

2001 Battaglini Estate Zinfandel – Complex spice qualities in the nose; cinnamon, clove, nutmeg. Dark berry flavors surprise the entry as it tends towards a brighter, dry finish. $25.00

2001 Late Harvest Chardonnay – Tropical fruit aromas subsided to produce a soapy smell, like Dove or something. Pale mid-palate and thin, soapy finish. $15.00

I was very sorry there were no bottles of Petite Sirah to sample on the day I was there!

Battaglini Estate Winery ~ 2948 Piner Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 707-578-4091

Mumm Napa is one of the famous sparkling producers whose business has taken them from the chateaux of France to the vineyards of Napa. Having a century-and-a-half of experience producing Champagne in France, it should be no surprise that their New World offering is just as exceptional, but also more cutting edge, moving beyond the expected Blanc de Blanc and Blanc de Noir offerings.

The building is large and expansive as one enters through their retail gift area. Upon entry, I did hear an exiting conversation exclaim what a great store Mumm had ("this is one of the best wine stores I’ve been to"). Well, it was pretty and there were darn nice items to be had, but I tend to move beyond most retail rooms except when interior decoration or specific art is concerned. I just glanced at the pretties which I know I can’t afford.

Through the retail store is a service area which is unlike most tasting rooms in the wine country. Like several other sparkling producers, there is an added level of sophistication with full table-side service. So on a stunningly beautiful day, I headed out for a bit of bubbly. Being that sparkling wine is all Mumm makes (versus some of the other  producers who also produce still wine), there are a number of different options; a comparison of their recent premium DVX vintages, a Reserve-only tasting, a Pinot-based only tasting, their standard Mumm offerings, a category indicated as Nectar of the Gods which included their Demi Sac, and a non-alcoholic offering for designated drivers.

I opted for their strictly Pinot offering, having tasted their Blanc de Blanc and DVX offerings in the past. I will also give tremendous credit for a statement on their menu which I had never seen before at any other winery: "As a member of the Napa County Responsibility Coalition, there is a two-flute limit." Very impressive amount of responsibility considering the number of DUIs which occur in the valley. All that, and the Pinot-based sparklings were a lovely surprise:

NV Blanc de Noirs – 85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay. Salmon rose in color. Ripe raspberry and strawberry enter crisply into the mouth and quickly warms to a creamy mid-palate. A bright and fruity finish. $18

NV Sparkling Pinot – 100% Pinot Noir. Rich ruby color anticipates the plum and black cherry entry. After the effervescence subsides, a balanced, layered finish includes a hint of clove and cinnamon.

NV Cuvee M Red – 96% Pinot Noir, 4% Syrah. This was a huge surprise. Complex dark cranberry and blackberry enters with exciting jammy notes. A cherry mid-palate gives way to an intriguing spicy finish.

Mumm Napa ~ 8445 Silverado Trail ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-967-7700

Siduri is the name of the Babylonian goddess of wine. It is also an exceptional Pinot Noir producer in the Russian River Valley. But I didn’t know until I visited their unassuming warehouse establishment that they produce more than Pinot. The first weekend in March is a free-for-all in the Russian River as over a hundred wineries open their doors and barrels for Wine Road — a rare opportunity to taste from the barrels of local producers.

Siduri was my first stop due to their well-earned reception. I did not anticipate tasting more offerings than I thought possible. My surprise was due partly to the fact that this winery is not located in the standard overly-decorated, architectural edifice, but in an industrial complex. Also, there isn’t just Siduri Wines, but Novy Family Wines. Siduri is the brainchild of Adam Siduri and his lovely wife, Dianna and Novy from Dianna’s family. Two labels, but one family producing fabulous wine.

THE BEGINNING

2004 Novy 4-Mile Creek Red Table Wine – A combination of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel, and Grenache. Immediate nose of manure and a harsh, acidic entry. $9.00

2002 Siduri Muirfield Vineyard Pinot Noir – From the Willamette Valley in Oregon. Young raspberry tones with a pale, thin entry and a mineral finish. $29

2003 Siduri Russian River Pinot Noir – From the Keefer Ranch and Sapphire Hill vineyards. Dark raspberry aromas. Herbal mid-palate. Tight finish. $19

2003 Siduri Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir – Initial aroma of minerals then dark, deep fruit. Slightly acidic in the mouth with goes away quickly but leaves a mineral finish. $34

2003 Siduri Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir – From the Santa Lucia Highlands. Rich brambleberry nose which anticipates an opulent mouth entry and that blossoms. Long, berry finish. $43

2003 Siduri Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir – Astounding complex, rich bouquet of dark berry. A hint of bright acid heightens the mid-palate and lingers before revealing a cocoa finish. $29

2003 Novy Sonoma County Syrah – Chewy cherry backs away to reveal some spice in the nose. Rich, dark berry reveals heady, balanced tones with a hint of mineral. Exceptional offering. $19

2003 Novy Christensen Family Vineyard Syrah – Dark, inky color produces equally dark and creamy bouquet which subsides to reveal a hint of green berry. Mouthfeel hints at some green berry but finishes with spice. $25

2002 Novy Alder Springs Vineyard Merlot – Berry beyond ripe! Port-like aromas of ripe brambleberry and blackberry. Shades of green olive in the mid-palate and some tight tannins are soon overshadowed with jammy, enticing spice. $19

2002 Novy Alder Springs Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – More jam, this time in the cherry and blackberry. Elegant spice of clove and cinnamon with full, layered fruit and balanced finish which includes more dark berry. $27

FROM THE BARRELS

2004 Novy Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Meunier – I have never tasted 100% PM and am used to it as a blending grape for sparkling, so I have no way of knowing what to expect. I was astonished at the initial chemical aromas. The entry into the mouth was sharp and acidic but produced a bright, long candy-like finish. Price upon bottling will be $25.

2004 Siduri Lewis Vineyard Pinot Noir – This was my very first taste of a Pinot from a barrel. I have tasted a lot of other wines from barrels, but never a Pinot, so I was a tad surprised how much of the toasted oak I could perceive. There were also huge candy-like bright fruit but a smooth, velvety finish. Price upon release will be $42

ADAMS TABLE

2003 Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir – From Garys’ and Pozoni vineyards. Dark, elegant raspberry with a soft entry and a long, spicy finish. $32

2003 Siduri Keefer Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir – Cinnamon spice and cranberry and raspberry fruit great the nose and anticipate a balanced, even taste. Spicy finish punctuates nicely. $52

2003 Siduri Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir – Classic raspberry bouquet. Tight entry opens in the mouth and blossoms. The finish tightens up a bit. $52

2003 Siduri Olivet Grange Vineyard Pinot Noir – Eucalyptus, anise, and berry aromas predict the full mouth feel and bright mid-palate. Huge, berry finish that keeps going. $34

2003 Siduri Amber Rose Pinot Noir – Named for their daughter, this is a very special and limited release made from seven different vineyards. I don’t know if Amber’s middle name was "Rose" when she was born, but it is not hard to dismiss the astonishing rose bouquet which was coupled with rich, layered berry tones. Extremeley balanced and elegant and unbeatable with long, floral finish. $65

2003 Novy Judge Framily Grenache – Bright, metallic aromas. Full, sweet entry suggests there might be residual sugar, but there is not! 17.4% alcohol, apparently these grapes were incredibly ripe upon harvest. The pale, orange color hardly presented me for the WOW factor of this amazing wine. I forgot to write specifics of character other than "wow." $25

2003 Novy Santa Lucia Highlands Syrah – Nag Champa spice entices the nose (for those unaware, Nag Champa is an incense burned in temples in India — a dark, elegant spice that includes scents of sandalwood, cinnamon, clove, jasmine, and more!). Gives way to white pepper and star anise. Long, ripe fruit and more huge spice fill the mouth.

Siduri Winery and Novy Family Family Wines ~ 980 Airway Court, Suite C ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95403 ~ 707-578-3882

I have long been intrigued by St. Supery because of an extremely intriguing sculpture which lies by their roadside sign; a 20 or 30 foot tall, red-painted industrial drill bit which rises phallicly into the air. I regret that it is not in the photograph, but seen from the road, it beckons the visitor and hints at whimsy that may lie within.

There is a dichotomy when approaching the buildings of St. Supery. The long driveway towards the parking lot puts one in direct path of white Victorian cottage. Is this the tasting room? Apparently not. For immediately in line with the parking area lies a sage green modern complex which can only be described as looking like an industrial compound where the tasting area and more delights await.

The tasting room lies just off a reception area and is quite the standard offering of tasting bar, retail bits, and much jocularity. A rousing group of folks keeps the energy high and occasionally, difficult to get a pour. That is an extremely minor complaint for the pouring staff range from youngsters not able to offer you a pour (but keeps the clean glasses well stocked) to octogenarians with a wealth of information and generosity.

While all this is well and good what I found utterly delightful lies upstairs… Lying the entire length of the building on the upper level is a self-guided tour which includes an extensive gallery space. Bumping into curator and Visitor Center Manager, Chris Parker, I learned that the exhibits revolve often which encourages me to visit often. The current exhibit included paintings, sculptures, crafts, and modern works from local artists. The artist in me started itching again…

2003 Sauvignon Blanc – Stunning pink grapefruit bouquet subsides to reveal aromas of peach and a hint of orange. Even mouth feel with a grassy mid-palate. No harsh acidity which the initial grapefruit suggested. Long, lush grapefruit finish. $18.00

2002 Virtu White Meritage – Flowery clean bouquet. Very bright and easy-drinking blend of 47% Sauvignon Blanc and 53% Semillion. Significant pear and peach tones with a creamy finish hinting at taffy. $25.00

2002 Chardonnay – 47% ML. Considerable, even fruit offering of peach and pear with a hint of orange blossom. Fruity entry into the mouth produces butterscotch and spice. $18.50

2001 Merlot – Cherry and earthy notes penetrate the nose. Spicy core in the mid-palate with a dry finish that includes dark berries and a touch of pepper. $24.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – Red bell pepper nose with layers of dark fruit underneath. Flavors include brambleberry and licorice with a heightened tannic finish. $28.00

2000 Elu Red Meritage – 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. A full 24 months in the barrel. Rich, dark cherry and floral bouquet. Mouth entry includes dark stone fruit and rich cassis. Extremely balanced and even with a even, supple finish. $50

2003 Moscato – 5.9 Residual Sugar. Tremendous citrus on the nose give way to a luxurious, exotic bouquet. Full, creamy ripe peaches counterbalance with slight effervescence. An opulent apricot finish makes this a fun summer wine. $20.00

St. Supery ~ 8440 St. Helena Highway ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-4507