Ultimate California Wine Blog

This is my first and probably only plug I’ll ever make about an event; the First Annual Pinot Days Festival! Yes, I realize there is now a backlash AGAINST Pinot because of what is now known as the Sideways effect, but I was a known Pinotphiliac before the movie and continue to be one.

Organized by my friends Steve and Lisa Rigisich of the Bay Area Wine Project, the three-day festival is kicking off at Fort Mason in San Francisco on Friday night, June 24th with a taste-off comparison of The Best of the Santa Lucia Highlands featuring wines from The Pisoni, Gary’s, and Rosella’s Vineyards. The cool part about this is that the winemakers’ themselves will be at hand for questions, schmoozing, and general camaraderie. Saturday’s event is a tasting from seventy (70!) different Pinot producers along with some demonstrations of how this illustrious grape is so carefully handled. The finale of the weekend a Pinot-producer brunch in an intimate setting in Marin where *other* wines besides Pinot will be tasted (that’s not to say there won’t be Pinot available as well!)

I am looking forward to this event and hope it is the first of many!

Chateau Boswell is one that has intrigued me for some time because of its old-world charm and style in architecture. It lies on the Silverado Trail, beyond Deer Park towards Calistoga. I hazard to guess it is a part of the Trail that is far less traveled as many folks tends towards the town of St. Helena before venturing up that far. Pity that, for a number of exceptional wineries lie up in that vicinity.

Chateau Boswell is not a very well known name due to their limited production; 300 cases of an already-sold-out Chardonnay, 330 cases of a Cuvée, and barely 165 cases of a Reserve Cabernet. Started 1979 by Dr. R. Thornton and Susan Boswell, it is still family-owned and operated. The grapes are grown organically, but not yet certified as such.

When I visited, I was surprised to meet Susan Boswell herself pouring wine and greeting customers. I was fortunate that they are usually only open by appointment and that I stumbled upon an open tasting room on a Saturday. Susan even admitted that her son usually does the tastings. She did explain that all the wines are dedicated to members of the family and that each year she designs a special back label with custom artwork in those dedications.

The tasting room is barely that — a small enclave with antiques which lies adjacent to the barrel room of the winery. There is a hint of mustiness in the air which seems to compliment the surroundings. I tasted two of the offerings during my visit, both of which were exceptional.

2002 Jacquelynn Cuvée — Named after their daughter, this is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc, both from the Stags Leap District. Intensely opulent without the classic dirty Stags Leap flavors I tend to expect. Aromas of dark berry and hints of mocha with balanced tannins that produce concentrated, well-structured fruit and a silky, lingering finish. $64.00

2002 Renaissance Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – Allowing me to taste a sold-out wine is usually a sure sign I am going to want it… Dark aromas of well-integrated blackberry, cassis, oak, and spice successfully anticipate the elegant entry and mouth feel of this wine. 100% new French oak is evident with hints of smoke on the back palate, just barely subsiding to the velvety finish. $94.00

Chateau Boswell ~ 3468 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 707-963-5472

V. Sattui is a tad controversial for a variety of reason. Mostly, it is scoffed at by some wine geeks and locals because it is such a magnet for tourist crowds. With its long-standing history, it is one of the few wineries in the valley that allows picnicking on the grounds. Subsequently, on a hot summer afternoon, the grassy area out front could be literally swamped with bodies.

There are a number of anomalies related to V. Sattui — of note, they do not utilize the distribution system known throughout the wine industry. What does this mean for the consumer? It means that you will never find a V. Sattui wine on a store shelf but are able to have it shipped directly to you, wherever you live (except, of course, Utah).

The picnic area thrives in part because of the tremendously stocked cheese shop and deli. I had visited once during the crush of the crowds and it was only upon a second, quieter visit that I was able to appreciate the quality selection of the cheeses offered. With service of upwards of 2,500 people a DAY during the summer, it is no wonder they have a reputation for selling more cheese than any other store in the state. And the wine? A multitude of offerings – something for everyone, from the beginner to the experienced taster with almost 35 different wines being made. On any given visit, the free tasting will include almost a dozen of those:

2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Suzanne’s Vineyard – Mostly apple and some grass on the nose. Tangy entry with acidic mid-palate. Long, tart finish which shows both herbaciousness and a bit of flinty minerality. 100% Stainless Steel. $16.25

2002 Chardonnay, Carneros – Light on the malo, mostly lemony tones up front.  Sharp, tangy mouthfeel with sharp, tropical fruits that produce a mostly tight, harsh finish. $25.00

2004 Off-Dry Johannisberg Riesling – (Not to be confused with their Dry Johannisberg Riesling!). At 2% residual sugar, mostly sweet offerings of apricot and melon with a distinct honeysuckle finish. $17.50

2003 Gamay Rouge – Downright fluorescent in color, this 1.5% residual sugar tasted shockingly sweeter than the previous Riesling offering. Overwhelming candied cherry and strawberry aromas with a Kool-Aid-like sweet, tinny taste and a mineral finish. $16.25

2001 Pinot Noir, Carneros; Henry Ranch – Harsh candy aromas with a hot, metallic entry. Dry in the middle with a licorice finish. $15.95

2002 Merlot, Carneros; Henry Ranch – Berry and spicy herbs in the bouquet but a hot entry that finishes rather thick and pasty. $25.00

2002 Howell Mountain Zinfandel – Dark, opulent berries with cinnamon and clove wafting behind the fruit. Velvety, soft entry with a long, complex finish. Quite a find! $30.00

2002 Contra Costa Zinfandel, Old Vine – From 48-year old vines. Plummy nose belies the spicy entry and dry, tannic finish. $26.00

2002 Preston Cabernet Sauvignon – Candy shop aromas produce cherry and oak flavors. Dry mid-palate with decent, even finish. $39.00

2002 Morisoli Cabernet Sauvignon – Dark blackberry and cherry with a hint of medicinal tones behind the fruit. Cherry entry with a mineral finish. $47.00

1997 Vin Santo – An intriguing combination of Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Cahaiola grapes. I couldn’t get past the sweetness to discern taste. $25.00

2005 Muscat – Grape nose with candy and orange blossom flavors. Metallic, tinny finish. $17.00

NV Angelica – Interesting blend of a Muscat grapes blended with alembic brandy. Intensely aggressive with some orange behind the heat. $25.00

Madeira – "The oldest produced in the United States." I am entirely unfamiliar with Madeira and can only indicate that I perceived definite oak qualities with sweet molasses. A bit raisiny with a anisette finish. $37.00

V. Sattui ~ 1111 White Lane ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-7774

I’ve been working on the report for Kathryn Kennedy wines for some time. As they are not open to the public, it was not possible to taste the wines at that time so a small selection was taken for tasting with food. I will blog the winery specifics later and link it back to this report but wanted to at least get the food report up. Marty Mathis, Kennedy’s son and winemaker agreed that the wines are best sampled with food and I could think of no better way to taste the wines with a variety of foods. And there is no better place in Napa than Zuzu for tapas.

To a get a broad variety of the styles of wine that Kennedy offers, we chose a 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, a 2001 Tempranillo (sadly, now discontinued), and a 1999 Maridon Vineyard Syrah. I have to admit, I specifically asked for the Tempranillo when I saw it in a case box. Marty admitted that the last of it was being sent to their wine club members only at this point and the vines are being budded over.

One of the many things I like about Zuzu is that their menu changes with the seasons. I have dined their often enough to not be bored and this time was especially thrilling as the spring/summer menu is brand new to me. Giving us time to peruse the recent offerings, a selection of olives and spiced almonds were ordered to stave off the desperate hunger that was setting in. Fortunately, there were four of us to work our way through the menu which promised to be compelling with the wine choices. I started sipping the Sauvignon Blanc which was very pale straw in color. Immediately, I found it tart with lemon and grapefruit notes. There was a heightened green apple in the mid-palate with a luscious, melon and litchee finish. There was a sweet hint to the wine when tasted with the olives, and spicy notes when paired with the almonds.

I frequently forget to order salad in restaurants as they are usually blasé and uninteresting. This one was not, studded with salami, hard-boiled eggs, sliced pepperoncini, miniature tomatoes, and a creamy, enticing dressing. Another sip of the Sauvignon Blanc produced stunning melony flavors that were downright creamy next to the tang in the dressing.

But the reason for this evening as to taste with wines, so the Tempranillo was also opened. I am
truly sorry this wine is no longer being made as the initial aromas of
plum hides hints of earthiness. A swirl or two later, and orgasmic
coffee and chocolate aromas develop.

Next came a variety of fish courses. The first was bay scallops, broiled with Jambon Serrano and bread crumbs. These did not last very long as the contrast of the salty bits with the crunchy bread crumbs enlivened the sweet scallops. With the Tempranillo, hints of a floral bouquet with highlights of minerality and perfectly balanced tannins.

Bacalao is the Spanish word for dried salt cod. Here, it is taken to a new level. There is much debate about the over-use of truffle oil, but with the saltiness of the puréed cod, I think truffle oil is a perfectly fine application. The tang of the salt showed considerably more grapefruit with in the Sauvignon Blanc, while in the Tempranillo, a depth of butter was evident in the bacalao preparation.

Not wanting to wait any longer, the Syrah was opened. Dark and inky purple in color, candy shop aromas were immediate but subsided to show an intense, elegant smokiness. Plum and dark black berries played against tantalizing meaty barbecue flavors and hints of roasted Brazilian nuts and pepper. I immediately tasted this again a roasted octopus salad with harissa dressing and shredded greens. The harissa was spicy and brought out the fruit-bomb nature of the freshly-opened Syrah.

With our two red wines, heartier dishes were a necessity and house-made chorizo with French lentils was the perfect choice. The chorizo was slightly smoked and very tender and the dark, baby lentils produced depth and contrast, especially with the Tempranillo which heightened with more dark chocolate flavors.

A showcase of Zuzu’s menu, and one that does not change, regardless of the season, is their paella. Here it is served with four mussels, four clams, chorizo, and a hefty dollop of aïoli. In the past (or perhaps when they are fresh), there have been shrimp in the paella as well. This was an amazing accompaniment to the Syrah, which was opening and blossoming with that hefty, chewy tang found in dark molasses and elegant port-like on the finish.

Feeling a bit overwhelmed with the heavier courses, I ordered some roasted fennel with caramelized shallots. Incredibly tender and sweet, the licorice hints in the fennel brought out the mineral tones in the Tempranillo but emphasized the smokiness of the Syrah. Getting full and winding down, there was a bit of wine left and room for one last course.

The Zuzu tortilla is legendary in my eyes. Well, they call it a tortilla but I look at it more as a miniature potato soufflé as it is prepared and served in a miniature cast-iron skillet, all puffed up and hot with a side of aïoli. The perfectly carb-nature of this last dish perfectly accentuated the last remaining glasses of red wine, a few rapturous tastes of both the Syrah and Tempranillo that were left…

Zuzu ~ 829 Main Street ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-224-8555

I had indicated in the Pinot Paradise blog that the event was held at Testarossa. But I made sure to arrive at the event early enough to do a little tasting at the host winery. The winery setting is exceptionally stunning as it was an historical Noviate and still houses many of the retired Brothers on the property.

"Testarossa" literally means "red head" was so named after after founder Rob Jensen, a nickname he acquired while a university student in Italy. He and his wife, Diana, began winemaking in their garage but by 1993, had been fully bitten by the bug and purchased the Novitiate estate to showcase their finely made juice.

The entrance is a long, stone walkway which houses many historical photographs of the Brothers and the legacy contained within. The tasting room is large, inviting, and comfortable. The pouring staff is generous and informed, helping with questions about the various I had about vineyards. Testarossa specializes in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah which is a bit of an oddity and a delight in the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-heavy world.

2003 Castello Chardonnay – 100% malo from Central Coast vineyards. Tropical fruit followed by darker, more elegant apricot aromas. Creamy entry with a mid-palate of oak and the classical, buttery finish. $26.00

2003 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay – Elder Series – From the Santa Maria Valley. Pineapple and citrus bouquet with a lively, tangy entry. A layered mid-palate shows both hints of oak and honey. $36.00

2002 Palazzio Pinot Noir – A blend of fruit from Bien Nacido, Brosseau, Clos Pepe, Garys’, Michaud, Pisoni, Rosella’s, Sleepy Hollow, and Sonatera vineyards. Dark strawberry and raspberry tones with brown spicy aromas. Mineral entry with a tangy mid-palate and a bright finish. $32.00

2003 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir – Dark raspberry and elegant, layered spice on the nose with hints of tobacco. A vegetal center complements the fruit with a long, finish of BBQ and fat. $54.00

2001 Gary’s Pinot Noir – (Member’s only, not available for purchase) Intensely dark berry and opulent spice. Some minerals on the entry which transforms to an herby mid-palate and a long, earthy, morel finish. $54.00

2002 Ferrari Club Syrah – Made in affiliation with the Ferrari Club of America, the label shows the famous Italian sportscar. Incredible fruit-forward dark berry that subsides to produce cinnamon and clove bouquet. Astonishing bright cherry entry that gives was to an earthy, mushroom middle. Even acids and layered textures provide a bright finish. $25.00

Testarossa Vineyards ~ 300-A College Avenue ~ Los Gatos ~ CA ~ 95030 ~ 408-354-6150