Ultimate California Wine Blog

This posting is working a bit backwards in time — my Pinot weekend was spent exploring the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains, meeting some amazing winemakers and winery owners, and a Pinot-tasting festival. All this culminated at an amazing dinner at Manresa restaurant in Los Gatos.

In attendance were Max, Anders, Maria, Xiaopei, Andrew, Lester, Ya Yoi, Jeff, Marcia, Ron, and your’s truly. We ate some amazing food and drank some amazing wine, as follows:

Red Beet and Olive Madeleine

1996 Chateau Woltner Chardonnay, Titus – Classic Burgundian that has aged nicely to show rich golden colors. Crisp, mineral entry with perfectly balanced oak, hints of coconut, and a whisper of citrus.

Citrus Salad in a Jasmine Tea Gelée. Tasted with the Nuits, stunning secondary notes of caraway appeared.

1997 Nuits de George, Les Saint Georges, Premier Cru, Domaine Henri Go – Earthy mushroomy with some hints of cherry and a tease of minerality. Heavier sulpher aromas provided some roughness which made the wine generally hot.

Salt Cod Fritter with Truffled Honey (sorry, forgot the picture!)

1999 Beaune Clos de la Mousse, Premier Cru, Domaine Henri Gouges – Great, opulent perfume with dark spice that is layered and even. Very heady and once upon, produces tremendous strawberry.

Strawberry Gazpacho with Almond Yogurt, Marcona Almonds, and Olive Oil

1996 Kent Rasmussen, Carneros – Dark cherry in bouquet and mouth entry. Some medicinal (sulpher) back notes and cocoa in the mid-palate. Secondary characteristics include tobacco, gelatin, and mint.

Oyster and Uni scented with Yuzu

2000 Brogan Cellars, Russian River, Lone Redwood Ranch – Intensely fruit forward with cherry and cola notes. Sharp entry with bright acids and bright spice. No finish to speak of with diminishing fruit.

Sashimi of Fluke with Olive Oil, Chives, and Dried Smoked Fish Flakes

2000 Ken Wright, Shea Vineyards, Willamette – Hot cola and cherry with spice providing back-up tones. Early maturity with an even, spicy entry. Worked very well with the Sashimi due to the smokiness in the fish’s preparation.

Torchon of Foie Gras with Asparagus spears, Asparagus puree, and Asian Pear

2001 Brick House, Willamette – Hot barnyard bouquet which gives way to cherry. Extremely tangy entry that showed all the elements of greatness but not enough follow-up. Feels well-balanced in the mouth, but no anticipated explosion. Almost Burgundian in feel.

Planked-cooked Black Cod with Crab and cured Salmon Roe

2001 Ryan, Pisoni Vineyards – Jammy with dark berry and black cherry. Extremely bright, engaging entry with levels of varied spices. Overall, a very elegant, amazing offering, despite the faintest hint of medicine on the end.

Shredded Veal Cheeks with Sunchoke Ravioli, Veal Sweetbread, and Parsnip Milk Foam

2002 Tantara, Gary’s Vineyard – Spice immediately presents itself and gives way to sweet aromas of cherry. Dark, musky entry that is fruit-forward blossoming into floral, perfume, and exotic incense.

Roast Farm Chicken with Roast Vegetables - One of the two dishes where it is shown in full presentation before being plated.

2002 Capiaux, Gary’s Vineyard – Intensely layered spices that is surprisingly clean. Dark boysenberry, black raspberry, and blackberry tones that is perfectly balanced with a long, silky finish.

1990 Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru, Estournelles St. Jacques, Frederick Esmonin – Lester pulled this out near the end and I’m afraid it did it a disservice as we were ramping up the fruit and lessening the age of the offerings. After the opulent, jammy wines we had been tasting, I found this barnyard-stinky with reduced tar and concentrated gaminess. Dry mid-palate that was thin and full of mineral notes.

Roast Leg of Lamb with Chickpea Frittes and house-made Marguez Sausage

2002 Dehlinger, Russian River – Hot, dark Bing cherry that is sweet and round. Another with Burgundian tones of complexity with a dried orange peel finish.

2002 Longfellow, Sonoma Coast – While a tad green on initial sniff, this wine opened up to an offering that might be hard-pressed to pinpoint as Pinot. Spicy with BBQ meat and high toast oak. Lots of wood with exotic, incense aromas layered with chocolate. The tart entry blossomed with a sweet finish of spice that kept going.

NV Broadbent Port, Lot #1 – Dark, thick, sweet. Ron ordered to go with the desserts:
Honey Tuile with selection of Banana, Mango, and Litchi Gelato

Bittersweet Chocolate Souflée with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

The dinner was finished with another round of Pate de Fruits and Madeleines, however this time they were Blood Orange and Chocolate, respectively. Again, no pictures.

All-in-all, a love time was had by all!

Flora Springs winery is located on Highway 29 and is almost easy to miss for while most winery tasting rooms on the main drag have large, stand-alone facilities, Flora Springs sits nestled amongst a cluster of buildings that shares a parking lot with Calistoga Roastery (a coffee house) and Dean & Deluca. A vine-covered building might almost be lost, but is well worth looking for!

This is another one of those wineries that I have placed in a number of categories for while the physical tasting room lies in St. Helena appellation, the vineyards for the wines are located in St. Helena, Rutherford, and Oakville appellations.

The tasting room itself is large and inviting with an center-staged tasting bar-in-the-round placed dead center in the room. This makes for lots of comfortable space as well as a generally warm and inviting atmosphere. There are also a number of literary and cinematic allusions which I greatly admire; the Lavender Hill Vineyards for their Pinot was named after the Alec Guinness movie The Lavender Hill Mob, a one-sheet is located on an adjacent wall, and the Toad Hall Cellars Club references the Wind in the Willows, the owner’s wife’s favorite book (there are a number of toad references around the tasting room as well).

A note about the walls – along with movie posters, they are covered with these amazing caricatures of the family set next to photographs of the person so depicted. Also of note is a wine list far more extensive than my tasting allowed; additional wines include several Pinots, a variety of vineyard-specific Cabernets, a Sangiovese.

2002 Soliloquey – I’m not sure why this wine has a special name. It is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc and maybe it is because it comes from the Sauvignon Musque clone. It shows the classic green apple/grass combination in its bouquet that is perfumey and bright which enters the mouth with a warm, creamy sensation that finishes crisp and engaging. $18.00

2003 Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay – I was surprised to be told this Chardonnay saw no malo for there is a hint of butter and vanilla on the nose. The entry is lively with tropical fruits dominated with pineapple tones that is a touch sweet with balance and body. $22.00

2001 Pinot, Lavender Hill Vineyards – Oxidized.

2000 Poggio Del Papa – 75% Sangiovese, 16% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. An interesting blend that shows the dark, plummy, jammy fruit of the Merlot with cherry aromas and some oak in the beginning. The Sangiovese brings acidity to the forefront, but in an even, pleasing fashion. $30.00

2002 Napa Valley Merlot – A lighter, softer Merlot than I have been drinking lately. Oak and fruit are balanced in the aroma, with neither overpowering the other. Some mineral tones in the mid-palate, it demonstrates a fresh, cherry finish that is easy going down. $24.00

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – 100% Cabernet immediately shows dark, chocolate-covered cherry aromas with hints of cedar and oak. The cherry is coupled with elements of cassis in the mouth with some mineral qualities mid-way. A bit dry on the finish is a light touch. $30.00

2001 Trilogy – 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec. The faintest of green bell pepper under incredibly plummy, dark fruit aromas. Balanced tannins reveals a touch of minerality in the mid-palate but blossoms in a finish that reveals cherry. $60.00

Flora Springs ~ 677 S. St. Helena Highway ~ St. Helena ~ 800-913-1118

Today starts yet another new category for your consideration. Along with Mass Tastings, I intended to include Restaurant Tastings this very weekend, when a very special Pinot-themed meal will be held and subsequently blogged. But another Restaurant Tasting presented itself out of the blue this evening  and it was too special and extraordinary to not share, for tonight I dined at Sub Rosa, the ultimate in virtual dining and tasting.

That’s right, I said virtual. Invited by Mike Sherwood and Linda Lausmann, I entered through the portals of the Sub Rosa’s front page to be transformed… Wait, let me explain something that makes this all-the-more-enticing for one such as me; Sub-rosa is actually defined as Designed to be secret or confidential; secretive; private. It is a phrase oft-found within various alchemical texts and is well known amongst secret societies. I could explain more, but that would be breaking oaths taken long ago … whilst wearing hooded robes in rooms laden with the thick smoke of exotic incense and flickering candles…

So what is the restaurant all about, you ask? It is an experience to be had in private or with friends, late at night or early in the morning, whether hungry or recently sated. You start on the web, but finish in your own imagination. In truth, the restaurant has a pleasing décor with a subtle, soothing dusty sage wallpaper. The artwork entices and teases. And there is a charming selection of music to accompany the dining experience. I started my meal with a lovely Walla Walla Sweet Onion Tart with Balsamic Vinegar which had a perfectly flaky crust. The sweetness of the onions contrasted with well with the delightful tang of the Balsamic. I accompanied this starter with a 2002 Nigl Gruner Veltliner – Senftenburg/Kremstal from Austria. Which provided the perfect hint of sweetness in its green apple entry and balanced finish.

I then decided to move on to their Braised Beef Short Ribs with Oven Roasted Root Vegetables. This seemed the perfect choice as Sub Rosa’s extensive wine list is riddled heavily with Pinot Noir. I can only suspect that these short ribs were braised the day before as the incredible tenderness accomplished can only be obtained with slow, deliberate braising and a day’s rest. With this hearty dish, I tried the 1999 Argyle Spirit House from the Willamette Valley which was just substantial enough to complement the ribs. The wine was opulent with notes of cherry and dark berry with lovely, silky spicy finish.

Being too full for a plated dessert, I opted for a "stickie" wine to finish my luxurious meal. The ’92 Fonseca Port was the perfect finish however I might recommend the addition of a cheese plate to the menu as an accompaniment to the great wines. I can only imagine what local artisinal cheeses are available in the vicinity. I will go back often to sample the changing menu. I am charmed and enchanted and, as Rumi said, "In the driest whitest stretch of pain’s infinite desert, I lost my sanity and found this rose."

Chimney Rock is one of the many wineries along the Silverado Trail which lies within the famed Stags Leap District. For Chimney Rock, not only does the winery sit within the appellation, but all 112 vineyard acres which make up their wine is Stags Leap as well. Initially, this would fill me with some trepidation, knowing my tepid reaction to Stags Leap appellation wines in general. Fortunately, Chimney Rock proved me wrong.

Here is where I learn about architecture. From the street, the Chimney Rock buildings seem reminiscent of some of the California Missions and I thought the architecture a tad Spanish in that respect. It is stately and elegant and up until a few months ago, was marked by a row of Cyprus trees which have since been removed. Apparently the architecture is not remotely influenced by the California Missions, but (according to their website) inspired by the Cape Dutch. Interesting, isn’t it?
 

The cost for the tasting is $10.00 for five wines but if you want to taste only reds (and a reserve), than the fee is $15.00. Both fees offer a complimentary glass with the tasting. The room has vaulted ceilings and adds an aura of elegance and class. The pouring staff are extremely pleasant, happily describing the wines, the neighborhood, and Napa in general, with no pretense or hard sale. Great wines and a great atmosphere.

2003 Fumé Blanc – 20% French oak and 80% Aluminum. The aluminum surprised me. I am accustomed to stainless steel, but rarely aluminum. I was also told that it was 100% fermented dry. It produced a wine that is a light straw color with clear tropical and apricot notes. $20.00

2003 Rosé of Cabernet Franc – The wine sees 36 hours on its skins and is almost a fluorescent salmon color with aromas of fresh strawberries which surprised me when I perceived green bell pepper on the entry. Crisp and fun with a touch of spice on the end. $16.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – Warm, spicy berry with rich, port-like aromas with some hint of earth through the mostly dark fruit. Smooth entry with a mineral mid-palate and an even, silky finish. $56.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon – Dark berries behind the warm, almost hot, bouquet. Soft, velvety entry blossoms and expands but then dries a bit in the middle with a tinny finish. Just needs time, that’s all. $52.00

2001 Elevage – A blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, with 18% Petite Verdot. Plummy and rich with tones of chocolate and blackberry that don’t deceive the mouth entry. Very bright in tannins with oak and cedar on the finish. $72.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – Dark, dark berry  Great opulent aromas that match the flavors, enhanced by a spicy plumminess. I would still give this wine another dozen-plus years. $100.00

I’m pretty enamored with history and art. Wineries that combine either history or art are an easy mark for my affection. Driving up and down the Silverado Trail every day, I glance often at Regusci Winery as their historic buildings have always intrigued me. Apparently part of the Ghost Winery trails, there is a building that lies back off the road, nestled behind some olive tress that was constructed in the 1878.

It was a gravity-method building that had been constructed and is thankfully one that is still standing to this day. It was in 1932 that Gaetano Regusci purchased the estate and along with grapes, also raised cattle and pigs to supplement the family’s income. The family continued to farm grapes, but it was Gaetano’s grandson, Jim, who re-established the estate as a winery.

Today, the historic building still greets visitors, as does several of the winery dogs including Scrappy, an accommodating Golden Lab who guards the parking lot. The tasting room is expansive and bright with natural light. The crew working the pouring counter are amiable, fun-loving, and informative. While there is a limited number of wines to taste, all are of exceptional quality.

2003 Chardonnay, Napa Valley – Classic citrus and tropical fruit bouquet with a crisp entry and balanced, even buttery mid-palate. Creamy vanilla finish. $28.00

2001 Regusci Estate Merlot – Some hints of green bell pepper but segues into dark, plummy, black raspberry. Vanilla, cherry and complex spices characteristics in the mouth feel with a bright, engaging finish. $40.00

2002 Regusci Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – Ultra ripe, port-like entry with subtle overtones of chocolate, boysenberry and other dark berries, and a touch of toasted vanilla. A complex, cherry finish that is rich and heady. $48.00

2002 Regusci Angelo’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This is a wine from the Stags Leap District which (thankfully for me), does not have those disdainful SLD characteristics I seem to continually experience; dirty, earthy, green bell pepper. The antithesis of this lies in this reserve offering. Fruit forward bouquet that includes dark berries as well as layered, complex tones of toffee and caramel. It enters the mouth with toasty, rugged qualities that include tobacco and leather, but heighten with dark cherry and more toffee on the finish. $95.00