Ultimate California Wine Blog

Dry Creek Vineyard was actually my very first stop in the acclaimed Dry Creek appellation. I had recently enjoyed a glass of their Fumé Blanc at a dinner and looked forward to tasting their whole line-up.

Arriving at the building, one is immediately drawn not only to the vine-covered rustic beauty, but also the leaded-glass sailboat motif which is repeated on most of the wine labels. Founder David S. Stare is an impassioned sailor and that love of sailing is evident throughout the estate.

The tasting room has a number of various model sailboats on display adjacent to the tasting bar. The staff were exceptionally pleasant and accommodating — learning that it was my first time in the area, several immediately pulled out local maps, offering recommendations, and making sure I would come back another time.

2004 Dry Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg – Clear and almost colorless, lemon predominates the aromas but subsides to produce hints of lime and grapefruit. Clean, balanced acidity with a tantalizing, crisp finish. $10.00

2003 Fumé Blanc – This is their flagship wine at 30,000 cases. Intensely clean and easy-drinking, this wine is a welcome respite to heavy chardonnays and overly sweet German wanna-be’s. Classic citrus with a creamy undercurrent thins a bit to show some minerality. $13.00

2002 Chardonnay – A 100% malo with nine months on both French and American oak, this is another easy-drinking, classically styled wine. Creamy with citrus hints of lemon and grapefruit, a mineral mid-palate shows surprising melon sweetness on the finish. $16.00

2003 Chardonnay, Russian River – Coming off the creamy lemon of the previous Chard, the Russian River offering shows decidedly more crisp green apple and brightness. This was being poured from a 350ml and is being sold for $8.25.

2002 Taylor’s Vineyard Chardonnay – Decidedly elegant teasing with both melon and mineral qualities in aroma and taste. Lively entry with a tang that excites. $22.00

2002 Merlot – Surprising aroma of menthol upfront, and then some integrated cinnamon and ripe bell pepper. Moderate fruit seem to fight with green olive flavors in the mouth. Time might help that. $18.00

2002 Heritage Zinfandel – Surprisingly light fruit aromas with green twigs and green bell pepper predominating. Pales on the finish. $15.00

2001 Beeson Ranch Zinfandel – Great fun in discovering chocolate-covered mint and a twiggy earthiness in the aromas. The chocolate re-appeared in the mouth but with a more concentrated flavor, pairing itself with dark cherries. Chewy and opulent, the finish showed more of the classic Dry Creek dustiness. $30.00

2002 Old Vine Zin – From 80 to 100 year-old vines, this is not slated to be released until August. Port-like jammy aromas produce velvety mint. Mint and dark cocoa surprise in the mouth with a dry finish behind the dark bramblefruit. $21.00

2001 Petite Sirah – Intensely dark purple with garnet tinges on the edge. Supple candy-shop aromas with layering of dark menthol and dried twigs and flowers. Jammy spice enters the mouth and the tannins overpower just a bit on the end. $19.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – Green olive and dried lavender marry with the subtle brett qualities in the nose. A soft, Merlot-like fruit entry heightens with an exciting, spicy finish. $19.00

2000 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – Well-integrated green bell pepper and dried twig/floral qualities. A hint of brett on the back of the nose but all balanced. Soft entry does not disappoint as all flavors are even and complementary. $35.00

1999 Endeavor Cabernet – Aromas of jammy black brambleberry behind sweetish cocoa. Stunning layers of elegant dustiness with complex oak and balanced fruit. $55.00

Dry Creek Vineyard ~ 3770 Lambert Bridge Road ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 800-864-9463

Wandering around the Dry Creek appellation for the first time was quite illuminating with its stunning, low-rolling hills of luscious vineyards, hidden enclaves of wineries, and enchantingly kind locals. Having stumbled on both large and mid-sized wineries in Dry Creek, it was certainly a surprise to happen upon a small, precariously placed roadside sign with nothing other than a name and a phone number: Amphora Winery.

Hardly grandiose or inviting, and never being one to pass up an adventure, I turned down the long, unpaved road which lead I knew not where… Along the way, I was greeted by some workmen in the field and a dog who was determined to take a bite out of my car.

Persevering, I stumbled onto a mishmash of buildings, mostly old barn structures and seemingly abandoned cars. A small sign indicated I was in the right place, however it was questionable if I was at a storage facility or an actual tasting room.

Walking into the nearest barn, I found owner/winemaker Rick Hutchinson holding court in a barrel storage room, thief in hand, dispensing futures tastings and great jocularity. It seems I had actually found the tasting room – or at least one of the two tasting rooms, both barrel storage facilities. The formal "tasting room" is actually a few picnic tables seated outside, behind the big barn. From there, Rick talks about his history, his love of pottery (hence the name of his winery) and the actual amphorae he throws on his potter’s wheel.

During the brief time I was able to speak with Rick, in between his single-handedly hosting upwards of twenty guests, he spoke of the pride in which his wine is made: 90% of it is foot-crushed entirely with only the feet of women. He explained that it takes over 200 women each harvest to assist in these endeavors, but there is never a lack of willing muliebrity for the job (I even offered my own feet, but from the looks of the pictures which cover the walls, I am already twenty years too old.) Does it make a difference in the taste of the wine? Obviously only you can tell for yourself, but I’d like to believe I could taste the great pulchritude in the wine.

Futures – all with March, 2006 release dates, priced determined based on quantities purchased:

2004 Merlot, Mounts Vineyard – Easy, berry, opulent spice.

2004 Syrah, Mounts Vineyard – Perfumey and inky purple. Already smooth and accessible.

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Jacob’s Ridge – Fruity with cassis and black berry. Some hints of cocoa and dark chocolate.

2004 Petite Sirah, Mounts Vineyard – Astonishing aroma of dried fruit and dried floral which followed into the mouth entry.

2004 Zinfandel Port – Thick and enticing, spicy dark berry is already very smooth and approachable.

Current Release Wines:

2003 Zinfandel, Mounts Vineyard – Very intense and elegant dried floral aromas. Jammy, dark berry fruit with hints of black pepper on the finish. $24.00

2003 Syrah, Mounts Vineyard – Inky dark plum color with caramelized plum aroma and flavors. Teasings of blackberry with balanced dried flowers in the forefront and hints of menthol on the finish. $30.00

2003 Petite Sirah, Mounts Vineyard – Purple in color with dusty lavender and heather tones behind the chocolate-driven fruit. Chewy tannins with dried fruit filling the mouth. $30.00

Amphora Winery ~ 5540 West Dry Creek Road ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 707-431-0258

Bob Broman has been making wine for some very respectable wineries the likes of which include St. Supery, Guenoc, and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars for over three decades.  It is no wonder, then, that he would get the itch to put the Broman name on a bottle of his very own making, now known as Broman Cellars.

To further that dream, Bob Broman started making his own Cabernet in 1994, just over 150 cases… Now, almost a decade later, he and his wife, Deborah Russell Broman, have purchased a little over eleven acres on Deer Park Road, just on the edge of the Howell Mountain appellation. Here, along with Deborah’s daughter, Lisa Augustine, this family endeavor is literally starting from the ground up. Having purchased a home which doubles as their office, ground is being dug out for caves, Cabernet vines are being planted and, before we know it, the Broman Winery and Tasting room will be open and available for sales.

Not generally open to the public, I was very honored that the family invited me into their home to meet them and taste their wines. Lisa acts as their sales and family representative. The entire family (down to the dogs and cats) are affable and warm, happy to answer the silliest of questions but also excited at the prospects of folks like me who are intrigued with their product.

Because there is no formal tasting room, the Bromans aren’t exactly set up for visitors, but might consider an occasional tour, depending on their busy schedule. Until then, Tasting on Main in St. Helena is an excellent outlet to purchase and possibly taste one of Broman’s offerings. Regardless, try and find a bottle — this is a label to watch for now and in the future!

2002 Broman Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc – Fermented in small bins of stainless steel, this wine saw no oak but still surprisingly offers some rustic, creamy aromas. Pleased that there was not the traditional grassy bouquet, I was instead tantalized with gooseberry and a fresh apple very reminiscent of the most elegant of French ciders. The tangy entry was almost not there, but expanded into a clean citrus with a bright, easy finish with nary a hint of astringency. $16.00

1999 Broman Napa Valley Cabernet – 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc, with fruit sourced from Howell Mountain Vineyards from what was then Chateau Woltner, this wine predominates with dark cocoa and black cherry aromas. A hint of dustiness in the mid-palate subsides to produce roasted meat and barbecue qualities with its well-balanced tannins and supple finish. $54.00

2000 Broman Napa Valley Cabernet – 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet. Also from the same Chateau Woltner vineyards on Howell Mountain, this intensely complex wine provides rich, dark earthy tones of dark brambleberry and chocolate covered cherries. An overtly vibrant mouth entry backs off to produce soft, easy tannins and a tease of mint at the end. Smooth and easy to consume now but will continue to soften and intensify over the next eight or ten years. $44.00

2001 Broman Napa Valley Cabernet – An as-yet-unreleased wine, this fruit came from the Dr. Crane vineyards behind St. Helena High School. Amazingly smooth with spiced berry and hints of cedar in the nose. A jammy, Merlot-like smoothness with layered flavors of cinnamon, clove, cassis, and mocha. Kept going and going and going…  $48.00

2000 Broman Napa Valley Syrah – 98% Syrah and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Bright, mineral and blueberry aromas showed hints of subdued barbecue, molasses tones. Big, meaty mouth entry continued the subtle spicy qualities with even more integrated spices and hints of toast. $30.00

Broman Cellars ~ 945 Deer Park Road ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5451

Beaulieu Vineyard is one of the few remaining Napa Vallery wineries with history that dates back before Prohibition. In 1900, George de Latour purchased a small estate for his wife, Fernande. George was contracted to produce wine for the church during prohibition and as production amounts grew, so did George’s fortune.

An octagonal building sits behind the original estate is the now the tasting room. It is two levels with the tasting bar on the upper floor and more gift items and rare library wines on the lower level. Finding quality library wines is a rarity so walking downstairs just to peruse is highly advisable.

It is slightly surprising that the amazing history of the estate is not more highly promoted; or perhaps it is in a separate building and I just missed seeing it. The upper level of the tasting room does include a few pictures and set above one of the doorways are some lovely antique wine amphoras. 

2002 Gewurztraminer – .8% residual sugar. Classic grapefruit with clean, crisp citrus. Perfumey but surprisingly sweet with a strident, mineral ending. $13.00

2004 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc – Bright and classically easy to drink with citrus and apple flavors. Simple mouthfeel. $13.00

2003 Carneros Chardonnay – Greenish in color, tropical fruit and butter dominate the aromas but give way to some pear. Vanilla couples with the bright fruit on the entry and brightens on the mid-palate. $18.00

2002 Pinot Noir Vin Gris – Salmon in color with .25% residual sugar. Had a difficult time getting past the overt acidity and harshness. $13.00

2003 Carneros Pinot Noir – Medium in color and intensity, mostly raspberry notes with some chewy earthy qualities finished pale. $18.00

2002 Beauzeau – 66% Zinfandel, 13% Charbono, 6% Sangiovese, 6% Tempranillo, 4% Valeguie, 2% Petite Sirah, and 3% "Other." I adored this wine — Syrah-like in its inkiness, dark spice and dark fruit with hints of berry and aromas that teased with bacon and BBQ. Supple and easy-to-drink with tons of overt fruit. $24.00

2002 Signet Ensemble Red – 71% Syrah, 15% Grenache, and 14% Mourvedre. Another success with inky garnet colors showing dark berry, chocolate, and dried floral qualities. Thick, rich mouthfeel that shows balance and integrity. $25.00

2002 Rutherford Cabernet – Deep garnet tones in color. Aromas of green bell pepper and earthy olive somewhat dismayed. Classic Rutherford appellation qualities of layered mineral, earth, and cassis produced big tannins and that need time to mellow. $25.00

Beaulieu Vineyard ~ 1960 St. Helena Highway ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 800-264-6918

It is true — I have had folks ask me when I would visit the Vatican of the Napa Valley. For what other analogy can be made for Robert Mondavi? Despite the recent upheaval in his corporation, the man himself can only be considered the reigning pope of the California wine industry.

Besides the heritage and history that Robert himself lends to the estate, many come to Mondavi to be introduced to Napa and the production of winemaking. No less than seven different types of tours are available, from the basics of winemaking, to food and wine pairing, to the (I’m told) romantic twilight tour which only takes place at 6:00 on Friday evenings. I decided to forgo any tours for my first visit, which also precluded me from tasting any of the reserve wines on this occasion. It was a quick stop only, intended to look around and taste quickly the standard offerings of the facility.

There are three different tasting rooms and the most public, Le Marche, is a pretty standard one as far as the valley is concerned including gift items and apparel. Surprisingly, the tasting bar is relatively small and each taste is charged for individually at $5.00 for each two-ounce pour. Guests are not allowed to "run up tabs" so if you want to taste through their entire offering (six on the day I was there), each guest would have to pony up $30. Still, if visiting for the first time or wanting to experience all aspects of a winery, Mondavi is a great place to start.

2002 Sauvignon Blanc, Stags Leap District – 100% stainless steel. Surprisingly creamy aroma with integrated tropical fruits. A hint of the classic cat pea appeared in the back of the sinuses and anticipated the sharp mouth entry. The initial acidity quickly subsided and blossomed to a brighter, engaging offering with a long, spiky finish. $23.00

2002 Fumé Blanc – Here’s a story not many people know: Robert Mondavi "invented" the Fumé Blanc in 1962.  What he really did was take the Sauvignon Blanc (which wasn’t very fashionable at the time), and gave it a French twist by hijacking part of the name from the Pouilley-Fumé, putting it in oak, and adding a little Semillon. This current offering was a harsh follow-up to the Sauvignon Blanc I had just tasted, but quickly warmed in showing lemon meringue on the nose (a distinct combination of lively citrus with layered cream notes). The finish was tighter than I would have liked. $17.00

2002 Chardonnay – Seven months is 20% new French oak (Mondavi ONLY ever used French oak!). This wine was very clear with upfront aromas of classic butter and hints of tropical fruit. The initial taste is robust but thins out too quickly with a mineral finish. $18.00

2002 Pinot Noir – A tad murky in its garnet color, the raspberry bouquet revealed itself beside other fresh berries. Mineral tones dominated in the mid-palate and gave way to a thin, metallic finish. $21.00

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Warm dark berry aromas couple with cassis and cocoa. A soft, Merlot-like entry has a bright flavor with even acidity. Quite drinkable. $25.00

2002 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon – Classic Oakville dustiness shows in aromas and flavor. Dried herbs and some twigs predominate in the nose. A bit tannic on the entry, the very dry mid-palate leaves a mineral ending. $40.00

2004 Muscato d’Oro – With 10% residual sugar this simple dessert wine at 8% alcohol could prove way too easy to drink. Sweet orange blossom and honey suckle aromas do not anticipate the slightly effervescent entry. Sweet and orange and floral in tones, an easy summer dessert. $20.00

Robert Mondavi Winery ~ Highway 29 ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 1-888-RMONDAVI (1-888-766-6328)