Ultimate California Wine Blog

My blogging was erratic the past few weeks as I was busy with the Intermediate coursework of the Wine and Spirits Education Trust being taught through Copia. I met some amazing people, both professionals in the industry and wine-devoted amateurs. One special classmate in particular, David Meyer, works at Niebaum-Coppola and invited us all over for a private tasting after we completed our exam last Saturday. I readily accepted the invitation by sheer force of needing to delve further into the mystery of Coppola. Of course I had heard of it and the grandeur that exists, but was it all a movie director’s ability to smokescreen?

I had long known that Francis Ford Coppola purchased what could arguably be one of the most historically important pieces of land in the Napa Valley. After all, it was once home to the famed Inglenook Winery which, before being relegated to the auspices of cheap jug wine, was known for exceptional wines that could rival the French.

Francis Ford has done a fabulous thing in restoring the property in that he has gone above and beyond in creating a true palace and museum. For the non-wine drinker, there is not only history of the property and the wine industry, but also an amazing history of the cinema with antique zoetropes, and an accounting of Coppola’s own film success with movie memorabilia including one of the original Tucker automobiles. Entering the historic chateau, it is impossible to not be impressed with the grand staircase which greats you and I was told that it is known as the "million-dollar staircase" constructed entirely from joinery (no nails) and was finished with 16 grades of sandpaper and tung oil (no varnish).

The gift area is a tad deceptive as there seems to be three or four — or was that five? — of them. I couldn’t help but be reminded of Disneyland with the over-the-top, opulent displays mixed with both expensive, hand-crafted items and the silliest of tschotskes. Fortunately for me, I’ve always had a soft spot in my heart for Disnelyland so I was having fun, buying miniature absinthe glasses…

But before all this glamor and glitz, I came to taste wine and also put aside some misconceptions. I thought I had previously tasted one — maybe two — early Coppola bottlings that I found less than stellar, but now I am not so sure and will willingly eat crow.

2003 Director’s Reserve Chardonnay – 60% malo which spends 60 months in French oak as well as stainless. Unfortunately, the wine had been set-up before our arrival and was overchilled to be able to discern anything notable. $27.00

2004 Director’s Reserve Sauvignon Blanc – 100% stainless steel shows hints of grass and citrus. The mouth-entry produced rich grapefruit which warmed and heightened on the finish. $19.00

Pinot – I didn’t write down the exact label, assuming I would get the information on their website, but it apparently does not exist online. I do know it is a Carneros vineyard grown from clone 667 and 777. It shows a clear, ruby color with an intense fruit, berry bouquet. The mouthfeel is soft and balanced with a decisive, mineral finish. $34.00

2002 Estate Zinfandel – David poured this wine a special favor, indicating it is no longer for sale. Named after Francis Ford’s maternal grandfather, Edizione Pennino, the label was designed after Edizione’s music label. The grapes come from 45-year-old head-pruned vines and shows a wine that is almost purple in color with spicy fruit in the nose. The dark, spicy fruit continued in its flavors with the faintest hints of red bell pepper on the finish. $35.00

2002 Estate Merlot - Hearkening back to their history, David told us that Inglenook was the first to grow Merlot in the valley and the second winery to bottle it. This offering is elegant with blackberries, black raspberries, and black plums mixing with spice to create an enticing apprehension. The flavors mix this dark fruit with hints of dry twigs in an aplomb of elegance. $44.00

2001 Rubicon – Coppola’s flagship wine which came about after Francis Ford himself tasted the epiphany of the now infamous ’41 Inglenook. This vintage is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Layered aromas of dark cassis, cocoa, and the classic "Rutherford dust," displays hints of wood and the barest tease of green bell pepper before showing some brighter cherry. The soft entry was well-balanced and elegant, repeating the cocoa tones with more expressive coffee notes which played well with a continuation of the cherry and cassis. At a full 30 months in French oak, the wine could easily be cellared for another twenty years. $100.00

Niebaum-Coppola Estate Vineyards and Winery ~ 1991 St. Helena Highway ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 800-RUBICON

I have seen the light and been shown the holy of holies — and it is food. I have long been a proponent of food and wine pairing to the extent that I can easily sell more wine when I start to describe the various cuisines that can be paired with this Merlot or that Cabernet Franc. There are a few wineries that do minimal pairings (a bite of cheese here, a handful of nuts there), but Mayo Family Winery has taken it to the wondrously full extreme; full pairings of seven of their wines in a simple sit-down setting, for the shockingly low price of $20.00.

I must add a caveat to this adventure; there is more than one Mayo Family Winery tasting room. The first one I went to is just off the Sonoma Highway in Glen Ellen before I was advised that the Reserve Tasting Room is another four miles up the road, in Kenwood, on the main bustling stretch of the same highway.

Situated on the bottom floor of a two-story building, the tasting room has a bar which runs the length of the room and I imagine that standing-room-only will start to fill up after the eighteen actual tabled seats get filled. Open only three weeks as of this writing, I predict that even finding a place to stand at the bar will soon be impossible…

Fortunately, I went on a quiet Sunday afternoon before the tourist season gets into full swing. A member of the Mayo family, Jen, greeted us and after we sat, explained that their in-house chef, Billy Oliver, has carefully paired each of the seven wines we were about to taste with a small morsel of food which will be served in stages. As she poured the first three wines, Oliver himself appeared very shortly after the glasses were filled with the first plate of three tastes. Jen explained that all the wines are single vineyard designate. The following are the wines plus their individual food pairings:

Goat Cheese and Summer Squash Roulade, paired with
2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Emma’s Vineyard, Napa Valley, ‘Unwooded’ – From the top of the plate, very thinly-mandolined, intensely fresh zucchini were wrapped around Laura Chenel chevre goat cheese. The goat cheese had obviously been whipped to a premium smoothness. The Sauvignon Blanc was very, clear pale; almost colorless. This is a SauvBlanc for food without the usual astringencies or overwhelming acidic tones, this easy-to-drink offering showed flavors of well-integrated dried herbs which expanded in the mouth when paired against the goat cheese. Subtle hints of melon and a whisper of citrus that was smooth and simple. $20.00

Lavender Pistachio-Crusted Prosciutto and Crenshaw Melon Lollipop, paired with
2003 Viognier, Sunny View Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Henry’s Cuvee’ –  This was a slightly aged Viognier as was evident from the rich, sunny yellow color of the wine. The sweet aroma of lemon meringue pie, with its perfect combination of citrus and cream, hinted that an intensely sugary and syrupy sensation was to follow. Conversely, the flavors were darker and richer than anticipated showing astonishing richness and complexity in its spikes of acidity with the long, creamy finish. The lollipop of melon and prosciutto enhanced the creaminess in the wine. The pistachio crust was an inspiration as the hint of toast in the nut provided a more complex layer to the wine. $30.00

Hazelnut-Arugula-Duck Liver Pâté with Strawberry Drizzle, paired with
2003 Pinot Noir, Piner Ranch Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Reserve – Holly’s Block’ – An almost odd, French-style Pinot, the slightly murky, brownish red color displayed a fruit bouquet that seemed already well-aged. The easy, smooth entry showed a balance of acids and tannins with some hints of burnt toast and Moroccan spices that faded to provide an easy complement to the pâté. Oliver’s tease of a strawberry drizzle easily emphasized the strawberry notes in the wine and the earthiness of the pâté seemed to enliven a creamy nutmeg in the back-palate. $45.00

The second flight began with a clearing of the glasses and another plate of three tastes:

Braised Boar Shoulder with Huckleberry and Pecan Jam, paired with
2002 Zinfandel, Ricci Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Reserve – Old Vines’ – A wine showing jammy, dark fruit aromas heightens with spice in the back of the nose. Intense, smooth mouth entry reveals a layered tease of both coffee and ripe dark plum. Again, a mere sample of some fruit incorporated into the boar’s meat brings forth the flavors of caramelized fruit. Hints of brett in the wine excite the gaminess of the meat. $40.00

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Coffee-Marinated Lamb Chop with Coriander-Pablano Chili Oil and Cilantro, paired with
2003 Merlot, Laurent Vineyard, Sonoma Valley, ‘Nellie’s Block’ – Overt and extremely intense aromas of jammy blackberry almost overwhelm, making me question if I wasn’t smelling a late harvest wine. Hints of oak and vanilla began to integrate as I took my first bite of lamb. The perfectly grilled offering was not overwhelmed with spicy oils, as I might have feared, but given just enough to enliven the senses and profoundly expand the blackberry qualities of the wine. Chef Oliver was obvious in his exuberance of this dish and it was easy to see why. The back-palate showed astonishing flavors of cream with herbs and more fruit in the finish. A masterful pairing. $35

Cured Beef Tenderloin with Mushroom Duxelle and Fingerling Potato, paired with
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa River Ranch, Napa Valley, ‘Julie’s Block’ – Dark, dried cranberries and currants coupled with dried herbs surprised me as the wine already presented itself as complex before tasting. This was the second wine of note that appeared to be more balanced and integrated at such an early age. The mushroom duxelle provided an earthy, erotic base that complemented the dark, earthy structure in the wine. The finish showed more elegant, dried herbs. $40.00

The final pairing is dessert, but beforehand, I specifically asked about their Syrah, which was not on the food pairing list, but offered to me for tasting…
2003 Pagel/Nord – Syrah, ‘Lylyann’s Block’ – Almost purple in color with concentrated dark spice and berry, another smooth, easy-to-drink, jammy wine showed hints of dried twigs and herbs with juniper, cassis, and cranberry tones. Long, velvety finish just doesn’t quit. $35.00

Grand Marnier Chocolate Truffle and Stilton Blue Cheese, paired with
2003 Zinfandel Port, Ricci Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Old Vine’ – Jen let out a secret that astounded me and made me fall in love before this wine ever hit my lips; this is a Zinfandel that has been fortified with a brandy. But that is not what astounded me — it was that the brandy they having been using came from the now defunct RMS Alembic distillery which was a longtime favorite of mine before their demise. It seems the Mayo family are one of the few who were able to acquire several barrels of the alembic after RMS shut its doors and if I could, I would buy as much of this Zin Port as I could, knowing that their supply of it is limited as well. Dancing back and forth between the chocolate and Stilton, it was hard for me to determine which was the better pairing. Stilton is a classic favorite for pairing with any über-jammy port and this was no exception, showing layered qualities of creamy caramel and dark cocoa. Alternately, the chocolate truffle, with its hint of orange from the Grand Marnier, provided brighter, pecan-like toasty notes from the Zin. Another inspiration. $30.00/350ml

It was hard to contain the excitement and enjoyment being experienced as it truly WAS an enlightening to have exceptional food paired so well with great wines. Chef Oliver was able to chat with me during my tasting as he and Jen adequately managed the other guests by themselves — my prediction is that they will need to hire a lot more staff as others discover this amazing gem of a tasting room. I specifically asked Chef Oliver about the astonishingly low price and his response was they were not out to gouge people. There is no doubt they could easily double the price and still have it be considered a tremendous bargain. It will be great fun to go back as the seasons change as Chef Oliver also indicated he will be updating the menu often as different ingredients become available. Although I doubt I will wait that long. Call for reservations; open only Thursday through Monday, from 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

Mayo Family Winery Reserve Tasting Room ~ 9200 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5504

Jeffrey Patterson is sitting pretty high atop a mountain in Santa Cruz, at an elevation of 2,000 feet, looking down upon his vineyards which trellis down the mountainside and the valley floor, what is now known as the Silicon Valley. His winery, Mount Eden Vineyards, has a long and illustrious history dating back to 1942 when Martin Ray planted Pinot Noir on Mt. Eden.

Ray had purchased the estate from his neighbor, Paul Masson, and had watched the Masson wine industry take off and clearly was inspired to take it further. Now, sixty-plus years later, Ray is known for having started the first boutique winery in California and his spirit certainly exists in what Jeffrey and his wife, Ellie, are continuing.

After driving up a very treacherous unpaved road, one is greeted by Jeffrey in his working boots walking from his stunningly restored Arts and Crafts home, perfectly appointed with period antiques, a billiards table, and numerous musical instruments. Jeffrey started as the assistant winemaker at Mt. Eden in 1981, becoming the general manager and head winemaker just over a year later. Investing in the business as shareholders, he and Ellie were able to purchase the business outright in 1993.

Explaining the legacy he was able to acquire, this quiet, serenely eloquent man immediately impresses with his passion, accessibility, as well as knowledge of arcane local history. My fortune on that day was that I was visiting with friends, Ron and Marcia Cali, who have a pretty significant family history attributed to Ron’s family having run a poultry and dairy mill. How can one express the joyful serendipity of Jeffrey reminiscing for a valley once known for apricot and prune orchards, pointing out what had been the one landmark he could see from his mountain, the tallest building in the valley being the local mill, and Ron chiming that it had been his family’s business?

Now, almost 25 years later, Jeffrey is obviously proud of the reputation he has built, producing 10,000 cases of a Chardonnay that are known for their cellarability of up to thirty years, some being estate grown and some from purchased grapes. At only 4,000 to 5,000 cases, is his classic, elegant Pinot Noir that rivals the French. He explained that he utilizes the French style of not irrigating his Pinot Noir grapes, believing it provides a stamp of originality to his finished product. Original and impressive, I owe a huge debt of gratitude to Jeffrey for opening up his home and allowing me a glimpse of his castle.

2002 Mt. Eden Estate Chardonnay – Unfiltered and elegantly balanced. Layers and layers of tropical fruit danced with a creamy tease in the aroma. An acidic entry explodes and the heady aroma expands, producing some additional creamy fruit which was reminiscent of guava, papaya, and kiwi. A second smell produced a hint of lime and the heady aroma blossomed driving the long, luxurious finish. $35.00

2001 Mt. Eden Estate Pinot Noir – Immediate aromas of dark berry just barely hide the teasing of the dark spice; clove, cinnamon, and sumac. The spice bouquet seems to heighten the fruit to another level of being completely unctuous in minerality and clean and forthright. The mouth entry is rich and vibrant with a bright mid-palate. The wine shows some reticence, being on the European style of slighter higher acids. Would age exceptionally well. $35.00

Mt. Eden Vineyards ~
22020 Mt. Eden Road ~
Saratoga ~ CA ~ 95070 ~ 888-865-9463

This is my second Wine Blog Wednesday which was instigated by Len Thompson at Lenndevours. This installment is being hosted by the very essence of pinkness, Becks and Posh. (I had to fight the temptation to post this entire entry in a pink font…)  Their selection this month is the much-maligned Rosé and I can certainly attest to having had my share of horrid, over-sweet, mediocre pink wines.

It was with some trepidation that I approached the Rosé theme but back in January, a friend of mine, Marc Reyes, joined the ranks of the cellarcrew at Saintsbury. Barely a week into the job, he stopped by my office with an offering from one of his first assignments; the bottling of a pink wine! I had to express surprise as I have long been a fan of the Saintsbury line of Pinots but had no idea they produced a Vin Gris, the French name given to a Pinot Rosé. I thanked him and added it to the rack of wines waiting for a hot summer day, but little did I realize that a more opportune moment would arise!

After a few days of hail and rain, the sun came out here in Napa and the perfect weather accompanied the opening of my 2004 Saintsbury Vin de Gris of Pinot Noir. With a Vincent van Gogh-like painting as the label, there is a "signature" on the artwork in Vincent’s script claiming Vincent Vin Gris as the artist. Knowing the Saintsbury love of art, I found the label quite appropriate. The color of the wine is decidedly the dark, rich tone of a good quality pink tourmaline gemstone, with salmon colors to the edge. Not too fluorescent at all.

The aroma was a bit of an enigma. Having taken the wine straight from the fridge, its chill was obviously masking any potential smells. Very hard to detect, but ultimately, some faint strawberry began to appear and then an aroma that exists in a freshly washed plum that is just beginning to enter your mouth.

At very well chilled, the mouth entry is decidedly clean and crisp, not the sickly sweet or white zin-like saccharine, sugary sensation many affiliate with Rosés. The distinct flavors were almost as illusive as the aromas, however the strawberry pronounced itself with delicacy and charisma. An insinuation of rose, floral, and lavender qualities appeared on the finish. I was pleasantly surprised, finding the wine balanced and easily quaffable, but at 13.5%, realized I could drink it way too fast for my own good. Slowing down, the wine warmed up and more classic Pinot qualities of fresh fruit came through, but not necessarily in a beneficial manner. I really, really liked this wine and at $10.99 a bottle, I will definitely buy more for summer barbecues. But I will make sure that it is very cold when served.

In a way, this posting is cheating. How? Well, technically speaking, there is no TwoTone Farm. I found no architectural monstrosity of a tasting room; no nubile tasting room attendants anxious to shove another wine club down some unsuspecting tourist’s throat; no bounty of wine-related t-shirts and bar accoutrement with which to decorate my yet-to-be-constructed private wine cellar. But TwoTone Farm IS a legitimate wine and its discovery has become an inspiration.

The inspiration lies in what is referred to as QPR: Quality Price Ratio. In this case, I have been introduced to a very drinkable Napa Valley Cabernet that sells in the $10 range (okay, I believe it was meant to retail for $14.99, but I found it on Wine.com for $9.99). Just as interesting is the wine’s lack of promotion by the producer, Beringer Blass except for a very cool CD of local alternative San Francisco bands entitled TwoTone Farm – napa Valley comes unscrewed. [sic] I was given one of the CDs because Tres Goetting was not only a Winemaker on the project, but also as a performing bass player on the CD in The Errol Previde Quartet.

Tres (at the time working at St. Clement Vineyards), along with winemaker Danielle Cyrot (from Stags’ Leap Winery), created this wine as part of a side project. Young and cutting edge, the entire packaging promotes a screw-cap, trendy fonts, and Gen-X-like dialogue on the labels such as "Not afraid to think outside the cork." I can’t help but wonder if the marketing of this great wine has faltered now that Tres is no longer involved in the project — having moved on to Ladera Vineyards, Cyrot is the name that is being associated with the wine at this time. Looking for the wine could be a struggle, but it is well worth the effort…

2002 TwoTone Farm Cabernet Sauvignon – Immediate nose of oak and berry which expands to fresh cherry. Obvious grape entry in the mouth that surprises to develop into rich and deep flavors. Old-world vanilla flavors dominate in a quality rarely seen in wines this inexpensive. Easy drinking and unpretentious. $9.99