Ultimate California Wine Blog

When driving into Mendocino county, if you stay on Highway 101, Hopland is the first town that shows signs of civilization. Ukiah is the next town on the map, a little less than fifteen miles north of Hopland and while a single-lane, vineyard-flanked narrow passage, it is has a few roadside wineries worth visiting which sit in between the two hamlets. Jepson, on the west side of the road, is worthy of such a visit.

The large, industrial building is set far off the edge of the road, at the end of a dusty, unpaved road. The road belies the number of guests that are apparently expected as a surprisingly large number of parking spots await you — but those could be for the wine-making facilities moreso than for a simple tasting room.

Not badgering the poor bloke behind the counter with too many historical questions, a quick perusal through their website provides some of the more intriguing bits of information about Jepson; they practice sustainable agriculture which is a tremendous plus for me, and they are one of the few wineries I have yet stumbled upon that along with a large array of still wine, also produces a sparkling and a brandy.

2002 Sauvignon Musque – An unusual grape to be sure — a clone of Sauvignon Blanc not often seen as a 100% varietal, their limited 300 case production is fashionably light and easy with integrated aromas of lemon and grapefruit with white melon showing on the mouth entry with expands to a creamy finish. $13.00

2001 Viognier – Very engaging offering with white stone fruit and honey in the nose. A very smooth entry provides honeysuckle, pineapple, and a hint of spice in the mid-palate. A crisp, tangy finish proves quite delightful.

2003 Chateau d’Alicia – With 1.4% residual sugar, I would anticipate this 100% French Colombard to be sweeter than it was. Very pale straw tone, distinct green apple in aromas and flavors. Clean. Very, very clean feeling. $7.00

2001 Carignane – It is always a joy to find wineries bottling this unexpected Rhone varietal as a 100% offering. It was a tad sad then, that I found this wine to be oxidized, quite probably from having been open for more than a day. I could detect some light berry tones just revealing some dried floral qualities. Would love to try a fresh bottle. $14.00

2001 Syrah – Surprisingly dusty in aromas and flavors, this syrah shows earthy sensibilities in its initial aromas. Spicy entry gives way to some smokiness in the mid-palate with dusty cocoa near the end. $20.00

2003 Petite Sirah – Intense combinations of sweet soy sauce and barbecue meat intertwines in its aromas. The flavors open up to show smokiness, integrated behind the richness with a brambleberry finish. $24.00

Viognier Mistel – A non-vintage dessert wine made with 20% brandy, this golden straw essence enters the mouth with bright fruit of pears and honey but shows a finish that is both elegant but redolent with hazelnuts and cream. $18.00

Zinfandel Mistel – Another sweet wine that is orangey in color had a bit of oxidized aromas, with creamy creme brulee flavors and it slight bite on the finish. $18.00

Jepson Winery ~ 10400 South Highway 101 ~ Ukiah ~ CA ~ 95482 ~ 800-516-7342

Smack-dab in the center of Hopland, in what used to be the High School, lies one of Brutocao Cellars tasting rooms. Still trying to map out this region, I may be going out on a limb by my category placement; Sanel Valley. You see, according the Mendocino Winegrowers Alliance, “There are 10 growing regions within Mendocino County. Eight are official
AVAs, while two (Ukiah and Sanel Valleys) have not yet been granted
official AVA status even though they are very significant grape growing
regions that had their first vineyards in the 1800’s.” And if you look at one of their maps, Brutocao’s Hopland TASTING ROOM is the center of Sanel Valley.  Seeing they also have an Anderson Valley tasting room, I have included that as well but I am
honestly not sure where the specific vineyards lie as so indicated on their wines labels and hope that someone will either enlighten me or that I will have an opportunity to visit more
often to learn the region. I also want to add a private perturbance that I had a camera failure for a few of these blogs and lost a dozen or so pictures, this being the first.

One of the extremely charming aspects of Brutocao is its placement in Hopland — as indicated, dead center in the two-lane town. But moreso, is that it is located in what was the Hopland High School adjacent to a bocce ball field. The morning of my visit there was a tournament to decide the summer teams. It seemed all so civilized and lovely. The tasting room also sits in front of The Crushed Grape restaurant so that from the interior of the building, right by the tasting bar, is the opening to the restaurant. The tasting room also hosts the dispensing and tasting of local artisinal olive oil and an especially elegant mural behind the tasting bar. An image of the city of Florence, the Brutocao winged lion logo can be seen in the part of the architectural motifs of the mural. All that, and pretty good wines too…

2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Feliz Vineyards – Aromas of warm melon and lemon peel shows depth and elegance in its accompanying flavors. Slight mineral finish does not interfere. $12.00

2003 Chardonnay, Bliss Vineyard – 100% stainless steel with no ML, this wine showed bright, clean green apple in its bouquet and tone. Citrus on the mid-palate. $15.00

2003 Reserve Chardonnay, Bliss Vineyard, Riserva d’Arento – 100% ML with oak. Similar apple qualities in aromas and flavors as in the previous Chardonnay, but a bit creamier. Rich, melon entry but a surprisingly crisp finish, considering its thick texture. $24.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Feliz Vineyard – Medium-bodied with fresh raspberries and cherry predominating. Clean, easy entry with a thin, mineral mid-palate. $18.00

2001 Merlot, Brutocao Vineyards – Rich raspberry and dark cherry that teases of earthiness. Some thin, herbal tones in the mid-palate, a dusty coffee filled out the finish. $20.00

2001 Merlot, Feliz Vineyard Select – An unfiltered offering, this rustic, earthy wine showed layers of dried twigs and leather with a tease of cherry and a finish of herbs. $25.00

2000 Reserve Merlot, Riserva d’Argento – With 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, a playful interchange between elegant raspberry and cedar, layers of dried herbs and tobacco develop to a redolent finish. $25.00

2003 Zinfandel, Brutocao Vineyards – Dark berry shows immediately in the nose and softens to display sherry-like qualities in the back of the nasal passages. Warm berries fill the mouth but thins a bit to a tinny, herbal finish. $20.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Brutocao Vineyards – Unfiltered. Dark, ripe cherry aromas and hints of green bell pepper show in the nose in a sherry-like essence. Concentrated dried fruit flavors produce a tease of sweetness on the back-palate with a long finish of black cherry. $20.00

2002 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Brutocao Vineyards – Unfiltered. Black loganberries, black raspberries, and black cherries all show alongside layers of dried herbs in its aromas. The dried herbal qualities show again in the mouth entry, alongside dried twigs and a dry, dusty finish that hints at smoke in its even finish. $34.00

Brutocao, Hopland ~ 13500 S. Highway 101 ~ Hopland ~ CA ~ 95449 ~ 707-744-1664
Brutocao, Anderson Valley ~ 7000 Highway 128 ~ Philo ~ CA ~ 95466 ~ 707-895-2152

Blogging Fife Vineyards might prove an interesting exercise. It is not unusual for a winery to produce appellation-specific wines and many of the previously-blogged entries have demonstrated just that fact. Living here in Napa, I have attended a number of food and wine conferences where Karen MacNeil has presented. She is part owner of Fife along with husband, Dennis Fife, and Karen is the namesake for their Redhead Vineyard. It was in this misconception that I thought their Napa location was the one and only until I stumbled on their Mendocino tasting room.

Having gotten lost in Redwood Valley in Mendocino, I stumbled on Fife’s other location, pleased at the opportunity to taste a full line-up of the wines. I first experienced Fife Vineyards in a collective tasting room article I wrote for the Gang of Pour.
Theirs was a stand-out wine amongst a large tasting and I was just as
impressed with the wines tasted at this year’s Rhone Rangers.

The tasting room in Mendocino is through a small garage opening and is quite innocuous as far as tastings room go; a simple counter, surrounded with wine cases and a display of Karen’s book, The Wine Bible. However, it is the view opposite the pouring counter that is so amazing; lake Mendocino lying serenely inviting in its shimmering blueness.

I feel a need to offer a small caveat on my tasting. On this visit to their Redwood Valley tasting room, I was the first visitor on a Sunday morning and as all the bottles were already open AND half-empty, I can only assume they had been opened the previous day. Much has been written about the various preservation techniques on open bottles, but I doubt any of those techniques were utilized in this case as the bulk of the wines I tasted seemed oxidized I know many of these wines (especially the Rhones) to be huge, jammy, spicy, and luscious. Lesson learned: Either visit in the middle of the day or request that fresh bottles be open (I did neither on this occasion, but hope to taste through their line-up again).

2002 Red Head Rosé – Extremely interesting to find a rosé made from a hundred percent Carignane! Clear bright pale cherry red in color and aromas. Crisp entry that is engaging and not overly sweet, with flavors of clean strawberry, cherry, and fresh red fruit. $12.00

2001 Redhead Red – An intriguing blend of Syrah, Charbono, Petite Sirah, Sangiovese, Barbera, Carignane, Zinfandel, and Nebiolo. Unfortunately, I believe this was the beginning of me tasting wines that had been opened for a day (or two?). Slightly cloudy and oxydized, dusty floral notes predominated with a hint of robust fruit that seemed faded. $12.00

2000 Carignane – Again, slightly cloudy with dusty floral aromas. Oxidized $18.50

2001 Zinfandel, Mendocino – Warm cherry with integrated spice. Not $17.00

2002 Zinfandel, Mendocino – Faint hint of hospital aromas. A cherry entry shows medium body with a tease of spice on the mid-palate. Even, tobacco finish. $17.00

2000 Cabernet, Spring Mountain, Napa – Green bell pepper on the nose and then dusty twigs – oxydized. $32.00

2001 Syrah, Mendocino – This visit: oxydized. $20.00

2000 Petite Sirah, Mendocino – This visit: dusty and oxydized. $20.00

Fife Vineyards ~ 3621 Ricetti Lane ~ Redwood Valley ~ CA ~ 95470 ~ 707-485-0323

Guinness McFadden of McFadden Farms had a twinkle in his eye when I met him. There was something that his cherubic face and boyish charm exuded as he explained his 35 years as a farmer in Mendocino. What I didn’t realize at the time I met him, was that he grows far more than grapes.

Grapes are of course the thrust of what we talked about during our brief conversation — he explained that he has been growing and selling his Sauvignon Blanc to Sterling Vineyards and Chardonnay to Navarro for over 35 years and this last year was the first year he decided to make wine himself. The surprise came in providing a link to his site and learning that he is, in fact, also a California Certified Organic Farmer, growing herbs, rice, and garlic on 160 acres.

Guinness has been bitten with the winemaking bug, now showing two lovely white wines, but indicated to me that by Spring of 2006, will be adding a Pinot Noir and a Zinfandel to his line-up. I was fortunate to taste the wines at the Mendocino Wine Affair, as McFadden Farms is not yet open to the public for tasting. His CCO status means that the grapes for his wine was produced through sustainable farming, which is quite admirable, in my opinion.

2004 McFadden Riesling – At 12% alcohol, I did not obtain the exact residual sugar but anticipate it being quite low. Grassy nose with a layer of lemon rind, the mouth feel was clean and simple. Not overtly sweet, but engaging and one I would enjoy trying with some spicy Thai. No price obtained.

2004 McFadden Pinot Gris – A pale straw color, this teases with fresh elegant herbal aromas and a touch of light floral notes. The initial taste is clean and slightly grassy, with a slightly tangy finish of white melon. No price obtained.

McFadden Farms ~ Potter Valley ~ CA ~ 95469 ~ 800-544-8230

Having just spent the weekend learning about Mendocino appellations and wines, it seems odd that my first blog entry should be the last winery I visited. Cole Bailey Vineyards is not forefront in my mind for being the last visit of my trip, but because of the utter and complete charm in the wine and in the owner.

I actually met Bob Anderson the day before, at a mass tasting Mendocino wines at the 7th Annual Mendocino Wine Affair, where I met several dozen winery owners and winemakers. A lot of information gets lost in those events as palate shock sets in and mental overload takes place early on. But I was completely taken with the Sauvignon Blanc he was pouring at the festival and a bit saddened that he was sold out of his Cabernet Sauvignon. Then the artist in me was drawn to his piece of sales media, an elegant 4 1/2-inch square fold-out with Renaissance etchings watermarked behind stylish text with a splash of red here and there invoking a simple line-drawing of both glass and bottle.

It was on the following day, when I stopped in his tasting room in Hopland on my way home, that I discovered the intriguing story behind Sesquipedalian, the name of their wine. "Sesquipedalian" is the term used for one who is given to the use of long and ponderous vernacular. Instead of dumbing down a wine description for the masses, the Andersons instead are "smartening-up for the aficionado." But it is done in a manner so verbose as to be hilarious. Here, for example, is the text found upon the Sauvignon Blanc’s front label:

Pigment-challenged to be sure. But this crisp, fruity white will lure tannin addicts from their mauve-drenched lairs faster than a Francophile dismisses Belgian chocolate. Like a 17th century painting of a bacchanalian feast, you know the kind, where young women in translucent garments reveal heaving pre-silicone nakedness and event the cherubs are amply endowed. You will find it at once satisfying and titillating. Sauvignon Blanc. Sesquipedalian. Blanc. Blanc. You’re morte.

Here lies a winery whose growth I will anxiously watch with great anticipation. I only regret that my descriptions are so pedestrian and less worthy than the wine I tasted:
2004 Sesquipedalian Sauvignon Blanc – Clean aromas of key lime peel and white stone fruit with a whisper of spice. A very crisp entry that blossoms to reveal melon in  luscious hedonism. $18.00

Cole Bailey Vineyards ~ 13275 S. Highway 101 ~ Hopland ~ Ca ~ 95470 ~ 707-744-1230