Ultimate California Wine Blog

It is no surprise that many are entranced with the wine country for its inherent, illusive magical qualities. Is it the mere beverage being produced? The landscape? The architecture? What is it about the wine industry (for it IS an industry!) that promotes an aura of mystique? I suppose it is why I moved here — as a sort of spiritual quest, like Gawain searching for the Grail. I doubt a single piece of the puzzle will be found within the entirety of my blog, as I travel from winery to winery, but in visiting Hanzell, part of what I have been searching for has been found.

Locating Hanzell takes some work. After a side road is taken just outside of downtown Sonoma, a small, one-lane, unpaved road is driven until such time as you are convinced you have gone the wrong way. Then, after a gentle curve and the return of a modicum of pavement, an A-frame building makes itself known; majestic and regal, surrounded by vineyards.

Much of what makes Hanzell so magical is its phoenix-like history. The stunning building that invokes so much mystery was the cause for much trouble and consternation several years ago. Built in 1956 by the original owner, James D. Zellerbach, in 2003 the drains in the production area showed elevated levels of the
chemical TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole). You can see the drains in both the upper and lower section of this picture. In a move that shocked the industry, CEO and President, Jean Arnold, spent hundreds of thousands of dollars researching the problem, limited release on wines that had to potential for taint, and rebuilt the entire production area. What could have been the death knoll to the less stalwart, Arnold refused to give up and in moving forward, has brought Hanzell back with a vengeance.

A visit to Hanzell starts with a vineyard tour with Ben Sessions. He drove me around and showed me what made their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes unique, much having to do with their locale and the cool air flow up from San Pablo bay. Being situated at 850 elevation, their neighbors immediately to the east and to the north are blocked from that cool air flow. Following in Zellerbach’s Burgundian tradition, there is a still a belief in the sense of terroir.

After driving through the vineyards, we walked through the newly constructed caves, where a most astonishing light fixture illuminates the great room. An iron-wrapped barrel with alternate staves removed and hung upside-down, provides shadows and a continuation to the magical sense pervading the property.

An appointment-only winery, the tastings are held in the building that is now only used for storage of new and library wines, next to doors that open up upon an amazing view of the vista below and in plain site of those very drains that caused the winery’s rebirth.

2002 Hanzell Chardonnay – Initial sweet aromas of clean melon, pear, and apple with hints of minerality and warm kiwi. These are coupled in the flavors that excite and expand to show layered lemon zest and a graceful, enticing mouthfeel that teases to a clean, balanced finish. $55.00

2001 Hanzel Pinot Noir – Astounding ‘wow’ factor with dark, elegant berry playing alongside dusty, smooth mineral qualities. Dark, musky wild strawberries couples with textured, elegant leather and subtle spice in the mid-palate. One of the most Burgundian of California Pinots I have tasted, an earthy depth proves exceptional quality and ageability. $85.00

Hanzell Vineyards ~ 18596 Lomita Avenue ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~ 707-996-3860

Parry Cellars have branded themselves the smallest single vineyard in the Napa Valley. I’m not sure of the actual size of this Cabernet vineyard, located on the Silverado Trail, just north of St. Helena, but the three tons of grapes they harvested only produced 190 cases of much sought-after wine.

There is another aspect of Parry wine that is rather special; their winemaker is Andy Schweiger who owns and operates Schweiger Vineyards. Now three vintages into their lineage, one can only hope that there will be growth in the future as the stage is set for yet another exceptional Cabernet producer. No tasting room or facilities available for visiting, but a click through on their website shows a reasonably priced, accessible cab worth investigating.

2001 Parry Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon – Some initial green bell pepper which blows off to show lush, dark blackberry and cassis. A sweet entry displays balance and evolves into a chewier tobacco mid-palate. An easy dark cherry finish completes the overall velvety quality of the wine. $46.00

Parry Cellars ~ 3424 Silverado Trail North ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-967-8160

Continuing in the theme of learning about small production wineries who are members of the St. Helena Viticultural Socity, it is with great pleasure that I met the proprietors of Anomaly Vineyards. I have to admit to cheating a bit on their pictures as the ones I took of them personally were too blurry and, sadly, their facilities are not open to the public. But this is a wine worth looking for and I was especially charmed to meet Linda, who is also a women wine blogger.

I did not determine WHY they have named their winery Anomoly and intend on further investigation. At this time, this a wine that is only available through some of the finer restaurants (like French Laundry) and to those on the Anomaly mailing list. At a mere 500 cases produced, this is a wine that doesn’t last very long.

2002 Anomaly Cabernet Sauvignon – Herb and green bell pepper notes up front in the nose with a bright cherry entry that teases with its petulance. Depth in its longevity, showing cedar and cinnamon on the finish. No price as none are available for sale.

Anomaly Vineyards ~ P.O. Box 741 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-967-8448

Salvestrin Winery is yet another I discovered at the St. Helena Viticultural Society’s Ultimate Open House. The Salvestrins are part of the long lineage of Napa pioneers who began farming in the 1930s. Up until 1994, the Salvestrins farmed and sold their grapes to the likes of Freemark Abbey, Rombauer, and others.

When I met Rich and Shannon Salvestrin, I learned that although their family has been growing grapes for over seventy years, it was in 1994 that they broke ground to construct their own winery and began producing wine with their very own grapes. With 26 acres owned and farmed, they are not producing huge amounts of wine, but what is being made shows great promise in a future I will enjoy following.

2001 Salvestrin Winery Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – Clean, bright aromas of cherry and cedar. The dry mid-palate shows heightened tannins that blossom with integrated mineral tones and a green bell pepper finish. $45.00

2003 Salvestrin Estate Sangiovese – Only 100 cases were produced. Intense, classic cherry opening with heady cherry bouquet. Clean, tight acids tantalize and tease. Pity to have found out it was already sold out.

Salvestrin Winery ~ 397 Main Street ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5105

Bisou means "kiss" in French. It is also home to the only wine produced by James Johnson Vineyards, a Cabernet Sauvignon of exceptional quality which was introduced to me at the St. Helena Open House promoting the St. Helena Viticultural Society. The open house was a lovely afternoon, held the day after the Napa Valley Auction. The whole event proved great insight for me in learning about small producers like the Johnsons.

James himself was there, pouring his three vintages. He delights in talking about his three children, Paige, Ryan, and Ashely. He has three acres of Cabernet grapes and has named an acre each after his children. Those three acres, located in St. Helena, along with 5 1/2 acres in Lodi comprise their entire business; producing a total of 400 cases of each of the lovely wines I tasted:

2000 Bisou Home Cabernet Sauvignon – (Their first offering!) Purple tones with a fabulous integration in oak and fruit. Elegant at 14.2% alcohol. Opulent dark nose of fruit with an elegant entry including cassis and vanilla. $55.00

2001 Bisou Home Cabernet Sauvignon – Intense aromas of black plum and juicy berry. Smooth and complex with a balanced entry showing cedar, cherry, and a velvety, bright finish. $60.00

2002 Bisou Cabernet Sauvignon – From an as-yet, unreleased sample, this wine showed dark, jammy liqueur in a concentrated form. Still presenting rich fruit and heightened vanilla and oak, time will tame this fruit bomb. I am looking forward to it!

James Johnson Vineyards ~ 1030 Main Street #216 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-967-0656