Ultimate California Wine Blog

I waited a long time to blog Ladera. Why? Well, for starters, this is where I work. Also, I wanted it to be #93 for entirely personal reasons as the number 93 is very special to me. The estate is between 1,500 and 1,800 elevation on Howell Mountain. Historically, it was started by two Frenchmen, Jean Brun and Jean Chaix in the 1880s, when they planted Zinfandel on Howell Mountain. Several years into hauling the grapes down into the valley for processing, they built their three-story, gravity method winery.

The winery stayed in business up until Prohibition when, like so many others, it shut down. The business passed through a number of hands in the 1950s and 1960s, but was ultimately acquired by Frederique and Francoise DeWavrin in 1970s. They re-named the estate Chateau Woltner and, for some reason which no one has yet been able to explain, planted Chardonnay in an appellation known for big, opulent red wines. For the twenty-five-some-odd years that Chateau Woltner was in business, the DeWavrins produced five vineyard-specific Chardonnays in the Burgundian style. However, at this point in the building’s life, it had fallen into such disrepair that it had long since ceased to be used as a wine-making facility.

In 2000, the estate was purchased by Patrick and Anne Stotesbery who not only restored the building to its intended use, but also replanted the now phylloxera-diseased Chardonnay with Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. They had started Ladera (which means hillside in Spanish), in 1998 with the purchase of the Lone Canyon vineyard which is on the flanks of Mt. Veeder at elevation 1,100.

The Stotesberys hired Karen Culler as their winemaker. She is well known for her own label, namely producing Syrah wines. Just last year, Tres Goetting, who also is developing his own label named Tom Cat, joined the family and I think the wines are only getting better. But for me, what’s not to love?

2001 Ladera Lone Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon – Known as "The Cowboy" Cab, this wine is chewy and complex with bright cherry, tobacco, and leather notes both in nose and mouthfeel. $65.00

2002 Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – Known as "The Gentleman" for its softer tannin structure and velvety mouthfeel. Complex layers of roasted fig and blueberry with concentrated spices like cinnamon, clove, and allspice. $65.00

2002 Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – A blend of the two vineyards, once you know the characteristics of the two, it is easy to discern qualities from each; cherry from the Lone Canyon, elegant spice from Howell Mountain… Easy to drink with depth and balance. $35.00

2002 Ladera Malbec – Somewhat of a fluke. This was grown as a blending grape for our Cabs, but the 2002 vintage was so exceptional that the Malbec was not needed. It was also so exceptional as a stand-alone varietal, that it was bottled with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in to round out. Intense dark berry of black raspberry, cherry, and black plum dance with hints of barbecue and soy sauce in a wine that is meaty, like a Syrah, yet velvety and soft in its complexity. My current favorite wine. $38.00

Ladera Vineyards ~ 150 White Cottage Road South ~ Angwin ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 866-523-3728

Matanzas Creek has quite a reputation, but their reputation is for much more than their wine. Over 25 years ago, when founder Sandra MacIver was building her estate, she recalled the love of her grandmother’s gardens. Years later, when building their tasting room, Sandra and husband, Bill, met a landscape architect who planted six different gardens with over 4,500 lavender plants.

As the lavender is harvested in late June or early July, that is the most beautiful time of year to partake in the vast purpleness of Matanzas Creek. When you enter the estate, you not only drive past the vast acreage of lavender bushes, but alongside an amazing fountain which looks as though a single standing stone is balancing a precariously-placed stone lintel.

The tasting room is nestled and barely visible among some large, overgrown trees. There are benches available outside and as this is one of the few wineries on a long stretch through Bennett Valley, makes for a great bicycle stop and rest area.

The tasting room is appropriately bedecked with lavender items for sale, but also the entire aesthetic is in an Arts & Crafts sensibility to surroundings. The only downside of the surroundings in wine tasting, is that the bouquet of lavender permeates the area and makes for smelling wine a tad difficult.

2002 Sauvignon Blanc – Some soft touches of lemon tease at first but crisp, overt citrus presents itself in a full, blossomy mouthfeel. Ever so slightly creamy finish suggests this wine saw a bit of oak $20.00

2002 Chardonnay – Lemon peel and grapefruit with a luxury of cream surprise the nose. Clear pear and melon show in the mid-palate and a touch of fig on the finish exhilarates. $30.00

2002 Merlot – Red garnet in color, dried floral and dried twigs show immediately and then are tempered with a bit of dark plum. Berry and cocoa dance in the mouth with a dusty finish. $30.00

2001 Bennett Valley Merlot – Fruit-concentrated aromas show immediate dark cherry and blackberry with hints of spice. The flavors continue the dark fruit but balances with smoke and a finish of twigs and dried flowers. $60.00

2002 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Dried flowers and rich plum blossom in the nose. Dark, complex berry tones provide a concentrated mouthfeel with a hint of dusty, dried floral on the finish. $35.00

2002 Sonoma Valley Syrah – Extremely vibrant offering. Inky in color with hints of purple on the edge, dark barbecue meat and jammy fruit shows immediately in the nose. Soy sauce, orange peel, and blackberry liqueur variably displays in the flavors, and an accomplished, menthol finish does not disappoint. $25.00

Matanzas Creek ~ 6097 Bennett Valley Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95404 ~ 800-590-6464

When you enter the door at Louis.M.Martini, you are greeted warmly with an immediate offering of a glass of white wine, sometimes a Semillon and sometimes a Folle Blanche. The elegance is evident by the choice of decorating colors; black and red. This is a corporate-owned winery, having been purchased by Gallo several years ago and the entire establishment getting a face lift.

One of the older wineries in the Napa Valley, it is gratifying to know that even now as part of a larger, corporate entity, there are still members of the Martini family involved in the operation of the business. Started by Louis M. Martini in the 1930’s, Michael Martini, his grandson, is the winemaker and helps brand the family’s love into the establishment.

2002 Semillon – Crisp and lively with a clean note of melon in the balanced mouthfeel. A mineral finish that is bright and engaging. $18.00

2000 Barbera, Sun Lake Vineyard – Slightly cloudy in its garnet color. A warm, musky nose shows dark cherries and licorice. The acidic entry continues the cherry qualities with touches of aromatic wood. Smooth and engaging, a thin finish does not diminish. $24.00

2001 Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon – With 3% Merlot. Meaty, earthy tones dominate the aromas with a classically vegetal offering on the back of the nose. Warm up front in its initial taste, dried floral and twigs show in the back. $60.00

2000 Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon – With 5% Petit Verdot. Complex aromas of cassis and dark herbs that dance with dark berry tones. The cassis appears again in the mouth and explodes with opulent, spicy endings. $65.00

1998 Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon – Spicy berry predominates the aromas, but gives way to a hint of green bell pepper. Flavors interchange between black berries and tobacco with a hint of dried herbs on the finish. $75.00

2000 Sonoma Valley Monte Rosso Gnarly Old Vine Zinfandel – From vines that are reputed to be upwards of 120+ years old. Sweet spices present at first and shows a petulance of earthy spice and a lush, warm finish. $35.00

Louis.M.Martini ~ 254 St. Helena Highway ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-968-3361

Beringer is a landmark in the Napa Valley – architecturally it is a well-recognized building and it is a very well-known producer of wines. It is a fabulous location for both first-timers and seasoned professionals as there truly is something for everybody. Their claim of being the oldest continually operating winery in the Napa Valley. The drive up the perfectly-manicured landscaping is awe-inspiring, however one cannot escape the slight Disneyland-like atmosphere of having to go through a reception area where color-coded maps are presented due to the size of the estate.

The map shows pathways to various spots throughout the estate and the different locations where wine can be tasted. There are two different locations for wine tasting; a section of the Old Stone Cellars where "every day drinkers" can tasted (I skipped this area), and the famous Rhine House, where the reserve wines area available for tasting. There are also a number of tours available; both self-guided and more formal guided tours.

The reserve tasting room offers five different tasting options, all of which include three wines; a $15 Signature Series, a $16 Vineyard Showcase, an $8 Taste of Knights Valley, an $8 Anything But Cab, and a $5 Dessert Wine Selection. I did have a distinct advantage of being able to move around all these lists and pick-and-choose, but with 75 different wines being produced at Beringer (15 of which are Cabernet Sauvignon), an entire day of tasting could be devoted to going through their entire book of offerings.

2003 Sbragia Limited Release Chardonnay – 100% malo on 100% sur lees produces an intoxicating intense chardonnay. Layers of dried floral notes play with heady, complicated fruit that is ever so slightly smoky and simultaneously rich. Not yet released.

2002 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir – Candyshop raspberry aromas produced a rather acidic entry. Nice, in an easy-drinking sort of way, mostly bright red fruits and some velvet feel on the finish. $30.00

2001 Bancroft Ranch, Howell Mountain Merlot – With 4% Cabernet Franc, a deep, rich offering that would make one think it was a Cabernet Sauvignon from its intensity. Dark with black fruit and dusty cocoa in the aromas, the mouth entry showed the same darkness and a mid-palate of orange peel. $75.00

2000 Marston Vineyard Syrah – From Spring Mountain, this dark garnet-colored wine was an easy-drinking Syrah showing classic barbecue and rich soy sauce aromas. A leathery entry blossomed to display easy, well-developed spice and fruit. $35.00

2001 Diener Ranch Petite Sirah – From a Clear Lake vineyard, 26 months in oak. Inky purple in color that reveled in soy sauce, barbecue meat, and blackberry liqueur. A dry mid-palate showed higher tannins from youth, but the bright, engaging, and erotically finish anticipates a long, luxurious life. $35.00

1998 Quarry Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – From the Rutherford district, this (like most of their high-cabs), shows amazing up-front fruit that dark and elegant. Some vanilla on the mid-palate and a dustiness of cocoa on the finish makes it quintessential Rutherford. $75.00

1998 State Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – From the Yountville district, jammier than the Quarry and a tad spicier. Still opulent and rich, just a bit rounder in mouthfeel. $75.00

1998 Tre Colline Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – From Howell Mountain, considerably more concentrated than the previous two presented. Rich in roasted fig and smoked spice, velvety to the very end. $75.00

2002 Nightingale – A Botrytis wine from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Dark golden in its honeyed color, it is rich with dark stone fruit and caramel flavors. $35.00/375ml

1998 Late Harvest Johannisberg Riesling – Also Botrytis-made, initial petroleum aromas are classically handled providing an intense candied orange peel and honey flavors. Almost a bit too syrupy in its mouthfeel, this would make an elegant after-dinner drink with cheese. $20.00/375ml

Set off Highway 29, on a back road just south of Yountville, is a very unassuming winery, Havens. I had heard of Havens, but I had never had the opportunity to taste one and was honestly not even sure what they offered. A perusal of many of the wine sites I frequent came up mostly empty. I was intrigued and surprised.

Crouched under some very old, stately oak trees lies a cluster of buildings that make up the tasting room, winery, and quite possibly somebody’s living quarters. It is secluded and peaceful and sets the stage for an adventure.

I wandered in last Saturday and met Peter Robichaud who, now retired, mans the reception area on weekends. Far from a classical tasting room, the small reception area could scarcely hold six or eight people and the service area is a mere sidebar where the wines are poured. Much to his credit, Peter knows how well their intensely rich wines pair well with food and even though I was his only guest at the time, graciously prepared a small cheese plate which certainly enhanced the tasting and the experience. Gracious from beginning to last and a great experience in tasting some amazing wines:

2001 Merlot – 14 months on French oak. Bordeaux-style with 5% Cabernet Franc, this medium-bodied offering shows dark cherry and blackberry tones in the nose, heightened with faint dried heather. Well-integrated and easy to drink, the dusty heather makes for a smooth finish. $24.00

2000 Reserve Merlot – Made with mostly Carneros fruit, this juice spent 22 months in French oak. Initial green bell pepper gives way to lush, dark cherry. Smooth and smoky in the mouth, the balanced anise mid-palate intrigues. $32.00

2001 Bourriquot Red Wine, Napa Valley – 62% Cabernet Franc and 38% Merlot. "Bourriquot" translates to mean "stubborn mule" which is a perfect description of the wine; spicy and complex with roasted meat qualities in its aroma. Swirling provides earthy fruit and a mouth entry that is complex and a bit tannic that will mellow with time. $35.00

2001 Syrah Napa Valley – With 3% Viogner. Intensely dark purple greets with heady soy sauce and dark herbs. A bit tangy upon entry, mellows with a swallow or two. Complex and elegant, the smooth acidity is tantalizing as it keeps going to produce dark chocolate and dried cherries. Balanced and truly amazing. $24.00

2001 Syrah Hudson Vineyard – I thought the previous Syrah was good but this blew my socks off. Cherry and soy sauce on the initial smell darkened to show smoked meat, roasted coffee, and black licorice. Like an intelligent, handsome man, this wine was complicated and juicy and one you want to grab onto and keep. $45.00

2000 Syrah Hudson Vineyard – It just keeps getting better and better with these Syrahs. Blackberry and raspberry liqueur that is poured over rare grilled meat. Tangibly chewy in its layers of flavor, the wine shows balanced minerals in the mid-palate and a sweeter licorice on the end. $45.00

2004 Abarino – Interesting that the tasting of some huge, over-the-top reds is finished with a fine, delicate white wine, but it works extremely well. The Abarino is perfumey with pear and white peach. A pale, clean yellow color shows some tropical fruit in the nose, but not cloyingly so. It teases with sweetness, but the entry is tangy with an exciting, crisp entry.

Havens ~ 2055 Hoffman Lane ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-261-2000