Ultimate California Wine Blog

Koves-Newlan Vineyards and Winery proved to be another one of those delightful surprises that happen now and then when exploring the Napa Valley. It is so easy to get swept up glitz and glamor of the Big Names in Napa and a delightful exploration to chance upon a winery that has been around for 40-some-odd years that may have a tremendous following, but was otherwise unfamiliar to yours truly.

Located on the west side of Highway 29, there is a small frontage road called Solano Avenue. Tourists driving the 29 might even miss the wineries on that side because they lie off the main thoroughfare and actually take some maneuvering to get to. In the case of Koves-Newlan, there is a sign that is relatively visible amongst the vineyards, but even the buildings themselves are nestled amongst some elderly trees, providing shade and protection.

The tasting room is down a small flight of wooden stairs and is more a collection of displays and a small service table, all surrounded by massive layerings of filled barrels. This is a working winery and the tasting room is also the barrel storage area adjacent to the winemaker’s facilities.

On the day of my visit, one of the cellarworkers and aspiring winemaker, Tim Callahan, was manning the guest area. With lively blues as his background, he was informative on the wines and delightful in his presentation. I especially loved the story of the Late Harvest Riesling, but I’m getting ahead of myself…  Briefly, the Newlan Vineyards began in 1967 as many in the industry do; selling grapes to those who turned the agricultural product into world-class wine. Seeing how good their grapes really were, Newlan Winery began making their own wine in 1981. They changed names to Koves-Newlan in 1999 with the addition of the Sato family who owned Koves vineyard (not sure why they didn’t call the winery Sato-Newlan!). Now they are producing their own exceptional wine with their own high-quality grapes.

2002 Chardonnay, Napa Valley – Lean, clean lemon zest. Sweet with ease of taste versus actual sugar. A creamy finish is satisfying. $25.00

2002 Estate Pinot Noir, Napa Valley – Sexy and alluring. This was a wine I was contentedly happy to sit and smell. Dried rose petals and eucalyptus up front blossoms to show the complexity and depth of an expensive Japanese soy sauce and sweet & sour pickles (the kind given at a really good omakase meal). An enticing mineral finish. Adorable, enticing wine! $26.00

2002 Estate Merlot, Napa Valley – Dark cherry and hints of green bell pepper show on first whiff. Soft tannins and easy fruit with a dry mid-palate. $26.00

2001 Zinfandel, Napa Valley – Jammy black plum and blackberry explode in the initial aroma. Taste include integrated spicy dark fruit that teases on the finish with toasted coconut. $25.00

2002 Cabernet Franc – Compressed dried twigs and dried eucalyptus leaves anticipate the dry entry. High tannins punctuate dark fruit in the mid-palate which brightens to show dried floral notes on the finish. $30.00

2002 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Approximately 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Concentrated purple in color with extracted dried leaves and flowers compressed behind dark blackberry. $35.00

2000 Late Harvest White Riesling – I am told there is a secret to this wine. The winemaker who produced it passed away and there are no notes on its production. At 13.8% residual sugar, it is not nearly as syrupy as others I have tasted. Hints of honey dance with orange blossoms in a bright bouquet. Balanced with even acidity, there is a touch of stone fruit and spice on the finish that adds layers of complexity. Very, very enticing wine. $30.00/375ml

NV Pandora’s Port – An extremely unusual port made via the Solera system (a process normally used in the production of fine aged sherries, whereby a modicum of young wine is added to older wine for consistent bottlings). There is a "little bit of everything" in the production of this port and some of the older wines date back to 1985. The name Pandora alludes to the mythical box which was opened and let lose the miseries of the world — except that in the myth, what remained for mankind was Hope. In the case of this wine, it is a lovely tawny color with sensual teases of brown sugar and depth with spice and complexity. Completely engaging and rapturous. $40.00/375ml

Koves-Newlan Vineyards & Winery ~ 5225 Solano Avenue ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 800-500-WINE

I had the mistaken impression that Andy Beckstoffer was the largest land owner of vineyards in the Napa Valley. A recent visit to Laird Family Estate Winery set that misconception to rest. Ken Laird and his wife, Gail, purchased their first piece of land (a prune orchard!) in Calistoga in 1970.

Now, 35 years later, the Lairds own over 2,500 acres of prime vineyard real estate. And for years and years, they only sold their grapes to other wineries. They didn’t actually start making their own wine with all this acquired grape wealth until 1998, when they broke ground to construct an amazing building at the doorway to the Napa Valley at the beginning of the Oak Knoll District.

The story is told that the architect actually had originally developed this complex for Quintessa, who ultimately went with a different design. Several years later, the plans were presented to Ken who modified them for his own needs. It is stunning and I’m sure a tour of the production facilities would show amazing technological feats for while Laird’s personal winery produces around 4,500 cases (only 1% of the grapes he actually grows), his estate acts as a Custom Crush facility for the dozens of other wineries he continues to sell to. But visiting Laird is to to witness the family’s accomplishments and taste their excellent wine:

2004 Cold Creek Ranch Pinot Grigio – Initial bouquet of orange blossom with a hint of white peaches.  A bright, zingy entry produces grapefruit that is smooth and easy to drink. $16.00

2002 Carneros Chardonnay – 100% malo. Ripe, blossomy orange blossoms integrate with honey suckle and vanilla to show intense elegance. A clear, pronounced entry displays darker, more integrated flavors of fig and caramel. $30.00

2001 Red hen Ranch Chardonnay – 100% malo fermented in 75% new French oak. Ripe white stone fruit layers with vanilla that is clear and crips. Butter shows up in the back-palate. $40.00

2001 Cold Creek Ranch Chardonnay, Carneros – 100% malo. Creamy and rich, dark dried apricot with roasted nuts. $40.00

2000 Carneros Merlot – With 10% to 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. Initial aromas of dark cherry and earthy mushrooms with a hint of green bell pepper. Easy and smooth red fruit meet the mouth and expand to show herbal and spicy qualities with keep going. $40.00

2000 Suscol Ranch Merlot – Ripe red berries and plums with darker cassis greet the nose but subside to display hints of darker tobacco. A jammy, spicy mouth entry heightens with loganberry that continues to a long finish which remains a bit tight. $50.00

2000 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Clear garnet in color, bouquet of dark cherry and blackberry show jammy, plummy flavors that enters with spice but layers and integrates with deep earth. $40.00

2000 Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – Ruby colors with brick tones on the edge, dark vanilla and blackberry excites the nose. A smooth, velvety entry is elegant and rich continuing the dark berry and finishing with brown sugar spice. $80.00

Laird Family Estate ~ 5055 Solano Avenue ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-257-0360