Ultimate California Wine Blog

Visiting William Harrison winery proved to be another one of those "Duh!" moments. Several months ago, in discussing the rarity of 100% Cabernet Francs of quality, a mere stranger offered me a well-cellared 1997 William Harrison Cabernet Franc. I was astounded at its depth of fruit and flavor (okay, I was also astounded that someone had I had met in passing would just give away a bottle of wine, too!)

The two-story building sits innocuously behind some of the winery’s vineyards, just off the Silverado Trail. Seemingly low-slung and unassuming compared to the palaces just up trail, the interior boasts considerable history in both a re-Prohibition bottle collection as well as a rather large, figuratively staged taxidermied bear.

Antonio Perelli-Minetti was the progenitor and during its heyday in 1970s, under the moniker of A. Perelli-Minetti & Sons, produced over a million cases of wine. Antonio’s daughter Conchita had a son named William Harrison, whose name is now emblazened upon sign and label.

The bear, by the way, was caught by Harrison on a hunting trip several years ago. I’m not sure what I am more enamored by; the stuffed bear or this historical photographs throughout the tasting room… Then again, the bottle collection is pretty amazing and surprised me by sitting out in the open (thinking of Coppola’s winery where they were carefully set behind glass). There is astonishing history to be found here and a laid-back, easy-going style in telling the stories and welcoming the guests.

2003 Estate Chardonnay – Complex layers of fresh fig, Limoncello, and sweet cream show immediately. The fig is detectable in the initial taste but subsides to demonstrate stone fruit with a light floral finish. I’m not a Chardonnay fan, but I would drink this. $32.00

2001 Estate Cabernet Franc – A wine I would be happy smelling for hours… Layers of dark cherry and ripe cassis toy with integrated spice and a hint of black pepper. The mouthfeel is silky and developed with even tannins. Mocha shows a bit in the mid-palate and blossoms to display touches of blueberry. Hands-down my favorite CabFranc in the industry. $35.00

2001 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – Hugely opulent offering that rivals Cabs at twice the price. Rich dark berry and cherry with hints of tobacco and leather aromas. The mouthfeel is clean and precise, showing dark, roasted red berries combined with a hint of sweet black licorice and a tease of vanilla. Long finish displays craftsmanship and quality. $39.00

2001 Estate Rutherford Red - A blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and 12% Cabernet Franc. Odd that the single varietals prove to be more engaging than their blend. The dark, rustic fruit found in the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are treated to a bit too much earth and show mineral qualities that are out of balance. Considering the quality in the previous offerings, this may have simply been an off bottle. $45.00

William Harrison ~ 1443 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-8310

Shame on me for not posting this one last week as part of my other Livermore adventures. It was the last stop of the day, and the palate was getting a tad weary. But L.V.C. is a winery worth looking for and one I am definitely looking forward to going back to soon.

L.V.C. stands for Livermore Valley Cellars. The funny part is that to find it, one has to drive through an enclave of burgeoning track homes. It is somewhat odd to be driving through construction of brand new single-family homes and then quite suddenly stumble upon cluster of older shacks, barely standing, with kids running around, setting up a lemonade stand, a dog or two, and some seemingly-abandoned trash.

But step inside the tasting room and prepare to be surprised. As a limited production winery, the offerings are limited but engaging. Mostly producing Zinfandel, L.V.C. has an interesting offering of French varietals and blends that… well, let’s just say are quite intriguing. It is obvious they have their tongue firmly planted in cheek and for that I am grateful. Again, I regret my tired palate in these notes. It certainly does not due justice to the quality of the wines and the fact that I want to go back when there is a Petite Sirah being poured:

2001 Livermore – "Not a varietal, but a concept." A white Bordeaux blend of 60% Semillon and 40% Sauvignon. $14.50

2003 Chardonnay, Sblendorio Vineyard – Clean, clear apple toned, so akin to a French Cider or beer as to be misleading, but for me, in a good way. Not too hot, very little (if any) malo. Just crisp fruit and engaging flavors. $14.00

2004 Syrahnade, Syrah Rosé – 88% Syrah, 12% Chardonnay. Lovely, clean offering despite the odd blend. I am becoming more of a fan of the rosé but to have the Syrah grape and Chardonnay grape come together like this could seem scary — it isn’t! $12.00

1999 Alicante Bouschet, Lodi, "Profundo" – Immediate chocolate qualities but flavors that seemed harsh and tinny. Sold out.

2000 Arcanum – A Bordeaux blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon from Thatcher Bay and 48% Merlot from One Oak Vineyard. $23.50

2002 Syrah – Medium color, nice fruity nose. Not huge or chewy or too inky. Very balanced fruit that is easy to drink — and easy to drink a lot of. Cherry and dark plum, some faint whisper of roasted meat and a finish that shows a touch of floral qualities. Sold out.

2002 Livermore Zinfandel – Medium color. This is like a Zinfandel on training wheels, but not in a bad way. For those folks who find Zinfandel too overwhelming a wine due to overt spice or fruit, this would be a great starter. It has all the classic zinfandel flavors and tastes, but simply in a more subtle, almost repressed style. $13.95

2002 Sblendorio Zinfandel – Medium ruby color and a medium-bodied zinfandel. Berry tones that were not overt but simple and easy to drink. Hints of spice on the end. $16.00

2003 Left Behind Zinfandel – "The next Big Ass Zin." Syrah-like nose with bacon and soy sauce. 1/4% residual sugar. 60% DeMayo Zinfandel, 12% Kestrel Ridge, 12% Sblendorio, 12% Syrah, and 4% Chardonnay. Faint, sweet entry from that hint of residual sugar, but blossoms with roasted meat and barbecue sauce. Integrated dark fruit and brown sugar. $17.00

L.V.C. ~ 1508 Wetmore Road ~ Livermore ~ CA ~ 94550 ~ 925-454-9463

I had been waiting to blog Gloria Ferrer. I was waiting because every year the sparkling wine producer holds a large Catalan Festival around the third weekend of July every year. So this is not just a blog of a Spanish-heritage winery, but also of a pretty spectacular event that sells out early every year.

Upon arrival, two large figures loomed above the crowd. There were people inside them that could lift them up and walk around with them, despite the heat of the day. Very, very impressive. A demonstration tent was set-up outside the building where music performances and cooking demos occurred throughout the festival. I saw Flamenco dancers, heard lovely Spanish guitar, and

But it is upstairs, in the main room of the winery where most of the action takes place – the food! A number of fabulous vendors participate in the event; restaurants, bakeries, and stores. Upon your arrival and check-in, each guest is given a handful of color-coded tickets, red for food and yellow for drinks. The various food purveyors have pre-established how much ‘their’ dish is worth (usually two red tickets, although some dishes cost only one ticket to consume).

The food sampled was of exceptional quality, as the restaurants serving and promoting themselves included B-44, Wild Thyme, Destino, and Avance (to name only a few). Some of the food we sampled included cod cakes, roast pork loin with dried figs, classically-prepared sardines, Spanish cheeses, a fascinating and savory version of cassoulet, stuffed peppers, and bacalao.

Of course, one can’t forget Paella, which along with the sparkling and still wine served, was a fabulous offering. The rice had the perfect level of spice from the saffron and delicacy of smoke from the paprika. The seafood was fresh and chicken tender. Those ‘tending bar’ certainly had their hands full as the hundred-plus degree heat certainly warranted the flowing of well-chilled bubbly. However, I was pleased that numerous still red wines were also being served as their Syrah was an especially nice accompaniment to the paella. Overall, a delightful experience:

NV Sonoma Brut – A hint of pear and a touch of toast makes this bubbly clean and easy to drink with both tacos and quail. $20.00

NV Blanc de Blancs – 100% Chardonnay. Slightly yeasty nose which shows a whisper of clean, white fruit. A hint of floral provides a crisp, even mouthfeel. $24.00

NV Blanc de Noir – 92% Pinot Noir, 8% Chardonnay. My personal favorite, a bit more complex with a tease of strawberry and brambleberry. Ever so slightly peachy in color, a creamy entry that blossoms with integrated spice. $18.00

2002 Pinot Noir – Liqueur-like berry in the nose and dark, ebullient berry in the initial taste. Sweeter than anticipated, silky and smooth. $26.00

2002 Syrah – Inky dark red, rich and complex in nose. Very full-bodied mouth feel showing dark blackberry and black plum with a hint of herb and exotic spice. Price unknown.

Gloria Ferrer ~ 23555 Carneros Highway (121) ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 707-996-7256

Socrates Nicholson purchased a small cattle ranch in Sonoma in 1961, thinking it would be a better place to raise his family. Years later, it was daughter, Ramona (along with her husband Deepak Gulrajani) who made the ranch that she had grown up Nicholson Ranch.

I watched the construction of the winery building when it began in 2002 and visited briefly right before it opened. It is an impressive gravity-method winery and on any given day, tours of the facilities are offered. These are hardly formal and are not at set times.

The tour guide is great at relaying the family history and pointing out much of Socrates’ influence. There is a small chapel that was built for Ramona’s christening that can be seen from only a few vantage points on the property. Socrates has also personally constructed a stacked-rock waterfall and a classic outdoor pillar-bedecked amphitheater for performances.

Most impressive on the tour is the great room with a continuation of the Greek-themed pillars and inset stained glass windows that depict the four seasons of a grape’s life. This room, along with much of the winery’s facilities are often utilized for events and weddings. During my first visit, the winery was producing just barely 1,500 cases of wine. On this visit, I was told they are now at 5,000 cases with aspirations towards 10,000 cases.

I will give the winery much credit in its growth. During my first visit, the Pinot I tasted was downright cloudy. Perhaps I received a single questionable glass from a single questionable bottle, but it was exactly that: questionable. The wines have improved greatly and the tasting room is now elegantly decorated and the staff warm and inviting.

2002 Estate Chardonnay – Clean aromas of kiwi and tropical fruit. Mouth feel is creamy with well-integrated stone fruit qualities. $26.00

2004 Ramona Rosé – A rosé of Pinot Noir. Pinky garnet-toned color. Sweet nose of candy apple with a touch of cream. Soft entry that heightens in the mid-palate with a slight tang of cotton candy. A tad hotter in alcohol than anticipated. $18.00

2001 Estate Pinot Noir – Light bodied wine with cherry, strawberry, and some candy. A bit murky (not nearly as cloudy as the first time I tasted the wine two years ago). Thin entry expands a bit to fuller, mostly sweet mineral tones. Strawberry predominates and finishes hot. $24.00

2002 Estate Pinot Noir – Dark ruby color with magenta hue. Great, rich berry nose. Dark candy and some mint. Initial taste of marshmallow which subsides to show layers of strawberry, zinfandel-like pepper, and muted herbs. $30.00

2002 Carneros Syrah – 20 months in French oak with medium toast. Dark, inky color with aromas of bacon, soy sauce, and smoky blueberry. Medium body in taste that was a bit astringent. Long herbal finish smooths out. $25.00

2002 Estate Syrah – Fruit-forward dark berry that is inky black with purple tinge on the edge. A bit more balanced than its predecessor. Behind the jammy fruit is a hint of eucalyptus. Surprisingly less fruit in the mouth than its jammy nose portends. Definitely showing more structure with an even touch of wood in the finish. $40.00

Nicholson Ranch ~
           4200 Napa Road ~
           Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~
           707-938-8822

This was one of the more difficult posting, categorically speaking. I have been driving by Conn Creek‘s facilities every day for almost two years and met a delightful sales rep of theirs at the Premiere Napa Valley tasting. But I did not realize that their sister winery was Villa Mt. Eden so going to Conn Creek also means going to Villa Mt. Eden. Apparently there is also a bit of confusion which I had learned earlier that Villa Mt. Eden is not associated with Mt. Eden Vineyards.

I have actually had the advantage of tasting some older Conn Creek offerings from the late 1980s and early nineties that I found quite intriguing. They have been in business since the early 1970s and produce Bordeaux varietals. The Villa Mt. Eden sister winery branches out a bit more with Zinfandel and Syrah offerings. Their websites indicate two separate winemakers; Mike McGrath for Villa Mt. Eden and Jeff McBride for Conn Creek.

Oddly, there is little information on the Villa Mt. Eden site about its genesis and I am terribly curious about the affiliation and integration between the two wineries. Two winemakers? I imagine that in close quarters, there is much more of a team effort between the two, but I am saddened there is not more information about why there are two separate labels with different winemakers.

Conn Creek Winery
2003 Sauvignon Blanc – From the Tall Trees Vineyard, Napa. Delicate and lovely with lemon peel, a touch of citrus, and clean floral notes. All this adds to a more orange flavor in the mouth that is easy and not astringent. $18.00

2001 Cabernet Franc – 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. I believe this bottle might have been opened the day before as it showed distinct oxidized qualities of dust under the black cherry. $25.00

2001 Merlot – Tight cherry and blueberry just hide a tease of cocoa on the nose. The mouth entry is tight with mostly mineral tones. $25.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – Unexciting offering of cassis and cherry with spice that seems slightly out of balance. I can’t put my finger on it, but there was no integration in the few flavors that I could discern. $25.00

2001 Anthology – 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petite Verdot, and 4% Malbec. Dried cherry and dried floral aromas show at first, but are quickly overwhelmed with hot, medicinal qualities. Not as full-bodied as anticipated, herbal flavors overwhelmed the fruit. $50.00

Villa Mt. Eden Wines
2004 Chardonnay, Grand Reserve, Bien Nacido, Santa Maria Valley – 100% malo shows a classic offering of dark fig and rich melon with buttery tones. Fruit forward in the mouthfeel, a bit of stone fruit brightens the mid-palate and a tangy finish surprises. $23.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Grand Reserve, Bien Nacido, Santa Maria Valley – Candy shop aromas of sweet raspberry and tangy cranberry. Medium-bodied in the mouth, mineral qualities seem to overwhelm what fruit existed in the nose. Thins a bit, showing a metallic finish. $23.00

2001 Zinfandel, Mead Ranch Vineyard, Napa Valley – Pale red color conflicts with the port-like nose of spicy toffee and chocolate. Port-like integrated aromas show hints of blackberry and the mouthfeel is firm and structured. Spicy cinnamon finish. $25.00

1999 Syrah, Grand Reserve – from the foothills of the Sierra mountains in Nevada County. Aromas of vanilla and ground coffee with a tease of wood. Odd. Jammy mouth entry is tight that never evolves. $23.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Tall Trees Vineyard, Napa Valley – Aromas of some spice and dark fruit and then mostly dusty dark chocolate. The flavors are at first jammy but finish with green olive. $15.00

Conn Creek Winery/Villa Mt. Eden ~
      8711 Silverado Trail ~
      St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-9100