Ultimate California Wine Blog

Greg Graziano is a very, very busy man. Having inherited vineyards that were planted by his grandfather in 1918, he has successfully established FOUR different labels under which he produces an astounding 30 to 40 different wines (I truly never could get an exact number, so this is a guess).

The Saint Gregory label is the first one that was established. Under this label are wines of the Burgundian ilk. Monte Volpe means "fox mountain" and this brand is for the development of Tuscan red varietals and whites from Friuli. Enotria is Greek for "land of wine" and was developed to promote Piemonte varietals. Lastly, under the Graziano label, are the classic Mendocino varietals; Zinfandels and Petite Sirahs.

I was extremely fortunate that it was a quiet morning during my visit and the lovely lady behind the counter was patient with me as I tried through all the labels and all the wines. I was doubly more fortunate that instead of working through one label at a time, and possibly forcing me to jump to-and-from whites and reds, she laid them out in the order in which they should be tasted. My suggestion is to really only pick a few and not attempt to go through the twenty+ that I did…

Enotria Arneis, Mendocino; Uvaggio Isabella – Enotria is Greek for "Land of Many Grapes" and Arneis is a very unusual varietal with a Piedmont heritage. Pale yellow color with decidedly delightful green apple and pear aromas. Very crisp entry that brightens into a tang in the mid-palate. Long finish with pale herbs and bright fruit. $12.00

Monte Volpe Tocai Friulan, Mendocino – Grapefruit, ripe lemon, and sweet floral tones in the nose. Not overwhelming, but well-integrated. While there was a sweetness in the bouquet, the entry was an engaging spicy crispness. There was a hint of sweetness in the center, but a long, supple finish balances out. $10.00

2002 Monte Volpe Primo Bianco, Mendocino – A blend of Arneis, Tocai, Pinot Grigio, Moscato, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay grapes. Clean lemon peel and faint tropical notes in the nose. Clean and easy with a brightness of peach and a slightly creamy finish. $10.00

Graziano Rose of Carignane – Intensely delightful aroma of sweet red apples and strawberries. Great acidity and long, structured finish. Too much fun! $12.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Potter Valley – Brownish tinge around a bricky orange/red tone. Warm strawberry and earthy dark fruit aromas. Surprisingly sweet tones in its core with a balanced, even finish that is engaging. $16.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Mendocino – Slightly oxidized with a hint of hospital smell. Thin red fruit with a metallic finish. $16.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Romani Vineyards – A more bretty example of Pinot with dusty, dried twigs in front of mature strawberry flavors. $22.00

2001 Monte Volpe Sangiovese, Mendocino – Decidedly cinnamon tones along with the bright, acidic fruit. Easy and relatively simply. $16.00 Note: This wine was tasted blind along side the following — I was only told that one was bio-dynamic and one was not. Seemed I preferred the bio-dynamic Sangiovese:

2001 Monte Volpe Sangiovese, Bio-Dynamic, Fox Creek Vineyard – Rustic and spicy in structure with an engaging hint of a spicy, candied apple. Tangy entry with some dried floral notes just hidden, but more engaging.

2001 Monte Volpe Primo Rosso – A blend of Barbera, Zinfandel, and Dolcetto. Dark, dusty spice with dried floral qualities. Sweet-like mouth entry of bing cherry and blackberry with a rich, dark spicy mid-palate and dark, floral finish. No price available.

2000 Enotria Dolcetto, Mendocino - "Zinfandel in Merlot’s clothing" was the description given to us by our pourer. Also known as "the little sweet one" because it is so easy to grow. A tease of spice behind the berry fruit. Balance acidity and very easy, fruity wine. Some hints of earth and vanilla on the finish. $14.00

2001 Enotria Barbera – Rustic with dark, dusty spice. Very engaging upon entry with dark cherry and dried lavender and heather in the core. 14.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Potter Valley, Kazmet Vineyards – Dusty cocoa tones with a hint of eucalyptus. Heightened tannic entry of jammy fruit. A tad metallic in the mid-palate with a dry, peppery finish. $24.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Robert Parker Ranch – Spicy dark fruit with ample brambleberry. Softer entry than the aromas portend. Spicy mid-palate and a juicy, full-bodied finish. $22.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Mendocino – Surprisingly sweet nose with a sherry/port-like sweet entry. Liqueur-sweet berry that would make one think it was a late-harvest! $24.00

2004 Enotria Muscato – Engaging aromas of sweet green herbs, ripe pear, and fresh green apple. More green apple on the entry and mid-palate that is a bit sweeter than anticipated. A punctuated, acidic tang on the finish would make it a great cheese wine for dessert, served well-chilled. 12.00

Graziano Family of Wines ~ 13251 S. Highway 101, Ste. 3 ~ Hopland ~ CA ~ 95449 ~ 707-744-8466

Vineyard 29 is a relative new-comer on the block. While their first vintage was officially produced in 1992, it was the completion of their astonishing gravity-method wine-making facility which was finished in 2001 that put them on the map. Okay, maybe having Heidi Barrett-Peterson as their winemaker from 1992 until 1998 didn’t hurt…

Vineyard 29 is thus named because of its physical address: 2929 Highway 29. It was established in 1989 by Theresa Norton and Tom Paine who had to utilize the services of custom crush facility; i.e., they had the vineyards but not the wine making equipment or building. In early 2000, Theresa and Tom wanted to retire and found in Chuck and Anne McMinn a couple with enough passion to take over and expand the label.

And expand they did. After designing the most technologically-advanced facility feasible, they also began acquiring additional vineyards beyond the initial Grace Family Vineyards three acres purchased. Just a few miles north of where the winery was under construction, the Aida vineyards became available. Known for astounding Zinfandel and Petite Sirah grapes, the Aida vineyard and the Grace Family vineyards became the soul of the new Vineyard 29.

Besides being the most stunning gravity-method winery I’ve ever seen, another factor that adds to Vineyard 29’s allure is an ecological one; the winery is operated with three natural gas turbines. This is one of the many steps required to becoming a Green winery and apparently the applications are already in place for that status.

The 13,000 feet of caves are a continuation of the marvel of engineering. It is only when you walk in that motion sensors begin to illuminate the cavern. It was noticeably cooler as I could sense air actually being moved, I inquired about air conditioning. No; condenser fans pull in cool air from the nearby Sauvignon Blanc vineyards and provide a natural coolant to the interior.

The very rear of the cave portal is a storage facility of current and library wines. I was extremely fortunate to be able to provide the documentation for this visit, and while I  had the honor to meet Chuck and Ann during my tour, the facilities are not open to the public, except to those already on Vineyard 29’s acquisition list. After tasting the wines, this is a list I would like to be on:

2001 Aida Zinfandel – Slightly cloudy with concentrated dark brick tones on the edges. Aromas of dusty, dark blackberry and black cassis. It hits the tongue with spicy black licorice and immediately evens out with an opulent spicy liqueur tone of dark berry. Intense, lingering finish. $60.00

2001 Aida Red Wine – 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26 % Merlot. Brick red-edged color with dark purple core. Intense, concentrated plum and dark berry notes play with molasses on the nose. Moroccan spice components reveal cardamom and Nag Champa. Wild black strawberries enter the mouth and explode with elegant spice. Complex and elegant, a heightened acidity brightens the mid-palate and toys a bit, before smoothing out to a long, luxurious finish. $75.00

2001 Vineyard 29 – 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. I brought a few friends along and the initial response was "this is what angels drink in heaven…"  Teasing aromas of fig, blueberry, cinnamon, amber, and lignum aloes shows a dark floral tone with integrated spice. The mouth entry is as dark and spicy as it portends but surprises with a sweetening in the mid-palate. The licorice finish continues to entice and seems to never end. $125.

Vineyard 29 ~ 2929 Highway 29 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-9292

I’ve had a lot of folks asking when I was going to blog Darioush. The brainchild and love child of Persian-born Khaledi Darioush, this is truly a landmark in the Napa Valley for it is not a Tuscan villa, a French château, or any form of modern temple.

What Khaledi did was reach back into his heritage and create what is known affectionately in the valley as the "Persian Palace." Referencing the historical Persepolis, which was the capital of the Achaemenid Empire founded by Darius the First in 518 BC. The Napa version is huge, ostentatious, and decidedly exhilarating.

The walkway towards the building is lined with sixteen columns, which I believe area almost twenty-feet high. Each column is topped with a bull figure, derived from the Babylonian bull, an important mythological creature from the story of Gilgamesh. The grounds surrounding the building include long, cool fountains with lotus flowers, historic wine vessels (amphoras) scattered amidst flowers, and a number of sculptures which are oddly modern in this ode to ancient history. During the summer, there has been some tents set up to invite guests to stay and linger, out of the bright sunlight.

The tasting room is a delight in light and air. The columns theme continues, with a tremendously huge centerpiece of flowers drawing one’s eye to the tasting area. The surrounding area includes a fireplace, some lovely items for sale, mostly of an historic theme including recreation ceramics, Persian pistachios, and Middle Eastern cookbooks. There are also a scattering of Eames chairs around shattered glass tables (the glass is shattered but contained, giving it a crackled look).

2001 Red Table Wine – 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc. Medium red in color, dark earthy aromas of spice, hints of green bell pepper, with an undercore of oak. Black fruit on the mouth entry that is very fruit forward. Anise shows in the mid-palate with dusty cocoa and espresso on the finish. $38.00

2004 Signature Viognier – 100% Viognier. Sweet nose with honeydew, white peach, and floral qualities. Tangy entry that blossoms to show bright acidity. Creamy finish that has a bit of a bite. $34.00

2003 Signature Chardonnay – Classic California Chardonnay with creamy butterscotch up front. Layers of white fig and melon in the mouth feel with a core of apple. Rich and creamy finish. $41.00

2002 Signature Merlot – 100% Merlot. Dark, concentrated purple color. In the nose, blueberry and brambleberry. Hot, alcoholic entry of dark currant with layers of spicy oak. There is some cocoa in the finish, but is a bit too hot to detect. $44.00

2002 Signature Shiraz – Distinct blackberry liqueur in a rich bouquet that subsides to show some soy sauce and barbecue meat. Stunning aroma that anticipates the mouth entry but gets a bit hotter, showing licorice and cocoa. $64.00

2002 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon – 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1.5% Petite Verdot, and 1.5% Malbec. At 14.8% alcohol, I thought this wine intensely hot. I could sense dark berry but underneath and in the flavor was espresso and oak with hints of cedar. $68.00

Darioush ~

I have been wanting to visit Spring Mountain for some time as there are quite a few famous names producing wines out of this illusive appellation. But I have wanted to visit the winery of Smith-Madrone far longer than I even knew what an appellation was. It was at a dinner party known as an "offline" — a small gathering of fellow wine geeks who meet over the internet ("online") and want to meet and share over good food. It was an elegant restaurant in Long Beach and Kriss Reed brought a Smith-Madrone wines which knocked my proverbial socks off. Now, all these years later, numerous failed attempts, and several months into my blogging, I finally made it up the mountain, to a sort of Mecca as it were…

Finding Smith-Madrone’s facility is not that easy. There are considerably more wineries on Spring Mountain than I anticipated and when you look at the map, it is hard to discern exactly how far up the mountain you must drive. There are obviously new wineries with bright, shiny new signs, and then there is Smith-Madrone’s signs; a little worn from age, showing both longevity and perseverance. A turn down an un-paved road makes one wonder if the right path has being taken. There is no electronic gate and no landscaped entranceway. Then you see the building. This is not an architectural landmark showcasing a winery’s ostentatious wealth. It is the work building of the Smith brothers, Stu and Charles.

I was extremely fortunate to find both Stu and Charles available on the day of my visit. Rugged and bearded both, they are effusively exuberant about their winery, their wine, and their history in the valley. Having established their winery in 1971, there are not many that can lay claim to what these brothers have done; for there are many Johnnie-come-latelys entering the valley and building wineries, but few do it with their own two hands, literally. Stu, in his 25th anniversary reminiscence recalls, "Charlie and I not only drove all of the stakes that you see around the winery but all of the stakes in the vineyard—a total of 19,000."

As a working man’s winery, tasting the wine is done in the building which holds the barrels as well as the work table. No frills, no tchotchkes, no high-pressure sell. This is not a winery one goes to for a logo t-shirt. You stand around a barrel, occasionally walking over to the sink if you want to rinse or spit. Making only 3,500 cases, they have limited themselves to just three varietals; Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Riesling.

As you look around, you see some cobwebs, some older bottles, and then comes Oreo, the winery cat. Oreo himself is worth the price of admission (free, by the way). He is entirely black save for a some nominal white spots; nose, tail tip, and paw tips. While one thinks that Stu or Charles runs the winery, it is more than evident that Oreo the cat is the real boss, showing his perturbance at not being loved and petted when demanded. Yes, there is no hesitance to indicate that an immense amount of love exists at Smith Madrone; love of the land’s inhabitants and love of the land itself. It is this type of tie to the land that shows in the wine. Of course there is good wine to be had at the large, corporate-owned wineries, but somehow Stu and Charlie’s wines taste different; they taste special.

2003 Chardonnay – Astonishingly exotic aromas of lemon and herbs with dark, elegant floral tones. The entry is tangy and tantalizing, but subdues to show lemon meringue in the mid-palate and long, creamy finish. There is a hint of malo, but it does not become an over-wrought butter bomb, instead taming the fruit into distinct integration. $25.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Aromas of dark pepper and earthy root vegetables shows with cassis and dark fruit. Chewy upon entry, black currant and black pepper teased the mouth with a long, spicy finish. $35.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon – 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. Dark, purple core with red edges, this concentrated, inky demonstrated jammy blackberry aromas with a hint of purple bell pepper and dark spice. The swarthy, exotic aromas continued with brambleberry and Moroccan incense. Having just been bottled, it was a tad tight, but promises to be a wine for long-term aging. $40.00

2004 Riesling – Made in the Alsatian style, with less than one percent residual sugar, this astonishing mountain wine at first provides floral aromas akin to Edelweiss and daisies, but deepens to display hints of key lime and white melon. With a core of minerality, the wine is at first bright and engaging, but finishes with a spicy elegance surprising in a California Riesling. $20.00

1999 Riesling – This was pretty special for the boys had re-released this well-aged wine, selling out almost immediately. They just happened to have one or two lying around to taste… Golden straw in color, the aromas were at once dark honeysuckle and white peach, but then brandy-like with complexity. The mouth entry was rich and creamy with a lingering sweetness, alluding to its 1.2% residual sugar. Who knew that a California Riesling had the potential for aging? It certainly had evolved, showing development in character. Herein lies a crusade of the Smith Brothers: "Drink Chardonnay and age Riesling."

Smith-Madrone ~ 4022 Spring Mountain Road ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~  94574 ~ 707- 963-2283

William Hill Winery is one of those belonging to the large conglomerate of Allied Domecq. But I, for one, see nothing wrong with the continuing globalization of wineries — in many ways, it adds to consistency and stability; something that many smaller, family-owned wineries are unable to obtain.

Considering its physical size, William Hill is also one of those off-the-beat-and-track, compared to many sitting directly on Highway 29 or the Silverado Trail. It is on a backroad, off Atlas Peak Drive, in what is considered the Silverado Bench. I have classified this winery under three different appellations; the Atlas Peak Appellation, where their Chardonnay and some premium Cabernet Sauvignon is grown, Carneros, where they have 80-some acres of additional Chardonnay, and the Napa Appellation, for much of their remaining grape supply.  I understand that there are powers at work to make the Silverado Bench a new appellation within the Napa Valley and I hope to come back to this listing in the future to update it.

There is a long, grand twisting driveway that leads to where the buildings lie. The grounds are certainly worth a stroll because the facilities sit just a bit higher on the property, providing a sweeping view of the south end of Napa that is quite incomparable. Granted, there are mountain wineries which offer a different perspective, but this one is quite special.

The tasting room itself is bright and open with a touch of modern art in its austerity. Adjacent to the tasting bar, is a large, full-length open window which shows the cellaring of barrels; hundreds and hundreds of barrels. There are two tastings; the Napa Valley Tasting includes three wines for $5.00, or the Estate Tasting which is four wines for $10.00. I opted for both, wanting to taste across the spectrum, with the exception of the Chardonnay (as I had been tasting nothing but red all day, I wasn’t ready to go back):

2001 Malbec – 88% Malbec, 8% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. A tease of soy sauce and barbecue in its Syrah-like aromas, under which explodes dark berry fruit and a hint of strawberry. Subtle oak tendencies show in the initial taste, heightened by up-front acidity, a decidedly blueberry mid-palate, and an integrated, woody finish. $30.00

2001 Merlot – 88% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Opulent bouquet of boysenberries, dark plum, and hints of rustic herbs. Even, balanced entry brightens a bit showing smooth fruit. Not a fruit bomb by any stretch, with a slightly tinny finish. $20.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, and 2% Petite Verdot. Immediate aroma of vanilla and then fruit which is pretty strong and forward. A second swirl shows oak, cassis, blueberry, and black cherry. The mouth entry is bright but layers into depths that include all the fruit plus some leather. Slightly dry finish but opulent and smooth. $22.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petite Verdot, and 1% Merlot. Dark berry liqueur with a hint of soy sauce. Sweet entry with a chew mid-palate. Heightened acidity shows touches of sweet cherry in the finish. $35.00

2002 Petite Sirah – 80% Petite Sirah, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Merlot. Dark, inky purple color with ripe plum liqueur tones. Behind the sweetness of the liqueur are darker barbecued meat and sweet soy sauce. Full, rich aromas don’t provide the ‘pow’ factor in the first sip and the wine smells fruitier than it tastes. The smooth, easy-drinking wine displays a ‘pop’ in the mid-palate and a nice, lingering finish. $30.00

William Hill Winery ~ 1761 Atlas Peak Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707.224.5424