Ultimate California Wine Blog

There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle-ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man’s fears and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area we call the ‘Twilight Zone.’ Those were the words that Rod Serling used to open what could arguably be called the most influential television show of the 1950s. It is also the feeling that one experiences when spending time at Rancho de las Flores (no website link available) owned by Ralph Wermuth.

Located just off the Silverado Trail, this is a winery that could very easily be driven past if you are not paying very close attention. The small house and the building that acts as the tasting room lie behind such overgrown shrubbery that the Twilight Zone analogy is not far from the truth. One wonders if there is anything behind the massive foliage. The building is extremely non-descript and a bit worn. As we approached, a gentleman followed behind us and we had the pleasure of meeting proprietor, Ralph Wermuth.

The Twilight Zone feeling continued as Ralph is definitely a character. Indicating I was in the industry, he started asking if we had as much problem with the "other countries’ trade barriers" as he did. He is obviously concerned about those "other countries." I implied that we did not really export to Europe yet but were just beginning to work on that. "No, not Europe," he emphasized. "The other countries like Massachusetts and those damn trade barriers!" Distinctly odd… The tasting room? Well, the cobwebs were evident, the glasses were dirty, and the wine was, well… interesting, to say the least. But spending a few minutes with Ralph is worth a visit.

White Wine – I’m serious. That is what his label reads. A viscous, dark yellow, it is mostly Colombard grapes with a splash of Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of a biting apple cider with harsh minerals. The entry is sweet with a tang in the middle. Mostly grassy flavors and a harsh finish. $12.00

Amigo Viejo – 100% Gamay. Biting sweet nose. Chewy blackberry that showed oxidization. Strident to the point of painful with a biting, metallic finish. $15.00

Rancho de las Flores Cellars ~ 3942 Silverado Trail ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 707-942-5924

So I’m driving around the Kenwood area and stumble on Kaz Winery which, oddly enough, has Landmark Winery as their landmark. Okay, that was pretty lame, I know… Landmark actually has quite a reputation and is one of those select few wineries who specialize making FIVE different Chardonnays, three different Pinot Noir, and — oh yes — a Syrah.

The entrance toward the Spanish-style mission building structure is elegant and rather perfectly manicured. It lies right on the main thoroughfare between the town of Sonoma and the city of Santa Rosa. Known as the community of Kenwood, it is home to a handful of some of the most prestigious Chardonnay producers in wine country.

The Landmark estate has some stunning landscaping features. The entrance itself is an archway of amethyst morning glories. Leading to the tasting room, a few steps beyond that brings visitors to a tiled outdoor fountain, hidden walkways, and a small, private picnic area.

The tasting room is itself a work of art – or at least the wall behind the tasting bar is a work of art. The Chardonnay grapevine mural truly takes one’s breath away.

2002 "Courtyard" Chardonnay – 100% malo usually tells me to prepare for butter bombs. Instead, this medium-bodied, pale straw colored wine showed light tropical aromas. The mouth feel showed bright acidity and a bit of mineral on the mid-palate. $15.00

2003 Overlook Chardonnay – Their flagship white, also 100% malo, this one a bit darker in its golden hue and heftier in the nose. Butter lemon and clean aromas provided balanced, well-integrated fruit with a touch of cream. $25.00

2002 Damaris Reserve Chardonnay – Almost cloyingly rich bouquet of marshmallow and toffee. Not over oaked or buttery displaying distinct layers of mineral and defined fruit. $34.00

2002 Lorenzo Chardonnay – The richest and most full-bodied of the lot. Spicy white peach and honey framed minerals and toasted nuts. $45.00

2001 Grand Detour Pinot Noir – Warm, rich cherry aromas anticipate the complex cherry mouth entrance. Spice appears in the middle and the finish is a touch sweet. $70.00/1.5L

2002 Grand Detour Pinot Noir – Rather classic medium-bodied offering, giving well-developed red fruit flavors seamlessly integrated with earthiness that ends a bit dry. $30.00

2001 Kastania Pinot Noir – Mushroom predominates plummy fruit. The entry was a tad thin but expands into darker spice characteristics and more bright red fruit on the finish. $100.00/1.5L

2003 Steel Plow Syrah – Floral, blossomy aromas expand into spicy black liqueur. Fabulously rich, sweet nose, even though it was a bit tight. A swirl or two brought out some spice. Dark, heady mouth feel giving a hint of sweet black licorice on the back-palate with heightened acidity. Complex and caressing. $24.00

Landmark Winery ~ 101 Adobe Canyon Road ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-0053