Cuvaison – 153
Friday, September 2nd, 2005
Cuvaison is a well-known name around the Napa valley but I didn’t realize the winery had such longevity; Thomas Cotrell and Thomas Parkhill purchased 27 acres on the Silverado Trail, about half way between St. Helena and Calistoga. The past 35 years have seen a number of different captains the Cuvaison ship, with additional property acquired on Mt. Veeder and a substantial hunk of land in Carneros.
Now, with substantial business growth, one of Cuvaison’s major claims to fame is that 20% of their 60,000 cases is sold internationally. This makes them often more well known outside the United States than within it. Also, of these 60,000 some-odd cases, over 65% of that is purely Chardonnay. Occasionally there are arguments that too much Cabernet Sauvignon is being made, but I believe many forget that it is really Chardonnay that leads the pack in grape growth.
The Cuvaison guest center is surprisingly small considering the volume production of the winery. It is small, yet charming. The interior of the building houses the tasting room and sales area. The staff working the room are pleasant and helpful. Another advantage of note is that this is one of the many wineries north of Deer Park Road on the Trail that has a picnic area. I continue to be astonished at the number of wineries that allow this located in this vicinity.
2004 Sauvignon Blanc – Green grass and lemon peel on the nose. Classically tangy entry with a full mouth of grapefruit. Spicy finish. $19.00
2003 Chardonnay, Carneros – 75% malo – Luscious stone fruit with well-integrated oak. Creamy sense of meringue on the entry, deepening to flavors of nutmeg. Tangy, lime finish. $35.00
2004 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir – Very, very pale pink color. Surprisingly creamy nose with a tease of berry. Tangy entry but no discernible flavors. $16.00
2003 Estate Pinot – Dripping wet with cherry, raspberry, and strawberry up front surrounding a core of vanilla oak. Dense and chewy with a harsh entry despite the great nose. Mineral finish thins and surprises from the big start. $48.00
2002 Syrah – Some moldy funk behind dark berry and black fruit. White pepper whispers in the back of the nostrils. Hot, tight entry softens a bit, showing surprisingly red, bright fruit. $28.00
2003 Espiritu Port – An odd combination of Petite Sirah and Zinfandel, fortified with brandy. Petrol nose – behind the alcohol, mostly green olive aromas. Biting entry burns a bit. $35.00/375 ml
Cuvaison ~ 4550 Silverado Trail ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 707-942-6266