Ultimate California Wine Blog

Socrates Nicholson purchased a small cattle ranch in Sonoma in 1961, thinking it would be a better place to raise his family. Years later, it was daughter, Ramona (along with her husband Deepak Gulrajani) who made the ranch that she had grown up Nicholson Ranch.

I watched the construction of the winery building when it began in 2002 and visited briefly right before it opened. It is an impressive gravity-method winery and on any given day, tours of the facilities are offered. These are hardly formal and are not at set times.

The tour guide is great at relaying the family history and pointing out much of Socrates’ influence. There is a small chapel that was built for Ramona’s christening that can be seen from only a few vantage points on the property. Socrates has also personally constructed a stacked-rock waterfall and a classic outdoor pillar-bedecked amphitheater for performances.

Most impressive on the tour is the great room with a continuation of the Greek-themed pillars and inset stained glass windows that depict the four seasons of a grape’s life. This room, along with much of the winery’s facilities are often utilized for events and weddings. During my first visit, the winery was producing just barely 1,500 cases of wine. On this visit, I was told they are now at 5,000 cases with aspirations towards 10,000 cases.

I will give the winery much credit in its growth. During my first visit, the Pinot I tasted was downright cloudy. Perhaps I received a single questionable glass from a single questionable bottle, but it was exactly that: questionable. The wines have improved greatly and the tasting room is now elegantly decorated and the staff warm and inviting.

2002 Estate Chardonnay – Clean aromas of kiwi and tropical fruit. Mouth feel is creamy with well-integrated stone fruit qualities. $26.00

2004 Ramona Rosé – A rosé of Pinot Noir. Pinky garnet-toned color. Sweet nose of candy apple with a touch of cream. Soft entry that heightens in the mid-palate with a slight tang of cotton candy. A tad hotter in alcohol than anticipated. $18.00

2001 Estate Pinot Noir – Light bodied wine with cherry, strawberry, and some candy. A bit murky (not nearly as cloudy as the first time I tasted the wine two years ago). Thin entry expands a bit to fuller, mostly sweet mineral tones. Strawberry predominates and finishes hot. $24.00

2002 Estate Pinot Noir – Dark ruby color with magenta hue. Great, rich berry nose. Dark candy and some mint. Initial taste of marshmallow which subsides to show layers of strawberry, zinfandel-like pepper, and muted herbs. $30.00

2002 Carneros Syrah – 20 months in French oak with medium toast. Dark, inky color with aromas of bacon, soy sauce, and smoky blueberry. Medium body in taste that was a bit astringent. Long herbal finish smooths out. $25.00

2002 Estate Syrah – Fruit-forward dark berry that is inky black with purple tinge on the edge. A bit more balanced than its predecessor. Behind the jammy fruit is a hint of eucalyptus. Surprisingly less fruit in the mouth than its jammy nose portends. Definitely showing more structure with an even touch of wood in the finish. $40.00

Nicholson Ranch ~
           4200 Napa Road ~
           Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~
           707-938-8822

William Hill Winery is one of those belonging to the large conglomerate of Allied Domecq. But I, for one, see nothing wrong with the continuing globalization of wineries — in many ways, it adds to consistency and stability; something that many smaller, family-owned wineries are unable to obtain.

Considering its physical size, William Hill is also one of those off-the-beat-and-track, compared to many sitting directly on Highway 29 or the Silverado Trail. It is on a backroad, off Atlas Peak Drive, in what is considered the Silverado Bench. I have classified this winery under three different appellations; the Atlas Peak Appellation, where their Chardonnay and some premium Cabernet Sauvignon is grown, Carneros, where they have 80-some acres of additional Chardonnay, and the Napa Appellation, for much of their remaining grape supply.  I understand that there are powers at work to make the Silverado Bench a new appellation within the Napa Valley and I hope to come back to this listing in the future to update it.

There is a long, grand twisting driveway that leads to where the buildings lie. The grounds are certainly worth a stroll because the facilities sit just a bit higher on the property, providing a sweeping view of the south end of Napa that is quite incomparable. Granted, there are mountain wineries which offer a different perspective, but this one is quite special.

The tasting room itself is bright and open with a touch of modern art in its austerity. Adjacent to the tasting bar, is a large, full-length open window which shows the cellaring of barrels; hundreds and hundreds of barrels. There are two tastings; the Napa Valley Tasting includes three wines for $5.00, or the Estate Tasting which is four wines for $10.00. I opted for both, wanting to taste across the spectrum, with the exception of the Chardonnay (as I had been tasting nothing but red all day, I wasn’t ready to go back):

2001 Malbec – 88% Malbec, 8% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. A tease of soy sauce and barbecue in its Syrah-like aromas, under which explodes dark berry fruit and a hint of strawberry. Subtle oak tendencies show in the initial taste, heightened by up-front acidity, a decidedly blueberry mid-palate, and an integrated, woody finish. $30.00

2001 Merlot – 88% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Opulent bouquet of boysenberries, dark plum, and hints of rustic herbs. Even, balanced entry brightens a bit showing smooth fruit. Not a fruit bomb by any stretch, with a slightly tinny finish. $20.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, and 2% Petite Verdot. Immediate aroma of vanilla and then fruit which is pretty strong and forward. A second swirl shows oak, cassis, blueberry, and black cherry. The mouth entry is bright but layers into depths that include all the fruit plus some leather. Slightly dry finish but opulent and smooth. $22.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petite Verdot, and 1% Merlot. Dark berry liqueur with a hint of soy sauce. Sweet entry with a chew mid-palate. Heightened acidity shows touches of sweet cherry in the finish. $35.00

2002 Petite Sirah – 80% Petite Sirah, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Merlot. Dark, inky purple color with ripe plum liqueur tones. Behind the sweetness of the liqueur are darker barbecued meat and sweet soy sauce. Full, rich aromas don’t provide the ‘pow’ factor in the first sip and the wine smells fruitier than it tastes. The smooth, easy-drinking wine displays a ‘pop’ in the mid-palate and a nice, lingering finish. $30.00

William Hill Winery ~ 1761 Atlas Peak Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707.224.5424

Clos du Val is among those in Napa which has an amazing reputation and long-established reputation. In 1972, John Goelet and Bernard Portet, an American business and French winemaker respectively, joined forces in establishing one of the more famous wineries in the Napa Valley. Their reputation grew and by 1976, was one of the very few California wineries represented in the now-famous Paris competition.

The truly stunning building complex can be seen from the roadway, vine-covered, warm, and inviting.

The tasting room is always crowded and the staff extremely amiable. I have brought a lot of friends to Clos du Val because of their reputation for quality wines and excellent service. I’m just having difficulty getting beyond the overtly green Stags Leap qualities in the premium offerings.

2002 Ariadne – 73% Semillon and 27% Sauvignon Blanc demonstrated crisp grassy notes layered with kiwi fruit. A surprisingly creamy entry finished with a punctuated tanginess. $21.00

2003 Carneros Chardonnay – A light, non-malo prepared Chardonnay shows tropical fruits with a touch of apricot in aromas. Nine months in French oak have given the mouth feel some darker vanilla notes. $21.00

2001 Carneros Pinot Noir – Immediate earthy, bretty tones with a mineral mid-palate failed to impress. $38.00

2003 Carneros Pinot Noir – Fresh strawberry and raspberry scents present themselves immediately which follows in taste, accented with layered tones of black cherry, an earthy mid-palate, and a lively, spicy finish. $24.00

2002 Napa Valley Merlot – Intense aromas of green bell pepper predominate, with secondary dense brambleberry in nose and mouth. 6% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc give this wine a bit more earth but it still seems muddled. $25.00

2000 Stags Leap District Cabernet – Intense, burning green bell pepper which was tight and acidic. Maybe it will even out with age. $62.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Barnyard and hospital aromas belie the fruity entry with a dry, mid-palate and pale, earthy finish. $28.00

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Overwhelming green bell pepper beyond which I perceived very little. $28.00

2001 Reserve Zinfandel, Stags Leap District – Classic SLD green bell pepper with a spicy entry that fails to go anywhere. $40.00

Clos du Val ~ 5330 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-261-5225

Artesa Winery is hands-down one of the most stunningly beautiful establishments in all of winedom. Owned by Spanish-based Cordoniu, it was constructed in 1991 to be a sparkling wine producer. I believe my first visit there was in ’92 or ’93 and I remember well the peaceful, serene surroundings and ultra-elegant glasses of bubbly shared on the terrace over looking the Carneros appellation. But that was over then years ago. Back then, when you drove up, you could actually see the building…

With all its glitz and glamor, Artesa is not located within eye-shot of a major highway. There is no ostentatious edifice which will lure in the uninitiated. You have to hunt for it and even when you think you might be close, you aren’t sure. After driving off a small, access road and around some small hills, all you see is a bump on a grassy hill. Yes, when I first visited the winery ten years ago, the building structure was visible and now it is submerged. You drive up a meandering, slightly twisty road — past a farmhouse here and a smaller winery there, until the grand fairy mound magically appears.

Then, you actually see stairs, flanked by thin, parallel fountains with water that runs down as you ascend, like a stream coming down a mountain. At the pinnacle, a large pool of dark water with modern cleaves of metal jutting out and fountains which anoint the visitor with a mist, a spray to cleanse before entering.  A sharp, black glass angle heaves its way from the organic mass next to the threshold – making its presence known. You are Thomas Mann’s Hans Castorp and this magic mountain will transform.

Stepping inside is a moment of metamorphosis. Warm wood and spaces separated only with clear glass and a multitude of smooth columns, the immensity is immediately apparent. Art is everywhere. Sculptures of glass, paper, clay, wood, and more — not crowded and overwhelming, but strategically placed in such a manner to complement and entice. A non-art lover might never realize what surrounds them. And if a history buff is part of the entourage, neither will they be disappointed as an extensive historical museum has been established, instructing in both the history of the area as well as the history of wine in general.

Besides the tremendous growth of grass over the estate, a few other changes have been underway. While an occasional sparkling is now made, in 1999 the company changed direction entirely towards the production of still wine. To my immense joy, the winery has also established an artist-in-residence program as well, which explains the ever-evolving display which so entranced yours truly. The tasting room is large, but there are only two tasting bars to accommodate the crowds, although guests are more than welcome to sit at one of the many minimalist-designed seatings. One bar is devoted to VIPs and wine club guests. The only complaint, if there could be one, is with the acoustics. With the vaulted ceilings set above voluminous amounts of wood and glass, when the room is full it becomes very, very loud. Visit Artesa, but go on a weekday and if you admire modern art, make sure to give yourself ample time — this is not an establishment that can be rushed. Oh yeah, and they make pretty good wine, too:

2001 Artesa Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County – Light garnet color with a warm, dark berry nose. Well-balanced acidity complements the Indian spices which tantalize the finish. $25.00

2002 Artesa Pinot Noir, Carneros – Effusive, black raspberry bouquet gave way to dark, spicy notes. Almost the antithesis of the bright, engaging mouth entry which finished quite smoothly. $20.00

2002 Artesa Reserve Pinot Noir, Carneros – Exciting classic fruit combinations of cherry, blueberry, and cassis produce an elegant aroma. A soft entry produces more cherry and complements with spice. More balanced and expansive than the previous two with a long, round finish. $40.00

2000 Artesa Merlot, Sonoma Valley – Hints of green bell pepper give way to bigger plum nose qualities. Huge mid-palate of vanilla with a dry-ish, spicy finish. $19.99

2000 Artesa Merlot, Napa Valley – Bigger green bell pepper aromas, akin to the Stags Leap District. Darker fruit of black plum with relatively soft tannins. $19.99

2001 Merlot, Napa Valley – Orangy, garnet color. Bright berry and cherry with a hint of a green, mineral finish. It approaches the tongue as soda-pop would; effusive cherry cola but lays back to produce earthier qualities. $19.99

2000 Artesa Reserve Merlot, Sonoma Valley – Elegant, candy-like bouquet which blossoms with full, dark brambleberries. The candy in the nose transforms into rose petals on the tongue followed by darker berries, vanilla, and a distinct coffee-like finish. $50.00

2001 Artesa Syrah, Sonoma Valley – Exciting dark fruits like black plum, black raspberry, and blackberry that is full and balanced. Very, very easy to drink. This would make a great beginner’s Syrah as an introduction wine. $15.99

2001 Elements Proprietary Blend – 72% Merlot, 10% Syrah, and the rest a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and 2% Tempranillo. This wine as touted as an "exotic and spicy blend of Bordeaux and Rhone varietals." Interesting concept. There is definitely a WOW factor with the first sniff which produces candied red hots and subsides to produce lots of fruit. The mouth entry is bright and the subsequent taste is not exceptionally full or deep, but very, very interesting and fun. $19.99

2001 Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley – Jammy and perfumey with floral tones in its aroma. Very soft, velvety entry which tightens a bit. Herbal finish that is surprisingly accommodating. $30.00

2001 Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – A bit of candy shop on the nose in its vanilla and bright berry fruit. Dry mid-palate shows dark spices like clove and cumin which belies its overall brightness. $30.00

2000 Artesa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Huge, syrupy, sweet nose. Port-like aromas do not prepare for the velvety, creamy entry. Long and silky a mid-palate of vanilla extract with hints of balsamic that finishes rather earthy. $60.00

NV Artesa Select Late Harvest Gewurztraminer, San Benito County – At 9.5% residual sugar, I would have thought this wine sweeter than it was. Pale, straw-like colors do not anticipate the strikingly bright and smooth entry. Aromas of litchi and apricot do not prepare for the taste which is the pure Essence of Gewurztraminer. Surprisingly smooth and even with a silky finish. $27.50

Artesa ~ 1345 Henry Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94559 ~ 707-224-1668

I was delighted to hear German-born Walter Schug speak at the tenth annual Taste of Sonoma celebration held at Copia a few months back. He was part of a six-person panel comprised of other local winery owners, growers, and winemakers. Having started out as a grape grower for Gallo, Schug has seen more than fifty harvests in California. In helping Joseph Phelps establish the Phelps winery in 1973, Schug made his first Pinot Noir.  Those years at Phelps were breakthrough years as it enabled Schug to spearhead the establishment of what is now known as the Carneros Appellation.

Tapping into his German heritage, he explained that there is often a joke that Germans have one long leg and one short leg for working the mountain vineyards in Germany.  In Carneros, the workers have no necks as there are almost constant strong winds. These strong winds force the grapes to grow thicker skins for protection. And while it is perfect Pinot country,  he lamented that it would also be the perfect appellation for Riesling and Gewurztraminer grapes… if there were a market for such grapes.

Finding the winery to taste Schug’s wine takes a little perseverance.  At the pseudo-three-way intersection of Highways 116 and 121 sits a small, innocuous delicatessen, Carneros Deli. Immediately to the side of the deli is an access road which, if you drive along long enough, leads you to the front gate of Schug, up and around a small hill, and ultimately to a small German-heritage styled building which houses the winemaking facilities and tasting room.

The tasting room is small but the reception and warmth which lies within is large. During my last visit, the bloke who poured for me was the very one who was there during my last visit, well over five years ago. They are friendly and informative and the wines themselves are extremely impressive in an age of over-priced, bombastic fruit bombs.

2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County – Having seen just a tad bit of oak, this classic offering of Sauvignon Blanc presented warm and soft tropical notes on the nose. The mouth entry was a surprise with crisp, bright grapefruit which immediately softened to a clean, spicy melon finish. $15.00

2003 Chardonnay, Carneros – Inoculated in new barrels, I was surprised at how pale in color this Chardonnay was. Light, apple and tropical notes just barely tantalized before displaying deeper pear tones. Elegantly balanced with even acidity providing a very clean, tangy finish. $20.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast – Jammy plum aromas are somewhat the antitheses to the bright raspberry and cherry mouth entry. Acidic mid-palate provides a nice balance to the somewhat dry finish. $16.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Carneros – Oak aromas present themselves upfront which pair nicely with the warm, soft entry of cherry and dark berry. There is a brightness in the mid-palate which is punctuated at the end with a spicy finish. $20.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros, "Heritage Reserve" – Barrel aged 16 months, this incredibly dark, spicy wine showed immense amounts of dark berry along with cinnamon and clove aromas. The velvety entry was supple and hinted at some of the toasty oak underneath. A dry, spicy finish highlighted the mouthfeel of this exceptional offering. $30.00

2001 Merlot, Sonoma Valley – Huge jammy dark fruit subsides to hint at just a whisper of bell pepper on the nose. A tight entry blossoms to dark, full-bodied fruit with a dry, spicy finish. $20.00

Schug ~ 602 Bonneau Road ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~ 800-966-9365