Ultimate California Wine Blog

Before I moved to the Napa Valley, I would drive up on three- and four-day weekends from Los Angeles.  Robert Sinskey Vineyards was one of my favorite wineries during every visit. This is the bain of the neophyte visitor — you find a great place and it is hard to move on to discover other great places, but always happy and satisfied knowing an old friend is there for you. I was initially drawn to Sinskey because of a friend’s invitation, but have gone back many times because of their Pinots.

One of the many charms that Sinskey offers is more than good wine. I have always received exceptional, personal service from the pouring staff. Upon arrival, guests are greeted with architecture that is both modern and austere, yet constructed of wood that is warm and inviting.  For its categorization, I have placed it in both the Napa Carneros appellation, where the bulk of their vineyards are located (200+ acres) as well as the Stag’s Leap District appellation, where their winery physically stands but is also the home of their Cabernet vineyards (4 acres of Cabernet and 1/2 acre of Merlot).

The entry into the tasting room presents exaulted, open ceilings and a semi-round tasting bar which instead of offering sharp, angular, psychologically sharp corners, softens the room making it immediately comfortable and inviting. There are many of the standard retail items strewn about, but not blatantly so and more set back. Directly behind the tasting bar are large, glass windows behind which displays part of the wine making area with stainless steel vats. At the end of a normally retail-oriented space, is a small presentation kitchen with wood-fired stone oven. This is all related to Maria Helms-Sinskey’s belief that wine tastes better with food and has subsequently also written the well known The Vineyard Kitchen.

When tasting their wine, they continue with the philosophy that wine pairs better with food. Inasmuch, small ramekins of rosemary-scented Marconi almonds and Nicoise olives are set out with olive oil crackers to taste with the wine. And one last point before the wine notes; I was a tad surprised that much of the Pinot I tasted for this blog is the same vintage that I tasted three years ago; 2000. However, I have been assured that a number of new vintages will be released at the beginning of March; a 2002 Los Carneros Pinot and the 2001 Four Vineyards. More exciting, however, is the news that later in the year will be the presentation of some vineyard-specific Pinots which I will anxiously await: The Vandal Vineyard, The Three Amigos, and The Capa Vineyard Pinots.

2003 Pinot Blanc, Los Carneros – 100% stainless steel produces a surprisingly warm nose of aromatic jasmine and citrus blossom. Thick, engaging mid-palate which produces melon flavors. The tanginess that is normally perceived in Sauvignon Blanc appears in this wine as part of the finish. $18.00

2002 Chardonnay, Three Amigos Vineyard – Los Carneros of Napa Valley – Eight to ten months of French oak don’t overpower this Chard, probably because there was no malo fermentation used. Initial bouquet of apple and vanilla anticipates the deeper flavors of pear and toasted nut. Very long, silky finish. $30.00

2004 Vin Gris – Pinot Noir Rose – Beautiful peach color with wild strawberry aromas. Extremely bright and engaging. Warm nose with a soft entry that builds and effuses. Keeps going and going. Must try with BBQ! $16.00

2000 Four Vineyards Pinot Noir – Los Carneros of Napa Valley – Very bright red raspberry nose just barely hides a secondary aroma of vegetal pepper. First tastes produce strawberry and minerally tones which give way to a slightly acidic finish that diminishes quickly. Having tasted this vintage upon its release several years ago, I believe the wine is waning. $46.00

2001 Merlot – Los Carneros of Napa Valley – A blend of 76% Merlot with 24% Cabernet, but this Cabernet was not from Stag’s Leap, but Carneros. Green bell pepper bouquet which made me think it might have been from Stag’s Leap District, but I think the bell pepper aromas were the Cabernet. Harsh, astringent entry with a hint of mint in the mid-palate. Tannic finish. $26.00

1999 Vineyard Reserve, Napa Valley – 52% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Another earthy entry, quite probably from Stag’s Leap District Cabernet. Bouquet of mint and spice. Extracted pine in the mouth with a cocoa finish. $36.00

Robert Sinskey Vineyards ~ 6320 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-944-9090

First off, a note about the appellation… Carneros is an oddity among appellations as it has vineyards and wineries in both Napa county and Sonoma county – it is the only appellation to break county lines. Consequently, there is Carneros Napa and there is Carneros Sonoma. I suppose if I weren’t trying to categorize my entries by County AND Appellation, I wouldn’t have this problem, but I do. On that note, a not-to-be missed winery in EITHER county is Domaine Carneros by Taittinger.

Domaine Carneros is the brainchild of the Taittinger family in France as their efforts to bring their sparkling wine skills to California. The building "was inspired by the historic and lovely Louis XV style Chateau de la Marquetterie in Champagne, France. The site of the Marquette was originally an abbey press house. In the 17th Century Frere Oudart, the abbey’s cellarmaster made significant contributions to refining the Champagne making process. Today the Chateau de la Marquetterie in France is the country home and estate of the Taittinger family."

We have this amazing replica of a French chateau but is it all hype? Not in my opinion. While not as exceptional as "real" French champagne, I think there is a great deal of brouhaha about folks not liking California sparkling wine because they compare it to the great houses in Europe, in many ways, there is much to be said for the sparkling wines produced in California. Besides, what I really like about Domaine Carneros is not their sparkling as much as the fact that they produce Pinot…

When you enter the grand building, you are greeted by a multitude of friendly servers and something of an anomoly in wine country tasting rooms: Sit Down Service. No bar to belly-up to here, just a scattering of tables with servers who pour, serve, and inform. When the weather is fair, that service extends to the terrace. Nothing can be nicer than sipping some bubbly while lounging over the span of vineyards in your view. Along with their alcoholic offerings, there is a menu placed before you with cheese trays and caviar. The cheese trays are wine-specific with both an offering for their sparkling service and Pinot service.

For my last visit, we opted for both the sparkling tasting and the Pinot tasting. The sparkling wine is served in appropriately-fluted glasses, but they are charmingly miniature in size, serving a perfect two-ounce pour in what looks like a full glass. There are also laminated cards where they place the glasses so you don’t mix up which wine is which. There are always some almonds along with the service as well. The servers work very hard to make sure there is not a long wait as many pull double duty, checking in on tables that have already been served.  And the wines are pretty darned good too:

SPARKLING
2001 Domaine Carneros Brut Vintage – 65% Piont Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 3% Pinot Blanc. This wine comprises half of the winery’s entire production, about 3,000 cases worth. Bright and unassuming, thre are notes of citrus, melon, and a hint of toasted nut on the nose. Aged on the yeast for three years, it has even yeast structure and doesn’t overwhelm. $24.00

NV Domaine Carneros Brut Rose – 38% Chardonnay, 62% Pinot Noir, and 5% still Pinot (where the color comes from!). Creamy strawberry bouquet with a hint of peach. This is a winery-only wine which is elegant but I wish a bit more affordable. $34.00

1998 La Reve Blanc de Blanc – La Reve means "the dream" which is a reference to the entire establishment and what the Taittinger family had to go through to get the winery here in Napa. This sparkling is 100% Chardonnay is aged six years and is made in very small quantities. To me, it smells a bit too yeasty upon first whiff which belies its very long, creamy finish. $55.00

STILL
2003 Avant-Garde Pinot Noir – Clear, garnet color. Earthy aromas give way to a full, jammy nose. It is the lightest and fruitiest of the three tasted. Bright raspberries present in the mouth with a finish of orange peel. $27.99

2002 Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir – Same garnet color, but a tad darker than the Avant Garde. This Pinot is made in 100% French oak. Huge cherry and vanilla bouquet. There is a peppery, cayenne-like spice which enters with first taste that is strong and acidic but gives way to a more elegant, layered cinnamon and clove spice. $27.00

2001 Famous Gate Pinot Noir – This is a winery-only Pinot and presents a tremendous bright raspberry bouquet with hints of orange underneath. A bit oaky, but not overly so. The initial mouthfeel is fruity with plum and brambleberry, but finishes with tobacco. $50.00

Domaine Carneros ~ 1240 Duhig Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-257-3020