Ultimate California Wine Blog

This was one of the more difficult posting, categorically speaking. I have been driving by Conn Creek‘s facilities every day for almost two years and met a delightful sales rep of theirs at the Premiere Napa Valley tasting. But I did not realize that their sister winery was Villa Mt. Eden so going to Conn Creek also means going to Villa Mt. Eden. Apparently there is also a bit of confusion which I had learned earlier that Villa Mt. Eden is not associated with Mt. Eden Vineyards.

I have actually had the advantage of tasting some older Conn Creek offerings from the late 1980s and early nineties that I found quite intriguing. They have been in business since the early 1970s and produce Bordeaux varietals. The Villa Mt. Eden sister winery branches out a bit more with Zinfandel and Syrah offerings. Their websites indicate two separate winemakers; Mike McGrath for Villa Mt. Eden and Jeff McBride for Conn Creek.

Oddly, there is little information on the Villa Mt. Eden site about its genesis and I am terribly curious about the affiliation and integration between the two wineries. Two winemakers? I imagine that in close quarters, there is much more of a team effort between the two, but I am saddened there is not more information about why there are two separate labels with different winemakers.

Conn Creek Winery
2003 Sauvignon Blanc – From the Tall Trees Vineyard, Napa. Delicate and lovely with lemon peel, a touch of citrus, and clean floral notes. All this adds to a more orange flavor in the mouth that is easy and not astringent. $18.00

2001 Cabernet Franc – 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. I believe this bottle might have been opened the day before as it showed distinct oxidized qualities of dust under the black cherry. $25.00

2001 Merlot – Tight cherry and blueberry just hide a tease of cocoa on the nose. The mouth entry is tight with mostly mineral tones. $25.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – Unexciting offering of cassis and cherry with spice that seems slightly out of balance. I can’t put my finger on it, but there was no integration in the few flavors that I could discern. $25.00

2001 Anthology – 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petite Verdot, and 4% Malbec. Dried cherry and dried floral aromas show at first, but are quickly overwhelmed with hot, medicinal qualities. Not as full-bodied as anticipated, herbal flavors overwhelmed the fruit. $50.00

Villa Mt. Eden Wines
2004 Chardonnay, Grand Reserve, Bien Nacido, Santa Maria Valley – 100% malo shows a classic offering of dark fig and rich melon with buttery tones. Fruit forward in the mouthfeel, a bit of stone fruit brightens the mid-palate and a tangy finish surprises. $23.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Grand Reserve, Bien Nacido, Santa Maria Valley – Candy shop aromas of sweet raspberry and tangy cranberry. Medium-bodied in the mouth, mineral qualities seem to overwhelm what fruit existed in the nose. Thins a bit, showing a metallic finish. $23.00

2001 Zinfandel, Mead Ranch Vineyard, Napa Valley – Pale red color conflicts with the port-like nose of spicy toffee and chocolate. Port-like integrated aromas show hints of blackberry and the mouthfeel is firm and structured. Spicy cinnamon finish. $25.00

1999 Syrah, Grand Reserve – from the foothills of the Sierra mountains in Nevada County. Aromas of vanilla and ground coffee with a tease of wood. Odd. Jammy mouth entry is tight that never evolves. $23.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Tall Trees Vineyard, Napa Valley – Aromas of some spice and dark fruit and then mostly dusty dark chocolate. The flavors are at first jammy but finish with green olive. $15.00

Conn Creek Winery/Villa Mt. Eden ~
      8711 Silverado Trail ~
      St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-9100

I’ve had a lot of folks asking when I was going to blog Darioush. The brainchild and love child of Persian-born Khaledi Darioush, this is truly a landmark in the Napa Valley for it is not a Tuscan villa, a French château, or any form of modern temple.

What Khaledi did was reach back into his heritage and create what is known affectionately in the valley as the "Persian Palace." Referencing the historical Persepolis, which was the capital of the Achaemenid Empire founded by Darius the First in 518 BC. The Napa version is huge, ostentatious, and decidedly exhilarating.

The walkway towards the building is lined with sixteen columns, which I believe area almost twenty-feet high. Each column is topped with a bull figure, derived from the Babylonian bull, an important mythological creature from the story of Gilgamesh. The grounds surrounding the building include long, cool fountains with lotus flowers, historic wine vessels (amphoras) scattered amidst flowers, and a number of sculptures which are oddly modern in this ode to ancient history. During the summer, there has been some tents set up to invite guests to stay and linger, out of the bright sunlight.

The tasting room is a delight in light and air. The columns theme continues, with a tremendously huge centerpiece of flowers drawing one’s eye to the tasting area. The surrounding area includes a fireplace, some lovely items for sale, mostly of an historic theme including recreation ceramics, Persian pistachios, and Middle Eastern cookbooks. There are also a scattering of Eames chairs around shattered glass tables (the glass is shattered but contained, giving it a crackled look).

2001 Red Table Wine – 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc. Medium red in color, dark earthy aromas of spice, hints of green bell pepper, with an undercore of oak. Black fruit on the mouth entry that is very fruit forward. Anise shows in the mid-palate with dusty cocoa and espresso on the finish. $38.00

2004 Signature Viognier – 100% Viognier. Sweet nose with honeydew, white peach, and floral qualities. Tangy entry that blossoms to show bright acidity. Creamy finish that has a bit of a bite. $34.00

2003 Signature Chardonnay – Classic California Chardonnay with creamy butterscotch up front. Layers of white fig and melon in the mouth feel with a core of apple. Rich and creamy finish. $41.00

2002 Signature Merlot – 100% Merlot. Dark, concentrated purple color. In the nose, blueberry and brambleberry. Hot, alcoholic entry of dark currant with layers of spicy oak. There is some cocoa in the finish, but is a bit too hot to detect. $44.00

2002 Signature Shiraz – Distinct blackberry liqueur in a rich bouquet that subsides to show some soy sauce and barbecue meat. Stunning aroma that anticipates the mouth entry but gets a bit hotter, showing licorice and cocoa. $64.00

2002 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon – 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1.5% Petite Verdot, and 1.5% Malbec. At 14.8% alcohol, I thought this wine intensely hot. I could sense dark berry but underneath and in the flavor was espresso and oak with hints of cedar. $68.00

Darioush ~

William Hill Winery is one of those belonging to the large conglomerate of Allied Domecq. But I, for one, see nothing wrong with the continuing globalization of wineries — in many ways, it adds to consistency and stability; something that many smaller, family-owned wineries are unable to obtain.

Considering its physical size, William Hill is also one of those off-the-beat-and-track, compared to many sitting directly on Highway 29 or the Silverado Trail. It is on a backroad, off Atlas Peak Drive, in what is considered the Silverado Bench. I have classified this winery under three different appellations; the Atlas Peak Appellation, where their Chardonnay and some premium Cabernet Sauvignon is grown, Carneros, where they have 80-some acres of additional Chardonnay, and the Napa Appellation, for much of their remaining grape supply.  I understand that there are powers at work to make the Silverado Bench a new appellation within the Napa Valley and I hope to come back to this listing in the future to update it.

There is a long, grand twisting driveway that leads to where the buildings lie. The grounds are certainly worth a stroll because the facilities sit just a bit higher on the property, providing a sweeping view of the south end of Napa that is quite incomparable. Granted, there are mountain wineries which offer a different perspective, but this one is quite special.

The tasting room itself is bright and open with a touch of modern art in its austerity. Adjacent to the tasting bar, is a large, full-length open window which shows the cellaring of barrels; hundreds and hundreds of barrels. There are two tastings; the Napa Valley Tasting includes three wines for $5.00, or the Estate Tasting which is four wines for $10.00. I opted for both, wanting to taste across the spectrum, with the exception of the Chardonnay (as I had been tasting nothing but red all day, I wasn’t ready to go back):

2001 Malbec – 88% Malbec, 8% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. A tease of soy sauce and barbecue in its Syrah-like aromas, under which explodes dark berry fruit and a hint of strawberry. Subtle oak tendencies show in the initial taste, heightened by up-front acidity, a decidedly blueberry mid-palate, and an integrated, woody finish. $30.00

2001 Merlot – 88% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Opulent bouquet of boysenberries, dark plum, and hints of rustic herbs. Even, balanced entry brightens a bit showing smooth fruit. Not a fruit bomb by any stretch, with a slightly tinny finish. $20.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, and 2% Petite Verdot. Immediate aroma of vanilla and then fruit which is pretty strong and forward. A second swirl shows oak, cassis, blueberry, and black cherry. The mouth entry is bright but layers into depths that include all the fruit plus some leather. Slightly dry finish but opulent and smooth. $22.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petite Verdot, and 1% Merlot. Dark berry liqueur with a hint of soy sauce. Sweet entry with a chew mid-palate. Heightened acidity shows touches of sweet cherry in the finish. $35.00

2002 Petite Sirah – 80% Petite Sirah, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Merlot. Dark, inky purple color with ripe plum liqueur tones. Behind the sweetness of the liqueur are darker barbecued meat and sweet soy sauce. Full, rich aromas don’t provide the ‘pow’ factor in the first sip and the wine smells fruitier than it tastes. The smooth, easy-drinking wine displays a ‘pop’ in the mid-palate and a nice, lingering finish. $30.00

William Hill Winery ~ 1761 Atlas Peak Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707.224.5424

Bob Broman has been making wine for some very respectable wineries the likes of which include St. Supery, Guenoc, and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars for over three decades.  It is no wonder, then, that he would get the itch to put the Broman name on a bottle of his very own making, now known as Broman Cellars.

To further that dream, Bob Broman started making his own Cabernet in 1994, just over 150 cases… Now, almost a decade later, he and his wife, Deborah Russell Broman, have purchased a little over eleven acres on Deer Park Road, just on the edge of the Howell Mountain appellation. Here, along with Deborah’s daughter, Lisa Augustine, this family endeavor is literally starting from the ground up. Having purchased a home which doubles as their office, ground is being dug out for caves, Cabernet vines are being planted and, before we know it, the Broman Winery and Tasting room will be open and available for sales.

Not generally open to the public, I was very honored that the family invited me into their home to meet them and taste their wines. Lisa acts as their sales and family representative. The entire family (down to the dogs and cats) are affable and warm, happy to answer the silliest of questions but also excited at the prospects of folks like me who are intrigued with their product.

Because there is no formal tasting room, the Bromans aren’t exactly set up for visitors, but might consider an occasional tour, depending on their busy schedule. Until then, Tasting on Main in St. Helena is an excellent outlet to purchase and possibly taste one of Broman’s offerings. Regardless, try and find a bottle — this is a label to watch for now and in the future!

2002 Broman Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc – Fermented in small bins of stainless steel, this wine saw no oak but still surprisingly offers some rustic, creamy aromas. Pleased that there was not the traditional grassy bouquet, I was instead tantalized with gooseberry and a fresh apple very reminiscent of the most elegant of French ciders. The tangy entry was almost not there, but expanded into a clean citrus with a bright, easy finish with nary a hint of astringency. $16.00

1999 Broman Napa Valley Cabernet – 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc, with fruit sourced from Howell Mountain Vineyards from what was then Chateau Woltner, this wine predominates with dark cocoa and black cherry aromas. A hint of dustiness in the mid-palate subsides to produce roasted meat and barbecue qualities with its well-balanced tannins and supple finish. $54.00

2000 Broman Napa Valley Cabernet – 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet. Also from the same Chateau Woltner vineyards on Howell Mountain, this intensely complex wine provides rich, dark earthy tones of dark brambleberry and chocolate covered cherries. An overtly vibrant mouth entry backs off to produce soft, easy tannins and a tease of mint at the end. Smooth and easy to consume now but will continue to soften and intensify over the next eight or ten years. $44.00

2001 Broman Napa Valley Cabernet – An as-yet-unreleased wine, this fruit came from the Dr. Crane vineyards behind St. Helena High School. Amazingly smooth with spiced berry and hints of cedar in the nose. A jammy, Merlot-like smoothness with layered flavors of cinnamon, clove, cassis, and mocha. Kept going and going and going…  $48.00

2000 Broman Napa Valley Syrah – 98% Syrah and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Bright, mineral and blueberry aromas showed hints of subdued barbecue, molasses tones. Big, meaty mouth entry continued the subtle spicy qualities with even more integrated spices and hints of toast. $30.00

Broman Cellars ~ 945 Deer Park Road ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5451

In a way, this posting is cheating. How? Well, technically speaking, there is no TwoTone Farm. I found no architectural monstrosity of a tasting room; no nubile tasting room attendants anxious to shove another wine club down some unsuspecting tourist’s throat; no bounty of wine-related t-shirts and bar accoutrement with which to decorate my yet-to-be-constructed private wine cellar. But TwoTone Farm IS a legitimate wine and its discovery has become an inspiration.

The inspiration lies in what is referred to as QPR: Quality Price Ratio. In this case, I have been introduced to a very drinkable Napa Valley Cabernet that sells in the $10 range (okay, I believe it was meant to retail for $14.99, but I found it on Wine.com for $9.99). Just as interesting is the wine’s lack of promotion by the producer, Beringer Blass except for a very cool CD of local alternative San Francisco bands entitled TwoTone Farm – napa Valley comes unscrewed. [sic] I was given one of the CDs because Tres Goetting was not only a Winemaker on the project, but also as a performing bass player on the CD in The Errol Previde Quartet.

Tres (at the time working at St. Clement Vineyards), along with winemaker Danielle Cyrot (from Stags’ Leap Winery), created this wine as part of a side project. Young and cutting edge, the entire packaging promotes a screw-cap, trendy fonts, and Gen-X-like dialogue on the labels such as "Not afraid to think outside the cork." I can’t help but wonder if the marketing of this great wine has faltered now that Tres is no longer involved in the project — having moved on to Ladera Vineyards, Cyrot is the name that is being associated with the wine at this time. Looking for the wine could be a struggle, but it is well worth the effort…

2002 TwoTone Farm Cabernet Sauvignon – Immediate nose of oak and berry which expands to fresh cherry. Obvious grape entry in the mouth that surprises to develop into rich and deep flavors. Old-world vanilla flavors dominate in a quality rarely seen in wines this inexpensive. Easy drinking and unpretentious. $9.99