Ultimate California Wine Blog

I’ve had a lot of friends asking me to head to Frank Family Vineyards for some time. One reason is that I am especially drawn to historical locations. In this case, while the Frank family themselves have only been in the wine industry since the early 1990s, the location and some of the remaining buildings date back to the early 1880s.

It is the front building that has been ‘plaqued’ as an historic landmark, having once been the Larkmead Winery (which now has me on an investigative journey to go and visit the new home of Larkmead as it seems the patriarch sold this estate in the 1950s).

During my visit, the historical building in the front was closed down. I was there on a weekend so I can only assume the building is used for winemaking in some fashion, but I did not get to peer inside and who knows – maybe it is just there for storage these days… There is a smaller, house-like structure behind the stone edifice which now acts as the hospitality suite and tasting room.

The entrance to the tasting is somewhat of an anteroom that acts as the location of the cash register as well as where some bubbly is tasted first. After a bit of sparkling, you wander through a hallway of some several thousand photographs of friends and family. The second tasting room lies in the back of the house and not only contains memorabilia of Rich Frank’s former life as chairman of Walt Disney’s musical division (this means there are gold records on the wall). The grounds are lovely to walk around and some picnic tables sitting behind the back building seem inviting as they were already half full.

2000 Champagne Reserve – Yep, they call it Champagne and not "sparkling wine." Four months on French oak and five years on yeast, finished with Remi cognac (that would actually be Carneros-based RMS Alembic that went out of business several years ago and sold off barrels of their product). Very smooth and nice with flavors of apple and hazelnut. Decent combination of sweetness and yeast. $55.00

NV Rouge – 100% Pinot Noir. Light almondine garnet colored. Slightly fishy aroma with bright cranberry flavors and a metallic finish. $27.75

2004 Chardonnay – They call it liquid creme brulee in a glass. At a 100% malo having spent two months in French oak, this wine has pretty thick banana aromas with some caramel and toffee. Viscous and vanilla-flavored, the wine was still tight and possibly suffering from bottle shock. $32.50

2003 Zinfandel – From Browns Valley. They call this the Velvet Hammer. (Seems they name all their wine). At 16% alcohol, this is a pretty heady wine showing strong black plum and blackberry aromas with a back-nose of chocolate. The mouth entry was relatively soft but explodes with black licorice. Spice and chocolate present themselves before the dark plummy finish. $34.95

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – An initial tease of green bell pepper subsided with a swirl and produced more pronounced mushroom and dark fruit. Distinct cedar taste on first taste which evolved to produce dusty cocoa and a hint of eucalyptus. The tannins were balanced and even and the core finish was meaty blackberry. $39.75

2000 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – From Rutherford. Dark, inky purple wine that seemed mostly comprised of chocolate. Huge, brawny tannins brightened to chewy cranberry flavors. Needs time. $65.00

Frank Family Vineyards ~ 1091 Larkmead Lane ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 800-574-9463

There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle-ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man’s fears and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area we call the ‘Twilight Zone.’ Those were the words that Rod Serling used to open what could arguably be called the most influential television show of the 1950s. It is also the feeling that one experiences when spending time at Rancho de las Flores (no website link available) owned by Ralph Wermuth.

Located just off the Silverado Trail, this is a winery that could very easily be driven past if you are not paying very close attention. The small house and the building that acts as the tasting room lie behind such overgrown shrubbery that the Twilight Zone analogy is not far from the truth. One wonders if there is anything behind the massive foliage. The building is extremely non-descript and a bit worn. As we approached, a gentleman followed behind us and we had the pleasure of meeting proprietor, Ralph Wermuth.

The Twilight Zone feeling continued as Ralph is definitely a character. Indicating I was in the industry, he started asking if we had as much problem with the "other countries’ trade barriers" as he did. He is obviously concerned about those "other countries." I implied that we did not really export to Europe yet but were just beginning to work on that. "No, not Europe," he emphasized. "The other countries like Massachusetts and those damn trade barriers!" Distinctly odd… The tasting room? Well, the cobwebs were evident, the glasses were dirty, and the wine was, well… interesting, to say the least. But spending a few minutes with Ralph is worth a visit.

White Wine – I’m serious. That is what his label reads. A viscous, dark yellow, it is mostly Colombard grapes with a splash of Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of a biting apple cider with harsh minerals. The entry is sweet with a tang in the middle. Mostly grassy flavors and a harsh finish. $12.00

Amigo Viejo – 100% Gamay. Biting sweet nose. Chewy blackberry that showed oxidization. Strident to the point of painful with a biting, metallic finish. $15.00

Rancho de las Flores Cellars ~ 3942 Silverado Trail ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 707-942-5924

So I’m driving around the Kenwood area and stumble on Kaz Winery which, oddly enough, has Landmark Winery as their landmark. Okay, that was pretty lame, I know… Landmark actually has quite a reputation and is one of those select few wineries who specialize making FIVE different Chardonnays, three different Pinot Noir, and — oh yes — a Syrah.

The entrance toward the Spanish-style mission building structure is elegant and rather perfectly manicured. It lies right on the main thoroughfare between the town of Sonoma and the city of Santa Rosa. Known as the community of Kenwood, it is home to a handful of some of the most prestigious Chardonnay producers in wine country.

The Landmark estate has some stunning landscaping features. The entrance itself is an archway of amethyst morning glories. Leading to the tasting room, a few steps beyond that brings visitors to a tiled outdoor fountain, hidden walkways, and a small, private picnic area.

The tasting room is itself a work of art – or at least the wall behind the tasting bar is a work of art. The Chardonnay grapevine mural truly takes one’s breath away.

2002 "Courtyard" Chardonnay – 100% malo usually tells me to prepare for butter bombs. Instead, this medium-bodied, pale straw colored wine showed light tropical aromas. The mouth feel showed bright acidity and a bit of mineral on the mid-palate. $15.00

2003 Overlook Chardonnay – Their flagship white, also 100% malo, this one a bit darker in its golden hue and heftier in the nose. Butter lemon and clean aromas provided balanced, well-integrated fruit with a touch of cream. $25.00

2002 Damaris Reserve Chardonnay – Almost cloyingly rich bouquet of marshmallow and toffee. Not over oaked or buttery displaying distinct layers of mineral and defined fruit. $34.00

2002 Lorenzo Chardonnay – The richest and most full-bodied of the lot. Spicy white peach and honey framed minerals and toasted nuts. $45.00

2001 Grand Detour Pinot Noir – Warm, rich cherry aromas anticipate the complex cherry mouth entrance. Spice appears in the middle and the finish is a touch sweet. $70.00/1.5L

2002 Grand Detour Pinot Noir – Rather classic medium-bodied offering, giving well-developed red fruit flavors seamlessly integrated with earthiness that ends a bit dry. $30.00

2001 Kastania Pinot Noir – Mushroom predominates plummy fruit. The entry was a tad thin but expands into darker spice characteristics and more bright red fruit on the finish. $100.00/1.5L

2003 Steel Plow Syrah – Floral, blossomy aromas expand into spicy black liqueur. Fabulously rich, sweet nose, even though it was a bit tight. A swirl or two brought out some spice. Dark, heady mouth feel giving a hint of sweet black licorice on the back-palate with heightened acidity. Complex and caressing. $24.00

Landmark Winery ~ 101 Adobe Canyon Road ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-0053

I love it when wineries are slightly off-kilter. Favorites in the past have included Gundlach-Bundschu, Bonny Doon, and Roshambo. Now I can add Kaz Winery to that list. Several weeks ago the folks at Kaz dropped me an e-mail. Seems they had been reading the blog and wanted me to give them a visit the next time I was in the Kenwood neighborhood. Well, I am pleased to say that I stumbled on them quite by accident and while I always appreciate a personal invite to a winery, sometimes I have much more fun sneaking in under the radar.

Finding Kaz takes a little bit of work. They are located on a small side road behind the Landmark Vineyard and took some hunting. There is a small metal sign (picture above) at the base of the vineyards which surround their winery. But it is small and a relatively drab color which, on an overcast day, somewhat melded into the surrounding grey atmosphere. But a few feet further at the base of the entrance, flies this bright yellow flag which, when the wind dies down enough to read what seems to be hand-drawn glyphs, reads Kaz! There was some local community tasting (having to do with Chardonnays and Pinots, I think) on the day of my visit, but despite the fact that I did not have the appropriate color bracelet on during my visit, I was still treated with the same acerbic wit as everyone else in the tasting room.

As near as I can tell, the entire business complex — tasting room and wine-making facilities — are all located within a single a-frame barn. Getting to the building means driving through some vineyards, past a small rural home or two, and parking on an adjacent gravel lot.

The tasting room is small and cozy and has many interesting touches. The counters are course with patterns of leaves inset deep within the rich, textured surface. "Oh, my husband, Rick, made that." the ebullient blond exclaimed. As it turns out, Rick makes a lot of things around the winery, like the wine!

Rick Kasmier and wife, Sandi, are the proprietors and with tongue firmly planted in cheek, are not only producing organic wines, but also hilarious ad campaigns, artistically enticing labels, and a line of fascinatingly flavored mustards! My only complaint lies in the information on their website; their story (and names!) are only found within a Sunset article and not readily available through their site. One other point – as these are 100% organic wines, they tend to be slightly higher in acidity. I realized that much of the adjectives that continually crept up in my notes was bright. All of the wines, overall, are bright with heightened acidity.

2004 Blusche Trachet – Made from Nebbiolo Rosso, this rosé had a sweet aroma but not overtly candy-shop sweet. With 1% residual sugar, the hint of sweetness is well-sculpted. Layered exotic spice that is subtle and smooth. Clean and bright. $15.00

2004 Trixie’s Secret – Another rosé of Nebbiolo Rosso, but this one is bone dry. Still a hint of sweetness but deeper and more integrated and balanced. Clean and deep with a long developed finish. Great fun and easy to drink. $15.00

2003 Hoi Polloi Pinot Noir – Bouquet of fresh raspberry and cherry with undertones of earth and spice. Sweetish entry and a candy mid-palate. Brightens on this finish with a touch of minerality. $35.00

2000 Somwein – A blend of 60% Zinfandel, 25% Alicante Bouchet, and 15% Petite Sirah. Dusty floral aroma with some funk in the back of the nose. Sweet on the initial mouth entry but not deep. A light-bodied zinfandel blend. $30.00

2001 Flying Star – 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. Tremendously clean eucalyptus under which displays heaps of red fruit. Mostly floral on the tongue and more of those heightened acids on the finish. $32.00

2000 Klinch – 92% Syrah and 8% Alicante Bouchet. Some mint and then full, round candied dark fruit. Light thin entry and a decidedly tangy finish. $34.00

2003 Bravura, Barbera - More sweet red candy fruit on the nose. Bright, thin entry showing some candied red cinnamon with a bit of thin tin on the end. $30.00

White Port – Made from a Chardonnay. Sweet white flowers, blooming and exuding throughout a field on a hot afternoon leaving a longing, rustic spice in the back of the throat. Stunningly well-integrated and smooth. $25.00

2001 Syrah Port – Purple hyacinth flowers covered in dust. Sweet on the tongue with plummy tones. Tangy and acidic with a tease of cardamom. $30.00

Tawny Port – Made from the classic Portuguese grapes grown in Amador. Surprisingly ruby color, considering it is a tawny. Deep, dark spice with layers of nuts. Sweet entry showing jammy fruits in the mid-palate and a long finish teasing between provincial fruit and roasted hazelnut. $40.00

Kaz Winery ~ 233 Adobe Canyon Road ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-2536

St. Francis Winery is one of the larger, more well-known wineries established in the Sonoma area. It is a winery that was started in the early 70s and has grown exponentially, now negotiating grapes from top-shelf growers from all over Sonoma.

As an homage to St. Francis of Assisi, for whom the winery is dedicated, the buildings are distinctly modeled after the classic California missions that speckle the state. The facilities include three separate wine-tasting bars, visitors center, and surroundings gardens. The winery hosts of a variety of events including aroma workshops and taste explorations.

They offer three different tastings; the Classic Wine Tasting is $5.00 which is much of the standard wine found in larger grocery stores such as their Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, the Reserve Wine Tasting priced at $10.00 includes many of the more obscure grapes such as Viognier and Syrah, and a special Reserve Wine & Food Pairing which occurs every hour on weekends for $20 for four tastes and four bites.

I opted for the Reserve Tasting but plan on going back for the Wine & Food Pairing.

2003 Chardonnay, Behler Reserve, Sonoma Valley – Extremely lemony color shows tremendous, almost viscous buttery entry that has layers of green apple. The finish heightens with acidity and lemon tones. $22.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Neras Family Ranch, Russian River Valley – A potentially single offering of this varietal – the grapes were offered and because St. Francis had never produced a Pinot before, instead of adding to the expense of presenting a Pinot in a properly shaped Burgundy bottle, they instead simply bottled it in a Bordeaux-shaped bottle. Classic aromas of integrated earth and cherry, although the cherry seemed darker and a bit more cooked than usual. The mouth entry was initially sweet but blossomed to demonstrate darker mushroom qualities with a spicy, mineral finish. $30.00

2002 Petite Sirah, Zichichi Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley – Astonishing liqueur-like nose of a Zinfandel port. Intensely sweet nose of cooked black fruit with deep earthy notes. Balanced and well-integrated with a distinct, long finish. $40.00

2002 Zinfandel, Bacchi Vineyard, Russian River Valley – From 75 year-old vines. Jammy, smoky blackberry starts the bouquet which finishes with distinct minty eucalyptus and a depth of chocolate. Sweetish entry shows tastes of a tangy chocolate Andes mint. $35.00

2002 Zinfandel, Pagani Vineyard, Sonoma Valley – From 117 year-old vines. Lighter bodied than the previous offering, with bright, dusty violet aromas. Supple mouth feel that has a heightened acidic mid-palate but finishes long and smooth. $45.00

2001 Anthem Meritage, Sonoma Valley – A blend of Petite Verdot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot (in no particular order or volume). Aromas of intense spicy blackberry jam and dusty floral. While the aromas were exotic and enticing, the mouth entry is more simple and basic – a slight disappointment considering the aroma. Easy with some deep, well-developed herbal qualities. $55.00

St. Francis Winery ~ 100 Pythian Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95409 ~ 707-543-7713