Ultimate California Wine Blog

Dick Steltzner was born and raised in in Northern California and was inspired early on to enter the wine industry with Ernst Wente as his mentor. After college and some savvy real estate dealings which got him a small piece of property in the Stag’s Leap District, Dick found himself in the business of vineyard management. This was the 1970s.

By 1980 he started making his own wine in a building that had been constructed in 1915 as a prune dehydrating shed. Converting that building into a winery, his production grew from 3,000 cases to 5,000 by 1990. Now there is a Mediterranean-style complex in place of the prune building, and the business is up to 15,000 cases a year.

Now Dick has daughter Allison at his side, learning the ropes and ready to continue her father’s legacy. The wines are classic Bordeaux varietals, expected for the Stag’s Leap appellation, but a few additional surprises await. The tasting room is intimate, with a living room ensemble and a baby grand piano in the corner.

The staff is helpful, offering tasting comments as the wine is being poured. I actually prefer to make my own determinations before having flavors indicated, but I can certainly see the benefit to newbie wine tasters who are still learning about flavors that are in wine. I still took my own notes, not relying on what I was being told…

2004 Chardonnay, Oak Knoll Estate – No malo in the wine which was 100% fermented in stainless stell. Overt tropical fruits of pineapple and kiwi presented on the nose. Rich floral tones and easy entry. Complex white peach finish. $18.00

2004 Rosé of Shiraz – Fascinating offering. Meaty raspberry and a hint of strawberry on the nose that is not sweet, but deep. Medium to thin entry that shows some peach a minerals on the mid-palate. A bit more mineral finish that desired. Curious that they are growing Shiraz, but making a rosé with it. $18.00

2002 Merlot, Stags Leap District – Dusty twig and floral tones that subside to show some cherry and dark berry.  Juicy entry with muted tannins. $26.00

2001 Sangiovese – Possibly opened the day before as oxidized notes predominate. I did detect raspberry under the dusty twig with a faint whiff of licorice. $38.00

2002 Claret – 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 30% Merlot. Jammy blackberry with integrated sweet black licorice in its core. A faint hint of green bell pepper just hides behind, classic Stags Leap District. The rich, oppulent nose follows into the initial mouthfeel, showing spice and dark fruit but finishes a bit chalky and dry. $16.00

1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District – Bricky red in color with obvious age. Smoky twigs and soft berries show in the nose. Medium bodied in the mouth feel displaying muted flavors despite the spicy nose. A bit of sen-sen burn in the back of the throat. $36.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District – Purplish in color, very bright and very fresh in tone. Cinnamon spice and hints of green olive are coupled with the fresh fruit. Juicy and long finish. $36.00

NV Terraces Merlot Port – Berry jam and black licorice couple with integrated dusty twig bouquet. The initial taste is decidedly sweet with the lovely spices being slightly toned down. $34.00/375ml

Steltzner Vineyards ~ 5998 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-252-7272

Gundlach Bundschu has always prided itself on being the oldest family-owned winery in North America. However, the Bundschu family had to shut down their winery during Prohibition so the next in line for claim to fame goes to Wente, who is the oldest family-owned continually operating winery, dating back to 1883. Right in the middle of Livermore!

There are actually two separate places to visit and taste Wente wines in Livermore. I stumbled on to the one on Tesla, but only later learned there was a "visitor center" on Arroyo Road. From the looks of their website, the Arroyo Road location also provides wine tastings but might be the prettier of the two, as it is available for wedding rentals. There are also signs around for a concert series so I imagine the other location has significantly bigger facilities. This was not an eyesore by any means, however.

The Tesla Road set of buildings includes a tasting room that is actually two small octagonal buildings; one being a bar-in-the-round and the other the gift shop. The tasting area is surrounded by stone walls on which artworks are displayed, with exhibits changing in rotation. The folks pouring are pleasant and informative, but choose wisely. This is one of those companies that almost produce too much to taste in one sitting. I cherry-picked my tastings, thus:

NV Reserve Brut, Arroyo Seco and Monterey – 48% Pinot Noir and 52% Pinot Blanc. Hint of yeast and citrus that produced both a clean, dry entry. Easy, but unexceptional. $14.95

2003 Riesling, Vineyard Selection, 78% Arroyo Seco, 22% Monterey – At 2.20% residual sugar, this wine has been tempered with 24% Gewurztraminer. Initial overt aroma of orange blossom which anticipated a sweetness that did not reveal itself in the mouth entry, to my delight. With as much residual sugar as this wine had, this wine had the potential to be a sugar bomb. Instead, while it was definitely sweet, the hint of spiciness and integrated melon, peach, and honeysuckle flavors were quite pleasant. $8.95

2003 The Nth Degree Chardonnay – Clear, bright lemony yellow color. Butter and lemon predominate with a layer of lemon peel and kiwi. Surprisingly sweet entry in the mouth that touches on sweet apple, dairy butter, and a hint of toast. $35.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Reliz Creek Reserve, Arroyo Seco, Monterey – Great fruity nose of raspberry, dark cherry, and a hint of smoky earth. Unfortunately, the bright engaging nose was lost on the mouth entry which was harsh and metallic with a strident finish. $17.95

2002 Merlot, Crane Ridge Reserve – 79% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Barbera. Liqueur-like  aromas of dark, elegant plum, exotic wood, and heady spice. Clean, smooth mouth entry with a balanced finish. $17.95

2002 Syrah, Vineyard Selection – 75% Syrah, 19% Barbera, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Stunning pomegranate aromas just barely concealing dark cherry and hints of earth. Port-like entry that was a bit sweet but blossomed to show integration of roasted coffee and black strawberries. $12.95

2002 Small-Lot Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah – 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46% Syrah. Dark, clear purple color with bouquet of dark brambleberry and subtle tones of spice. Very smooth entry that was a tad hot in the mid-palate. I’m confident the heat will subside with aging. Vanilla finish is rich and clean. $45.00

Wente Vineyards Tasting Room ~ 5565 Tesla Road ~ Livermore ~ CA ~ 94550 ~ 925-456-2305
Wente Vineyards Visitor’s Center ~ 5050 Arroyo Road ~ Livermore ~ CA ~ 94550 ~ 925-456-2405

Greg Graziano is a very, very busy man. Having inherited vineyards that were planted by his grandfather in 1918, he has successfully established FOUR different labels under which he produces an astounding 30 to 40 different wines (I truly never could get an exact number, so this is a guess).

The Saint Gregory label is the first one that was established. Under this label are wines of the Burgundian ilk. Monte Volpe means "fox mountain" and this brand is for the development of Tuscan red varietals and whites from Friuli. Enotria is Greek for "land of wine" and was developed to promote Piemonte varietals. Lastly, under the Graziano label, are the classic Mendocino varietals; Zinfandels and Petite Sirahs.

I was extremely fortunate that it was a quiet morning during my visit and the lovely lady behind the counter was patient with me as I tried through all the labels and all the wines. I was doubly more fortunate that instead of working through one label at a time, and possibly forcing me to jump to-and-from whites and reds, she laid them out in the order in which they should be tasted. My suggestion is to really only pick a few and not attempt to go through the twenty+ that I did…

Enotria Arneis, Mendocino; Uvaggio Isabella – Enotria is Greek for "Land of Many Grapes" and Arneis is a very unusual varietal with a Piedmont heritage. Pale yellow color with decidedly delightful green apple and pear aromas. Very crisp entry that brightens into a tang in the mid-palate. Long finish with pale herbs and bright fruit. $12.00

Monte Volpe Tocai Friulan, Mendocino – Grapefruit, ripe lemon, and sweet floral tones in the nose. Not overwhelming, but well-integrated. While there was a sweetness in the bouquet, the entry was an engaging spicy crispness. There was a hint of sweetness in the center, but a long, supple finish balances out. $10.00

2002 Monte Volpe Primo Bianco, Mendocino – A blend of Arneis, Tocai, Pinot Grigio, Moscato, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay grapes. Clean lemon peel and faint tropical notes in the nose. Clean and easy with a brightness of peach and a slightly creamy finish. $10.00

Graziano Rose of Carignane – Intensely delightful aroma of sweet red apples and strawberries. Great acidity and long, structured finish. Too much fun! $12.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Potter Valley – Brownish tinge around a bricky orange/red tone. Warm strawberry and earthy dark fruit aromas. Surprisingly sweet tones in its core with a balanced, even finish that is engaging. $16.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Mendocino – Slightly oxidized with a hint of hospital smell. Thin red fruit with a metallic finish. $16.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Romani Vineyards – A more bretty example of Pinot with dusty, dried twigs in front of mature strawberry flavors. $22.00

2001 Monte Volpe Sangiovese, Mendocino – Decidedly cinnamon tones along with the bright, acidic fruit. Easy and relatively simply. $16.00 Note: This wine was tasted blind along side the following — I was only told that one was bio-dynamic and one was not. Seemed I preferred the bio-dynamic Sangiovese:

2001 Monte Volpe Sangiovese, Bio-Dynamic, Fox Creek Vineyard – Rustic and spicy in structure with an engaging hint of a spicy, candied apple. Tangy entry with some dried floral notes just hidden, but more engaging.

2001 Monte Volpe Primo Rosso – A blend of Barbera, Zinfandel, and Dolcetto. Dark, dusty spice with dried floral qualities. Sweet-like mouth entry of bing cherry and blackberry with a rich, dark spicy mid-palate and dark, floral finish. No price available.

2000 Enotria Dolcetto, Mendocino - "Zinfandel in Merlot’s clothing" was the description given to us by our pourer. Also known as "the little sweet one" because it is so easy to grow. A tease of spice behind the berry fruit. Balance acidity and very easy, fruity wine. Some hints of earth and vanilla on the finish. $14.00

2001 Enotria Barbera – Rustic with dark, dusty spice. Very engaging upon entry with dark cherry and dried lavender and heather in the core. 14.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Potter Valley, Kazmet Vineyards – Dusty cocoa tones with a hint of eucalyptus. Heightened tannic entry of jammy fruit. A tad metallic in the mid-palate with a dry, peppery finish. $24.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Robert Parker Ranch – Spicy dark fruit with ample brambleberry. Softer entry than the aromas portend. Spicy mid-palate and a juicy, full-bodied finish. $22.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Mendocino – Surprisingly sweet nose with a sherry/port-like sweet entry. Liqueur-sweet berry that would make one think it was a late-harvest! $24.00

2004 Enotria Muscato – Engaging aromas of sweet green herbs, ripe pear, and fresh green apple. More green apple on the entry and mid-palate that is a bit sweeter than anticipated. A punctuated, acidic tang on the finish would make it a great cheese wine for dessert, served well-chilled. 12.00

Graziano Family of Wines ~ 13251 S. Highway 101, Ste. 3 ~ Hopland ~ CA ~ 95449 ~ 707-744-8466

Vineyard 29 is a relative new-comer on the block. While their first vintage was officially produced in 1992, it was the completion of their astonishing gravity-method wine-making facility which was finished in 2001 that put them on the map. Okay, maybe having Heidi Barrett-Peterson as their winemaker from 1992 until 1998 didn’t hurt…

Vineyard 29 is thus named because of its physical address: 2929 Highway 29. It was established in 1989 by Theresa Norton and Tom Paine who had to utilize the services of custom crush facility; i.e., they had the vineyards but not the wine making equipment or building. In early 2000, Theresa and Tom wanted to retire and found in Chuck and Anne McMinn a couple with enough passion to take over and expand the label.

And expand they did. After designing the most technologically-advanced facility feasible, they also began acquiring additional vineyards beyond the initial Grace Family Vineyards three acres purchased. Just a few miles north of where the winery was under construction, the Aida vineyards became available. Known for astounding Zinfandel and Petite Sirah grapes, the Aida vineyard and the Grace Family vineyards became the soul of the new Vineyard 29.

Besides being the most stunning gravity-method winery I’ve ever seen, another factor that adds to Vineyard 29’s allure is an ecological one; the winery is operated with three natural gas turbines. This is one of the many steps required to becoming a Green winery and apparently the applications are already in place for that status.

The 13,000 feet of caves are a continuation of the marvel of engineering. It is only when you walk in that motion sensors begin to illuminate the cavern. It was noticeably cooler as I could sense air actually being moved, I inquired about air conditioning. No; condenser fans pull in cool air from the nearby Sauvignon Blanc vineyards and provide a natural coolant to the interior.

The very rear of the cave portal is a storage facility of current and library wines. I was extremely fortunate to be able to provide the documentation for this visit, and while I  had the honor to meet Chuck and Ann during my tour, the facilities are not open to the public, except to those already on Vineyard 29’s acquisition list. After tasting the wines, this is a list I would like to be on:

2001 Aida Zinfandel – Slightly cloudy with concentrated dark brick tones on the edges. Aromas of dusty, dark blackberry and black cassis. It hits the tongue with spicy black licorice and immediately evens out with an opulent spicy liqueur tone of dark berry. Intense, lingering finish. $60.00

2001 Aida Red Wine – 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26 % Merlot. Brick red-edged color with dark purple core. Intense, concentrated plum and dark berry notes play with molasses on the nose. Moroccan spice components reveal cardamom and Nag Champa. Wild black strawberries enter the mouth and explode with elegant spice. Complex and elegant, a heightened acidity brightens the mid-palate and toys a bit, before smoothing out to a long, luxurious finish. $75.00

2001 Vineyard 29 – 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. I brought a few friends along and the initial response was "this is what angels drink in heaven…"  Teasing aromas of fig, blueberry, cinnamon, amber, and lignum aloes shows a dark floral tone with integrated spice. The mouth entry is as dark and spicy as it portends but surprises with a sweetening in the mid-palate. The licorice finish continues to entice and seems to never end. $125.

Vineyard 29 ~ 2929 Highway 29 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-9292

I’ve had a lot of folks asking when I was going to blog Darioush. The brainchild and love child of Persian-born Khaledi Darioush, this is truly a landmark in the Napa Valley for it is not a Tuscan villa, a French château, or any form of modern temple.

What Khaledi did was reach back into his heritage and create what is known affectionately in the valley as the "Persian Palace." Referencing the historical Persepolis, which was the capital of the Achaemenid Empire founded by Darius the First in 518 BC. The Napa version is huge, ostentatious, and decidedly exhilarating.

The walkway towards the building is lined with sixteen columns, which I believe area almost twenty-feet high. Each column is topped with a bull figure, derived from the Babylonian bull, an important mythological creature from the story of Gilgamesh. The grounds surrounding the building include long, cool fountains with lotus flowers, historic wine vessels (amphoras) scattered amidst flowers, and a number of sculptures which are oddly modern in this ode to ancient history. During the summer, there has been some tents set up to invite guests to stay and linger, out of the bright sunlight.

The tasting room is a delight in light and air. The columns theme continues, with a tremendously huge centerpiece of flowers drawing one’s eye to the tasting area. The surrounding area includes a fireplace, some lovely items for sale, mostly of an historic theme including recreation ceramics, Persian pistachios, and Middle Eastern cookbooks. There are also a scattering of Eames chairs around shattered glass tables (the glass is shattered but contained, giving it a crackled look).

2001 Red Table Wine – 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc. Medium red in color, dark earthy aromas of spice, hints of green bell pepper, with an undercore of oak. Black fruit on the mouth entry that is very fruit forward. Anise shows in the mid-palate with dusty cocoa and espresso on the finish. $38.00

2004 Signature Viognier – 100% Viognier. Sweet nose with honeydew, white peach, and floral qualities. Tangy entry that blossoms to show bright acidity. Creamy finish that has a bit of a bite. $34.00

2003 Signature Chardonnay – Classic California Chardonnay with creamy butterscotch up front. Layers of white fig and melon in the mouth feel with a core of apple. Rich and creamy finish. $41.00

2002 Signature Merlot – 100% Merlot. Dark, concentrated purple color. In the nose, blueberry and brambleberry. Hot, alcoholic entry of dark currant with layers of spicy oak. There is some cocoa in the finish, but is a bit too hot to detect. $44.00

2002 Signature Shiraz – Distinct blackberry liqueur in a rich bouquet that subsides to show some soy sauce and barbecue meat. Stunning aroma that anticipates the mouth entry but gets a bit hotter, showing licorice and cocoa. $64.00

2002 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon – 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1.5% Petite Verdot, and 1.5% Malbec. At 14.8% alcohol, I thought this wine intensely hot. I could sense dark berry but underneath and in the flavor was espresso and oak with hints of cedar. $68.00

Darioush ~