Ultimate California Wine Blog

I have been wanting to visit Spring Mountain for some time as there are quite a few famous names producing wines out of this illusive appellation. But I have wanted to visit the winery of Smith-Madrone far longer than I even knew what an appellation was. It was at a dinner party known as an "offline" — a small gathering of fellow wine geeks who meet over the internet ("online") and want to meet and share over good food. It was an elegant restaurant in Long Beach and Kriss Reed brought a Smith-Madrone wines which knocked my proverbial socks off. Now, all these years later, numerous failed attempts, and several months into my blogging, I finally made it up the mountain, to a sort of Mecca as it were…

Finding Smith-Madrone’s facility is not that easy. There are considerably more wineries on Spring Mountain than I anticipated and when you look at the map, it is hard to discern exactly how far up the mountain you must drive. There are obviously new wineries with bright, shiny new signs, and then there is Smith-Madrone’s signs; a little worn from age, showing both longevity and perseverance. A turn down an un-paved road makes one wonder if the right path has being taken. There is no electronic gate and no landscaped entranceway. Then you see the building. This is not an architectural landmark showcasing a winery’s ostentatious wealth. It is the work building of the Smith brothers, Stu and Charles.

I was extremely fortunate to find both Stu and Charles available on the day of my visit. Rugged and bearded both, they are effusively exuberant about their winery, their wine, and their history in the valley. Having established their winery in 1971, there are not many that can lay claim to what these brothers have done; for there are many Johnnie-come-latelys entering the valley and building wineries, but few do it with their own two hands, literally. Stu, in his 25th anniversary reminiscence recalls, "Charlie and I not only drove all of the stakes that you see around the winery but all of the stakes in the vineyard—a total of 19,000."

As a working man’s winery, tasting the wine is done in the building which holds the barrels as well as the work table. No frills, no tchotchkes, no high-pressure sell. This is not a winery one goes to for a logo t-shirt. You stand around a barrel, occasionally walking over to the sink if you want to rinse or spit. Making only 3,500 cases, they have limited themselves to just three varietals; Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Riesling.

As you look around, you see some cobwebs, some older bottles, and then comes Oreo, the winery cat. Oreo himself is worth the price of admission (free, by the way). He is entirely black save for a some nominal white spots; nose, tail tip, and paw tips. While one thinks that Stu or Charles runs the winery, it is more than evident that Oreo the cat is the real boss, showing his perturbance at not being loved and petted when demanded. Yes, there is no hesitance to indicate that an immense amount of love exists at Smith Madrone; love of the land’s inhabitants and love of the land itself. It is this type of tie to the land that shows in the wine. Of course there is good wine to be had at the large, corporate-owned wineries, but somehow Stu and Charlie’s wines taste different; they taste special.

2003 Chardonnay – Astonishingly exotic aromas of lemon and herbs with dark, elegant floral tones. The entry is tangy and tantalizing, but subdues to show lemon meringue in the mid-palate and long, creamy finish. There is a hint of malo, but it does not become an over-wrought butter bomb, instead taming the fruit into distinct integration. $25.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Aromas of dark pepper and earthy root vegetables shows with cassis and dark fruit. Chewy upon entry, black currant and black pepper teased the mouth with a long, spicy finish. $35.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon – 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. Dark, purple core with red edges, this concentrated, inky demonstrated jammy blackberry aromas with a hint of purple bell pepper and dark spice. The swarthy, exotic aromas continued with brambleberry and Moroccan incense. Having just been bottled, it was a tad tight, but promises to be a wine for long-term aging. $40.00

2004 Riesling – Made in the Alsatian style, with less than one percent residual sugar, this astonishing mountain wine at first provides floral aromas akin to Edelweiss and daisies, but deepens to display hints of key lime and white melon. With a core of minerality, the wine is at first bright and engaging, but finishes with a spicy elegance surprising in a California Riesling. $20.00

1999 Riesling – This was pretty special for the boys had re-released this well-aged wine, selling out almost immediately. They just happened to have one or two lying around to taste… Golden straw in color, the aromas were at once dark honeysuckle and white peach, but then brandy-like with complexity. The mouth entry was rich and creamy with a lingering sweetness, alluding to its 1.2% residual sugar. Who knew that a California Riesling had the potential for aging? It certainly had evolved, showing development in character. Herein lies a crusade of the Smith Brothers: "Drink Chardonnay and age Riesling."

Smith-Madrone ~ 4022 Spring Mountain Road ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~  94574 ~ 707- 963-2283

William Hill Winery is one of those belonging to the large conglomerate of Allied Domecq. But I, for one, see nothing wrong with the continuing globalization of wineries — in many ways, it adds to consistency and stability; something that many smaller, family-owned wineries are unable to obtain.

Considering its physical size, William Hill is also one of those off-the-beat-and-track, compared to many sitting directly on Highway 29 or the Silverado Trail. It is on a backroad, off Atlas Peak Drive, in what is considered the Silverado Bench. I have classified this winery under three different appellations; the Atlas Peak Appellation, where their Chardonnay and some premium Cabernet Sauvignon is grown, Carneros, where they have 80-some acres of additional Chardonnay, and the Napa Appellation, for much of their remaining grape supply.  I understand that there are powers at work to make the Silverado Bench a new appellation within the Napa Valley and I hope to come back to this listing in the future to update it.

There is a long, grand twisting driveway that leads to where the buildings lie. The grounds are certainly worth a stroll because the facilities sit just a bit higher on the property, providing a sweeping view of the south end of Napa that is quite incomparable. Granted, there are mountain wineries which offer a different perspective, but this one is quite special.

The tasting room itself is bright and open with a touch of modern art in its austerity. Adjacent to the tasting bar, is a large, full-length open window which shows the cellaring of barrels; hundreds and hundreds of barrels. There are two tastings; the Napa Valley Tasting includes three wines for $5.00, or the Estate Tasting which is four wines for $10.00. I opted for both, wanting to taste across the spectrum, with the exception of the Chardonnay (as I had been tasting nothing but red all day, I wasn’t ready to go back):

2001 Malbec – 88% Malbec, 8% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. A tease of soy sauce and barbecue in its Syrah-like aromas, under which explodes dark berry fruit and a hint of strawberry. Subtle oak tendencies show in the initial taste, heightened by up-front acidity, a decidedly blueberry mid-palate, and an integrated, woody finish. $30.00

2001 Merlot – 88% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Opulent bouquet of boysenberries, dark plum, and hints of rustic herbs. Even, balanced entry brightens a bit showing smooth fruit. Not a fruit bomb by any stretch, with a slightly tinny finish. $20.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, and 2% Petite Verdot. Immediate aroma of vanilla and then fruit which is pretty strong and forward. A second swirl shows oak, cassis, blueberry, and black cherry. The mouth entry is bright but layers into depths that include all the fruit plus some leather. Slightly dry finish but opulent and smooth. $22.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petite Verdot, and 1% Merlot. Dark berry liqueur with a hint of soy sauce. Sweet entry with a chew mid-palate. Heightened acidity shows touches of sweet cherry in the finish. $35.00

2002 Petite Sirah – 80% Petite Sirah, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Merlot. Dark, inky purple color with ripe plum liqueur tones. Behind the sweetness of the liqueur are darker barbecued meat and sweet soy sauce. Full, rich aromas don’t provide the ‘pow’ factor in the first sip and the wine smells fruitier than it tastes. The smooth, easy-drinking wine displays a ‘pop’ in the mid-palate and a nice, lingering finish. $30.00

William Hill Winery ~ 1761 Atlas Peak Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707.224.5424

Freemark Abbey is another winery that holds special memories for me. During those early years of driving up to Napa from Southern California, this was one of the standard stops for their much-loved dessert wine and I bought a beloved grape-festooned necklace that I still pull out on special occasions — but I get ahead of myself.

I have categorized the Abbey under two appellations; St. Helena, because their physical location is within the St. Helena appellation, lying just north of the town in almost the last stretch of public wineries before the town of Calistoga, and Rutherford, for they are renown for their single-vineyard Rutherford Dust Cabernet Sauvignon. The other tremendously special aspect of Freemark Abbey is historical — it was the first winery in California to be built and operated by a woman, Josephine Marlin Tychson (then known as Tychson Cellars).

Contrary to popular belief, the "Abbey" was never a religious order.  it is often misconstrued as such because of the nearby CIA, which was a Franciscan monastery. No, "Abbey" was the nickname Albert Ahern, one of the three business who purchased the estate in 1939. Today, the historic building area is under some renovation. Adjacent to the offices and tasting room is a lovely, newly-landscaped oak-shaded courtyard which is available to rent for private functions. It is also well worth a stroll through, just to admire its beauty.

The tasting room is large and warmly decorated with a seating area by a large fireplace. This form of hospitality is unusual as many tasting rooms purposefully keep guests from staying; seats promote lengthy stays and voluminous drinking. By having such a prominent display of welcome shows trust and comfort with guests that is refreshing. Oh yeah, and the folks working behind the bar are pretty nice, too.

2003 Napa Valley Viognier – Sweet tangerine and honeysuckle on the nose. Diving crisp entry that expands to show white stone fruit with a bright mid-palate and a finish that is partly tangy and partly creamy. $25.00

2003 Napa Valley Chardonnay – Rich, full-bodied aromas of elegant apple and pear with a hint of caramel. Vibrant mouthfeel that invokes both green apple and citrus. Shockingly rich considering this wine saw no malo. Lovely. $19.00

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet – 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Expansive aromas of black cherry, nutmeg, and clove. Fruit-forward entry showing black cassis. A bit bright, showing youth, but depth that anticipates age-ability. $35.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sycamore Vineyards – From the Bell Oaks
Rutherford area. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet
Franc. Slightly murky, dark red in color. Hints of green bell pepper
subside to show dark cocoa and hints of earth. Chocolate covered cherry
and vanilla fill the mouth that shows balance and a clean, distinct
finish. $55.00

2002 Napa Valley Syrah – 82% Syrah, 14% Petite Sirah, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot. Clear, garnet color. Dark plum and black pepper bouquet. Smooth, medium-bodied wine that shows well-integrated dark fruit and layered vanilla. Long, medium spiced finish shows an easy-drinking, not too over-the-top Syrah. $28.00

2000 Edelwein Gold – This is the dessert wine I am so rapturous about. It is one of the few naturally-produced Botrytis-affected wines produced in California. It is a late-harvest Riesling that does not get made every year. In fact, Freemark Abbey has only made this wine ten times in its history. The wine is a stunning golden yellow color which produces a bouquet of sweet honeysuckle with a tease towards ripe citrus. The mouth entry is silky that shows peach and honey and a lingering finish that is sweet but not saccharine

Freemark Abbey ~ Highway 29 at Lodi Lane ~ P.O. Box 410 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 800-963-9698

While exploring the Mendocino wine region, the town of Hopland is an easy stop to experience a handful of small wineries who inhabit a quaint enclave of buildings along the main street. All within walking distance of three or four blocks, one will find seven wineries’ tasting rooms, a local brewery, and a restaurant or two. Oracle Oaks Winery is such a winery and being relatively new on the block, shares their pouring space with Cole Bailey.

It was Cole Bailey’s Bob Anderson who was manning the tasting room on the day of my visit and I failed to inquire sufficiently about Oracle Oaks’ history. All I know is they are an offshoot of the Lolonis Vineyards (a sibling? a son? I can’t recall). Their vineyards are, however, located in Redwood Valley so while the tasting room lies in the center of Sanel Valley, they are wholly and entirely wines from the Redwood Valley appellation. One of the characteristics of Redwood Valley is its remarkable change in temperature, where it can change twenty- to thirty-degrees from evening to mid-day. I also failed to acquire prices on the wines I tasted, but look forward to learning more about this new business for there are several wines showing considerable intrigue:

NV Wrestler Red – A blend that is mostly Zinfandel (exact blend unknown). Port/sherry-like aromas with a dusty entry suggests slight oxidation. Qualities of dark red cherry and floral qualities in aroma and taste.

2002 Oracle Oaks Zinfandel, Redwood Valley – Initial nose of dried flowers. Slightly extracted entry that shows flavors of heather and lavender integrated with bright red fruit. A dusty finish.

2002 Valgdiguie, Redwood Valley – This was the wine that most captured my imagination. Known as the Napa Gamay, this Rhone-style wine was very dark purple with maroon tinges at its edge. Perfumey with dried flowers, the sweetish entry produced a sensation of elegant French perfume in the aroma/flavor combination. The flavors blossomed to produce actual table grape flavors with a thin mid-palate and a huge, chewy finish.

2002 Syrah, Redwood Valley – Dark garnet in color, aromas of blackberry liqueur just barely hides a cocoa and coffee bouquet. Fascinating complexity in producing both jammy and dusty qualities — fruity up front with a dusty finish.

2002 Merlot, Redwood Valley – Flowery aromas of geraniums and dried heather. Dark plummy entry with a lingering, elegant spiced finish.

Oracle Oaks Winery ~ 13275 S. Highway 101 ~ Hopland ~ CA ~ 707-744-1230

Smack-dab in the center of Hopland, in what used to be the High School, lies one of Brutocao Cellars tasting rooms. Still trying to map out this region, I may be going out on a limb by my category placement; Sanel Valley. You see, according the Mendocino Winegrowers Alliance, “There are 10 growing regions within Mendocino County. Eight are official
AVAs, while two (Ukiah and Sanel Valleys) have not yet been granted
official AVA status even though they are very significant grape growing
regions that had their first vineyards in the 1800’s.” And if you look at one of their maps, Brutocao’s Hopland TASTING ROOM is the center of Sanel Valley.  Seeing they also have an Anderson Valley tasting room, I have included that as well but I am
honestly not sure where the specific vineyards lie as so indicated on their wines labels and hope that someone will either enlighten me or that I will have an opportunity to visit more
often to learn the region. I also want to add a private perturbance that I had a camera failure for a few of these blogs and lost a dozen or so pictures, this being the first.

One of the extremely charming aspects of Brutocao is its placement in Hopland — as indicated, dead center in the two-lane town. But moreso, is that it is located in what was the Hopland High School adjacent to a bocce ball field. The morning of my visit there was a tournament to decide the summer teams. It seemed all so civilized and lovely. The tasting room also sits in front of The Crushed Grape restaurant so that from the interior of the building, right by the tasting bar, is the opening to the restaurant. The tasting room also hosts the dispensing and tasting of local artisinal olive oil and an especially elegant mural behind the tasting bar. An image of the city of Florence, the Brutocao winged lion logo can be seen in the part of the architectural motifs of the mural. All that, and pretty good wines too…

2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Feliz Vineyards – Aromas of warm melon and lemon peel shows depth and elegance in its accompanying flavors. Slight mineral finish does not interfere. $12.00

2003 Chardonnay, Bliss Vineyard – 100% stainless steel with no ML, this wine showed bright, clean green apple in its bouquet and tone. Citrus on the mid-palate. $15.00

2003 Reserve Chardonnay, Bliss Vineyard, Riserva d’Arento – 100% ML with oak. Similar apple qualities in aromas and flavors as in the previous Chardonnay, but a bit creamier. Rich, melon entry but a surprisingly crisp finish, considering its thick texture. $24.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Feliz Vineyard – Medium-bodied with fresh raspberries and cherry predominating. Clean, easy entry with a thin, mineral mid-palate. $18.00

2001 Merlot, Brutocao Vineyards – Rich raspberry and dark cherry that teases of earthiness. Some thin, herbal tones in the mid-palate, a dusty coffee filled out the finish. $20.00

2001 Merlot, Feliz Vineyard Select – An unfiltered offering, this rustic, earthy wine showed layers of dried twigs and leather with a tease of cherry and a finish of herbs. $25.00

2000 Reserve Merlot, Riserva d’Argento – With 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, a playful interchange between elegant raspberry and cedar, layers of dried herbs and tobacco develop to a redolent finish. $25.00

2003 Zinfandel, Brutocao Vineyards – Dark berry shows immediately in the nose and softens to display sherry-like qualities in the back of the nasal passages. Warm berries fill the mouth but thins a bit to a tinny, herbal finish. $20.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Brutocao Vineyards – Unfiltered. Dark, ripe cherry aromas and hints of green bell pepper show in the nose in a sherry-like essence. Concentrated dried fruit flavors produce a tease of sweetness on the back-palate with a long finish of black cherry. $20.00

2002 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Brutocao Vineyards – Unfiltered. Black loganberries, black raspberries, and black cherries all show alongside layers of dried herbs in its aromas. The dried herbal qualities show again in the mouth entry, alongside dried twigs and a dry, dusty finish that hints at smoke in its even finish. $34.00

Brutocao, Hopland ~ 13500 S. Highway 101 ~ Hopland ~ CA ~ 95449 ~ 707-744-1664
Brutocao, Anderson Valley ~ 7000 Highway 128 ~ Philo ~ CA ~ 95466 ~ 707-895-2152