Ultimate California Wine Blog

Beringer is a landmark in the Napa Valley – architecturally it is a well-recognized building and it is a very well-known producer of wines. It is a fabulous location for both first-timers and seasoned professionals as there truly is something for everybody. Their claim of being the oldest continually operating winery in the Napa Valley. The drive up the perfectly-manicured landscaping is awe-inspiring, however one cannot escape the slight Disneyland-like atmosphere of having to go through a reception area where color-coded maps are presented due to the size of the estate.

The map shows pathways to various spots throughout the estate and the different locations where wine can be tasted. There are two different locations for wine tasting; a section of the Old Stone Cellars where "every day drinkers" can tasted (I skipped this area), and the famous Rhine House, where the reserve wines area available for tasting. There are also a number of tours available; both self-guided and more formal guided tours.

The reserve tasting room offers five different tasting options, all of which include three wines; a $15 Signature Series, a $16 Vineyard Showcase, an $8 Taste of Knights Valley, an $8 Anything But Cab, and a $5 Dessert Wine Selection. I did have a distinct advantage of being able to move around all these lists and pick-and-choose, but with 75 different wines being produced at Beringer (15 of which are Cabernet Sauvignon), an entire day of tasting could be devoted to going through their entire book of offerings.

2003 Sbragia Limited Release Chardonnay – 100% malo on 100% sur lees produces an intoxicating intense chardonnay. Layers of dried floral notes play with heady, complicated fruit that is ever so slightly smoky and simultaneously rich. Not yet released.

2002 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir – Candyshop raspberry aromas produced a rather acidic entry. Nice, in an easy-drinking sort of way, mostly bright red fruits and some velvet feel on the finish. $30.00

2001 Bancroft Ranch, Howell Mountain Merlot – With 4% Cabernet Franc, a deep, rich offering that would make one think it was a Cabernet Sauvignon from its intensity. Dark with black fruit and dusty cocoa in the aromas, the mouth entry showed the same darkness and a mid-palate of orange peel. $75.00

2000 Marston Vineyard Syrah – From Spring Mountain, this dark garnet-colored wine was an easy-drinking Syrah showing classic barbecue and rich soy sauce aromas. A leathery entry blossomed to display easy, well-developed spice and fruit. $35.00

2001 Diener Ranch Petite Sirah – From a Clear Lake vineyard, 26 months in oak. Inky purple in color that reveled in soy sauce, barbecue meat, and blackberry liqueur. A dry mid-palate showed higher tannins from youth, but the bright, engaging, and erotically finish anticipates a long, luxurious life. $35.00

1998 Quarry Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – From the Rutherford district, this (like most of their high-cabs), shows amazing up-front fruit that dark and elegant. Some vanilla on the mid-palate and a dustiness of cocoa on the finish makes it quintessential Rutherford. $75.00

1998 State Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – From the Yountville district, jammier than the Quarry and a tad spicier. Still opulent and rich, just a bit rounder in mouthfeel. $75.00

1998 Tre Colline Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – From Howell Mountain, considerably more concentrated than the previous two presented. Rich in roasted fig and smoked spice, velvety to the very end. $75.00

2002 Nightingale – A Botrytis wine from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Dark golden in its honeyed color, it is rich with dark stone fruit and caramel flavors. $35.00/375ml

1998 Late Harvest Johannisberg Riesling – Also Botrytis-made, initial petroleum aromas are classically handled providing an intense candied orange peel and honey flavors. Almost a bit too syrupy in its mouthfeel, this would make an elegant after-dinner drink with cheese. $20.00/375ml

Set off Highway 29, on a back road just south of Yountville, is a very unassuming winery, Havens. I had heard of Havens, but I had never had the opportunity to taste one and was honestly not even sure what they offered. A perusal of many of the wine sites I frequent came up mostly empty. I was intrigued and surprised.

Crouched under some very old, stately oak trees lies a cluster of buildings that make up the tasting room, winery, and quite possibly somebody’s living quarters. It is secluded and peaceful and sets the stage for an adventure.

I wandered in last Saturday and met Peter Robichaud who, now retired, mans the reception area on weekends. Far from a classical tasting room, the small reception area could scarcely hold six or eight people and the service area is a mere sidebar where the wines are poured. Much to his credit, Peter knows how well their intensely rich wines pair well with food and even though I was his only guest at the time, graciously prepared a small cheese plate which certainly enhanced the tasting and the experience. Gracious from beginning to last and a great experience in tasting some amazing wines:

2001 Merlot – 14 months on French oak. Bordeaux-style with 5% Cabernet Franc, this medium-bodied offering shows dark cherry and blackberry tones in the nose, heightened with faint dried heather. Well-integrated and easy to drink, the dusty heather makes for a smooth finish. $24.00

2000 Reserve Merlot – Made with mostly Carneros fruit, this juice spent 22 months in French oak. Initial green bell pepper gives way to lush, dark cherry. Smooth and smoky in the mouth, the balanced anise mid-palate intrigues. $32.00

2001 Bourriquot Red Wine, Napa Valley – 62% Cabernet Franc and 38% Merlot. "Bourriquot" translates to mean "stubborn mule" which is a perfect description of the wine; spicy and complex with roasted meat qualities in its aroma. Swirling provides earthy fruit and a mouth entry that is complex and a bit tannic that will mellow with time. $35.00

2001 Syrah Napa Valley – With 3% Viogner. Intensely dark purple greets with heady soy sauce and dark herbs. A bit tangy upon entry, mellows with a swallow or two. Complex and elegant, the smooth acidity is tantalizing as it keeps going to produce dark chocolate and dried cherries. Balanced and truly amazing. $24.00

2001 Syrah Hudson Vineyard – I thought the previous Syrah was good but this blew my socks off. Cherry and soy sauce on the initial smell darkened to show smoked meat, roasted coffee, and black licorice. Like an intelligent, handsome man, this wine was complicated and juicy and one you want to grab onto and keep. $45.00

2000 Syrah Hudson Vineyard – It just keeps getting better and better with these Syrahs. Blackberry and raspberry liqueur that is poured over rare grilled meat. Tangibly chewy in its layers of flavor, the wine shows balanced minerals in the mid-palate and a sweeter licorice on the end. $45.00

2004 Abarino – Interesting that the tasting of some huge, over-the-top reds is finished with a fine, delicate white wine, but it works extremely well. The Abarino is perfumey with pear and white peach. A pale, clean yellow color shows some tropical fruit in the nose, but not cloyingly so. It teases with sweetness, but the entry is tangy with an exciting, crisp entry.

Havens ~ 2055 Hoffman Lane ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-261-2000

Koves-Newlan Vineyards and Winery proved to be another one of those delightful surprises that happen now and then when exploring the Napa Valley. It is so easy to get swept up glitz and glamor of the Big Names in Napa and a delightful exploration to chance upon a winery that has been around for 40-some-odd years that may have a tremendous following, but was otherwise unfamiliar to yours truly.

Located on the west side of Highway 29, there is a small frontage road called Solano Avenue. Tourists driving the 29 might even miss the wineries on that side because they lie off the main thoroughfare and actually take some maneuvering to get to. In the case of Koves-Newlan, there is a sign that is relatively visible amongst the vineyards, but even the buildings themselves are nestled amongst some elderly trees, providing shade and protection.

The tasting room is down a small flight of wooden stairs and is more a collection of displays and a small service table, all surrounded by massive layerings of filled barrels. This is a working winery and the tasting room is also the barrel storage area adjacent to the winemaker’s facilities.

On the day of my visit, one of the cellarworkers and aspiring winemaker, Tim Callahan, was manning the guest area. With lively blues as his background, he was informative on the wines and delightful in his presentation. I especially loved the story of the Late Harvest Riesling, but I’m getting ahead of myself…  Briefly, the Newlan Vineyards began in 1967 as many in the industry do; selling grapes to those who turned the agricultural product into world-class wine. Seeing how good their grapes really were, Newlan Winery began making their own wine in 1981. They changed names to Koves-Newlan in 1999 with the addition of the Sato family who owned Koves vineyard (not sure why they didn’t call the winery Sato-Newlan!). Now they are producing their own exceptional wine with their own high-quality grapes.

2002 Chardonnay, Napa Valley – Lean, clean lemon zest. Sweet with ease of taste versus actual sugar. A creamy finish is satisfying. $25.00

2002 Estate Pinot Noir, Napa Valley – Sexy and alluring. This was a wine I was contentedly happy to sit and smell. Dried rose petals and eucalyptus up front blossoms to show the complexity and depth of an expensive Japanese soy sauce and sweet & sour pickles (the kind given at a really good omakase meal). An enticing mineral finish. Adorable, enticing wine! $26.00

2002 Estate Merlot, Napa Valley – Dark cherry and hints of green bell pepper show on first whiff. Soft tannins and easy fruit with a dry mid-palate. $26.00

2001 Zinfandel, Napa Valley – Jammy black plum and blackberry explode in the initial aroma. Taste include integrated spicy dark fruit that teases on the finish with toasted coconut. $25.00

2002 Cabernet Franc – Compressed dried twigs and dried eucalyptus leaves anticipate the dry entry. High tannins punctuate dark fruit in the mid-palate which brightens to show dried floral notes on the finish. $30.00

2002 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Approximately 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Concentrated purple in color with extracted dried leaves and flowers compressed behind dark blackberry. $35.00

2000 Late Harvest White Riesling – I am told there is a secret to this wine. The winemaker who produced it passed away and there are no notes on its production. At 13.8% residual sugar, it is not nearly as syrupy as others I have tasted. Hints of honey dance with orange blossoms in a bright bouquet. Balanced with even acidity, there is a touch of stone fruit and spice on the finish that adds layers of complexity. Very, very enticing wine. $30.00/375ml

NV Pandora’s Port – An extremely unusual port made via the Solera system (a process normally used in the production of fine aged sherries, whereby a modicum of young wine is added to older wine for consistent bottlings). There is a "little bit of everything" in the production of this port and some of the older wines date back to 1985. The name Pandora alludes to the mythical box which was opened and let lose the miseries of the world — except that in the myth, what remained for mankind was Hope. In the case of this wine, it is a lovely tawny color with sensual teases of brown sugar and depth with spice and complexity. Completely engaging and rapturous. $40.00/375ml

Koves-Newlan Vineyards & Winery ~ 5225 Solano Avenue ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 800-500-WINE

I had the mistaken impression that Andy Beckstoffer was the largest land owner of vineyards in the Napa Valley. A recent visit to Laird Family Estate Winery set that misconception to rest. Ken Laird and his wife, Gail, purchased their first piece of land (a prune orchard!) in Calistoga in 1970.

Now, 35 years later, the Lairds own over 2,500 acres of prime vineyard real estate. And for years and years, they only sold their grapes to other wineries. They didn’t actually start making their own wine with all this acquired grape wealth until 1998, when they broke ground to construct an amazing building at the doorway to the Napa Valley at the beginning of the Oak Knoll District.

The story is told that the architect actually had originally developed this complex for Quintessa, who ultimately went with a different design. Several years later, the plans were presented to Ken who modified them for his own needs. It is stunning and I’m sure a tour of the production facilities would show amazing technological feats for while Laird’s personal winery produces around 4,500 cases (only 1% of the grapes he actually grows), his estate acts as a Custom Crush facility for the dozens of other wineries he continues to sell to. But visiting Laird is to to witness the family’s accomplishments and taste their excellent wine:

2004 Cold Creek Ranch Pinot Grigio – Initial bouquet of orange blossom with a hint of white peaches.  A bright, zingy entry produces grapefruit that is smooth and easy to drink. $16.00

2002 Carneros Chardonnay – 100% malo. Ripe, blossomy orange blossoms integrate with honey suckle and vanilla to show intense elegance. A clear, pronounced entry displays darker, more integrated flavors of fig and caramel. $30.00

2001 Red hen Ranch Chardonnay – 100% malo fermented in 75% new French oak. Ripe white stone fruit layers with vanilla that is clear and crips. Butter shows up in the back-palate. $40.00

2001 Cold Creek Ranch Chardonnay, Carneros – 100% malo. Creamy and rich, dark dried apricot with roasted nuts. $40.00

2000 Carneros Merlot – With 10% to 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. Initial aromas of dark cherry and earthy mushrooms with a hint of green bell pepper. Easy and smooth red fruit meet the mouth and expand to show herbal and spicy qualities with keep going. $40.00

2000 Suscol Ranch Merlot – Ripe red berries and plums with darker cassis greet the nose but subside to display hints of darker tobacco. A jammy, spicy mouth entry heightens with loganberry that continues to a long finish which remains a bit tight. $50.00

2000 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Clear garnet in color, bouquet of dark cherry and blackberry show jammy, plummy flavors that enters with spice but layers and integrates with deep earth. $40.00

2000 Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – Ruby colors with brick tones on the edge, dark vanilla and blackberry excites the nose. A smooth, velvety entry is elegant and rich continuing the dark berry and finishing with brown sugar spice. $80.00

Laird Family Estate ~ 5055 Solano Avenue ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-257-0360

Imagery touts itself as more than just a winery. It is no secret that I hold in high regard wineries that support the arts, but Benziger-owned Imagery goes far beyond simply supporting the arts; they call themselves "Estate Winery and Art Gallery." And what an art gallery it is – on the walls and on the bottles. Every single Imagery release has a decidedly unique, artist-designed label that must include an image or allusion to the Parthenon. On most winery websites, there are biographies of the owners and the winemaker. Here, there is also a biography of Bob Nugent, the curator of the continually growing exhibit which began with their first bottling in 1985. Nugent not only curates the in-house exhibit, but is an accomplished artist in his own right, and a tenured professor of art at local Sonoma State University.

It would be easy to continue to expound the virtues of Nugent and the art, but other factors need to be taken into consideration — like architecture and atmosphere. The building complex is appropriately moderne with some natural rock united with industrial siding reminiscent of any metropolitan city’s artist lofts. A garden, an instructional walkway, and alluring landscaping all comprise what awaits the visitor.

The sales area is not only filled with the expected retail items, but many artistically-befitting items which carry on the whimsical themes viewed throughout. The tasting bar is large, but does not impede the view to the number of galleries which lie behind it. The staff, even when deluged with customers, are gracious and helpful.

With all the accolades laid upon the visuals of Imagery, it is in due course that I should mention the wine. Imagery was started by Joe Benziger as a sister winery to his family’s larger endeavor, Benziger. As I have yet to blog the older sibling, I can only imagine that Imagery is the playful youngster; a place where Joe can have fun in his craft. I am only guessing, but it comes about from the interesting varietals that are found at Imagery – fun, intriguing, and with exception of a Cabernet Sauvignon (which I did not taste), not your grandfather’s wines:

2004 WOW Oui – An blend of Sauvignon Blanc with Muscat Canelli. An initial sweet smell confirms the Muscat grape but the overt grapefruit entry almost overwhelms. Some floral, but the grapefruit predominates. $24.00

2003 White Burgundy – A blend of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Blanc, and 10% Pinot Meunier produces a wine that is pale yellow in color with a combination of aromas of both pineapple and butter and hints of tropical fruit. A surprisingly sweet entry shows butterscotch but mostly it feels like a sugar-coated California Chardonnay while trying towards a French sensibility. $27.00

2002 Malbec – Initial jammy aromas subside to show more black pepper and tobacco. The muscular entry thins to produce plum and mineral. Exotic at first entry and muskier than most. $36.00

2002 Stone Dragon Syrah – Dark, purple/black to the very edge. Fully concentrated with roasted almond and mineral qualities in the nose. Huge and full in the mouth, the lingering aroma and chewy mouthfeel has a punch at the end showing great umph. $35.00

2002 Petite Sirah – Intensely concentrated and an almost solidly black wine. Dark jammy black raspberry and blackberry couple with clove and pepper. Exotic and erotic Middle Eastern spices in the finish including cardamom and sumac. $36.00

2003 Petite Sirah Port (500 mL) – Everything the 2002 has in flavors and aromas except concentrated into a syrupy liqueur lovliness accentuated with dried floral qualities behind the jamminess. Not just sex in a glass – this is complete copulation with orgasm. $32.00

Imagery Estate Winery and Art Gallery ~ 14335 Highway 12 ~ Glen Ellen ~ CA ~ 95442 ~ 877-550-4278