Ultimate California Wine Blog

I have seen the light and been shown the holy of holies — and it is food. I have long been a proponent of food and wine pairing to the extent that I can easily sell more wine when I start to describe the various cuisines that can be paired with this Merlot or that Cabernet Franc. There are a few wineries that do minimal pairings (a bite of cheese here, a handful of nuts there), but Mayo Family Winery has taken it to the wondrously full extreme; full pairings of seven of their wines in a simple sit-down setting, for the shockingly low price of $20.00.

I must add a caveat to this adventure; there is more than one Mayo Family Winery tasting room. The first one I went to is just off the Sonoma Highway in Glen Ellen before I was advised that the Reserve Tasting Room is another four miles up the road, in Kenwood, on the main bustling stretch of the same highway.

Situated on the bottom floor of a two-story building, the tasting room has a bar which runs the length of the room and I imagine that standing-room-only will start to fill up after the eighteen actual tabled seats get filled. Open only three weeks as of this writing, I predict that even finding a place to stand at the bar will soon be impossible…

Fortunately, I went on a quiet Sunday afternoon before the tourist season gets into full swing. A member of the Mayo family, Jen, greeted us and after we sat, explained that their in-house chef, Billy Oliver, has carefully paired each of the seven wines we were about to taste with a small morsel of food which will be served in stages. As she poured the first three wines, Oliver himself appeared very shortly after the glasses were filled with the first plate of three tastes. Jen explained that all the wines are single vineyard designate. The following are the wines plus their individual food pairings:

Goat Cheese and Summer Squash Roulade, paired with
2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Emma’s Vineyard, Napa Valley, ‘Unwooded’ – From the top of the plate, very thinly-mandolined, intensely fresh zucchini were wrapped around Laura Chenel chevre goat cheese. The goat cheese had obviously been whipped to a premium smoothness. The Sauvignon Blanc was very, clear pale; almost colorless. This is a SauvBlanc for food without the usual astringencies or overwhelming acidic tones, this easy-to-drink offering showed flavors of well-integrated dried herbs which expanded in the mouth when paired against the goat cheese. Subtle hints of melon and a whisper of citrus that was smooth and simple. $20.00

Lavender Pistachio-Crusted Prosciutto and Crenshaw Melon Lollipop, paired with
2003 Viognier, Sunny View Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Henry’s Cuvee’ –  This was a slightly aged Viognier as was evident from the rich, sunny yellow color of the wine. The sweet aroma of lemon meringue pie, with its perfect combination of citrus and cream, hinted that an intensely sugary and syrupy sensation was to follow. Conversely, the flavors were darker and richer than anticipated showing astonishing richness and complexity in its spikes of acidity with the long, creamy finish. The lollipop of melon and prosciutto enhanced the creaminess in the wine. The pistachio crust was an inspiration as the hint of toast in the nut provided a more complex layer to the wine. $30.00

Hazelnut-Arugula-Duck Liver Pâté with Strawberry Drizzle, paired with
2003 Pinot Noir, Piner Ranch Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Reserve – Holly’s Block’ – An almost odd, French-style Pinot, the slightly murky, brownish red color displayed a fruit bouquet that seemed already well-aged. The easy, smooth entry showed a balance of acids and tannins with some hints of burnt toast and Moroccan spices that faded to provide an easy complement to the pâté. Oliver’s tease of a strawberry drizzle easily emphasized the strawberry notes in the wine and the earthiness of the pâté seemed to enliven a creamy nutmeg in the back-palate. $45.00

The second flight began with a clearing of the glasses and another plate of three tastes:

Braised Boar Shoulder with Huckleberry and Pecan Jam, paired with
2002 Zinfandel, Ricci Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Reserve – Old Vines’ – A wine showing jammy, dark fruit aromas heightens with spice in the back of the nose. Intense, smooth mouth entry reveals a layered tease of both coffee and ripe dark plum. Again, a mere sample of some fruit incorporated into the boar’s meat brings forth the flavors of caramelized fruit. Hints of brett in the wine excite the gaminess of the meat. $40.00

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Coffee-Marinated Lamb Chop with Coriander-Pablano Chili Oil and Cilantro, paired with
2003 Merlot, Laurent Vineyard, Sonoma Valley, ‘Nellie’s Block’ – Overt and extremely intense aromas of jammy blackberry almost overwhelm, making me question if I wasn’t smelling a late harvest wine. Hints of oak and vanilla began to integrate as I took my first bite of lamb. The perfectly grilled offering was not overwhelmed with spicy oils, as I might have feared, but given just enough to enliven the senses and profoundly expand the blackberry qualities of the wine. Chef Oliver was obvious in his exuberance of this dish and it was easy to see why. The back-palate showed astonishing flavors of cream with herbs and more fruit in the finish. A masterful pairing. $35

Cured Beef Tenderloin with Mushroom Duxelle and Fingerling Potato, paired with
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa River Ranch, Napa Valley, ‘Julie’s Block’ – Dark, dried cranberries and currants coupled with dried herbs surprised me as the wine already presented itself as complex before tasting. This was the second wine of note that appeared to be more balanced and integrated at such an early age. The mushroom duxelle provided an earthy, erotic base that complemented the dark, earthy structure in the wine. The finish showed more elegant, dried herbs. $40.00

The final pairing is dessert, but beforehand, I specifically asked about their Syrah, which was not on the food pairing list, but offered to me for tasting…
2003 Pagel/Nord – Syrah, ‘Lylyann’s Block’ – Almost purple in color with concentrated dark spice and berry, another smooth, easy-to-drink, jammy wine showed hints of dried twigs and herbs with juniper, cassis, and cranberry tones. Long, velvety finish just doesn’t quit. $35.00

Grand Marnier Chocolate Truffle and Stilton Blue Cheese, paired with
2003 Zinfandel Port, Ricci Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Old Vine’ – Jen let out a secret that astounded me and made me fall in love before this wine ever hit my lips; this is a Zinfandel that has been fortified with a brandy. But that is not what astounded me — it was that the brandy they having been using came from the now defunct RMS Alembic distillery which was a longtime favorite of mine before their demise. It seems the Mayo family are one of the few who were able to acquire several barrels of the alembic after RMS shut its doors and if I could, I would buy as much of this Zin Port as I could, knowing that their supply of it is limited as well. Dancing back and forth between the chocolate and Stilton, it was hard for me to determine which was the better pairing. Stilton is a classic favorite for pairing with any über-jammy port and this was no exception, showing layered qualities of creamy caramel and dark cocoa. Alternately, the chocolate truffle, with its hint of orange from the Grand Marnier, provided brighter, pecan-like toasty notes from the Zin. Another inspiration. $30.00/350ml

It was hard to contain the excitement and enjoyment being experienced as it truly WAS an enlightening to have exceptional food paired so well with great wines. Chef Oliver was able to chat with me during my tasting as he and Jen adequately managed the other guests by themselves — my prediction is that they will need to hire a lot more staff as others discover this amazing gem of a tasting room. I specifically asked Chef Oliver about the astonishingly low price and his response was they were not out to gouge people. There is no doubt they could easily double the price and still have it be considered a tremendous bargain. It will be great fun to go back as the seasons change as Chef Oliver also indicated he will be updating the menu often as different ingredients become available. Although I doubt I will wait that long. Call for reservations; open only Thursday through Monday, from 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

Mayo Family Winery Reserve Tasting Room ~ 9200 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5504

Jeffrey Patterson is sitting pretty high atop a mountain in Santa Cruz, at an elevation of 2,000 feet, looking down upon his vineyards which trellis down the mountainside and the valley floor, what is now known as the Silicon Valley. His winery, Mount Eden Vineyards, has a long and illustrious history dating back to 1942 when Martin Ray planted Pinot Noir on Mt. Eden.

Ray had purchased the estate from his neighbor, Paul Masson, and had watched the Masson wine industry take off and clearly was inspired to take it further. Now, sixty-plus years later, Ray is known for having started the first boutique winery in California and his spirit certainly exists in what Jeffrey and his wife, Ellie, are continuing.

After driving up a very treacherous unpaved road, one is greeted by Jeffrey in his working boots walking from his stunningly restored Arts and Crafts home, perfectly appointed with period antiques, a billiards table, and numerous musical instruments. Jeffrey started as the assistant winemaker at Mt. Eden in 1981, becoming the general manager and head winemaker just over a year later. Investing in the business as shareholders, he and Ellie were able to purchase the business outright in 1993.

Explaining the legacy he was able to acquire, this quiet, serenely eloquent man immediately impresses with his passion, accessibility, as well as knowledge of arcane local history. My fortune on that day was that I was visiting with friends, Ron and Marcia Cali, who have a pretty significant family history attributed to Ron’s family having run a poultry and dairy mill. How can one express the joyful serendipity of Jeffrey reminiscing for a valley once known for apricot and prune orchards, pointing out what had been the one landmark he could see from his mountain, the tallest building in the valley being the local mill, and Ron chiming that it had been his family’s business?

Now, almost 25 years later, Jeffrey is obviously proud of the reputation he has built, producing 10,000 cases of a Chardonnay that are known for their cellarability of up to thirty years, some being estate grown and some from purchased grapes. At only 4,000 to 5,000 cases, is his classic, elegant Pinot Noir that rivals the French. He explained that he utilizes the French style of not irrigating his Pinot Noir grapes, believing it provides a stamp of originality to his finished product. Original and impressive, I owe a huge debt of gratitude to Jeffrey for opening up his home and allowing me a glimpse of his castle.

2002 Mt. Eden Estate Chardonnay – Unfiltered and elegantly balanced. Layers and layers of tropical fruit danced with a creamy tease in the aroma. An acidic entry explodes and the heady aroma expands, producing some additional creamy fruit which was reminiscent of guava, papaya, and kiwi. A second smell produced a hint of lime and the heady aroma blossomed driving the long, luxurious finish. $35.00

2001 Mt. Eden Estate Pinot Noir – Immediate aromas of dark berry just barely hide the teasing of the dark spice; clove, cinnamon, and sumac. The spice bouquet seems to heighten the fruit to another level of being completely unctuous in minerality and clean and forthright. The mouth entry is rich and vibrant with a bright mid-palate. The wine shows some reticence, being on the European style of slighter higher acids. Would age exceptionally well. $35.00

Mt. Eden Vineyards ~
22020 Mt. Eden Road ~
Saratoga ~ CA ~ 95070 ~ 888-865-9463

In a way, this posting is cheating. How? Well, technically speaking, there is no TwoTone Farm. I found no architectural monstrosity of a tasting room; no nubile tasting room attendants anxious to shove another wine club down some unsuspecting tourist’s throat; no bounty of wine-related t-shirts and bar accoutrement with which to decorate my yet-to-be-constructed private wine cellar. But TwoTone Farm IS a legitimate wine and its discovery has become an inspiration.

The inspiration lies in what is referred to as QPR: Quality Price Ratio. In this case, I have been introduced to a very drinkable Napa Valley Cabernet that sells in the $10 range (okay, I believe it was meant to retail for $14.99, but I found it on Wine.com for $9.99). Just as interesting is the wine’s lack of promotion by the producer, Beringer Blass except for a very cool CD of local alternative San Francisco bands entitled TwoTone Farm – napa Valley comes unscrewed. [sic] I was given one of the CDs because Tres Goetting was not only a Winemaker on the project, but also as a performing bass player on the CD in The Errol Previde Quartet.

Tres (at the time working at St. Clement Vineyards), along with winemaker Danielle Cyrot (from Stags’ Leap Winery), created this wine as part of a side project. Young and cutting edge, the entire packaging promotes a screw-cap, trendy fonts, and Gen-X-like dialogue on the labels such as "Not afraid to think outside the cork." I can’t help but wonder if the marketing of this great wine has faltered now that Tres is no longer involved in the project — having moved on to Ladera Vineyards, Cyrot is the name that is being associated with the wine at this time. Looking for the wine could be a struggle, but it is well worth the effort…

2002 TwoTone Farm Cabernet Sauvignon – Immediate nose of oak and berry which expands to fresh cherry. Obvious grape entry in the mouth that surprises to develop into rich and deep flavors. Old-world vanilla flavors dominate in a quality rarely seen in wines this inexpensive. Easy drinking and unpretentious. $9.99

Casa Nuestra has so much going for it and the real surprise and shame was that I had never heard of it. Located on the Silverado Trail, sitting between the two stalwarts of Duckhorn and Rombauer. Entirely unassuming and set-back off the main road, driving down the unpaved dirt towards the cluster of small, wooden yellow buildings is actually a passage through a time machine — back to the 1960s.

The first indication that you are not in the 21st century, is the large, psychedelic peace sign hanging above the entrance. Of course, there is also the charming surprise of the unpretentiousness of the surroundings; goats, picnic tables, and very old, majestic trees.

Inside is a simple room with a fireplace, bedecked with posters. However, the posters are a dead giveaway again; Martin Luther King, concert posters, and more memorabilia from the psychedelic Age of Aquarius. The pouring staff, as well, seem to be a slight transplant from a more carefree age; engaging, happy, and extremely generous in their time and energy. In their jocularity, they easily relate the unpretentious, down-home philosophy of the owners: They are out to make good wine, not to pave the driveway and build a palatial mansion. And I have no doubt there would have been an opportunity to do so as they clearly own prime, valuable real estate which could have been mortgaged to build an edifice more in line with the neighborhood reputation.

The winery itself produces a limited amount of wine – 1,800 cases maximum. Surprisingly, here is yet another winery which has dispensed with the distribution system, meaning it can only be obtained through the winery itself. Not yet having advised anyone to join a wine club, a single offering through Casa Nuestra almost had me a member; a club-only blend entitled Tinto Classico.

Lastly, for visitors coming to the Napa Valley, a major plus for Casa Nuestra’s picnic tables and your dining neighbors, two Nubian goats Nava and Cross who will happily share your offerings. I had no food during the day of my visit, but both goats still romped over to have their picture taken!

2004 Dry Chenin Blanc, Green Valley – Very clear, pale greenish tint in color with pronounced honeydew melon and fresh green apple aromas. Intensely refreshing and exhilarating with crisp acidity that enhances but not overpowers. $15.00

2004 Off Dry Riesling, St. Helena Estate – What great fun – tangerine and intoxicatingly exotic fruits in the nose do not overwhelm with sweetness at only .8% residual sugar. Stunningly balanced demonstrates crispness and a clean pineapple mid-palate that has a long, intense finish. $19.00

2003 Tinto Classico, Old Vines, Oakville Estate – I felt very fortunate to taste this wine-club members’-only wine; a field-blend of an old-clone Zinfandel, Cabernet Pfeffer, Alicante Bouschet, Carignane, Petite Sirah,
Mouvedre, Refosco, Napa Gamay, and Pinot Noir. This was a stunningly complex wine which teased with both hints of tobacco and heightened with raspberry. The entry was jammy with plum and hints of cocoa. I found both spice and and dark cherry on the finish which was long and exciting. NFS

2002 Cabernet Franc, St. Helena Estate – Dark ruby with purple tones, aromas of dark fruit and hints of dried floral qualities of lavender and violet. The mouth entry was dark and fruity, showing both plum and dark berry but the finish was a bit dry. $32.00

2002 Meritage, St. Helena Estate – A classic blend of 54% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 9% Cabernet Franc. Still a bit young with over oak and fruit just barely hiding hints of greenish which will undoubtedly bow out with age. Even, balanced entry blossomed in the mid-palate and the bright, tannic finish supported my initial thoughts of youth. $45.00

Casa Nuestra ~ 3451 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5783

The phenomenon of the Two-Buck Chuck can hardly be ignored. There are a lot of people who like to drink huge amounts of affordable wine.  The über wine snobs who frequent the multitude of wine-based chat rooms refer to this practice as quaffing. I have long been on the fence about the production of such wine and their overall attraction. The friends and family I have who are just learning about wine are put off by the overall expense of the proposition of learning on $50 cabs… It is understandably difficult to learn about different varietals at even $10 or $20 a bottle. With that in mind, it is incredibly easy to recommend Wooden Valley Winery.

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Located just a two miles from the Napa county line, the winery does require a bit of a search as it lies well off the beaten track, on a back road in the farm country of the Suisun valley. The winery has been in business for over a half-a-century, producing 18,000 cases a year. Having almost 20 different wines to try, not charging a tasting is pretty unusual. These are uncomplicated, affordable wines.

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The tasting room is incredibly expansive. Visiting there mid-day and mid-week, I was still surprised at the crowds that gathered along the 30- to 40-foot long bar. There are historic artifacts from the Lanza family who have owned and operated the winery from the beginning. The pouring staff and laid back to the point where you have to actually ask about buying — nothing is forced whatsoever. While I might not drink these wines on a daily basis, I would not hesitate to bring Dad here and let him loose.

2002 Chardonnay – 100% stainless steel. Green entry, some green apple. Thin finish. $7.00

2002 Sauvignon Blanc – Sweet, bright aromas with a sweet entry that suggests residual sugar. Grass and kiwi flavors that are smoother than I thought they might be. $7.00

2001 Viognier – Skunky aromas masks a sweet entry which turns a bit astringent. $8.00

2003 White Gamay – Salmon color with candy shop aromas. Slightly effervescent that produces a classic old-world penny candy flavor in the mouth. $6.00

2002 Valdiguie – Intensely bright red colors demonstrate fresh cherry with secondary smoke and herbs on the nose. Smooth entry is slightly acidic. A candy shop feel that is even and smooth but fails to thrill. $7.00

2002 Pinot – Slightly green, smoky bouquet which subsides to show more dark berry and vanilla tones. Astonishing aromas give way to some sweet, candy cherry aromas. Slightly harsh entry expands to more strident and metallic flavors that thins on the finish. $11.00

2001 Estate Merlot – 87% Merlot, 5.6% Petite Sirah, and 7.4% Syrah. Dark ruby color producing green bell pepper and berry notes on the nose. Hot. Medicinal flavors expand to produce a green herbaceousness with a dry, tannic finish. $13.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon – Green bell pepper aromas that do not anticipate the bright berry mouth feel. A bit thin. $9.00

2000 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – 18 months in American oak shows surprisingly dark, elegant fruit with some greeness. There are hints of spice in the entry but turns a bit green on the finish. Pretty decent for the price. $13.00

2001 Estate Syrah – Ripe, warm cherry bouquet. Medicinal, camphor-like entry with overt smoke in the mid-palate. An herbal finish is a tad dry, but an excellent example of the varietal for the cost. $9.00

Some Sweet Wines

2003 Riesling – With a residual sugar of 5.4%, this intensely sweet wine was almost syrupy in consistency. Hints of apple, best served very cold. I bought a bottle for my brother-in-law who adores very sweet, easy-drinking wines. $8.00

Doce Dorato – A blend of Muscat and Canelli grapes. Not as sweet as the Riesling but still pretty intense in sugars and fruit flavors. $5.00

Wooden Valley Winery ~ 4756 Suisun Valley Road ~ Fairfield ~ CA ~ 94534 ~ 707-864-0730