Ultimate California Wine Blog

Working on Howell Mountain, I admit a certain affinity to the neighbors and styles of wine being produced. Much of the wine made on the mountain is created either by families who feel a close connection with the terroir and all that the mountain has to offer, or by larger corporations who are producing very small lots of a Howell Mountain wine from either their own small acres or by grapes purchased from the families who are part of the landscape. The Lamborn Family Winery are such a family, holding a unique position with an impressive history on the mountain.

I had the distinct pleasure of meeting Mike and Terry Lamborn and hearing their story: Mike’s father, Bob (affectionately known as "Papa"), started by buying nine acres of property in 1971 and seriously considered planting melons. Fortunately, they decided on Zinfandel instead and by 1975, sold their nine acres and moved up the mountain a bit to a 15-acre parcel.

Well, with no consultants to tell them how or in what direction to plant their vineyards, divine providence must have been work. For there is an old addage that aerodynamically, the bumblebee shouldn’t be able to fly, but the bumblebee doesn’t know that so it goes on flying anyway. This applied to Bob because with what he did in setting up his property, he should never have been able to create wine. Mike marvels to this day the good fortune that has shined down on them in their success — but with Heidi Peterson Barrett as winemaker, how could they fail?

Several years and another move from those 15 acres to a larger, 30-acre parcel has seen the growth of the Lamborn Family Winery. Bob passed away just a year ago, in April of 2004, but son, Mike, as well as Mike and Terry’s sons and daughters-in-law AND grandchildren are all devoted to continuing the legacy as well as moving onward and upward. While they have been concentrating on Zinfandel all these years, a Lamborn-made, Howell Mountain Cabernet is in the works and I, for one, hope to be first on the list for tasting.

If you decide to visit, be prepared to laugh and become one of the family, for there is no formal tasting room — if you visit, you are invited into the family home to sample the wine. Sitting in the living room, next to the fireplace which is embellished with the family crest. Mike readily admits to cave-envy and instead of the classic cave tour, suffices to show off his amazing view and vineyards. Or, if you are like me, one can marvel at the array of stunning antiques and artwork which reflects the warmth of the hosts hospitality.

Until that Cab is released, one must suffer with the Zinfandels, if you can call it suffering…

1999 Lamborn Family Zinfandel; "The Solar Factor" – Aromas of dried fruit and dried flowers in a well-integrated, well-aged offering. Raspbery and lavender notes teased in the nose and in the entry. Bright acids were tempered with even, balanced tannins. Very soft and teasing at delicacy for a Zinfandel, the smooth mouthfeel provided a finish that included opulent dried spice and dusty heather qualities.

2001 Lamborn Family Zinfandel – Overt, rich mineral tones which subside to demonstrate dark fruit of blackberry, black raspberry, and cassis. A teasing of cocoa in the bouquet anticipates a darker, more structured spice in the mid-palate, showing cinnamon and clove which is musky and deep. Well balanced and integrated, a brighter Bing cherry tantalizes on the finish.

2002 Lamborn Family Zinfandel; "Platinum Anniversary" – Bright, smoky qualities show toasty oak and developed vanilla with are layered and complicated. Very silky on the palate, complex dark berry flavors predominate with a heightened, sweet finish that begs for a second and third taste. $36.00

Lamborn Family Winery ~ Summit Lake Drive ~ Angwin ~ CA ~ 94508 ~ 925-254-0511

Bremer Family Winery sits about halfway up Howell Mountain in the Napa Valley, but is just on the line of where the Howell Mountain appellation begins so technically, is still in the Napa Valley appellation. The Bremer family purchased an 1891 historic winery that at one point was owned by the Ballentine family.

The historic building is still in use and a black-and-white kitty was spied eyeing the visiting guests from one of the windows on the top floor. They are open to the public in a neighborhood of appointment-only wineries which is nice. On the day of my visit, they were surprisingly busy and having to accommodate guests both outside on tables by the historic building, plus in their indoor, sit-down tasting room.

Refreshingly intimate, there is no large retail-based tasting bar that one has to saddle-up to. Instead, as a desk setting, the pourer sits behind the large table that seats six comfortably and eight rather tightly. In a sense, he holds court while pouring and explaining family history, valley history, vineyard designations, and related local lore.  A number of bottles were open on my visit, and one point of especial interest is that while they are not part of Howell Mountain now, apparently the family is looking into buying some Howell Mountain fruit which is definitely something I will look forward to!

2001 Bremer Family Chardonnay – From a Carneros vineyard. Clear, bright yellow in tone, overt butter on nose with some warm tropical fruit and pear aromas. 100% malo produces a creamy entry with hints of coconut on the finish. $28.75

2002 Bremer Family Zinfandel – 65% Napa fruit and 35% Sonoma fruit. Intense dark berries almost hides a hint of green in the nose. Big, chewy entry shows white pepper and raspberry but thins a bit on the finish. $35.00

2001 Bremer Family Cabernet Franc - I’m always happy when I get to experience a hundred percent Cabernet Franc. This offering is from Rutherford fruit and was surprisingly jammy on the nose . Classic Rutherford dustiness in the mid-palate with black pepper. Even and balanced, the bright tannins demonstrated some elegant mineral qualities on the finish. $40.00

2001 Bremer Family Cabernet Sauvignon – Strong dark berry and black plummy bouquet also shows oaky vanilla. A bit of green shows in the mouth beneath the bright fruit. Would like to try again in ten years as I think time will smooth out the brightness. $50.00

2001 Bremer Family Claret – While the exact blend is a secret, this is roughly 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Petite Verdot. A classic Bordeaux blend immediately produces opulent dark fruit including cassis, blackberry, and black raspberry subsides to demonstrate hints of green olive and mineral qualities. The mouthfeel parallels but shows considerably more pronounced tannins with tobacco and cedar qualities. The smooth, even entry gets a bit hot. $60.00

2001 Bremer Family Merlot – Fresh, ripe dark purple color with appropriate dark fruit and some spice on the nose with shades of vanilla. Dark fruit segues into the mouth and shows leather and minerals. Long finish of vanilla and fruit. $40.00

Bremer Family Winery ~ 975 Deer Park Road ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5411

Chateau Boswell is one that has intrigued me for some time because of its old-world charm and style in architecture. It lies on the Silverado Trail, beyond Deer Park towards Calistoga. I hazard to guess it is a part of the Trail that is far less traveled as many folks tends towards the town of St. Helena before venturing up that far. Pity that, for a number of exceptional wineries lie up in that vicinity.

Chateau Boswell is not a very well known name due to their limited production; 300 cases of an already-sold-out Chardonnay, 330 cases of a Cuvée, and barely 165 cases of a Reserve Cabernet. Started 1979 by Dr. R. Thornton and Susan Boswell, it is still family-owned and operated. The grapes are grown organically, but not yet certified as such.

When I visited, I was surprised to meet Susan Boswell herself pouring wine and greeting customers. I was fortunate that they are usually only open by appointment and that I stumbled upon an open tasting room on a Saturday. Susan even admitted that her son usually does the tastings. She did explain that all the wines are dedicated to members of the family and that each year she designs a special back label with custom artwork in those dedications.

The tasting room is barely that — a small enclave with antiques which lies adjacent to the barrel room of the winery. There is a hint of mustiness in the air which seems to compliment the surroundings. I tasted two of the offerings during my visit, both of which were exceptional.

2002 Jacquelynn Cuvée — Named after their daughter, this is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc, both from the Stags Leap District. Intensely opulent without the classic dirty Stags Leap flavors I tend to expect. Aromas of dark berry and hints of mocha with balanced tannins that produce concentrated, well-structured fruit and a silky, lingering finish. $64.00

2002 Renaissance Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – Allowing me to taste a sold-out wine is usually a sure sign I am going to want it… Dark aromas of well-integrated blackberry, cassis, oak, and spice successfully anticipate the elegant entry and mouth feel of this wine. 100% new French oak is evident with hints of smoke on the back palate, just barely subsiding to the velvety finish. $94.00

Chateau Boswell ~ 3468 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 707-963-5472

V. Sattui is a tad controversial for a variety of reason. Mostly, it is scoffed at by some wine geeks and locals because it is such a magnet for tourist crowds. With its long-standing history, it is one of the few wineries in the valley that allows picnicking on the grounds. Subsequently, on a hot summer afternoon, the grassy area out front could be literally swamped with bodies.

There are a number of anomalies related to V. Sattui — of note, they do not utilize the distribution system known throughout the wine industry. What does this mean for the consumer? It means that you will never find a V. Sattui wine on a store shelf but are able to have it shipped directly to you, wherever you live (except, of course, Utah).

The picnic area thrives in part because of the tremendously stocked cheese shop and deli. I had visited once during the crush of the crowds and it was only upon a second, quieter visit that I was able to appreciate the quality selection of the cheeses offered. With service of upwards of 2,500 people a DAY during the summer, it is no wonder they have a reputation for selling more cheese than any other store in the state. And the wine? A multitude of offerings – something for everyone, from the beginner to the experienced taster with almost 35 different wines being made. On any given visit, the free tasting will include almost a dozen of those:

2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Suzanne’s Vineyard – Mostly apple and some grass on the nose. Tangy entry with acidic mid-palate. Long, tart finish which shows both herbaciousness and a bit of flinty minerality. 100% Stainless Steel. $16.25

2002 Chardonnay, Carneros – Light on the malo, mostly lemony tones up front.  Sharp, tangy mouthfeel with sharp, tropical fruits that produce a mostly tight, harsh finish. $25.00

2004 Off-Dry Johannisberg Riesling – (Not to be confused with their Dry Johannisberg Riesling!). At 2% residual sugar, mostly sweet offerings of apricot and melon with a distinct honeysuckle finish. $17.50

2003 Gamay Rouge – Downright fluorescent in color, this 1.5% residual sugar tasted shockingly sweeter than the previous Riesling offering. Overwhelming candied cherry and strawberry aromas with a Kool-Aid-like sweet, tinny taste and a mineral finish. $16.25

2001 Pinot Noir, Carneros; Henry Ranch – Harsh candy aromas with a hot, metallic entry. Dry in the middle with a licorice finish. $15.95

2002 Merlot, Carneros; Henry Ranch – Berry and spicy herbs in the bouquet but a hot entry that finishes rather thick and pasty. $25.00

2002 Howell Mountain Zinfandel – Dark, opulent berries with cinnamon and clove wafting behind the fruit. Velvety, soft entry with a long, complex finish. Quite a find! $30.00

2002 Contra Costa Zinfandel, Old Vine – From 48-year old vines. Plummy nose belies the spicy entry and dry, tannic finish. $26.00

2002 Preston Cabernet Sauvignon – Candy shop aromas produce cherry and oak flavors. Dry mid-palate with decent, even finish. $39.00

2002 Morisoli Cabernet Sauvignon – Dark blackberry and cherry with a hint of medicinal tones behind the fruit. Cherry entry with a mineral finish. $47.00

1997 Vin Santo – An intriguing combination of Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Cahaiola grapes. I couldn’t get past the sweetness to discern taste. $25.00

2005 Muscat – Grape nose with candy and orange blossom flavors. Metallic, tinny finish. $17.00

NV Angelica – Interesting blend of a Muscat grapes blended with alembic brandy. Intensely aggressive with some orange behind the heat. $25.00

Madeira – "The oldest produced in the United States." I am entirely unfamiliar with Madeira and can only indicate that I perceived definite oak qualities with sweet molasses. A bit raisiny with a anisette finish. $37.00

V. Sattui ~ 1111 White Lane ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-7774

I had indicated in the Pinot Paradise blog that the event was held at Testarossa. But I made sure to arrive at the event early enough to do a little tasting at the host winery. The winery setting is exceptionally stunning as it was an historical Noviate and still houses many of the retired Brothers on the property.

"Testarossa" literally means "red head" was so named after after founder Rob Jensen, a nickname he acquired while a university student in Italy. He and his wife, Diana, began winemaking in their garage but by 1993, had been fully bitten by the bug and purchased the Novitiate estate to showcase their finely made juice.

The entrance is a long, stone walkway which houses many historical photographs of the Brothers and the legacy contained within. The tasting room is large, inviting, and comfortable. The pouring staff is generous and informed, helping with questions about the various I had about vineyards. Testarossa specializes in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah which is a bit of an oddity and a delight in the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-heavy world.

2003 Castello Chardonnay – 100% malo from Central Coast vineyards. Tropical fruit followed by darker, more elegant apricot aromas. Creamy entry with a mid-palate of oak and the classical, buttery finish. $26.00

2003 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay – Elder Series – From the Santa Maria Valley. Pineapple and citrus bouquet with a lively, tangy entry. A layered mid-palate shows both hints of oak and honey. $36.00

2002 Palazzio Pinot Noir – A blend of fruit from Bien Nacido, Brosseau, Clos Pepe, Garys’, Michaud, Pisoni, Rosella’s, Sleepy Hollow, and Sonatera vineyards. Dark strawberry and raspberry tones with brown spicy aromas. Mineral entry with a tangy mid-palate and a bright finish. $32.00

2003 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir – Dark raspberry and elegant, layered spice on the nose with hints of tobacco. A vegetal center complements the fruit with a long, finish of BBQ and fat. $54.00

2001 Gary’s Pinot Noir – (Member’s only, not available for purchase) Intensely dark berry and opulent spice. Some minerals on the entry which transforms to an herby mid-palate and a long, earthy, morel finish. $54.00

2002 Ferrari Club Syrah – Made in affiliation with the Ferrari Club of America, the label shows the famous Italian sportscar. Incredible fruit-forward dark berry that subsides to produce cinnamon and clove bouquet. Astonishing bright cherry entry that gives was to an earthy, mushroom middle. Even acids and layered textures provide a bright finish. $25.00

Testarossa Vineyards ~ 300-A College Avenue ~ Los Gatos ~ CA ~ 95030 ~ 408-354-6150