Ultimate California Wine Blog

I owe the discovery of St. Amant Winery (sorry, no website link) to Derrick of An Obsession With Food.  When I told him I was heading out to Lodi to blog, he recommended I get in touch with Tim Spencer, owner, winemaker, and chief cook-and-bottle-washer of St. Amant. Don’t confuse this St. Amant with the same winery in Louisiana with the same name; they are completely winery. Also, I’ll confess up front, of the six or seven wineries I visited in Lodi during my first excursion, St. Amant was my favorite stop.

Completely unpretentious, the "winery" is housed in an industrial complex near the edge of town. You have to make an appointment as there is no fancy building, no wine-related decorations, and no grapevine-bedecked clothing to be had. Entering the warehouse, don’t be put off by the plastic chairs around the fold-up table or the plank of wood atop a few barrels as the tasting bar. None of that matters when you taste the wine and when you meet Tim.

In the wine business for over 33 years, Tim Spencer had no intention of owning a winery. His family had been farming in Lodi and Amador since the 1800’s and in 1972, he planted grapes which he sold. After one of the wineries he sold to went bankrupt, he decided he could just as easily utilize the grapes himself, have the fun of making wine, an go bankrupt himself. Not only did he not go bankrupt, he has travelled the globe lecturing on California winery practices, planted extensive European varietals, and has established himself as the first California Vintner to be honored by the French government with the title "Honorary Frenchman for a Day."

One of the wonderful things about hanging out with such icons in the industry, are the additional characters that you meet in passing. In the hour or so I was tasting wines with Tim, Ernie Dosio stopped in "just to hang out." Dosio runs Pacific Agrilands, a vineyard management company. What is so special about that? Tim let me in a little secret — Ernie manages somewhere close to 55,000 acres of wine-making agriculture (mostly for E&J Gallo). I think that is very, very cool.

You can tell that I think pretty highly of St. Amant and I imagine telling you about the wine will help. Part of it is the grapes. Along with the stalwart Lodi standard, Zinfandel, Tim Spencer grows a number of Portuguese and Spanish grapes which he feels are better suited to the warmer climate of the West Sierra Foothills. As the proof is in the pudding, it was tasting these wines that blew me away – amazing quality wines at stunningly low prices. Being used to paying $50 for a concentrated, inky Zin, I could barely contain my glee at finding wines at less than half that cost!

2004 Verdelho – Grown in Amador and bottled only a week before it was opened for me, this is a Portuguese white grape I had never tasted before. It produced bright, grassy aromas with hints of green apple. The perfumey and enticing notes segued into the mouth with a tantazling green honey sensation with a creamy finish. Outstanding at $15.00

2003 Mohr-Fry Ranchers Lodi Zinfandel – From old vines planted in 1944, this dark, inky red exhibits jammy tones of plum, raisin, and fig. There is a hint of earthiness that opens up with swirling. The port-like entry is concentrated, thick, and rich with an extended ripe and chewy finish. A lovely fruit bomb. $18.00

2003 Marian’s Vineyard Zinfandel – These vines were planted in 1901 and produce an almost blackish/purply wine. Plummy and elegant, with a sweet essence of chocolate and blackberry. Rich, but heightened with a tangy mid-palate that is bright and engaging with a spicy, hedonistic finish. $24.00

2003 Tempranillo, Amador – I’ve never seen such an inky-dark Tempranillo before. This wine is Syrah-like with its bright cherry bouquet and even, smooth entry. A tobacco and balanced tannic mid-palate give way to a mineral finish. As dark as it is, the aromas and dry, even tannins are incredibly balanced. $18.00

Veno Do Sol – The first time this wine was made, this is a white Port made with fortified Verdelho grapes from 67-year old vines. Surprising that a clear, golden-colored wine produces sweet, red apple scents (I might have anticipated GREEN apple, but not RED apple!) While the entry is honey and sweet, it is not syrupy whatsoever, but crisp with a floral finish. $18.00

Here is where my admiration for Tim Spencer grew, for both his red Port offerings were produced from a blend of the five classic Port-wine grapes; Touriga, Tinta Cao, Alvarelhao, Souzao, and Tinta Roriz. He keeps the varietals separate and evaluates the lots to determine which blend of each grapes goes into his two Ports:

2002 Bootleg Port – Complex clove and dark fruit. Inky color with cocoa and lighter chocolate offerings. Engaging and complex, for those times when I like drinking a young, über-rich Port. $18.00

2003 St. Amant Vintage Port – Over-the-top opulent. First fruit, then herbs, then some sweetness but very accessible. Chocolate-covered cherries that keeps going with an intensely smooth mouth feel. I’m going to hold onto this bottle for ten or 15 years. $30.00

St. Amant Winery ~ One Winemaster Way ~ Lodi ~ CA ~ 95240 ~ 209-367-0646

Yep, I’m finally exploring new frontiers – the wild and wooley land of Lodi which I knew (as many people do) from the Creedance Clearwater Revival lyrics, "…I’m lookin’ for a pot of gold,
Things got bad and things got worse, I guess you know the tune,
Oh Lord, I’m stuck in Lodi again." Well I didn’t get stuck, but I did find many pots of gold. Liquid gold. Wine. 

Getting off the freeway, I figured I would head towards the visitor’s center and pick up a map – not really knowing exactly where I was headed. However, on the two-lane road flanked with farm houses and budding vineyards, wineries began to appear and I figured I didn’t need the visitor’s center at all. Throwing caution to the wind, I pulled in to Jessie’s Grove Winery.

At a 116 years old, Jessie’s Grove contains the oldest vines in Lodi. It seems that Jessie’s father, Joseph, arrived in the Lodi area in the 1860s, searching not for vineyard property, but a land "where the oak trees grew the tallest." When Jessie herself inherited the property, she kept 32-acres of oak preserved in memory of her father. The property itself is still very much a ranch-like settlement, with chickens and roosters running around, in front of the tasting room building.

The tasting room is full of charm and history — the entire back wall contains a photo montage of the family’s history. Marie was setting up to pour for the day I arrived and graciously invited me and my friend, Miss Bell, in to taste, even though they didn’t open for an hour. Eager to  chat about the summer Blues concerts which take place on the site as well as the quality of the wine, it was quite easy to get entranced at the legacy of the wine and the establisment.  Interestingly enough, the wines are all priced in such a way that with tax added in, each bottles rounds up to a even dollar amount.

2003 "Blue Moon," Lodi – A blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Chardonnay produces a clear, straw-colored wine. Bright honeysuckle fruit the clean, peach and apricot flavors. Crisp and clean with a honeyed essence as its spine. $12.07

2002 Chardonnay, Lodi – Buttery and creamy in aroma and flavors, a classic California Chardonnay with tropical fruits and some apple notes. Bright and enticing with even acidity. $17.63

2003 Carignane, Lodi Ancient Vines - A blend of 15% Petite Sirah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and a hint of Syrah accompany this classic Rhone varietal. Thorny brambleberries tease the nose and tingle a bit upon entry that expands to produce a  flowerly, raspberry chewiness. A complex, mineral finish in this complex wine. Interesting and a great value for the price. $14.85

2003 "Earth, Zin & Fire," Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi – Hearkening to the concerts held on the grounds, the back label of this bottle is designed to look like a concert ticket and the front label’s postscript is "Front Row Zinfandel." Fruity, fruity aromas of warm figs roasted with holiday baking spices pair with jammy flavors and smoked bacon. This is intensely rich with a heightened, mid-palate that displays a tangy finish. Opulent and rich and another great value wine. $14.85

2001 "Westwind" Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi – Coming from 64-year-old vineyards, this inky, dark purple wine exhibits plummy, anise aromas. Amazingly smooth entry is even and balanced. Marie offers a bite of 70% Scharffen Berger chocolate which, complementing the wine, expands the plummy tones and expanding the spices. A slightly tinny finish does not dimish the quality. $19.49

Jessie’s Grove Winery ~ 1973 W. Turner Road ~ Lodi ~ CA ~ 95242 ~ 209-368-2728

O’Howell Mountain is becoming the Nirvana of vineyard property in the Napa valley. Some of the most prestigious wines being made today are coming off this mountain and there are very few wines from the Howell Mountain appellation that haven’t just plain knocked my socks off. With that, it was with great excitement that I got to visit the estate on which Betty O’Shaughnessy has built her winery.

Finding the winery is a tad tricky — driving through what seems a private gate, there is almost a two-mile drive on a single lane before the building appears. At elevation 1,900, the estate is 36 acres of buildings and vineyards, but it is discreetly hidden among the forest and natural landscaping on the mountain. I don’t have a confirmation, but I wonder if the building architect and landscape architect were not one and the same — or at least worked closely together.

The interior of the building complex is stunningly appointed with custom-designed furniture and amazing artwork. The stonework in the building is Sonora Gold, the tables throughout the reception area were all custom-made from rare, West African hardwoods like exotic babinka. There is a wine library which plays center stage that was designed similar to that at Aureole in Las Vegas; entirely vertical and temperature-controlled (I regret that my photograph was mostly reflection of the glass, hence it is not posted). Also cleverly included in the tasting area is an indoor/outdoor fireplace, meaning it was designed to be accessible from both the inside reception area and the outdoor seating area.

Sean Capiaux is the resident winemaker, but was also instrumental in the design of the stainless steel tanks used in the production. With a self-contained pumping, heating, and cooling system, each tank can be automatically and independently controlled. As the winery is producing less than 1,500 cases, Sean is also actively working on developing is own namesake wines with five, vineyard-specific Pinot Noir under the name Capiaux Cellars.

I meant to ask if Sean was involved in the design of the caves, for they are truly stupendous as well. It is pretty rare to find caves that are double-wide — that is, instead of an aisle down the middle with barrels up against the walls, there are actually two aisles with four rows of barrels in 12,000 square-feet of caves. These barrels contain the two different Cabernets that O’Shaughnessy produces, one from their Howell Mountain estate and another from a smaller, Mount Veeder vineyard.

I was fortunate to visit and they welcome guests for tours, but could only taste upcoming offerings from barrels (pulled by Sean himself!) as current offerings were already sold out and there was none to be had for purchase. Sadly, this is a pretty standard occurrence and is not too surprising considering the quality of the wine and I’m sure even future releases will sell out quickly. They welcome visitors with grace and charm, but if you go, don’t get your hopes of being able to take any bottles with you, but maybe getting on the mailing list will confirm some in the future!

2003 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – Already incredibly smooth, the dark, inky purple juice produced plummy, blackberry tones with even, opulent spice qualities. With some swirling, the spices opened up to produce Moroccan-like qualities of elegance with cinnamon, ginger, clove, and sumac. There was some rustic, tobacco qualities on the finish. Only 1,200 cases to be produced. Price unknown.

2003 Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon – Again, intensely dark fruit of black cherry more so than the berries of Howell Mountain. Just as jammy in its concentration with more bright fruit up front that tames down to a balanced, perfectly tannic elegance that is bold and smooth. Only 150 cases to be produced. Price unknown.

O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery ~ P.O. Box 923 ~ Angwin ~ CA ~ 94508 ~ 707-965-2898

I was a tad embarrassed when I met Katerena Arger and I hadn’t heard of her family’s winery. I thought I at least knew of all the wineries based in the Napa Valley, but I hadn’t heard of Arger-Martucci. Just a block or so behind Dean & Deluca lies the small cluster of buildings which used to be the home of Villa Helena winery. Purchased in 2000 by the families Arger and Martucci, a new winery was born.

Dr. Kosta M. Arger (a cardiologist by training) began learning winemaking in the 1970s under Joseph Heitz. But never formally trained, he is the winemaker for this two-family dream. And a family-endeavor it certainly is. Kosta’s daughter, Katarena, acts as the general manager for the tasting room, runs the hospitality events, and attends the public functions, representing the wines. Katarena’s mother, Julie, also imports olives oils and Balsamic vinegars. The Martucci side, Rich Martucci handles the financial paperwork side with son Richard, Jr. managing the winery and Rich Sr’s wife, Carole, helping out behind scenes. All the grapes are grown on four different estate-owned vineyards.

Completely unassuming, the tasting room is nothing more than a family kitchen, where Katarena will pour the selection, but only Thursday through Monday. She might pull out some cheese samples from an adjacent refrigerator and sit down and join you in a glass, easily exuberant about the great wines being made by a family of friends. As the warm summer months draw near and more learn about the excellent offerings, Katerena will start hosting the tastings immediately outside the kitchen; next to the swimming pool.

2002 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Chardonnay – Golden straw color. Buttery kiwi tones tease the nose and a bright, tangy mouth entry fills out and blossoms with creamy honeyed pear finish. $22.00

2004 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Viognier – A barrel-taste of the as-yet-to-be-bottled wine. Delightful honeysuckle aromas with a subtle and elegant creamy mouth feel. Price unavailable.

2001 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Pinot Noir – Bright cherry bouquet with hints of dark earthiness. The cherry continues into the flavor which is soft and balanced. $30.00

2003 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Syrah – Beautiful, dark inky in color. Tantalizes with intensely perfumey aromas that back away to produce a hoisin-like sweetness. Opulent and balanced with concentrated rich black cherry and wild berry flavors that produces a hint of sweetness on the back-palate. Smooth and stunning. $25.00

2001 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon – From vineyards on Atlas Peak at 1,500 elevation, the slightest hint of green bell pepper on the nose immediately subsides to produce dark, husky tones of tobacco and black cherry which expands to produce smooth tannins. Long, layered, and balanced. $50.00

2002 Odyssey – A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Merlot, at a surprising 13.9% alcohol. Candy-shop aromas tease with layers of clove and cinnamon. The mouth entry produces brambleberry, blue- and blackberry tones. Even and smooth the finish is long and silky. Forgot to get the price on this one.

2004 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Dulcinea – A true, natural botrytis-produced wine, but only when the conditions are perfect. As the story goes, “in November of 2002, Jeff Sowells, owner of Topaz Winery, offered a small amount of botrytised Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon to Arger-Martucci and with his help, produced this blend of 2/3 SauvBlanc to 1/3 botrytised Semillon.” Amazing how a little mold on some grapes can produce such intensely flavors. In this offering, honey-laden apricots and peaches which is long and smooth and perfectly elegant. $45.00/375ml.

Arger-Martucci ~ 1456 Inglewood Avenue ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 04574 ~ 707-963-4334

Domaine Chandon is one of the many sparkling wine producers in the Napa Valley. It has a name that demands respect with a worldwide lineage of wine producers almost unparalleled; as a subsidiary of French-based Mõet Hennessy, along with their California winery, they have wine-making estates in Argentina, Australia, Spain and Brazil. Besides the attraction of a quality sparkling product, the Chandon estate is quite plain and simply down-right stunning. I tend to go first thing on Sunday mornings for brunch as the tasting bar offers a small menu including cheeses, pâté, or a simple bowl of olives.

The building complex is of natural wood in sweeping and sloping forms which complement the overgrown, woodland-like landscaping in which it resides. Before ever entering the building, one is met with artwork. Local artist Richard Botto began constructing natural pieces out of river rocks and later began to incorporate forged metal into his pieces. Botto’s works are found all over the grounds, from an installation piece of a field of Mushrooms found right as you are approaching the entrance, to pieces appearing to be in a far off field, which can be seen through the large windows of the tasting room.

Upon entering the building, you will immediately find yourself in the ’boutique,’ essentially the sales area. The staff are gracious in guiding you through the education center, towards an upper floor where both the restaurant and tasting salon are located. It is quite refreshing to not be immediately inundated with a mass of people at a tasting bar into which you have to fight to find a spot. Another added benefit is that very fact that the retail sales are done away from the tasting room so there is never the feeling of hard sales by the person pouring and explaining their wine.

The entire layout is spacious and luxurious. Along with some small tables and chairs near the tasting bar, more seating is available outside in a veranda area where guests are welcome to stay and relax. A well-known restaurant is encased within the tasting salon headed by respected chef Ron Wood. Of the wine itself, while single or multiple tastings are available, single glasses and whole bottles are also available. It is all about making the guest comfortable and if sipping some sparkling on a sunny afternoon is your sartori, Chandon is the place…

Chandon Brut Classic – Roughly 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay (a touch of Pinot Meuniere, but not exactly how much). Two years on yeast. Bright pineapple nose which is ever so slightly yeasty. Classic apple and pear notes. $17.00

Chandon Reserve Brut – Same 70/30 ratio as the Classic, but this wine sees four years on yeast. Surprisingly malo aromas of the Chardonnay. Creamy entry with a toasty finish. $24.00

Chandon Blanc de Noirs – 92% Pinot Noir with 8% Pinot Meuniere. Subtle bouquet of berries; strawberry and cherry with a crisp finish. $17.00

étoile Brut – A bit of the reverse from the first sparklings, with 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, this wine stays on the yeast a full five years. Elegant and ever so slightly yeasty, hints of honeysuckle in the middle. $35.00

étoile Rosé – 8% still Pinot Noir is added for the color. Bright salmon color with refined berry tones. Creamy entry with crisp, fruity finish. $40.00

Chandon Riche – Ripe, supple honey aromas and mouth entry which included apricot and peach. Ever so slightly sweet – not exactly a demi-sac but an extra-dry that enticed quite nicely. $17.00

2002 Domaine Chandon Chardonnay, Carneros – 30% malo which produced a hint of oak. The wine was refreshing and oddly figgy in a creamy sort of way. Pleasant. $19.00

2001 Domaine Chandon Pinot Noir, Carneros – Pale ruby in color with heightened strawberry aromas. A hint of earthiness on the entry that finished with a light spice. $29.00

2002 Domaine Chandon Piont Meunier, Carneros – Odd to see a 100% Pinot Meunier, Chandon claims to have introduced the grape to this country. Very bright, almost fluorescent red. Clean, raspberry nose with bright tannins on the acidic mid-palate. Peppery finish. $29.00

Domaine Chandon ~ One Californian Drive ~ Yountville ~ CA ~ 95499 ~ 707-944-2280