Ultimate California Wine Blog

I have had a long-standing appreciation for Markham, but only partly because of their wines. They are another in the small family of wineries that heavily support the arts. In their case, the visitor’s center, which is opulently filled with home decorations, jewelry, fixtures, and one-of-a-kind kitchenware, also doubles as an art gallery.

There is a small-ish gallery space downstairs, by the tasting bar, but a more expansive gallery space throughout the hallways of their corporate offices upstairs. Guests are invited to take their glasses as they wander around and view the exhibits which change every four months (reasons to go back often). Along with the revolving exhibits, there are a number of permanent sculptures throughout the grounds.

Along with the art which thrills me, Markham also produces pretty decent juice. Mostly known for their Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignons, of late I have been limiting my tastes to the lesser-known varietals. Markham offers three levels of tasting when you visit; Premium Wines for $5.00 (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and and Cabernet Sauvignon), Hard to Fine Wines for $8.00 (Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Franc, and Petite Sirah), and a Library Reserve Tasting for $15.00 (a revolving library of two different vintage Merlot [one a Reserve] and two vintage Cabernet Sauvignon [one a Reserve]). My suggestion? Bring two friends, get all three tastings, get to taste all the winery has to offer! But if you do, don’t forget to spit a little…

2003 Sauvignon Blanc – Clear and light in color, grassy apple and kiwi aromas adequately anticipate the bright and engaging crispness. Balanced, acidity on the mineral finish. $14.00

2003 Chardonnay – Creamy, vanilla nose but approached the mouth a bit too bright and crisp which I believe is nothing other than having been stuck in the ice too long. Too cold and it masked all the flavors, but I couldn’t stick around long enough to let it warm up. $18.25

2002 Pinot Noir – Bright ruby red, almost fluorescent color. Effusive with bright, ripe raspberry, hinting towards cinnamon. Balanced entry that was even and round, with a slightly tight finish. $24.00

2003 Pinot Noir – Red, garnet color that produced a tad more earthy, raspberry aroma, layered with clove and anise. Dark aromas masked the acidic mid-palate and tight, dry finish. $24.00

2000 Petite Sirah – Incredibly spicy licorice and anise bouquet that absolutely exploded with aromas. Dark, spicy fruit on the tantalizing entry that was slightly dry in the middle. Even, expected mineral finish that kept going. $28.75

Markham Vineyards ~ 2812 St. Helena Highway North ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5292

The idea of a "hidden treasure" in the Napa Valley is hard to justify, especially those on either the main drag of the 29 or on the Silverado Trail. There are too many vanity wineries with well-trained sales staff, stunningly decorated tasting rooms, and retail displays designed to part tasters with their cash. I have no compunction whatsoever in stating that Van Der Heyden STILL qualifies as a hidden treasure, for while it does lie on the Silverado Trail, the buildings and presentation of and by Andre Van Der Heyden is quite a treat.

A small cluster of buildings lies hidden from view behind the vineyards and sign on the street’s edge. The cluster is exactly that — signs direct guests underneath a temporary canopy to the tasting room which is little more than a trailer, barely able to hold more than eight or ten people. No frills and no glitz, on any given day all you will find is the diminutive personage of the larger-than-life Andre Van Der Heyden.

Andre came to California from Holland in 1963. After taking a home winemaking class in 1973, in 1977 he found a small piece of vineyard property just south of the Stags Leap District (before it was known as the Oak Knoll appellation) and opened his own winery. Still family owned and operated almost thirty years later, the character of its owner is more than worth a visit (but be prepared to listen closely — after telling his story so many times, he tends to speak very, very quickly!)

2001 Van Der Heyden Napa Valley Estate Chardonnay – 100% malo with 100 French oak for ten months. Sweet, mango aromas which enter the mouth with dark and buttery tones which gives way a tangy mid-palate and finishes with bright, mineral tones. $22.00

2001 Van Der Heyden Merlot – Deep, dark, and elegant Moroccan spices on the nose which anticipates the dark Cabernet Sauvignon-like entry into the mouth. Stunning with a long, heightened finish. $35.00

2000 Van Der Heyden Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Aged 43 months in French oak! Intensely rich, dark nose of blackberry and chocolate-covered cherry aromas. Soft entry into the mouth with an extended, toasty vanilla finish. $50.00

2001 Van Der Heyden Estate Late Harvest Cabernet Sauvignon – "The only winery in the world producing a Late Harvest Cab! Harvested in 2001, to be bottled in 2005, 34 months in French oak." I was very fortunate to stumble into Van Der Heyden just as this amazing wine was bottled. There is a misnomer that all late-harvest wines are overtly sweet and while this wine has 5% residual sugar, I did not anticipate the dark, layered complexity of this wine. There was the meatiness of a Cabernet and the hint of sweetness from the late-harvest qualities gave the wine a characteristic of BBQ meat. I drove away simply thinking, "it was grilled BBQ in a glass." Truly astonishing. $50.00/375ml

NV White Table Wine – Only the fourth time having been made, this wine is a blend of Late Harvest Semillon, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of green apple and citrus almost contradict the rich, creamy entry. While slightly syrupy in consistency, it is not sickly sweet with a crisp, dry finish. $18.00

Van Der Heyden Vineyards ~ 4057 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 800-948-WINE

Miner is a relative new-comer on the Napa wine-making page, having only been established in 1998. But in those few short years, Dave and Emily Miner, along with Dave’s parents Ed and Norma, have built an amazing business. There is an impressive building as wine-making facilities and guest center but there is also very impressive wine.

2002 Chardonnay, Wild Yeast – Full malo, this wine presents a dark, yeasty bouquet underneath which lies a hint of stone fruit. Warm, and buttery on the tongue, there is a surprising freshness with a bright finish. $50.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Rosella’s Vineyard – Over-the-top aromas of wild strawberry and raspberry. Definite WOW factor in the nose which subsides a bit to present a layer of cedar. The soft entry produces balanced berry flavors with a touch of dark spice and a bright, tangy finish. $50.00

2001 Syrah, Napa Valley – From three different vineyards, the aromas immediately presented include candied red hots with layers of dried flowers. The dry mid-palate produces some meaty textures and finishes with dark, spicy notes. $28.00

2001 Merlot, Oakville – Berry jam almost overwhelms. Full and robust, there is a smokiness when it enters the mouth. A spicy cherry finish. $28.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville – Intense dark berry with immense amounts of cassis and spicey aromas. A hint of coffee anticipates the coffee and berry flavors upon entry. Rather tight with a balanced, mineral ending that is dark and luscious and does not seem to end. $50.00

Miner Family Vineyards ~ 7850 Silverado Trail ~ Oakville ~ CA 94562 ~ 800-366-WINE

ZD is one of those places that I drive by twice a day on my way to work. I’ve always admired their gold-gilt sign which is a good thing because the building structure is slightly sunken below the roadway and driving by, most of what you see are rooftops. I had no idea that ZD was the brainchild of two aerospace engineers, Norman de Leuze and Gino Zepponi back in the late 1960s. The de Leuze family runs the show at this point and I was dutifully impressed – at the reception, the facilities, and the wine.

The tasting room is of moderate size, neither too large nor too small, and quite comfortable. Some art is seen scattered about, but not overtly so. A fireplace offers warmth and a hominess in the corner. The pouring staff are tremendously helpful and exuberant. They are obviously here because they like what they are doing and they like the wine they are pouring — something that is surprisingly rare in the industry.

2002 Chardonnay, California – I love a non-ML chard and this one definitely peaked my interest. This wine did see ten months of American oak, which is ever so slightly discernable. Pale in the glass with light aromas of apricot and a hint of floral. Engaging fruit entry that zings into a balanced, even acidic mouth feel. Hint of toast on the finish. $30.00

2002 Reserve Chardonnay, Napa Valley – Eighteen months in American oak, this offering definitely produced complex creamy tones. The apricot aromas seemed more ripe than the previous wine and expanded in the mouth adding to the pear and vanilla qualities. Pleasant, punctuated acidic finish. $48.00

2002 Rosa Lee Pinot Noir, Carneros – Very bright in color and in aromas. Distinctive wild strawberry bouquet complements the strawberry mouth-entry which blossoms into slightly darker, cherry tones. Very engaging with a bit of a smoky, mineral finish. $20.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros – Ten months in French oak give this wine an incredibly rich, dark nose of elegant, jammy berries. Integrated fruit flavors in the mouth produce a bright mid-palate that hints at vanilla but teases only long enough to ultimately produce a mineral finish. $30.00

1998 Pinot Noir, Carneros, Library Selection – Bricky, orange in color, this lovely wine is more Burgundian in its offering with earthy strawberry aromas that give way to a hint of mint. Very balanced, bright flavors with some floral and lavendar flavors and a distinctly cinnamon finish. $40.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Exuberantly dark purple in color, this wine explodes with plummy cherry tones that suggest a little earthiness. Deep and balanced, the brighter entry transforms into muskier tones of tobacco and vanilla but finish with floral qualities. A full metamorphosis in one sip. $42.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Three years in American oak, this is an intensely elegant wine. The aromas of earth, berry, and tobacco just play with you before the soft, even entry explodes with fruit and dark spices that whisper of black licorice. Immensely concentrated, the long, long finish never gives up. $115.00

ZD Wines ~ 8383 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 800-487-7757

Artesa Winery is hands-down one of the most stunningly beautiful establishments in all of winedom. Owned by Spanish-based Cordoniu, it was constructed in 1991 to be a sparkling wine producer. I believe my first visit there was in ’92 or ’93 and I remember well the peaceful, serene surroundings and ultra-elegant glasses of bubbly shared on the terrace over looking the Carneros appellation. But that was over then years ago. Back then, when you drove up, you could actually see the building…

With all its glitz and glamor, Artesa is not located within eye-shot of a major highway. There is no ostentatious edifice which will lure in the uninitiated. You have to hunt for it and even when you think you might be close, you aren’t sure. After driving off a small, access road and around some small hills, all you see is a bump on a grassy hill. Yes, when I first visited the winery ten years ago, the building structure was visible and now it is submerged. You drive up a meandering, slightly twisty road — past a farmhouse here and a smaller winery there, until the grand fairy mound magically appears.

Then, you actually see stairs, flanked by thin, parallel fountains with water that runs down as you ascend, like a stream coming down a mountain. At the pinnacle, a large pool of dark water with modern cleaves of metal jutting out and fountains which anoint the visitor with a mist, a spray to cleanse before entering.  A sharp, black glass angle heaves its way from the organic mass next to the threshold – making its presence known. You are Thomas Mann’s Hans Castorp and this magic mountain will transform.

Stepping inside is a moment of metamorphosis. Warm wood and spaces separated only with clear glass and a multitude of smooth columns, the immensity is immediately apparent. Art is everywhere. Sculptures of glass, paper, clay, wood, and more — not crowded and overwhelming, but strategically placed in such a manner to complement and entice. A non-art lover might never realize what surrounds them. And if a history buff is part of the entourage, neither will they be disappointed as an extensive historical museum has been established, instructing in both the history of the area as well as the history of wine in general.

Besides the tremendous growth of grass over the estate, a few other changes have been underway. While an occasional sparkling is now made, in 1999 the company changed direction entirely towards the production of still wine. To my immense joy, the winery has also established an artist-in-residence program as well, which explains the ever-evolving display which so entranced yours truly. The tasting room is large, but there are only two tasting bars to accommodate the crowds, although guests are more than welcome to sit at one of the many minimalist-designed seatings. One bar is devoted to VIPs and wine club guests. The only complaint, if there could be one, is with the acoustics. With the vaulted ceilings set above voluminous amounts of wood and glass, when the room is full it becomes very, very loud. Visit Artesa, but go on a weekday and if you admire modern art, make sure to give yourself ample time — this is not an establishment that can be rushed. Oh yeah, and they make pretty good wine, too:

2001 Artesa Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County – Light garnet color with a warm, dark berry nose. Well-balanced acidity complements the Indian spices which tantalize the finish. $25.00

2002 Artesa Pinot Noir, Carneros – Effusive, black raspberry bouquet gave way to dark, spicy notes. Almost the antithesis of the bright, engaging mouth entry which finished quite smoothly. $20.00

2002 Artesa Reserve Pinot Noir, Carneros – Exciting classic fruit combinations of cherry, blueberry, and cassis produce an elegant aroma. A soft entry produces more cherry and complements with spice. More balanced and expansive than the previous two with a long, round finish. $40.00

2000 Artesa Merlot, Sonoma Valley – Hints of green bell pepper give way to bigger plum nose qualities. Huge mid-palate of vanilla with a dry-ish, spicy finish. $19.99

2000 Artesa Merlot, Napa Valley – Bigger green bell pepper aromas, akin to the Stags Leap District. Darker fruit of black plum with relatively soft tannins. $19.99

2001 Merlot, Napa Valley – Orangy, garnet color. Bright berry and cherry with a hint of a green, mineral finish. It approaches the tongue as soda-pop would; effusive cherry cola but lays back to produce earthier qualities. $19.99

2000 Artesa Reserve Merlot, Sonoma Valley – Elegant, candy-like bouquet which blossoms with full, dark brambleberries. The candy in the nose transforms into rose petals on the tongue followed by darker berries, vanilla, and a distinct coffee-like finish. $50.00

2001 Artesa Syrah, Sonoma Valley – Exciting dark fruits like black plum, black raspberry, and blackberry that is full and balanced. Very, very easy to drink. This would make a great beginner’s Syrah as an introduction wine. $15.99

2001 Elements Proprietary Blend – 72% Merlot, 10% Syrah, and the rest a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and 2% Tempranillo. This wine as touted as an "exotic and spicy blend of Bordeaux and Rhone varietals." Interesting concept. There is definitely a WOW factor with the first sniff which produces candied red hots and subsides to produce lots of fruit. The mouth entry is bright and the subsequent taste is not exceptionally full or deep, but very, very interesting and fun. $19.99

2001 Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley – Jammy and perfumey with floral tones in its aroma. Very soft, velvety entry which tightens a bit. Herbal finish that is surprisingly accommodating. $30.00

2001 Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – A bit of candy shop on the nose in its vanilla and bright berry fruit. Dry mid-palate shows dark spices like clove and cumin which belies its overall brightness. $30.00

2000 Artesa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Huge, syrupy, sweet nose. Port-like aromas do not prepare for the velvety, creamy entry. Long and silky a mid-palate of vanilla extract with hints of balsamic that finishes rather earthy. $60.00

NV Artesa Select Late Harvest Gewurztraminer, San Benito County – At 9.5% residual sugar, I would have thought this wine sweeter than it was. Pale, straw-like colors do not anticipate the strikingly bright and smooth entry. Aromas of litchi and apricot do not prepare for the taste which is the pure Essence of Gewurztraminer. Surprisingly smooth and even with a silky finish. $27.50

Artesa ~ 1345 Henry Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94559 ~ 707-224-1668