Ultimate California Wine Blog

Cakebread is one of the local wineries with an outstanding reputation for quality and hospitality — and now I know why. Jack and Dolores Cakebread have been producing wine in the Rutherford appellation for over thirty years. In that time, they have helped pioneer the art of food and wine pairing and are bringing those philosophies to the those outside the valley through their cookbook, The Cakebread Cookbook – Napa Valley Cookbook.

Cakebread is also one of the appointment-only wineries, but somewhat of an oddity as it lies on the busy Highway 29, which sees so much tourist traffic. There no flashy sign and a small collection of buildings  almost hide among a cluster of large bushes to dissuade the casual visitor. The logistics of the tasting are finely tuned. You enter the reception room to check in before going to the retail area where you presented with your glass and a taste of Sauvignon Blanc, waiting for your host to begin.

There are a variety of levels of tasting offered; a simple tasting, a full tour and tasting, a wine and food tasting experience, or a wine sensory evaluation tasting. I opted for the simple tasting and yet it still included a partial tour as the lack of a central, be-all tasting area makes for a more intimate, one-on-one setting for experiencing the wine. The schedule for tastings are finely timed and after sipping the SauvBlanc for a few minutes, our host takes us away to a corner in the barrel room to continue with the line-up.

Upon entering the barrel room, we could hear the jocularity of another group already well underway on the other side of the barrels. From the side of the room we were tasting, a stunning view of the adjacent gardens was available which only enticed the desire to return for the full in depth tour and tasting as I witnessed other groups being led around. Our own pouring host was delightfully slow and deliberate, not rushing anyone through their experience, fully explaining each wine before pouring, and elaborating on its production or potential food pairing during the tasting. Also offered with the tastings were fabulously informative cards which not only provided technical production information, but a suggested recipe for pairing the wine with food. A great idea…

2003 Sauvignon Blanc – Green apple and kiwi tones on the nose. Acidic entrance which blossomed into warm peach and fig flavors in the mouth. A bright, invigorating finish with enticing crispness. $19.00

2003 Chardonnay, Napa Valley – The mainstay of the winery, this wine makes up 100,000 of the 400,000 cases produced. A non-ML chardonnay which sees eight to ten months in oak. A hint of green apple aromas gives way to a warmer pear bouquet. Sweeter upon entry than I would have anticipated with a full, silky mouth feel and more earthy notes. A slightly dry, acidic finish which was a lovely punctuation. $34.00

2002 Chardonnay Reserve, Napa Valley – 17% ML, this wine sees fourteen months in oak. Engaging pear and peach aromas anticipate the classic butterscotch entry into the mouth. Some acid on the back palate produces more melon qualities with a full and rich long finish. $49.00

2002 Merlot, Napa Valley – This Merlot has 7% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. Immediate cocoa and blackberry bouquet subsides for a dark plummy nose. Full bodied and more tannic than I might have liked, the dark berry and spice mid-palate will definitely expand and balance over time. $48.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 11% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Very enticing aromas of berry, currant, cocoa, and chocolate-covered cherries anticipate the opulent fig and vanilla mid-palate. Very lush and full, a cassis finish continues to entice. $55.00

2002 Syrah, Carneros-Napa Valley – Inky, inky color. Exciting black pepper and dark Oriental spice intrigue the tongue. Entry of black cherry, vanilla, and roasted fig gives way to a finish of roasted meat. Huge wine. Can’t wait to try again! $43.00

Cakebread ~ 8300 St. Helena Highway ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-1067

Long Meadow Ranch could very well be one of the most impressive establishments I have visited. As an appointment-only winery, the long, single-lane, twisty road up the hillside of the Mayacamas Mountains, brings one to an unassuming white gate with a non-ornate, handmade sign indicating you have arrived. That incline up to elevation 1,100 keeps them from the Rutherford appellation (which ends at elevation 600 or so).

Continuing up the road, the building which awaits you is almost cathedral-like in its architecture. Stark and elegant, with geometric angles rising up to greet the sky, it is not ostentatious or garish. It is not painted a bright color or decorated with unnecessary ornamentation. Dare I say, it is a Howard Roark-like structure. It seems that when Ted and Laddie Hall started the winery, they dug the caves first (a pretty smart move, considering the number of wineries whose caves are built after the fact). With all the dirt excavated from that cave construction, an ingenious architect decided to construct the building with rammed earth. Rammed earth buildings is a process of sustainable architecture which is earth-friendly reducing the drain on dependence of non-renewable energy sources.

Besides the stunning building as a fabulous winery, the Halls’ 650+ acres are used to raise 250 head of Highland cattle, an organic vegetable garden, and olive tress. As I mentioned back in the B.R. Cohn post, a number of wineries also produce olive oil. What I didn’t realize is that while Long Meadow Ranch is one of those who grows olives for oil, they may be one of the very few to have an authentic frantoio — the stone grinders used to crush the olives for oil.

I was extremely fortunate to taste a vertical of their entire production as well as some as-yet-unreleased wines. Nothing but Cabernet Sauvignon is produced and it was halfway through the tasting that I realized why I was so impressed with the wine: Not only is it produced from mountain vineyards, but every single wine tasted is below 14% alcohol. This is almost unheard of and when I queried about how this was accomplished, Ted explained that because of the vineyards’ placement, it sees 45 minutes more southerly sun than most other wineries. It is all part of the computations of hang-time and brix levels and it made for amazingly accessible wines which were a joy to taste:

1994 – Perfectly aged. 100% Cabernet. Aromas of sweet oak and subtle cedar with a hint of eucalyptus and blueberry. Slightly bricky color. Smooth and even and robust. Long, elegant finish. (No price)

1995 – 100% Cabernet. Dark garnet color. Opulent dark fruit with a whisper of oak and then mint. Blackberry entry on mouth with ultra soft tannins. Long silky tones  with a cocoa finish. $75

1996 – 100% Cabernet. HUGE, rich and complex with dates and dark fruit. More cocoa and clove on a second whiff. Balanced with long spicy notes throughout. $85

1997 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Purple color. Such supple and elegant aromas of nutmeg and spicey clove with a hint of cinnamon. Wild raspberry still heightens the tannins with an even, layered eucalyptus finish. $85

1998 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Very bright fruit of raspberry with citrus peel after it. Very dark and supple on entry which brightens in the mouth. Bit of spice and engaging. A bit of tang with a fennel and warm fruit finish. (No price)

1999 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Blackberry, Chocolate/Cherry on the nose. Balanced but a tad tart, not unpleasantly so. Massive plummy entry. $60

2000 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Rich red plum, cherry, and dried fruit. Then some dried floral aromas. Viscous an rich with more dried fruit concentration in the mid-palate. Long, long, nice. $55

2001 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Candy shop opulence. Plum and berry nose which don’t quit. Layered spices tantalize the mouth. $55

2002 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Bit of bell pepper give way to complex Oriental spice aromas. Already even and balanced in the mouth with a long, plummy finish. (Not priced yet)

2003 – 3% Cabernet Franc. Over the top fruit of berry, plum, and cocoa. Mouth entry of chocolate-covered cherries and more spice. Very bright with a long finish. Already very accessible. (Not priced yet).

Long Meadow Ranch ~ P.O. Box 477 ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-4555

Merryvale is one of the biggies on Highway 29. The large stone building is covered with vine and sits just across the street from restaurant Tra Vigne, burger stand Taylor’s Refresher, and is the last winery before you drive over the bridge into the hamlet of St. Helena. The building has been there a long time, laying claim to the fame of being the first winery built after the the repeal of Prohibition.

It is famous also for its oft-photographed dinner parties in their barrel room. The photograph in question has been used in more Napa PR documents that I can count. Not that that is a bad thing, but I’ve never been invited to one and am anxiously waiting! Before I moved to Napa, Merryvale was one of the wineries I was brought to as a tourist. Convenient, attractive, and tourist-friendly, it is a great stop on the main drag as they have an offering 23 different wines.

They also have the distinction of being one of the few wine-tasting establishments open late; 6:30 p.m. (where most have to close up at 4:00 or 5:00 p.m.) There is something to be said for tasting late in the day. The tasting room is quite large and the pouring staff extremely gregarious and friendly. The tasting menus are various and if you just indicate a style or a varietal that you are interested in, it will be poured for you.

– Standard grassy and tropical fruit aromas don’t prepare for the rich, creamy entry in the mouth. Pineapple and citrus dominates and I was pleasantly pleased with the balance and ripe flavors. $22

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros – Earth and raspberry tones in the bouquet which was very effusive and rich. Almond and toasty nuts flavors in the dark berry fruit provided a very long finish. $35

2000  Reserve Merlot, Napa Valley – 92% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Slightly orange, bricky colors on the edge. Aromas of very fresh green bell pepper. Dark fruit flavors underneath very tight tannins. $29

2000 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot. Initial nose of bramble berry gave way to oak and black pepper. Hot and tight on entry belied its age. Lots of swirling forced open a little more dark fruit which produced an incredibly long finish. $32

2001 Syrah, Napa Valley – I had more fun smelling this wine! First I got Hoisin sauce. Then some beefy-like salami. Then brighter fruit behind a little fennel. The entry was tannic and hotter than I would have liked. It stayed hot but finished long which made me believe it would cellar very nicely. $35

1999 Profile, Napa Valley – 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Hot jalapeno aromas slowly moved aside to show some cedar and oak, but it was mostly a vegetal nose. Tight entry with acidic finish. Would give it another ten years at least. $90

2000 Profile, Napa Valley – 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. OAK overwhelmed the nose. All wood, no fruit. Hot and tight. Hot, hot, hot. $70

2001 Profile, Napa Valley – 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Still wood on the nose, but more dark fruit behind it. Less tight than the previous two, but would still like to taste it in ten years or so. $90

Merryvale ~ 1000 Main Street ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-7777

Pine Ridge Winery is one of those about whom I knew nothing before this blog. I knew of their reputation, but I had never tasted their wines. I placed them in the Stag’s Leap District appellation because that is where there building is located. However, they utilize fruit from five different appellations for their extensive wine list. I was most intrigued with a Howell Mountain Cabernet that they make, but was told that it generally goes to wine club members exclusively and is never tasted in the retail outlet.

The building is expansive and the classic adobe style of California architecture that I grew up with. The tasting room is spare and elegant. A large floral display the only formal decoration. It is not cluttered with mundane tourist items found almost everywhere else. It was rather refreshing in its sparcity. The gentleman who poured for me was elderly and had been with the company for 17 years. No nonense and no hard sell. Just informative on their quality product.

2003 Dijon Clones Chardonnay – 100% ML and one-half of the wine sees new oak. Significant butter bouquet gives way to secondary tropical fruit tones in the nose. Brighter and more clean on the palate than I anticipated considering the heavier butter aromas. Flavors of peach and more tropical fruit dominate. $27.00

2001 Crimson Creek Merlot – 60% of the fruit for this wine comes from Carneros and the other 40% comes from Rutherford. It is actually 76% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Malbec. A slight engagement of green bell pepper hits the nose but gives way to brown sugar and nutmeg. Dark berries dominate the palate and the slightly acidic finish indicates the wine should be cellared for another five to eight years. $27.00

2001 Charmstone – A "proprietary" bland of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. Clear garnet color and substantial bell pepper aromas couple with a hint of brambleberry. Hot cinnamon mid-palate somewhat overwhelmed me. $30.00

2001 Cabernet Franc – Bright ruby color produced an earthy, barnyard bell pepper tone. Significant roasted flavors predominate with a surprisingly thin finish. $35.00

2001 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon – 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Tannat. Again, classic bell pepper aromas up front, gives way to some black olive and black pepper. Tasting produced a brighter, smoother mouth feel than the nose predicted. Long finish of black fruit. $39.00

2000 Andrus Reserve – Another "proprietary" blend of the Bordeaux varietals all planted in the Rutherford appellation. Dark, rustic flavors of roasted coffee and oak fill the bouquet and anticipate flavors of mocha in the mouth. A slight vanilla finish which was long and predicted a wine which would age well. $95.00

Pine Ridge Winery ~ 5901 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-252-9777

Baldacci Vineyards is another winery along the Silverado Trail that is small and easy to miss – but definetely worth looking for. Their sign is small and attached to their gate. Their tasting room unassuming, a mere shack compared to the palatial palaces and villas that speckle the landscape. They are a relatively new winery as Tom Baldacci (a home builder by trade) started off purchasing old, heritage vineyards to sell grapes to other wine producers. Later, he decided he wanted to make the wine himself.

Not being satisfied with the old vines, he set about replanting to increase productivity in the soil. He got local wunderkind Rolando Herrera as his winemaker (Rolando has his own Mi Sueno label which is pretty fabulous!). The wine? A single offering of a limited production estate-grown Cabernet. But what a wine…

2000 was their first vintage and I was fortunate to taste both the first and second vintage of their estate wine (they also produce a limited production Cabernet, named after Tom’s wine, Brenda, which was not available to taste).

2000 Baldacci Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – With one acre of Cabernet Franc vineyards, there is a 9% CabFranc blended into this wine. Tremendous brambleberry aromas come from a wine that is downright inky in color. Elegant cocoa and eucalyptus flavors come through and a long, velvety finish continues.

2001 Baldacci Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – This wine has 6 1/2% Cabernet Franc and for a change, instead of the classic Stag’s Leap manure smell that I tend to tire of from this appellation, this wine effuses dark, rustic fruit and oak with a hint of tobacco. Flavors of dark cherry and blackberry produce mid-palate and the finish is vanilla and wonderfully extensive.

Baldacci Family Vineyards ~ 6236 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-944-9261