Ultimate California Wine Blog

Before I moved to the Napa Valley, I would drive up on three- and four-day weekends from Los Angeles.  Robert Sinskey Vineyards was one of my favorite wineries during every visit. This is the bain of the neophyte visitor — you find a great place and it is hard to move on to discover other great places, but always happy and satisfied knowing an old friend is there for you. I was initially drawn to Sinskey because of a friend’s invitation, but have gone back many times because of their Pinots.

One of the many charms that Sinskey offers is more than good wine. I have always received exceptional, personal service from the pouring staff. Upon arrival, guests are greeted with architecture that is both modern and austere, yet constructed of wood that is warm and inviting.  For its categorization, I have placed it in both the Napa Carneros appellation, where the bulk of their vineyards are located (200+ acres) as well as the Stag’s Leap District appellation, where their winery physically stands but is also the home of their Cabernet vineyards (4 acres of Cabernet and 1/2 acre of Merlot).

The entry into the tasting room presents exaulted, open ceilings and a semi-round tasting bar which instead of offering sharp, angular, psychologically sharp corners, softens the room making it immediately comfortable and inviting. There are many of the standard retail items strewn about, but not blatantly so and more set back. Directly behind the tasting bar are large, glass windows behind which displays part of the wine making area with stainless steel vats. At the end of a normally retail-oriented space, is a small presentation kitchen with wood-fired stone oven. This is all related to Maria Helms-Sinskey’s belief that wine tastes better with food and has subsequently also written the well known The Vineyard Kitchen.

When tasting their wine, they continue with the philosophy that wine pairs better with food. Inasmuch, small ramekins of rosemary-scented Marconi almonds and Nicoise olives are set out with olive oil crackers to taste with the wine. And one last point before the wine notes; I was a tad surprised that much of the Pinot I tasted for this blog is the same vintage that I tasted three years ago; 2000. However, I have been assured that a number of new vintages will be released at the beginning of March; a 2002 Los Carneros Pinot and the 2001 Four Vineyards. More exciting, however, is the news that later in the year will be the presentation of some vineyard-specific Pinots which I will anxiously await: The Vandal Vineyard, The Three Amigos, and The Capa Vineyard Pinots.

2003 Pinot Blanc, Los Carneros – 100% stainless steel produces a surprisingly warm nose of aromatic jasmine and citrus blossom. Thick, engaging mid-palate which produces melon flavors. The tanginess that is normally perceived in Sauvignon Blanc appears in this wine as part of the finish. $18.00

2002 Chardonnay, Three Amigos Vineyard – Los Carneros of Napa Valley – Eight to ten months of French oak don’t overpower this Chard, probably because there was no malo fermentation used. Initial bouquet of apple and vanilla anticipates the deeper flavors of pear and toasted nut. Very long, silky finish. $30.00

2004 Vin Gris – Pinot Noir Rose – Beautiful peach color with wild strawberry aromas. Extremely bright and engaging. Warm nose with a soft entry that builds and effuses. Keeps going and going. Must try with BBQ! $16.00

2000 Four Vineyards Pinot Noir – Los Carneros of Napa Valley – Very bright red raspberry nose just barely hides a secondary aroma of vegetal pepper. First tastes produce strawberry and minerally tones which give way to a slightly acidic finish that diminishes quickly. Having tasted this vintage upon its release several years ago, I believe the wine is waning. $46.00

2001 Merlot – Los Carneros of Napa Valley – A blend of 76% Merlot with 24% Cabernet, but this Cabernet was not from Stag’s Leap, but Carneros. Green bell pepper bouquet which made me think it might have been from Stag’s Leap District, but I think the bell pepper aromas were the Cabernet. Harsh, astringent entry with a hint of mint in the mid-palate. Tannic finish. $26.00

1999 Vineyard Reserve, Napa Valley – 52% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Another earthy entry, quite probably from Stag’s Leap District Cabernet. Bouquet of mint and spice. Extracted pine in the mouth with a cocoa finish. $36.00

Robert Sinskey Vineyards ~ 6320 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-944-9090

There are a number of wineries in the heart of the Napa Valley which are are neither on Highway 29 nor on the Silverado Trail. These are hidden off side roads which connect the main two arteries. Plumpjack is just off the Trail and with their, artistic vaulted sign, a winery that must be searched for. The entrance is up a long, thin road and the facilities are beautifully ensconced among olive trees. Here in the Northern California, the Plumpjack name holds quite a reputation. Besides the winery itself, they also have a chain of restaurants and have interest in a number of local inns.

The tasting room itself also has an artistic flair. Upon walking towards the building, I admired the color scheme of the building itself as well as the circular frame around a tree bench. The colors are contemporary and inviting and the landscaping provides a very warm reception. It was only a small anticipation of what was to await me inside.

The interior of the tasting room is warm, sage with fabulously modern touches in its decorations. The sage color continues throughout and makes for a rather dark room, but fun in nature. The contemporary artistic motifs which bedeck the tasting bar, wall, and ceiling are fun and whimsical. Sadly for me, the day I visited they were sold out of their Syrah and Cuvee, only leaving two wines to taste — and one which was a tad too young:

2002 Plumpjack Reserve Chardonnay, St. Helena – No malo, but surprisingly rich. Tropical fruit aromas of pineapple and mango with a whisper of orange peel. Complex, layered mouth feel which finishes in vanilla and a touch of coconut. $42.00

2002 Plumpjack Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville – Tremendous plummy bouquet diminishes to green pepper. Tight tannins somewhat hid the black cherry in the mid-palate. The sharp, acidic finish confirmed that  the wine had just been released and the bottle just opened. Would benefit from aging and decanting. $62.00

Plumpjack Winery ~ 620 Oakville Cross Road ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-945-1220

First off, a note about the appellation… Carneros is an oddity among appellations as it has vineyards and wineries in both Napa county and Sonoma county – it is the only appellation to break county lines. Consequently, there is Carneros Napa and there is Carneros Sonoma. I suppose if I weren’t trying to categorize my entries by County AND Appellation, I wouldn’t have this problem, but I do. On that note, a not-to-be missed winery in EITHER county is Domaine Carneros by Taittinger.

Domaine Carneros is the brainchild of the Taittinger family in France as their efforts to bring their sparkling wine skills to California. The building "was inspired by the historic and lovely Louis XV style Chateau de la Marquetterie in Champagne, France. The site of the Marquette was originally an abbey press house. In the 17th Century Frere Oudart, the abbey’s cellarmaster made significant contributions to refining the Champagne making process. Today the Chateau de la Marquetterie in France is the country home and estate of the Taittinger family."

We have this amazing replica of a French chateau but is it all hype? Not in my opinion. While not as exceptional as "real" French champagne, I think there is a great deal of brouhaha about folks not liking California sparkling wine because they compare it to the great houses in Europe, in many ways, there is much to be said for the sparkling wines produced in California. Besides, what I really like about Domaine Carneros is not their sparkling as much as the fact that they produce Pinot…

When you enter the grand building, you are greeted by a multitude of friendly servers and something of an anomoly in wine country tasting rooms: Sit Down Service. No bar to belly-up to here, just a scattering of tables with servers who pour, serve, and inform. When the weather is fair, that service extends to the terrace. Nothing can be nicer than sipping some bubbly while lounging over the span of vineyards in your view. Along with their alcoholic offerings, there is a menu placed before you with cheese trays and caviar. The cheese trays are wine-specific with both an offering for their sparkling service and Pinot service.

For my last visit, we opted for both the sparkling tasting and the Pinot tasting. The sparkling wine is served in appropriately-fluted glasses, but they are charmingly miniature in size, serving a perfect two-ounce pour in what looks like a full glass. There are also laminated cards where they place the glasses so you don’t mix up which wine is which. There are always some almonds along with the service as well. The servers work very hard to make sure there is not a long wait as many pull double duty, checking in on tables that have already been served.  And the wines are pretty darned good too:

SPARKLING
2001 Domaine Carneros Brut Vintage – 65% Piont Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 3% Pinot Blanc. This wine comprises half of the winery’s entire production, about 3,000 cases worth. Bright and unassuming, thre are notes of citrus, melon, and a hint of toasted nut on the nose. Aged on the yeast for three years, it has even yeast structure and doesn’t overwhelm. $24.00

NV Domaine Carneros Brut Rose – 38% Chardonnay, 62% Pinot Noir, and 5% still Pinot (where the color comes from!). Creamy strawberry bouquet with a hint of peach. This is a winery-only wine which is elegant but I wish a bit more affordable. $34.00

1998 La Reve Blanc de Blanc – La Reve means "the dream" which is a reference to the entire establishment and what the Taittinger family had to go through to get the winery here in Napa. This sparkling is 100% Chardonnay is aged six years and is made in very small quantities. To me, it smells a bit too yeasty upon first whiff which belies its very long, creamy finish. $55.00

STILL
2003 Avant-Garde Pinot Noir – Clear, garnet color. Earthy aromas give way to a full, jammy nose. It is the lightest and fruitiest of the three tasted. Bright raspberries present in the mouth with a finish of orange peel. $27.99

2002 Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir – Same garnet color, but a tad darker than the Avant Garde. This Pinot is made in 100% French oak. Huge cherry and vanilla bouquet. There is a peppery, cayenne-like spice which enters with first taste that is strong and acidic but gives way to a more elegant, layered cinnamon and clove spice. $27.00

2001 Famous Gate Pinot Noir – This is a winery-only Pinot and presents a tremendous bright raspberry bouquet with hints of orange underneath. A bit oaky, but not overly so. The initial mouthfeel is fruity with plum and brambleberry, but finishes with tobacco. $50.00

Domaine Carneros ~ 1240 Duhig Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-257-3020

Quietly nestled on Highway 29, amongst the stalwarts of tourist haven wineries, lies Ballentine Vineyards, an unassuming gem. For those unfamiliar with Napa, Highway 29 is "the main drag" which houses those wineries which get the bulk of the business from first-time visitors. They attract newbies with ornate, inviting buildings, perfectly manicured landscaping, perhaps an occasional sculpture or fountain. Ballentine cannot boast any of these things, but it can boast an impressive family heritage with longevity in the valley, refreshingly warm and inviting owners, and most importantly, quality wines which are remarkably affordable.

Ballentine could very easily be missed, so keep an eye out. Their tasting room, adjacent to the wine-making facilities hidden by tall brush and trees, is nothing more than a small room, barely able to hold eight or ten people. Hardly ostentatious, to their credit, there is a modicum of decoration and nary a tschotschke in sight. Just a few pieces of artwork on the wall which hearken back to the history — and an amazing history it is. Briefly, back in 1884, Betty Ballentine’s grandfather, Libero Pocai, came to California from Italy and by 1907, had planted vineyards and established the 115th winery bond in the state named L. Pocai and Sons (in 2005, bonded wineries number well over 5,600).

Libero had two sons and it was son Frank who produced two daughters, Betty and Marie. Betty Pocai grew up going to Calistoga High School and working for Charles Krug Winery. As a child of a winery owner, during a piano recital she met another Winery Kid, Van Ballentine. Van’s father, John, immigrated from Ireland in 1910 to San Francisco, but during Prohibition, was able to acquire some choice property in the Napa Valley. That property contained a winery which had been built in 1891, the original Sutter Home estate. Although it had fallen to disuse because of Prohibition, John was patient and it seemed a good place to raise a family. He named the estate after his old home in Ireland, Deer Park. After Prohibition was repealed, John was one of the very first to apply for a winery bond which, at that point, was up to #3595. To this day, all the grapes are estate grown.

Betty and Van have been married over fifty years now and Van has worked more than sixty vintages. Winemaker Bruce Devlin is building a fabulous program of interesting and enticing wines and is passionate about discussing the wines he’s making as well as proud of the recent accolades Ballentine wines has been receiving. Much of what impressed me about Ballentine, besides Betty and Van themselves, was the remarkable quality of the wine considering its price range. The first comment I made upon exiting the tasting room to my friend was, "they should raise their prices." Across the board, consistently great wine at astonishingly affordable prices:

2004 Chenin Blanc, Pocai Vineyards – From older vines. Green grass and green apple aromas.  Pear and citrus blossoms in the mouth and a silky, vanilla finish which was perfectly crisp and acidic. A tad minerally, but not cloyingly so. $14.00

2001 Merlot – 90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Huge raspbery and red currant bouquet. Supple upon entry, a tentative mid-palate of black cherry culminated in a long, luxurious toasty caramel. $22.00

2002 Cabernet Franc – 100% Cabernet Franc. 25% new oak and only 326 cases made. Extremely soft, velvety black cherry mouth which surprised me. Nice caramel feel and a peppery finish. $24.00

2000 Zinfandel –  92.7% Zinfandel, 5.7% Petit Syrah, and 1.6% Syrah. 25% new oak. concentrated flavors of black cherry and raspberry. Quite fruity, warm, and engaging. High acids do not diminish the spicy, long, clingy finish. $18.00

2000 Zinfandel, Block 9 – 45% new oak. HUGE oak nose which was refreshingly clean and bright, not thick. It gave way to some slightly medicinal aromas. Classic bramble berry and rich cherry compote flavors with secondary caramel tones and a luscious vanilla finish. $27.00

2003 Zinfandel, Block 11 – No new oak on this one. First time this wine was produced. Dark, amethyst purple color and intense plum jam bouquet with a follow-up of subtle vanilla notes. Specific cardamom and toasted pecans on the finish. A second swirl after tasting produced more floral aromas and a tad of white pepper. $25.00

2002 Napa Valley Syrah, Betty’s Vineyard – Crisp, mint nose and chocolate explodes immediately upon entering the mouth, giving way to a fresher, jammier undertone of roasted fruit. Brighter and more supple finish that I anticipated. $22.00

2000 Napa Valley Syrah – 40-year old head-trained vineyards produced a surprising aroma of baby powder. Old world, earthy flavors dominated this elegant offering that finished is vanilla and spice. $25.00

2002 Petite Syrah, Nichelini Vineyard – Only 200 cases produced. Layered bouquet of anise, fresh figs, and white pepper while true character of dried cherry and ripe blueberry complemented the toasty mid-palate. A bit chewy, but in a pleasant, exciting way. $24.00

Ballentine Vineyards ~ 2820 St. Helena Highway North ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-7919

Along the Highway 12 corridor lies an amazing building. It is the home of Ledson winery and the building is an Addams Family-like black brick, Gothic castle. There is nothing like it in either Sonoma or Napa — or elsewhere that I can recall. Although it is easy to ascribe the Addams Family as potential inhabitants, it is truly an artistic marvel with a slate stile roof, turrets, spires, and arched entrance ways which contrast with the white window frames, offering a clean sense of stylistic design.

Arriving through the gates, a slow, meandering drive amongst the vines towards fountains and beautifully manicured laws, puts the visitor at awe with his or her surroundings. Much of what Gothic architecture is meant to do is inspire. Based out of 10th Century France, it was an aesthetic movement coming from an era where paganism had just been extinguished and the Catholic Church was establishing itself as the sole spiritual power in the land.

The outline of the architectural movement is derived from the Carolingian developments of Byzantine modifications of the early Christian basilica. In short, it included double western towers, a central tower over the crossing, and a threefold interior system of arcade, triforium, and clerestory. The architecture was mostly seen in churches of the era and was meant to instill fear and adoration in a higher being, namely God.

Why am I writing a short dissertation on Gothic architecture, might you ask? Well, when you arrive at Ledson, whether or not you understand the cultural significance and import, the bottom line is that the imposing structure automatically instills a level of adoration that has yet to be earned, be it a church or a winery. Upon entering the hallowed hallways of Ledson, one is immediately presented with tremendous vaulted ceilings, sweeping stairways, and an imposing chandelier. It is all stunningly beautiful.

Roaming around the establishment, I learned that there are no less than NINE different tasting bars. I was there on a rainy February afternoon and the place was swamped with customers with only four of the nine bars actually serving that day. Being able to finally muscle close enough to a bar for a taste, I was a tad discouraged when I inquired about tasting their Pinot. "Oh, that’s the worst wine we make!" I was told. Not being encouraged, I simply asked him to pour me the wines that were recommended. And while I know I tasted six or seven, I stopped taking notes after the third wine…

2001 Alexander Valley Sangiovese – Aromas of ethyl alcohol. Hot. Burned going down.

2001 Old Vine Zinfandel – Bouquet of petrol. A hint of fruit and spice. No finish.

2002 Bellisimo- A blend of Merlot and Cabernet. Concetrated black fruit nose which belied the gasoline taste.

To get out of Ledson, one must manage the maze of retail. It is rather clever that you can’t go out the way you came in, you have to exit a side entrance through a tremendously-stocked marketplace. It is truly an amazing store that includes cold cuts and cheeses, an espresso bar, a dessert fridge filled with handmade goodies, gifts, and of course, their wine…

Ledson ~ 7335 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12) ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95409 ~ 707-537-3810