Ultimate California Wine Blog

For a change, I have grouped two winery producers in one entry. But only because they share the same building and sign structure. Georis Winery and Talbott Vineyards are located in the Carmel Valley region of Monterey in a small township which has a handful of small, producing wineries. Of all my Monterey visits thus far, these two were some of the most exceptional. Talbott was first, but only by virtue of having their entrance on my right, when I face the building.

I give Talbott Vineyard a great deal of credit for sticking with only two varietals, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I am beginning  to find that wineries which attempt to produce a multitude of different wines often miss the mark on more than one or two. It is also charming that many of Talbott’s wines have been named after their children, Logan, Cynthia, and Kali-Hart.

Of their Chardonnays, I tasted the 2003 Kali-Hart Vineyard Chardonnay ($13.50) which had lovely aromas of tropical fruit like kiwi and pineapple. It was crisp on the tongue and had a medium finish. The 2002 Logan Chardonnay ($18.00) was a bit richer and fuller in the mouth and must have seen more malo fermentation.

Not being a huge Chardonnay fan (but I’m learning!), I really preferred Talbott’s Pinots. The 2001 Kali-Hart Pinot Noir ($13.50) seemed dark in notes and a tad smokey and spicy. The was discernible plum and berry on the finish. The  2001 Logan Pinot Noir ($18.00) was a nice earthy hint of strawberry and cherry and a rich mid-palate with darker fruits and smooth finish. This one was purchased.

Find the Georis tasting area was a bit complicated. Immediately next door to Talbott is Corkcrew Cafe. The sign to Georis points that it is somewhere around the other side of the cafe but all I could see was outdoor seating. I couldn’t tell if the tasting area was part of the outdoor area or not so I went back into the cafe where tastings are also offered. As Shawn was hungry, getting him fed and tasting at the same time seemed reasonable enough.

The inside of the cafe is really love with mottled, rich earth tones of warm sage and brushed dark orange. There are a number of display cases which house their collection of antique cork pulls. On the tables were cards which indicated the varying levels of wine tastings available; "Everyday Wine" for $15.00, "Grand Tasting" for $20.00, or a "Chilled Flight" for $12.00. These tastings include various wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. As none of their specific selections fit my desires, I asked if they would consider letting me just have a Merlot tasting (some of which were on both the Everyday and Grand list, but not all together). The waitress was more than amenable and with my four wines, I ordered a pâté appetizer as my lunch.

I have to say that it was one of the finest home-made pâtés I’ve had and when I complimented the waitress on the quality (also asking if was made in house), she indicated that it was made at their sister restaurant, Casanova. This makes perfect sense as Casanova is my hands-down favorite restaurant in Carmel and is always exceptional with one of the most extensive wine lists (especially half-bottles!) around. As you can see from the picture, the internal piece of the pâté is sold terrine de foie gras surrounded with a nicely-spiced country pate. My only recommendation for plate would be to replace the simple yellow mustard with a moutarde de violet, but that’s just me. Now for the four Merlot:

1998 Estate Georis Merlot – Cloudy. Hot on the nose and ample bell pepper aromas. Orange tints on the edge. Aromas of manure. Thin and flaccid. Little body and sharp tannins. The bell pepper tongue keeps going and going. One sip was enough. $20.00

2002 Le Sanglia Georis Merlot – Rich, ruby colors that pale a bit to the edge. Strong, spicy bramble on the nose. A tad chewy with decent structure, but shallows in mid-palate. Finishes much stronger than initially anticipated on first taste. $28.00

2002 Arroyo Seco Georis Merlot – After the last two, this was more elegant with dark, supple fruit on the nose. Rich and opulent immediately, it pales a bit on the finish. Paler in color than the Le Sanglia, but a stronger wine in the long run. $23.00

2000 Estate Georis Merlot – Incredibly dark purple with an intense grape aroma. Big chew factor with full tannins. Rounder nose and an elegant spice structure. Huge, tremendous mouthfeel. $45.00

Talbott ~ 53 Pilot Road ~ Carmel Valley ~ CA ~ 93924 ~ 831-659-3500

Georis (and Corkscrew Cafe) ~ 55 Pilot Road ~ Carmel Valley ~ CA ~ 93924 ~ 831-659-1050

Chateau Julien is the first and undoubtedly the largest winery open to the public at the beginning of the Carmel Valley wine trail in Monterey. It was also the very first winery I had ever visited in Monterey. Inasmuch, I know practically nothing about the area’s various appellations or wine styles. Having a Napa-trained palate, I am confident it will require me visiting the area and conducting extensive tastings to learn and educate myself in Monterey styles.

Upon arriving to Chateau Julien, one must be made very aware of the grandeur due to the size of the grounds and buildings. I was interested in the fact that although they indicate they are family owned, their website provides no information about them which is sadly surprising. The tasting room is expansive and chock full of *things* to look at and purchase; t-shirts, cigars, books, decorative glasses, etc… The folks that pour are pleasant and receptive to questions. I liked that they didn’t have a formal bar that is the norm, but set up their pourings on a table in the center of the room. I guess better for you to peruse the merchandise…

2002 Pinot Grigio – Crisp and citrusy, a tad acidic but I imagine a light wine of this style would be fabulous on a hot, shummer afternoon, instead of a cold, January day. $18.00

2003 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay – A bit green around the edges — in the mouth, not the actual color. Definite tropical fruits and extensive oak. $12.00

2000 Barrel Aged Merlot – Again, even though this is an older Merlot, I found it green with youth. There were some lovely aromas of plum and toffee but the mouth paled a bit with vegetation. $12.00

1999 Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – A lighter red tone in color than I expencted for an estate Cab. Chewy with smoke and chocolate but I was looking for fruit. $22.00

NV Julien Port – Unfiltered. A huge chunk of cork (at least I was hoping it was cork!) floating in the glass. Cloudy and syrupy. $28.00

Cardinale is a large, imposing-looking structure which sits atop a hill on Highway 29 in the Oakville district. While they are located within an appellation that is considered ‘valley floor’ fruit, the vineyards from which the grapes are pulled from their wine include Keyes Vineyard on Howell Mountain and Veeder Peak Vineyard on Mt. Veeder.

Entering the establishment is awe-inspiring as the view of the building is in sight during the entire ascent. It is a stunning edifice which somehwat peers down upon the whole valley. The reception area and tasting room are expansive, inviting, and very well lit.

I especially admired the modern art-like sculpture opposite the tasting bar — core dirt samples of their various vineyards. It was not only representational and educational, but a unique and stylistic way to add minimal art to the room. Immediately adjacent to the tasting area is a private banquet room which can be used for small party tastings for formal dinner parties. Immediately beyond that room lies the balcony from which a stunning view of the vineyards and the buildings which make up the wine-making facilities.

Like many high-end wineries, Cardinale is one that does not over extend themselves with multitudes of varietals — cabernets are the primary focus but there was a lovely merlot available the day of my visit as well:

2001 Keyes Howell Mountain Merlot – Dark, inky purple in color. Rich chocolate and full herbal aromas. More chocolate and dark, elegant fruit with a thick, long finish. Opulent and jammy. This is a wine I would love to lay down for five to eight years.

2001 Cardinale Cabernet – A rather complicated line-up: 28% Mt. Veeder (Napa), 20% Oakville (Napa), 18% Howell Mountain (Napa), 14% Knights Valley (Sonoma), 13% Alexander Valley (Sonoma), and 7% Atlas Peek (Napa); 75% Cabernet and 25% Merlot. Again, a bit of herb on the nose with a hint of oak. Vanilla and dark berry in the middle palate with some chewy tannins. Quite nice.

Cardinale Estate ~ 7600 St. Helena Highway (Highway 29) ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-948-2643

Phelps lies just off the Silverado Trail, up a small, hidden road, and around a few winding, ascending roads. Upon approach, one is greeted with a large welcoming gate through which meanders an inviting road. Technically, it is considered  "Spring Valley" which is not a formal appellation, but lies near enough to St. Helena that I have categorized it there. Established in 1972, Joseph Phelps had Walter Schug at his side and it was in 1973 that Phelps created his first Pinot Noir. (Of note, Schug would later go on to be instrumental in the development of the Carneros appellation and establish his own Pinot-based winery at a later date). 

There are a number of impressive buildings which greet you from the walk way. You can hear the bottling line in the distance and it is obvious this is a working winery on a large scale. The impressions of grandeur and magnitude are greatly emphasized upon entering the tasting room. It is elegant but also very functional as one spies working wine books, flip charts, and a projection television for instruction as part of the complicated set of tastings they offer.

When you call Phelps for a tasting, they offer a variety of levels; from a simple sit-down tasting to a more complicated, blend-your-own varietal tasting. Having little need to blend my own, I opted for a simple sit-down, wanting to cut to the chase on what Phelps has to offer. However, before I offer my notes, it is fabulous to know that the staff is extremely accomodating in showing you around the facilities. From their location on the ledge of a valley, outside seats offer a stunning view. There is an adjacent meeting room (also for informal tastings if the rain is falling) which is completely surrounded by a ledge near the ceiling with thousands of bottles from all over the world, most dating back several decades. One can only glance at a single bottle and immediately be drawn back to what may it have contained at some point in its life.

Because of the history of this winery, there is a heritage of "firsts" that cannot be denied. From their website: "The 1974 Insignia — released in the spring of 1978 — was the first
Bordeaux-style blend produced in California under a proprietary label.
The release of the 1974 Syrah in 1977 sparked industry-wide interest in
a remarkable French varietal whose plantings in California had
disappeared and been virtually forgotten for over half a century. And
in 1990, after years of research, a whole new family of Rhone-style
wines was introduced under the Vin du Mistral label and included Syrah,
Viognier, Grenache Rosé, and a delicious red wine blend called Le
Mistral."

As you can see, a multitude of varietals to consider. In whites, a Viogner, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and a white Pastiche. The reds include Syrahs, Rhones, blends, a red Pastiche, Merlot, and (of course), Cabernets. Being in that Cabernet mood, I limited my tastings as such:

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon – Rich, opulent nose with dark berry and plum aromas. Initially a bit thin on the tongue but warms and fills a bit. Very dark purple color and tight, compressed tannins that I can only imagine will blossom over time.

2001 Insignia Cabernet – Earth on the nose (Stag’s Leap District!). Very opulent, purple jeweled tones. After a swirl, more vegetal aromas develop. Rich and full on the tongue with a long, smooth finish and even tannins. Full, consistent plummy extraction.

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon; Backus Vineyards (Oakville) – This bottle was opened in front of me and was obviously very, very tight. Extensive swirling produced some initial herbal aromas which gave way to a bit of spice. In the mouth, the tannins were already smooth and accessible as the finish gave way to brambles. I enjoyed all these wines immensely.

Joseph Phelps Vineyards ~
200 Taplin Road ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-2745

Silver Oak has had a well-established reputation for phenomenal Cabernet. Several years ago, I was fortunate to taste the 1974 Silver Oak Mountain Coast (I’ll go ahead and add those tasting notes at the bottom, just because I can). With that reputation, I was greatly looking forward to my visit to Silver Oak, but which one to go to? As you can see, I have categorized this listing under both Napa, Oakville (where one tasting room and location lies) and Sonoma, Alexander Valley, where a separate set of buildings exist. It was to the Oakville establishment that I arrived for my sojourn. The distinction is important as they produce Cabernets from both appellations.

Known for their logo Water Tower, a building which one will see scattered all over the valley, I was not too surprised to see the actual model sitting close by the working structures of the winery. The entrance of the tasting room is impressive and elegant. I especially like the stained glass window which lies above the large doorways. I didn’t get a full tour of the production facilities and can only attest to that which I witnessed from the outside.

Also, immediately to the left of the building is a great bronze sculpture of a man pushing a wheelbarrow. Contained within the wheelbarrow is a planting of fresh flowers and I imagine the foliage changes with the seasons. This is a relatively low-production winery, like Quintessa, where Cabernet is king and there is not much reason to bother with multiple varietals. So on to my tasting:

From 1974 Silver Oak Mountain Coast – Light ruby with bridge-red edges. Nose of hazelnuts, cherries, chocolate, and dill. Good body, long finish with return of red fruit character. A truly splendid wine.

And from today; 2000 Silver Oak Napa Cabernet – Surprisingly, from a blend of twelve different vineyards, 79% Cabernet, 11% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. While I got a little cassis and vanilla on the nose, the wine paled a bit in my mouth in an almost Pinot-like concentration. Slightly thin.

2000 Silver Oak Alexander Valley – I perceived quite a bit of brett on the nose. It was very oaky and a second whiff produced considerable minerals in the aroma. Again, much more pale in the mouth than I had expected this wine to be. I think it might actually ripen in the bottle and I wouldn’t mind trying one in eight or ten years.

There was also a Meyer NV Port. It was a tad cloudy and a bit overly sweet and syrupy for my tastes.

Silver Oak ~ 915 Oakville Crossroad ~ Oakville, CA 94562 ~ 800-273-8809