Ultimate California Wine Blog

Along the Silverado Trail, there sit a handful of wineries that are located up on the edge of the hillside – making entrance to the facilities up long, stately drive ways. Signorello is just such a vineyard and upon arrival, guests face an elegant, half vine-covered stone building.

A glance behind the building makes visible a handful of outdoor sculptures, a swimming pool, some patio furniture, and a built-in barbecue. The first thought is that some really great parties must be held here. When you wander into the building, immediately to your left you will see a kitchen. Yeah, REALLY good parties…

During my visit, the single worker manning the tasting station seemed a bit overwhelmed, but managed to keep track of everyone’s pourings. During a quiet moment, I managed to ask him about the kitchen. I was wrong about the parties. The location is classified as a private residence, hence the kitchen, swimming pool, etc. The tasting bar is merely an adjunct to Ray Signorello Jr.’s home – although he lives most of the time in Canada.

2003 Pinot Noir, Las Amigas Vineyard – These are from vineyards that were planted by Louis Martini in 1946. Warm, earthy tones with a candied cherry core. Medium-body mouth entry, the tone finishes a tad hot. $36.00

2002 Zinfandel, Luvisi Vineyard – This 100% Zinfandel has surprisingly light aromas of raspberry. The flavors are a bit heftier, but not a whole lot; some dark fruit and spice with an acidic entry. $34.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate – Green bell pepper and jalapeño aromas. Hot, spicy entry with some purple fruit under the heat showing an unbalanced finish of dryness. $39.00

2002 Syrah, Estate – Dark purple color giving off green, hospital aromas. Hot, hot, hot. $36.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate – 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot. Green olive and cherry with some dusty, woods twigs in the center with a dry, peppery finish. $48.00

Signorello Vineyards ~ 4500 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-255-5990

Loyal Hughes is a warm, charming, and gregarious gentleman. I had the tremendous pleasure of sitting down with him and his lovely wife, Linda, during a local harvest party at a winery not far from Loyal’s own Howell Mountain five-acre vineyard. Harvest parties are potluck affairs with most local winemakers bringing their own bottles to share. Lucky me, as Loyal’s wines have a whopping production of only 125 cases.

Some of you are doing the math; five acres should produce a whole lot more than 125 cases, shouldn’t it? Normally it would except that Hughes is one of those persnickety, finicky winery owners who will only put his name of the best quality product he can. That means only using grapes from one small lot, maybe an acre’s worth, of his five acres of grapes. The rest of it — quality fruit, I’m sure — gets sold off every year to waiting buyers, anxious to acquire premium Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.

Using a 100% new French oak, Loyal Hughes likes sharing his wine even though he doesn’t make very much. He is also deeply philosophical about his wine, believing in consistency and making a wine that is exceptionally food-friendly. With no plans to expand production quantities, this will be a wine you will have to hunt for — fortunately, he shared with me the three stores that are currently carrying Hughes Howell Mountain Cabernet; Dean & Deluca in the Napa valley, Wine Country in Southern California, and 34 North Wine Merchant in Healdsburg.  No website and no intention to ever have one, Hughes sells a bit off a mailing list and that’s about it…

2000 Hughes Cabernet Sauvignon – Spicy core of uber-rich, dark fruit; black cassis, black currant, and black plum. Rich and developed, the tannins are soft and easy without the tell-tale bite of a young Cab. Some rich earthy qualities in the mid-palate with a long, silky finish. $55.00

Hughes ~ 165 Olive Avenue ~ Angwin ~ CA ~ 94508 ~ 707-965-1907

Over a dozen years ago, when I was a wine neophyte, Ravenswood was one of the first wineries I ever visited. For me, the initial draw was the logo. I was heavily involved in the Renaissance Faire and the Celtic triskelion design of three black ravens twisted in on themselves was akin to many Irish-themed tattoos which was as prevalent in the 80s as tribal tattoos are now. Logo aside, there was also a draw to a winery producing a number of vineyard-specific Zinfandels with a nifty catch phrase, No Wimpy Wines. Zinfandel was the thrust of the business and a few other varietals were made. If memory serves, their production level was in the 20,000 to 30,000 case range…

A lot has changed for Ravenswood. Their case production now tops one million and the company is now owned by one of the largest international wine conglomerates on the planet, Constellation Brands. Fortunately, the brainchild and original winemaker behind Ravenswood, Joel Peterson, is still at the helm of the winemaking team.

The tasting room is practically exactly the same today as it was when I visited it 15 years ago. The staff is gregarious and helpful and while I believe that are a few misses in some of the overall line up of their production, there is still some fabulous wines to be had. There are a variety of tasting levels that will allow each visitor to explore their own personal interests.

2002 Icon – 87% Syrah, 9% Grenache, 4% Mourvedre. A really nice daily drinker for the price point. Juicy aroma of meat, black pepper, and dark purple fruit. Brambleberry flavors coat the mouth with a slightly sweet finish of spice. $20.00

2003 Big River Zinfandel, Alexander Valley – 1,500 cases made. Massive fruit bomb in a medium-bodied Zin. Ruby port aromas of concentrated purple fruit; plum, berries, and currants. Full, rich mouth entry that is smooth and balanced. $32.00

2002 Sangiacomo Merlot – 500 cases made. Noticeable green bell pepper and minerals in the nose. Bright cherry flavors that deepens to show a more herbal mid-palate. The finish paled from the entry. $27.50

2001 Petite Sirah, Sonoma – 400 cases made. Dark plummy bouquet with a layer of lighter blueberry tone. Rich entry expanding to show black pepper, cocoa, and a spicy dark plum finish.

Ravenswood ~
18701 Gehricke Road ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~ 707-933-2332

Madonna Estate is one of those that I have driven by dozens of time, located at the edge of the Napa and Sonoma county lines in the Carneros appellation. It was a pleasant surprise to learn of a history that dates back to the 1920s. I have to claim some surprise however — the story goes that Andrea "Andy" Bartolucci purchased his first vineyard in Oakville in 1922 where "he began crafting wines with his son Louis." This was during Prohibition so one can only assume he was making sacramental wine for the church. But when I asked about this of the winery staff, no one seemed to have a definitive answer.

In 1970 the original Madonna Winery in Oakville was sold and seven years later, the current facilities were constructed by Louis’ son, Andrea. They began organic, European-style dry farming techniques and became certified organic in 1990.

There are some lovely things about Madonna; a private picnic area and some more obscure wine offerings like Gewurztraminer, Riesling, and Dolcetto (none of which were offered to me). The biggest downside that I can see from a driver’s standpoint is that the winery seems to be a main stopping point for tour busses. During my visit, I was in between bus tours. It seems that the tours might be afforded some additional barrel tastes or personalized tour that is not available if you just arrive on your own. I would call and check on this — it may have simply been a happenstance of the timing of my visit.

2003 Estate Chardonnay, Carneros – Light and lemony which darkens to show lemon peel in the nose. Warm, creamy mouthfeel of mostly yellow fruit with a mineral finish. $24.50

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros – Thin, mineral, herbal aroma. The vegetal entry blossoms to show ripe raspberry, but fails to go anywhere after that. $28.50

2001 Merlot – Overwhelmingly green; nose and mouth is filled with vegetal green onion, green olive, and fresh, leafy tobacco. I think there was some berry flavors in there somewhere. $32.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon – Encouraging that they purchase their Cabernet grapes from a grower in the Rutherford appellation. I have yet to taste a Carneros Cabernet worthy of drinking. This Rutherford Cab showed some of the classic Rutherford dust characteristics but with an initial bouquet of green bell pepper and then some faint cherry. Warm spice embraced the tongue finishing with a dark cassis and woodsy twig flavor. $34.00

Madona Estate ~ 5400 Old Sonoma Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94559 ~ 866-RAGAZZE

When it comes to historical pedigree, there is a little bit of hair-splitting as to who is the oldest winery in America. It is often touted that Agoston Haraszthy is father of modern viticulture and in 1857 purchased a hunk of property in Sonoma to start Buena Vista Winery. Jacob Gundlach also bought some property in 1857 to open Gundlach Bundschu but apparently it was technically a few months after Agostin started his winery.

To make all this that much more confusing, the original property that Agoston purchased is now home to Bartholomew Park Winery (still the site of Agoston’s home) and the current Buena Vista site was a secondary wine-making facility that was constructed in the 1870s. The modern grounds are stunning and well worth the visit. Guided tours and picnic grounds are available, allowing visitors to sit amidst stately old trees.

The tasting room is a stately affair; two stories with the second floor full of historical displays showing some fabulous pictures of Haraszthy’s family, some stunning scenes of the early Chinese workforce. The room is beautifully bedecked in dark wood, hearkening to the stately gradeur of its legacy. The pouring staff are friendly and extremely helpful. While I had a bit of wait before being noticed, the nice man who assisted me insisted on delaying his break to make sure seamless service was proffered.

2004 Pinot Gris – Light and fruity, a sweet nose of honey suckle and white flowers. Clean entry with more sweetness than I usual care for. Crisp acidity comes after the sugar in the medium-bodied wine. $19.00

2003 Carneros Reserve Pinot Noir – Some initial green aromas; leaves or underripe fruit. Light body, red fruit and green olive display in the sharp entry. Young. $25.00

2003 Estate Carneros Pinot Noir, Clone 4 Pommard – Rich, terroir-driven wine. Supple nose shows a whisper of green olive with a core of red cherry. Soft mouth entry showing red fruit and floral qualities. $38.00

2002 Tres – 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese, 6% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petite Verdot, 2% Syrah. Aromas of green tobacco and herbs. Medium-bodied red fruit is fuller than the nose implies. Textured, but young. $29.00

2003 Syrah – Rich, smoky nose showing youth. Blackberry liqueur flavors in the initial taste. Thin on the intial entry which expands to a chewier middle, showing richer brambleberry on the finish. Medium bodied and even texture. $38.00

Buena Vista ~ 18000 Old Winery Road ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~ 800-926-1266