Ultimate California Wine Blog

Mumm Napa is one of the famous sparkling producers whose business has taken them from the chateaux of France to the vineyards of Napa. Having a century-and-a-half of experience producing Champagne in France, it should be no surprise that their New World offering is just as exceptional, but also more cutting edge, moving beyond the expected Blanc de Blanc and Blanc de Noir offerings.

The building is large and expansive as one enters through their retail gift area. Upon entry, I did hear an exiting conversation exclaim what a great store Mumm had ("this is one of the best wine stores I’ve been to"). Well, it was pretty and there were darn nice items to be had, but I tend to move beyond most retail rooms except when interior decoration or specific art is concerned. I just glanced at the pretties which I know I can’t afford.

Through the retail store is a service area which is unlike most tasting rooms in the wine country. Like several other sparkling producers, there is an added level of sophistication with full table-side service. So on a stunningly beautiful day, I headed out for a bit of bubbly. Being that sparkling wine is all Mumm makes (versus some of the other  producers who also produce still wine), there are a number of different options; a comparison of their recent premium DVX vintages, a Reserve-only tasting, a Pinot-based only tasting, their standard Mumm offerings, a category indicated as Nectar of the Gods which included their Demi Sac, and a non-alcoholic offering for designated drivers.

I opted for their strictly Pinot offering, having tasted their Blanc de Blanc and DVX offerings in the past. I will also give tremendous credit for a statement on their menu which I had never seen before at any other winery: "As a member of the Napa County Responsibility Coalition, there is a two-flute limit." Very impressive amount of responsibility considering the number of DUIs which occur in the valley. All that, and the Pinot-based sparklings were a lovely surprise:

NV Blanc de Noirs – 85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay. Salmon rose in color. Ripe raspberry and strawberry enter crisply into the mouth and quickly warms to a creamy mid-palate. A bright and fruity finish. $18

NV Sparkling Pinot – 100% Pinot Noir. Rich ruby color anticipates the plum and black cherry entry. After the effervescence subsides, a balanced, layered finish includes a hint of clove and cinnamon.

NV Cuvee M Red – 96% Pinot Noir, 4% Syrah. This was a huge surprise. Complex dark cranberry and blackberry enters with exciting jammy notes. A cherry mid-palate gives way to an intriguing spicy finish.

Mumm Napa ~ 8445 Silverado Trail ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-967-7700

I have long been intrigued by St. Supery because of an extremely intriguing sculpture which lies by their roadside sign; a 20 or 30 foot tall, red-painted industrial drill bit which rises phallicly into the air. I regret that it is not in the photograph, but seen from the road, it beckons the visitor and hints at whimsy that may lie within.

There is a dichotomy when approaching the buildings of St. Supery. The long driveway towards the parking lot puts one in direct path of white Victorian cottage. Is this the tasting room? Apparently not. For immediately in line with the parking area lies a sage green modern complex which can only be described as looking like an industrial compound where the tasting area and more delights await.

The tasting room lies just off a reception area and is quite the standard offering of tasting bar, retail bits, and much jocularity. A rousing group of folks keeps the energy high and occasionally, difficult to get a pour. That is an extremely minor complaint for the pouring staff range from youngsters not able to offer you a pour (but keeps the clean glasses well stocked) to octogenarians with a wealth of information and generosity.

While all this is well and good what I found utterly delightful lies upstairs… Lying the entire length of the building on the upper level is a self-guided tour which includes an extensive gallery space. Bumping into curator and Visitor Center Manager, Chris Parker, I learned that the exhibits revolve often which encourages me to visit often. The current exhibit included paintings, sculptures, crafts, and modern works from local artists. The artist in me started itching again…

2003 Sauvignon Blanc – Stunning pink grapefruit bouquet subsides to reveal aromas of peach and a hint of orange. Even mouth feel with a grassy mid-palate. No harsh acidity which the initial grapefruit suggested. Long, lush grapefruit finish. $18.00

2002 Virtu White Meritage – Flowery clean bouquet. Very bright and easy-drinking blend of 47% Sauvignon Blanc and 53% Semillion. Significant pear and peach tones with a creamy finish hinting at taffy. $25.00

2002 Chardonnay – 47% ML. Considerable, even fruit offering of peach and pear with a hint of orange blossom. Fruity entry into the mouth produces butterscotch and spice. $18.50

2001 Merlot – Cherry and earthy notes penetrate the nose. Spicy core in the mid-palate with a dry finish that includes dark berries and a touch of pepper. $24.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – Red bell pepper nose with layers of dark fruit underneath. Flavors include brambleberry and licorice with a heightened tannic finish. $28.00

2000 Elu Red Meritage – 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. A full 24 months in the barrel. Rich, dark cherry and floral bouquet. Mouth entry includes dark stone fruit and rich cassis. Extremely balanced and even with a even, supple finish. $50

2003 Moscato – 5.9 Residual Sugar. Tremendous citrus on the nose give way to a luxurious, exotic bouquet. Full, creamy ripe peaches counterbalance with slight effervescence. An opulent apricot finish makes this a fun summer wine. $20.00

St. Supery ~ 8440 St. Helena Highway ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-4507

Napa is becoming world famous for qualities wines, and Miljenko "Mike" Grgich (pronounced Grrr-gich) was instrumental in developing that fame. Back in 1976, there was a panel of French judges who shockingly chose some American wines during a blind tasting. Most have heard of this, but most remember the red wine that was chosen (Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars which will be reviewed later). Many do not remember that there was also a white wine, a 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, produced by a young winemaker, Mike Grgich.

With the famous win under his belt, Grgich catapulted by fame, launched his own brand, Grgich Hills. After years of fabulous reviews, the business has grown tremendously and now, in his 80s, has gone on to even more remarkable accomplishments beyond the Paris tasting. Hearkening back to his Croatian roots and following his gut feelings about his own heritage, had extensive studies made on Zinfandel grapes and was gratified when it was discovered that the history of the grape is the very same as Crljenik Kasteljanski, an old, historic varietal from his homeland.

The tasting room at Grgich is alive with activity and visitors, as it should. The winery is spearheading the new practice of biodynamic wine production, an extensive model of organic farming. The winery offers extensive educational series and is a great joy to visit – if just to experience the history.

2003 Fume Blanc, Estate Grown, Napa Valley – Fume Blanc is not a grape, but a style of aging done to Sauvignon Blanc. This had tremendous pink grapefruit aromas and tingled a bit on the tongue upon entry. Exciting, clean and crisp, this was a truly fun wine. $21

2002 Chardonnay, Napa Valley – One-half of this wine saw new French oak and it spent seven months on lees. Kiwi and tropical fruits dominated the bouquet and gave way to a bit of green apple. $35

2001 Chardonnay, Carneros Selection – 100% new French oak almost overwhelmed me in the initial smell. The oak subsided a bit to reveal more tropical fruits and butterscotch. The mouth feel was round and layered with citrus and honeysuckle and finished with a hint of toasted vanilla. $52

2001 Merlot, Napa Valley – Robust nose of Oriental spice which backs away to reveal cherry fruits. Sharp entry in mouth warms a bit to reveal more dark berries with a cedar finish. $38

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Immediate aroma of green bell pepper and cedar. Harsh, acidic mid-palate gives way to more moderate ripe black fruit. Tannic finish. $50

1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Green bell pepper bouquet up front reveals cocoa afterwards. Bright and tannic for its age. No price given.

1996 Estate Cabernet – Again, bell pepper immediately in the nose but subsides for more layered cocoa and spice qualities. Berry mid-palate and then blackberry. Long, even finish. Supple and elegant. $65

2001 Zinfandel, Napa Valley – Hmmmm… Bell pepper nose then cinnamon and clove. Fruit-filled entry into the mouth which finishes a tad dry and acidic. $25

2002 Violetta, Late Harvest, Napa Valley – Huge bouquet of honey and vanilla. A lovely contrast of acidity enters the mouth and produces layers and layers of apricot and butterscotch that don’t quit. $65

Grgich Hills Cellars ~ 1829 St. Helena Highway ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-2784

Rutherford Grove Winery & Vineyards is one of those wineries that had no gimmicky architecture to set it apart and a sign of script letters alluding to elegance. Other than that, I know nothing about them.

The building is vine-covered and the tasting room expansive and inviting. I was very intrigued by a stone wall fountain found immediately outside the tasting room door which seemingly runs around the entire building and culminates in front of the entrance.

I must admit I was less than impressed with the service as my pourer admitted up front that she was changing jobs soon to go to another winery and any attempt on my part to engage in conversation to learn about Rutherford Grove failed a bit. I did learn that they have 28 acres of vineyards in the area, but I discerned nothing about who the owners are or what their history might be in the valley.

It was only through their website that I learned they do showcase local artists in the tasting room and around a fireplace which made the tasting room more comfortable and homey. Wineries that are involved in the arts in some fashion are a big plus for me. There are many who simply support the arts by purchasing art and some that utilize curators for more formal exhibits. I don’t know how extensive the Rutherford Grove winery is involved with the arts, but the exhibit alone was encouraging for me.

2003 Sauvignon Blanc – Crisp, green apple nose. A very bright, crisp offering with a hint of melon in the mid-palate. Textured acidity – not warm. $14

2000 Sangiovese – Tremendous raspberry nose which was very bright with a hint dark orange peel and cinnamon. Mouth feel that is acidic and leathery with a thin, hot cinnamon finish. $30

2000 Merlot – Dark garnet color. Cedar notes dominate the nose but give way to some dark cherry. Hot and spicy on entry, a tannic finish makes me want to try this wine again in five years. $28

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – Complex dark fruit and spice bouquet just barely hide a hint of oak. Ultra-ripe fruit dominate the mouth entry and chocolate-covered cherries appear mid-palate. Long dry finish was tight and the affordable price indicates it will develop well over ten or fifteen years. Tight and tannic now will mellow nicely over time. $40

2001 Petit Sirah, St. Helena-Spring Creek Vineyards – Overly oak nose gives way to clove and cinnamon spice. Dark brambleberry powers in the mouth in lush and fat tones. A slightly metallic finish makes me want to age this wine as well — at least five years. $35

Rutherford Grove ~ 1673 Highway 29 ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-0544

Whitehall Lane Winery is another that has intrigued me for some time. In a land where architecture and buildings are built to entice the visitor, the owners and builders of wineries often go to the extreme in their excess, constructing mock-Victorians or mission replicas hearkening back to California’s heritage. Whitehall Lane always grabbed my eye partly due to its engaging mustard color, but also due to its Cubist tendancies in design.

Entering the winery, the mustard colors of the exterior immediately contrast with the warm, dark green of the interior walls and deep orange floors. Large, panel paintings continue the vibrancy of color and warmth. Behind the tasting bar, large glass windows add depth of view to the stainless steel tanks and wine-making area. Apparently an accident, but no less intriguing are the half-round windows which, on the exterior of the building, have made what looks like glasses in that the stains from rains have produced an ethereal ‘stem’ to the bowl of the wine glass.

2002 Chardonnay, Carneros – 33% ML. Exciting lemon zest aromas with a hint of dark fruit, almost fig-like. Warm entry and nicely balanced. A citrus finish did not overwhelm in acidity. $26

2002 Merlot, Napa Valley – 7% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Bouquet of subtle oak and dark fruit. Blackberry fills the mouth with a mid-palate of slightly acidic black plum. A tight, tannic finish indicates the wine should cellar a good eight to ten years to develop further. $26

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 12% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Dark vanilla and spice aromas give way to brambleberry notes. Concentrated berry and plum on entry with cocoa on the finish. Very balanced mid-palate with a slightly acidic, bright finish. $40

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 100% Cabernet made in 100% new French oak. Tremendous oak nose somewhat overwhelms. Additional swirling produces more layered aromas of cherry and red berry. Very warm, even entry. Layered flavors and a silky spice punctuate the the elegant finish. $160 (magnum only)

2004 Belmuscato, California Dessert Wine – 14.2% alcohol with 9% residual sugar. 60% Muscat Alexandria and 40% Orange Muscat. I’m a sucker for dessert wines and this was quite fun. Very crisp and exciting, not the sickly sweet, syrupy wine most orange muscat produce. Warm peach fills the mouth which counter with layers of spice, honey, and orange peel. Must get one for the summer! $22

Whitehall Lane ~ 1563 St. Helena Highway ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-9454