Ultimate California Wine Blog

I have seen the light and been shown the holy of holies — and it is food. I have long been a proponent of food and wine pairing to the extent that I can easily sell more wine when I start to describe the various cuisines that can be paired with this Merlot or that Cabernet Franc. There are a few wineries that do minimal pairings (a bite of cheese here, a handful of nuts there), but Mayo Family Winery has taken it to the wondrously full extreme; full pairings of seven of their wines in a simple sit-down setting, for the shockingly low price of $20.00.

I must add a caveat to this adventure; there is more than one Mayo Family Winery tasting room. The first one I went to is just off the Sonoma Highway in Glen Ellen before I was advised that the Reserve Tasting Room is another four miles up the road, in Kenwood, on the main bustling stretch of the same highway.

Situated on the bottom floor of a two-story building, the tasting room has a bar which runs the length of the room and I imagine that standing-room-only will start to fill up after the eighteen actual tabled seats get filled. Open only three weeks as of this writing, I predict that even finding a place to stand at the bar will soon be impossible…

Fortunately, I went on a quiet Sunday afternoon before the tourist season gets into full swing. A member of the Mayo family, Jen, greeted us and after we sat, explained that their in-house chef, Billy Oliver, has carefully paired each of the seven wines we were about to taste with a small morsel of food which will be served in stages. As she poured the first three wines, Oliver himself appeared very shortly after the glasses were filled with the first plate of three tastes. Jen explained that all the wines are single vineyard designate. The following are the wines plus their individual food pairings:

Goat Cheese and Summer Squash Roulade, paired with
2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Emma’s Vineyard, Napa Valley, ‘Unwooded’ – From the top of the plate, very thinly-mandolined, intensely fresh zucchini were wrapped around Laura Chenel chevre goat cheese. The goat cheese had obviously been whipped to a premium smoothness. The Sauvignon Blanc was very, clear pale; almost colorless. This is a SauvBlanc for food without the usual astringencies or overwhelming acidic tones, this easy-to-drink offering showed flavors of well-integrated dried herbs which expanded in the mouth when paired against the goat cheese. Subtle hints of melon and a whisper of citrus that was smooth and simple. $20.00

Lavender Pistachio-Crusted Prosciutto and Crenshaw Melon Lollipop, paired with
2003 Viognier, Sunny View Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Henry’s Cuvee’ –  This was a slightly aged Viognier as was evident from the rich, sunny yellow color of the wine. The sweet aroma of lemon meringue pie, with its perfect combination of citrus and cream, hinted that an intensely sugary and syrupy sensation was to follow. Conversely, the flavors were darker and richer than anticipated showing astonishing richness and complexity in its spikes of acidity with the long, creamy finish. The lollipop of melon and prosciutto enhanced the creaminess in the wine. The pistachio crust was an inspiration as the hint of toast in the nut provided a more complex layer to the wine. $30.00

Hazelnut-Arugula-Duck Liver Pâté with Strawberry Drizzle, paired with
2003 Pinot Noir, Piner Ranch Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Reserve – Holly’s Block’ – An almost odd, French-style Pinot, the slightly murky, brownish red color displayed a fruit bouquet that seemed already well-aged. The easy, smooth entry showed a balance of acids and tannins with some hints of burnt toast and Moroccan spices that faded to provide an easy complement to the pâté. Oliver’s tease of a strawberry drizzle easily emphasized the strawberry notes in the wine and the earthiness of the pâté seemed to enliven a creamy nutmeg in the back-palate. $45.00

The second flight began with a clearing of the glasses and another plate of three tastes:

Braised Boar Shoulder with Huckleberry and Pecan Jam, paired with
2002 Zinfandel, Ricci Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Reserve – Old Vines’ – A wine showing jammy, dark fruit aromas heightens with spice in the back of the nose. Intense, smooth mouth entry reveals a layered tease of both coffee and ripe dark plum. Again, a mere sample of some fruit incorporated into the boar’s meat brings forth the flavors of caramelized fruit. Hints of brett in the wine excite the gaminess of the meat. $40.00

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Coffee-Marinated Lamb Chop with Coriander-Pablano Chili Oil and Cilantro, paired with
2003 Merlot, Laurent Vineyard, Sonoma Valley, ‘Nellie’s Block’ – Overt and extremely intense aromas of jammy blackberry almost overwhelm, making me question if I wasn’t smelling a late harvest wine. Hints of oak and vanilla began to integrate as I took my first bite of lamb. The perfectly grilled offering was not overwhelmed with spicy oils, as I might have feared, but given just enough to enliven the senses and profoundly expand the blackberry qualities of the wine. Chef Oliver was obvious in his exuberance of this dish and it was easy to see why. The back-palate showed astonishing flavors of cream with herbs and more fruit in the finish. A masterful pairing. $35

Cured Beef Tenderloin with Mushroom Duxelle and Fingerling Potato, paired with
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa River Ranch, Napa Valley, ‘Julie’s Block’ – Dark, dried cranberries and currants coupled with dried herbs surprised me as the wine already presented itself as complex before tasting. This was the second wine of note that appeared to be more balanced and integrated at such an early age. The mushroom duxelle provided an earthy, erotic base that complemented the dark, earthy structure in the wine. The finish showed more elegant, dried herbs. $40.00

The final pairing is dessert, but beforehand, I specifically asked about their Syrah, which was not on the food pairing list, but offered to me for tasting…
2003 Pagel/Nord – Syrah, ‘Lylyann’s Block’ – Almost purple in color with concentrated dark spice and berry, another smooth, easy-to-drink, jammy wine showed hints of dried twigs and herbs with juniper, cassis, and cranberry tones. Long, velvety finish just doesn’t quit. $35.00

Grand Marnier Chocolate Truffle and Stilton Blue Cheese, paired with
2003 Zinfandel Port, Ricci Vineyard, Russian River Valley, ‘Old Vine’ – Jen let out a secret that astounded me and made me fall in love before this wine ever hit my lips; this is a Zinfandel that has been fortified with a brandy. But that is not what astounded me — it was that the brandy they having been using came from the now defunct RMS Alembic distillery which was a longtime favorite of mine before their demise. It seems the Mayo family are one of the few who were able to acquire several barrels of the alembic after RMS shut its doors and if I could, I would buy as much of this Zin Port as I could, knowing that their supply of it is limited as well. Dancing back and forth between the chocolate and Stilton, it was hard for me to determine which was the better pairing. Stilton is a classic favorite for pairing with any über-jammy port and this was no exception, showing layered qualities of creamy caramel and dark cocoa. Alternately, the chocolate truffle, with its hint of orange from the Grand Marnier, provided brighter, pecan-like toasty notes from the Zin. Another inspiration. $30.00/350ml

It was hard to contain the excitement and enjoyment being experienced as it truly WAS an enlightening to have exceptional food paired so well with great wines. Chef Oliver was able to chat with me during my tasting as he and Jen adequately managed the other guests by themselves — my prediction is that they will need to hire a lot more staff as others discover this amazing gem of a tasting room. I specifically asked Chef Oliver about the astonishingly low price and his response was they were not out to gouge people. There is no doubt they could easily double the price and still have it be considered a tremendous bargain. It will be great fun to go back as the seasons change as Chef Oliver also indicated he will be updating the menu often as different ingredients become available. Although I doubt I will wait that long. Call for reservations; open only Thursday through Monday, from 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

Mayo Family Winery Reserve Tasting Room ~ 9200 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5504

Sebastiani Vineyards and Winery is one of the old stalwarts of Sonoma, having been in business for just a hundred years. Their vineyards are even older. In 1904, Samuele Sebastiani purchased vineyards that had been planted by the Franciscans back in 1825. Samuele’s son, August, took over the winery in 1944 and increased the production exponentially, introducing America to "Nouveau" Gamay Beaujolais, and gaining a reputation as a skilled winemaker.

The current facilities lie just a few walking blocks away from picturesque downtown Sonoma Square. It is a lovely walk, by the way, as you past many historic buildings. The building facilities are large and daunting and the entrance to the tasting room is awe-inspiring with its tremendous bounty of booty to be purchased.

I will frequently bemoan the wine-related tschotchkes that are peddled in most commercial tasting centers, but I have to admit that the sheer volume AND quality of plates, decorative items, jewelry, housewares, and clothing at Sebastiani has yet to be surpassed. The other surprising factor (for me, at any rate), was the quality of the wine. Being a baby-boomer, there is a certain reputation that certain wines have by virtue of having been served "by the carafe" to my parents when I was growing up.

2004 Pinot Noir Blanc (Eye of the Swan) – A Pinot that sees skin contact for 24 hours. Rather nice balance of acid and a touch of sweetness. Bright entry blossoms in the mouth for a full, creamy finish that suggests banana. $13.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast – Massive fruit bomb. Somewhat harsh coffee, strawberry entry levels out to a smoother finish of vanilla. $15.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros – Oaky aromas slowly hint at a jammy cherry bouquet and a hint of petrol. Acidic mid-palate and a rather strident finish. $24.00

2001 Zinfandel, Sonoma County – Enticing smoky raspberry and lavender notes anticipates the mouth feel quite nicely. A fruit forward finish with a touch of spice. $15.00

2002 Domenici Zinfandel – Fruit bomb aromas of jammy raspberry which fade to produce a little candy shop spice. Velvety entry produces a balanced, even taste with a slight spiced punctuated finish. My pick of the tasting! $25.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County – Green bell pepper scents subsides to produce overtly blackberry tones. Herby mid-palate finishes in spicy qualities. $17.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, "Cherryblock" – Very fruit-forward, jammy aromas of dark fruit and a touch of oak. Opulent-style apparent on entry with a hot mid-palate that will subside with aging. A balanced, mineral finish didn’t disappoint. $75.00

2004 Sylvia Sebastiani’s Symphony – Symphony is a hybrid grape developed by Dr. Harold Olmo of UC Davis comprised of Alexandria Muscat and Grenache. This wine is grown in the Clarksburg Appellation in Yolo County. The wine is a light straw color and being over 3% residual sugar, is a tad sweet. Aromas and flavors of grapefruit and more subtle tropical fruits. $15.00

Along the Highway 12 corridor lies an amazing building. It is the home of Ledson winery and the building is an Addams Family-like black brick, Gothic castle. There is nothing like it in either Sonoma or Napa — or elsewhere that I can recall. Although it is easy to ascribe the Addams Family as potential inhabitants, it is truly an artistic marvel with a slate stile roof, turrets, spires, and arched entrance ways which contrast with the white window frames, offering a clean sense of stylistic design.

Arriving through the gates, a slow, meandering drive amongst the vines towards fountains and beautifully manicured laws, puts the visitor at awe with his or her surroundings. Much of what Gothic architecture is meant to do is inspire. Based out of 10th Century France, it was an aesthetic movement coming from an era where paganism had just been extinguished and the Catholic Church was establishing itself as the sole spiritual power in the land.

The outline of the architectural movement is derived from the Carolingian developments of Byzantine modifications of the early Christian basilica. In short, it included double western towers, a central tower over the crossing, and a threefold interior system of arcade, triforium, and clerestory. The architecture was mostly seen in churches of the era and was meant to instill fear and adoration in a higher being, namely God.

Why am I writing a short dissertation on Gothic architecture, might you ask? Well, when you arrive at Ledson, whether or not you understand the cultural significance and import, the bottom line is that the imposing structure automatically instills a level of adoration that has yet to be earned, be it a church or a winery. Upon entering the hallowed hallways of Ledson, one is immediately presented with tremendous vaulted ceilings, sweeping stairways, and an imposing chandelier. It is all stunningly beautiful.

Roaming around the establishment, I learned that there are no less than NINE different tasting bars. I was there on a rainy February afternoon and the place was swamped with customers with only four of the nine bars actually serving that day. Being able to finally muscle close enough to a bar for a taste, I was a tad discouraged when I inquired about tasting their Pinot. "Oh, that’s the worst wine we make!" I was told. Not being encouraged, I simply asked him to pour me the wines that were recommended. And while I know I tasted six or seven, I stopped taking notes after the third wine…

2001 Alexander Valley Sangiovese – Aromas of ethyl alcohol. Hot. Burned going down.

2001 Old Vine Zinfandel – Bouquet of petrol. A hint of fruit and spice. No finish.

2002 Bellisimo- A blend of Merlot and Cabernet. Concetrated black fruit nose which belied the gasoline taste.

To get out of Ledson, one must manage the maze of retail. It is rather clever that you can’t go out the way you came in, you have to exit a side entrance through a tremendously-stocked marketplace. It is truly an amazing store that includes cold cuts and cheeses, an espresso bar, a dessert fridge filled with handmade goodies, gifts, and of course, their wine…

Ledson ~ 7335 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12) ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95409 ~ 707-537-3810

Kunde Estate Winery and Vineyards is located along that stretch of roadway between downtown Sonoma and Santa Rosa, in the community of Kenwood. I realize now that I had a huge misconception about Kunde. I don’t know where I got it, but I have to admit I thought them more along the lines of your standard supermarket wine. I was pleasantly surprised. Also, from here on out, I will try and provide bottle prices on the wines I taste. Who knows, maybe I’ll go back and put them into the older tastings as well…

I didn’t know that Kunde have been land stewards going back five generations to 1904. Part of this legacy means that they take care of the land, protecting and nuturing it to assure its continued well-being and positive development. While not being certified organic, they do avoid the use of synthetic pesticides and utilize practices that promote the development of a healthy ecosystem.

The tasting room is expansive and comfortable. Huge, vaulted ceilings and a large, free-standing tasting bar helps the visitor to keep from having that claustrophobic, boxed-in feel which can happen with smaller establishments. The retail bits are there, but are not intrusive and tastefully displayed. The pouring staff are helpful and informed (well, almost too informed, but I think that was just one guy trying to show off some arcane insider knowledge).  And the wine was quite decent!

2003 Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc – I loved that this wine was made with no oak, but purely stainless steel. Citrus aromas and a touch of mint with a very nicely balanced, full pineapple filling the taste. $16.00

2002 Reserve Chardonnay – Well, at a 100% malo, this is not a chardonnay that is typically a style I appreciate. However, I was pleasantly surprised at the extremely elegant sensation of honey in the nose and on the tongue. A tad of toasted oak on the finish which was very long and silky. $35.00

2003 Viognier – Tremendous green apple and and honeysuckle bouquet. Exotic floral notes and jasmine filled the mouth and a bite of pepper provided an exciting ending. I would have bought this one, had I remember my wallet! $23.00

2002 Gewurztraminer – At 2002, I think this wine may be a bit beyond its peak. The guy pouring for us was trying to find the winemaker’s notes as I was very curious as to the residual sugar level. He seemed to think it was less than 1%, but I think it was closer to 2% or 3%. I did get some elegant floral notes but there was a metallic finish which may have also been due to the wine being a bit too cold. $13.00

2001 Sangiovese – Strong candy store smell, which I like in a San! Very full-bodied and even tannins produced a peppery, spicy finish. $24.00

2001 Barbera – Another wine with that candy store smell. I wonder if I should explain that — it is an aroma which used to be prevalent in penny candy stores of the 1960s and early 1970s. Incomparable, exotic aroma for a kid. Still there in the olfactory memory. This wine and the previous San had it. Well, tasting this Barbera gave some dried fruit and floral notes and a huge, spicy finish of clove and summac. $24.00

2000 Founder’s Selection Claret – 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. Obvious Franc bouquet of vegetation and herbs. The palate provides a bit of berry fruit but more mint and the finish is all green bell pepper. $25.00

2001 Century Vines Zinfandel – Made form 122 year-old Zinfandel vines. Spicy nose and massive roasted plum entry. Wanes a bit to a tinny finish. $28.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Drummond Vineyard – Surprisingly bricky color, due to its age. Berry bouquets and a decent structure despite some acidic tannins. The color of the wine would suggest it is older than it is and I think it would probably age quite well. Some elegance there. $70.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon – 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Merlot. Pronounced bell pepper nose and what I think was bright, enticing fruit which had been dulled by oxydation due to being opened the day before. $21.00

Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards ~ 10155 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5501

Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards ~ 10155 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5501

Bartholomew Park Winery, often referred to simply as "BartPark," has quite a bit of history going for it. Now there are some wineries worth going to for the historical ambience and sheer aura of age. Fortunately, BartPark has the aura, the history, and good wine going for it.

Truly, this establishment can be considered the birthplace of the California wine industry and being a huge history buff, I appreciated the museum housed within the building. Along with the museum displays, there is a great deal of information on the local viticultural heritage and a wall of pictures devoted to Sonoma growers. It is one of the few places in either valley that celebrate more than the owners. Throughout the museum, there are displays which honor the vineyard worker and the growers wall truly immortalizes the farmers who provide the grapes.

The father of the California wine industry was Count Agoston Harasazthy who planted grapes on this property as early as the 1830s. The buildings on the property were Agoston’s personal mansion and the estate was named Buena Vista. (To clarify a point of confusion, "Buena Vista Winery," which will be reviewed at a later time, was part of the original estate and contained the wine-making facilities. The buildings that now house Bartholomew Park were Haraszthy’s ancestral home.)

As you continue through the museum, you learn that after it was a winery, the estate was acquired by a women, Kate Johnson, at the turn of the last century who shared the property with 200 Agoura cats. Most interestingly, under the auspices of the State of California, it became the State Farm for Delinquent Women and housed "women of disrepute." Much of the layout of the building as a sort of hospital is still visible.

Behind the tasting bar, where the wine is stored, is an elevator lift to the second floor, a sort of hospital ward, the skeleton of which is still visible. Right as you enter the tasting room, immediately on your right, is a large wooden door with an elaborate lock and key. Behind that door is a hidden stairwell which leads to what was the morgue. If you are lucky enough to visit the winery on a day when one of the pouring staff are available to show you around (as it is not part of the regular tour), there are a number of amazing stories of ghosts…

It seems back when the building was the home for fallen women, one particular women named Madeleine kept trying to escape. I was told she would sneak out at night, be found by troopers the next day, and was brought back.   This apparently happened a number of times until the occasion when she disappeared and it was thought that Madeleine finally made her great escape.

However, years later when the building was being retrofitted for earthquake compliance, a skeleton was discovered – Madeleine’s skeleton. Many people who have worked there over the years have stories of things they have heard or experienced.

When I have brought friends to visit the winery, they get spooked out by the hallway and framework of the individual rooms upstairs. I get the willies downstairs, looking at the door which leads to the morgue, which is now used as a breakroom and wine storage (gosh, it IS the perfect temperature!)

Now it is back to being a winery, albeit one with lots of backbone and history. Taken over by the Bundschu family in 1994, their winemaker, Linda Trotter, is doing a great job in turning out some very respectable wines:

2003 Sauvignon Blanc, San Lucas Vineyard – From Monterey vineyards, 495 cases produced on a modified lyre trellis. Bouquet of rich, tropical fruit which doesn’t disappoint upon entry where kiwi and pineapple appear on the tongue. A rich, creamy melon continues after the swallow and finishes with a light tang. Very nice and not overly acidic.

2001 Estate Chardonnay – 328 cases. Full overt tangerine nose which, after a bit of swirling, gave way to aromas of an elegant, Oriental spice. I detected a rich mid-palate of star anise. Well structured and not overly oaked or buttered with only 30% malo.

2001 Estate Pinot – Valentine, garnet red color, clear and bright. Aromas of cherry and toffee anticipate rich tastes of dark raspberry and spice. A very long, complex finish.

2001 Apparition – A blend wine of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Merlot. 650 cases produced. Allspice, blackberry, and cedar bouquet. A decent mouthfeel but hot and a little tannic gives way to a metallic finish.

2000 Desnudos Cabernet – 354 cases. Mineral and constrained nose. Rich, complex mid-palate but a harsh, acidic finish.

2002 Estate Zinfandel – 200 cases. Orange edge in color. Elegant, caramel nose which is soft and easy to smell. The first taste produces a structured taste with a soft edge. Lovely, candy and cream mint Andes sensation. A very easy wine to drink.

Bartholomew Park ~ 1000 Vineyard Lane ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~ 707-935-9511