Ultimate California Wine Blog

There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle-ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man’s fears and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area we call the ‘Twilight Zone.’ Those were the words that Rod Serling used to open what could arguably be called the most influential television show of the 1950s. It is also the feeling that one experiences when spending time at Rancho de las Flores (no website link available) owned by Ralph Wermuth.

Located just off the Silverado Trail, this is a winery that could very easily be driven past if you are not paying very close attention. The small house and the building that acts as the tasting room lie behind such overgrown shrubbery that the Twilight Zone analogy is not far from the truth. One wonders if there is anything behind the massive foliage. The building is extremely non-descript and a bit worn. As we approached, a gentleman followed behind us and we had the pleasure of meeting proprietor, Ralph Wermuth.

The Twilight Zone feeling continued as Ralph is definitely a character. Indicating I was in the industry, he started asking if we had as much problem with the "other countries’ trade barriers" as he did. He is obviously concerned about those "other countries." I implied that we did not really export to Europe yet but were just beginning to work on that. "No, not Europe," he emphasized. "The other countries like Massachusetts and those damn trade barriers!" Distinctly odd… The tasting room? Well, the cobwebs were evident, the glasses were dirty, and the wine was, well… interesting, to say the least. But spending a few minutes with Ralph is worth a visit.

White Wine – I’m serious. That is what his label reads. A viscous, dark yellow, it is mostly Colombard grapes with a splash of Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of a biting apple cider with harsh minerals. The entry is sweet with a tang in the middle. Mostly grassy flavors and a harsh finish. $12.00

Amigo Viejo – 100% Gamay. Biting sweet nose. Chewy blackberry that showed oxidization. Strident to the point of painful with a biting, metallic finish. $15.00

Rancho de las Flores Cellars ~ 3942 Silverado Trail ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 707-942-5924

Milat is another small family-owned winery which lies on the main stretch of Highway 29 in Napa. One of the immediate draws is that it is one of the few tasting rooms that stays open late, until 6:00 p.m. What is little known about Milat is that the family has been growing and supplying grapes to winemakers from their 22-acre ranch since 1949.

Although they only produce under 4,000 cases of wine, they do so under two labels; the Milat label and another called Pine Station. The Pine Station label are those grapes that are not worthy of the single-varietal blending and make up a few of the blends produced under the Pine Station moniker.

The tasting room is small and relatively unadorned. Sometimes there is something nice about a no-nonsense approach to what a tasting room is for; one goes to taste wine and the need for t-shirts and decorations and jewelry is secondary. The bloke pouring wine the day I was there was a member of the extended family – a nephew or something, but was extremely engaging and gregarious. A great time was had by all.

2004 Milat Chenin Blanc – A blend of 73% Chenin Blanc, 25% Chardonnay, and 2% unknown. With 1.5% residual sugar, the clear bright offering showed a hint of sweet white melon. The slightly effervescent mouth entry was generally pleasant and would be fine on a hot afternoon. $18.00

2004 Pine Station Rosé – A very odd blend of Merlot, Zinfandel, and Chardonnay, this rosé is made with Epernay yeast which gives it a slightly fizzy mouthfeel. The aromas were of fresh, bright currant and cranberry. Simple and easy without too much sugar, but little outstanding flavor and no finish. $9.00

2002 Pine Station Red – 44% Cabernet, 29% Merlot, and 27% Zinfandel. Dominate wood aromas of oak, cedar, and pine, then some exotic Moroccan spice presents itself in the back of the nose. A tad to woody for my tastes. Flavors include black fruit, cumin, coriander, and a distinctly sage finish. Medium bodied. $18.00

2002 Zinfandel – Intense ripe red cherry layered with light spice. Fresh and smooth, a medium-bodied zinfandel with some clove on the end. $23.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – Initial aroma of green bell pepper then dark herbs. After a swirl or two, black plum and oak present themselves. A tad harsh on the mouth entry. The dark fruit seems a bit thin and pale on the end. $36.00

2001 Zivior, Port-style – 95% Zinfandel and 5% Towiga Vaciona. An odd port in that it seemed a cross between a ruby and tawny, trying to determine what it wanted to be. the were dusty floral tones with a hint of nuts. The mouth entry was viscous and sweet with some depth, but not enough to entice me. $25.00/375ml

Milat ~ 1091 St. Helena Highway South ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-0168

This is a truly exciting post for me. To start, it is Wine Blog Wednesday where Brother Lenn has asked us to Drink Local. The assignment this month is to go and find the winery closest to your home. To my knowledge, I am the only blogger who actually lives in Napa so I have a distinct advantage over say, someone living in Utah… But in a way it was actually a bit difficult. My initial thoughts were that I was either in close proximity to either Laird or Trefethen. I initially posted on Lenn’s site that at least I didn’t live next to Screaming Eagle, which would have been decidedly expensive! I started perusing GoogleMaps and asked winemaker Karen Culler about a suspicious plot of vineyards that I had never noticed before and it is truly fabulous to have access to great people who can help answer questions…

A phone call or two later and some time spent on GoogleMaps and I see that a mile-and-a-half (as the crow flies) or 2.8 driving miles away from my humble abode lies a winery about which I knew nothing, Robert Biale Vineyards. So here I get to kill two birds with one stone — a brand new entry in my ongoing blog as well as a really cool installment to WBW! Serendipity was definitely at play here, as the Biale tasting room has been open a whopping two weeks!

The facilities are brand spanking new, but these guys are hardly the new kids on the block. Robert Biale’s family started growing Zinfandel grapes in Napa in the 1920s and now specializes in local historic vineyards. A third generation Napan, Robert has a reliable and dedicated crew (if Jayme, whom I met during my visit, is any indication).

Along with producing vineyard-specific zinfandels (some from 100+ year-old vines), with Al Perry heading up winemaking, additional very cool varietals now carry the Biale moniker; Petite Sirah, Syrah, Barbera, and Sangiovese. Al works closely with the growers from whence Biale’s grapes are grown and feels passionately about these grapes which are distinctly Californian.

As indicated, Jayme was the host for the day in the newly-built tasting room. It is an appointment-only establishment, but one worth seeking out, if only to hear the story of the black chicken… But go and taste and buy these wines. They are astonishing in their character and distinct disposition; worthy of aging as their depth shows, but astonishing young.

2003 Grande Zinfandel – This was the second vintage from the Rossi Vineyards produced under the Biale name. The wine is slighty cloudy dark garnet in color and at first demonstrates rich blackberry and boysonberry liqueur aromas, immediately giving way to aromas of freshly-cracked black pepper, sweet and aromatic. The mouth entry is smooth and continues the blackberry tones, but expands to reveal hints of herbs and rich, complex finish. $40.00

2002 Monte Rosso, Sonoma Valley Zinfandel – Sweet cherry nose that is distinctly berry in structure. Developed with deep floral qualities and a long, spicy finish thatis not biting or hot. The Monte Rosso is specifically 110-year old vines and the wine certainly shows its pedigree. $46.00

2002 Thomann Station Petite Sirah – From famous vineyards in St. Helena near Sutter Home, this wine is inky black red and produces a bouquet of elegant licorice, blackberry liqueur, and faint hint of ground coffee. The wine coats the tongue in a supple and velvety fashion showing some brighter acid on the front with a tease of coffee on the finish. $50.00

2002 Gaudi Carli Barbera – Very enticing dark garnet red color. Floral notes that are rustic, spicy, and elegant with a touch of candied cinnamon and a whisper of sweet anise. The entry is at first smooth, silky, and touch sweet. There is more spice on the nose than on the tongue. The acids brighten on the mid-palate and develops into a long, structured finish. $35.00

Robert Biale Vineyards ~ 4038 Big Ranch Road ~ Napa ~ CA 94558 ~ 707-257-7555

Vineyard 29 is a relative new-comer on the block. While their first vintage was officially produced in 1992, it was the completion of their astonishing gravity-method wine-making facility which was finished in 2001 that put them on the map. Okay, maybe having Heidi Barrett-Peterson as their winemaker from 1992 until 1998 didn’t hurt…

Vineyard 29 is thus named because of its physical address: 2929 Highway 29. It was established in 1989 by Theresa Norton and Tom Paine who had to utilize the services of custom crush facility; i.e., they had the vineyards but not the wine making equipment or building. In early 2000, Theresa and Tom wanted to retire and found in Chuck and Anne McMinn a couple with enough passion to take over and expand the label.

And expand they did. After designing the most technologically-advanced facility feasible, they also began acquiring additional vineyards beyond the initial Grace Family Vineyards three acres purchased. Just a few miles north of where the winery was under construction, the Aida vineyards became available. Known for astounding Zinfandel and Petite Sirah grapes, the Aida vineyard and the Grace Family vineyards became the soul of the new Vineyard 29.

Besides being the most stunning gravity-method winery I’ve ever seen, another factor that adds to Vineyard 29’s allure is an ecological one; the winery is operated with three natural gas turbines. This is one of the many steps required to becoming a Green winery and apparently the applications are already in place for that status.

The 13,000 feet of caves are a continuation of the marvel of engineering. It is only when you walk in that motion sensors begin to illuminate the cavern. It was noticeably cooler as I could sense air actually being moved, I inquired about air conditioning. No; condenser fans pull in cool air from the nearby Sauvignon Blanc vineyards and provide a natural coolant to the interior.

The very rear of the cave portal is a storage facility of current and library wines. I was extremely fortunate to be able to provide the documentation for this visit, and while I  had the honor to meet Chuck and Ann during my tour, the facilities are not open to the public, except to those already on Vineyard 29’s acquisition list. After tasting the wines, this is a list I would like to be on:

2001 Aida Zinfandel – Slightly cloudy with concentrated dark brick tones on the edges. Aromas of dusty, dark blackberry and black cassis. It hits the tongue with spicy black licorice and immediately evens out with an opulent spicy liqueur tone of dark berry. Intense, lingering finish. $60.00

2001 Aida Red Wine – 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26 % Merlot. Brick red-edged color with dark purple core. Intense, concentrated plum and dark berry notes play with molasses on the nose. Moroccan spice components reveal cardamom and Nag Champa. Wild black strawberries enter the mouth and explode with elegant spice. Complex and elegant, a heightened acidity brightens the mid-palate and toys a bit, before smoothing out to a long, luxurious finish. $75.00

2001 Vineyard 29 – 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. I brought a few friends along and the initial response was "this is what angels drink in heaven…"  Teasing aromas of fig, blueberry, cinnamon, amber, and lignum aloes shows a dark floral tone with integrated spice. The mouth entry is as dark and spicy as it portends but surprises with a sweetening in the mid-palate. The licorice finish continues to entice and seems to never end. $125.

Vineyard 29 ~ 2929 Highway 29 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-9292

Freemark Abbey is another winery that holds special memories for me. During those early years of driving up to Napa from Southern California, this was one of the standard stops for their much-loved dessert wine and I bought a beloved grape-festooned necklace that I still pull out on special occasions — but I get ahead of myself.

I have categorized the Abbey under two appellations; St. Helena, because their physical location is within the St. Helena appellation, lying just north of the town in almost the last stretch of public wineries before the town of Calistoga, and Rutherford, for they are renown for their single-vineyard Rutherford Dust Cabernet Sauvignon. The other tremendously special aspect of Freemark Abbey is historical — it was the first winery in California to be built and operated by a woman, Josephine Marlin Tychson (then known as Tychson Cellars).

Contrary to popular belief, the "Abbey" was never a religious order.  it is often misconstrued as such because of the nearby CIA, which was a Franciscan monastery. No, "Abbey" was the nickname Albert Ahern, one of the three business who purchased the estate in 1939. Today, the historic building area is under some renovation. Adjacent to the offices and tasting room is a lovely, newly-landscaped oak-shaded courtyard which is available to rent for private functions. It is also well worth a stroll through, just to admire its beauty.

The tasting room is large and warmly decorated with a seating area by a large fireplace. This form of hospitality is unusual as many tasting rooms purposefully keep guests from staying; seats promote lengthy stays and voluminous drinking. By having such a prominent display of welcome shows trust and comfort with guests that is refreshing. Oh yeah, and the folks working behind the bar are pretty nice, too.

2003 Napa Valley Viognier – Sweet tangerine and honeysuckle on the nose. Diving crisp entry that expands to show white stone fruit with a bright mid-palate and a finish that is partly tangy and partly creamy. $25.00

2003 Napa Valley Chardonnay – Rich, full-bodied aromas of elegant apple and pear with a hint of caramel. Vibrant mouthfeel that invokes both green apple and citrus. Shockingly rich considering this wine saw no malo. Lovely. $19.00

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet – 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Expansive aromas of black cherry, nutmeg, and clove. Fruit-forward entry showing black cassis. A bit bright, showing youth, but depth that anticipates age-ability. $35.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sycamore Vineyards – From the Bell Oaks
Rutherford area. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet
Franc. Slightly murky, dark red in color. Hints of green bell pepper
subside to show dark cocoa and hints of earth. Chocolate covered cherry
and vanilla fill the mouth that shows balance and a clean, distinct
finish. $55.00

2002 Napa Valley Syrah – 82% Syrah, 14% Petite Sirah, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot. Clear, garnet color. Dark plum and black pepper bouquet. Smooth, medium-bodied wine that shows well-integrated dark fruit and layered vanilla. Long, medium spiced finish shows an easy-drinking, not too over-the-top Syrah. $28.00

2000 Edelwein Gold – This is the dessert wine I am so rapturous about. It is one of the few naturally-produced Botrytis-affected wines produced in California. It is a late-harvest Riesling that does not get made every year. In fact, Freemark Abbey has only made this wine ten times in its history. The wine is a stunning golden yellow color which produces a bouquet of sweet honeysuckle with a tease towards ripe citrus. The mouth entry is silky that shows peach and honey and a lingering finish that is sweet but not saccharine

Freemark Abbey ~ Highway 29 at Lodi Lane ~ P.O. Box 410 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 800-963-9698