Ultimate California Wine Blog

I was a tad embarrassed when I met Katerena Arger and I hadn’t heard of her family’s winery. I thought I at least knew of all the wineries based in the Napa Valley, but I hadn’t heard of Arger-Martucci. Just a block or so behind Dean & Deluca lies the small cluster of buildings which used to be the home of Villa Helena winery. Purchased in 2000 by the families Arger and Martucci, a new winery was born.

Dr. Kosta M. Arger (a cardiologist by training) began learning winemaking in the 1970s under Joseph Heitz. But never formally trained, he is the winemaker for this two-family dream. And a family-endeavor it certainly is. Kosta’s daughter, Katarena, acts as the general manager for the tasting room, runs the hospitality events, and attends the public functions, representing the wines. Katarena’s mother, Julie, also imports olives oils and Balsamic vinegars. The Martucci side, Rich Martucci handles the financial paperwork side with son Richard, Jr. managing the winery and Rich Sr’s wife, Carole, helping out behind scenes. All the grapes are grown on four different estate-owned vineyards.

Completely unassuming, the tasting room is nothing more than a family kitchen, where Katarena will pour the selection, but only Thursday through Monday. She might pull out some cheese samples from an adjacent refrigerator and sit down and join you in a glass, easily exuberant about the great wines being made by a family of friends. As the warm summer months draw near and more learn about the excellent offerings, Katerena will start hosting the tastings immediately outside the kitchen; next to the swimming pool.

2002 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Chardonnay – Golden straw color. Buttery kiwi tones tease the nose and a bright, tangy mouth entry fills out and blossoms with creamy honeyed pear finish. $22.00

2004 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Viognier – A barrel-taste of the as-yet-to-be-bottled wine. Delightful honeysuckle aromas with a subtle and elegant creamy mouth feel. Price unavailable.

2001 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Pinot Noir – Bright cherry bouquet with hints of dark earthiness. The cherry continues into the flavor which is soft and balanced. $30.00

2003 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Syrah – Beautiful, dark inky in color. Tantalizes with intensely perfumey aromas that back away to produce a hoisin-like sweetness. Opulent and balanced with concentrated rich black cherry and wild berry flavors that produces a hint of sweetness on the back-palate. Smooth and stunning. $25.00

2001 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon – From vineyards on Atlas Peak at 1,500 elevation, the slightest hint of green bell pepper on the nose immediately subsides to produce dark, husky tones of tobacco and black cherry which expands to produce smooth tannins. Long, layered, and balanced. $50.00

2002 Odyssey – A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Merlot, at a surprising 13.9% alcohol. Candy-shop aromas tease with layers of clove and cinnamon. The mouth entry produces brambleberry, blue- and blackberry tones. Even and smooth the finish is long and silky. Forgot to get the price on this one.

2004 Arger-Martucci Vineyards Dulcinea – A true, natural botrytis-produced wine, but only when the conditions are perfect. As the story goes, “in November of 2002, Jeff Sowells, owner of Topaz Winery, offered a small amount of botrytised Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon to Arger-Martucci and with his help, produced this blend of 2/3 SauvBlanc to 1/3 botrytised Semillon.” Amazing how a little mold on some grapes can produce such intensely flavors. In this offering, honey-laden apricots and peaches which is long and smooth and perfectly elegant. $45.00/375ml.

Arger-Martucci ~ 1456 Inglewood Avenue ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 04574 ~ 707-963-4334

I have had a long-standing appreciation for Markham, but only partly because of their wines. They are another in the small family of wineries that heavily support the arts. In their case, the visitor’s center, which is opulently filled with home decorations, jewelry, fixtures, and one-of-a-kind kitchenware, also doubles as an art gallery.

There is a small-ish gallery space downstairs, by the tasting bar, but a more expansive gallery space throughout the hallways of their corporate offices upstairs. Guests are invited to take their glasses as they wander around and view the exhibits which change every four months (reasons to go back often). Along with the revolving exhibits, there are a number of permanent sculptures throughout the grounds.

Along with the art which thrills me, Markham also produces pretty decent juice. Mostly known for their Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignons, of late I have been limiting my tastes to the lesser-known varietals. Markham offers three levels of tasting when you visit; Premium Wines for $5.00 (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and and Cabernet Sauvignon), Hard to Fine Wines for $8.00 (Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Franc, and Petite Sirah), and a Library Reserve Tasting for $15.00 (a revolving library of two different vintage Merlot [one a Reserve] and two vintage Cabernet Sauvignon [one a Reserve]). My suggestion? Bring two friends, get all three tastings, get to taste all the winery has to offer! But if you do, don’t forget to spit a little…

2003 Sauvignon Blanc – Clear and light in color, grassy apple and kiwi aromas adequately anticipate the bright and engaging crispness. Balanced, acidity on the mineral finish. $14.00

2003 Chardonnay – Creamy, vanilla nose but approached the mouth a bit too bright and crisp which I believe is nothing other than having been stuck in the ice too long. Too cold and it masked all the flavors, but I couldn’t stick around long enough to let it warm up. $18.25

2002 Pinot Noir – Bright ruby red, almost fluorescent color. Effusive with bright, ripe raspberry, hinting towards cinnamon. Balanced entry that was even and round, with a slightly tight finish. $24.00

2003 Pinot Noir – Red, garnet color that produced a tad more earthy, raspberry aroma, layered with clove and anise. Dark aromas masked the acidic mid-palate and tight, dry finish. $24.00

2000 Petite Sirah – Incredibly spicy licorice and anise bouquet that absolutely exploded with aromas. Dark, spicy fruit on the tantalizing entry that was slightly dry in the middle. Even, expected mineral finish that kept going. $28.75

Markham Vineyards ~ 2812 St. Helena Highway North ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5292

Hall Vineyards has been receiving a lot of press lately. Katheryn and Craig Hall only acquired the historical facilities in 2003 and, wanting to erect a new building, caused quite a controversy in town with the announcement that noted architect Frank Gehry was to be the designer. Seems the local gentry were concerned that a Gehry building would bring too much traffic to an already-congested area. I personally hope they prevail, as I have been a huge fan of Gehry’s work for some time.

I hope that even if a new edifice is erected that the current visitor’s center which greets new guests remains. Grey and looking ever so frazzled from wear and history, accents of red punctuate the building; an awning, the name, and a sculpture which sits out front contrast with the dull, worn wood of the building. It makes it all so elegant. Also scattered throughout the grounds are pieces from an astonishing art collection which I thought was worth the visit even before tasting their wines.

I have categorized this winery as both in the St. Helena appellation, where their buildings lie, as well as the Sonoma, Alexander Valley appellation, where a number of their vineyards which produce much of their wine exist. I think if I were to get very technical, the Halls have five different vineyard holdings including the Hall Estate vineyards in St. Helena, the Sacrashe Vineyards above Rutherford, the T Bar T Vineyards in Alexander Valley, the Napa River Ranch Vineyards just off the Silverado Trail still considered the Napa Valley Appellation, and the Hardester Ranch Vineyards in Pope Valley.

2003 Sauvignon Blanc, T Bar T Vineyard, Alexander Valley – As this wine sees a bit of oak, there is not the usual astringency of a hundred-percent stainless-produced SauvBlanc. This produced an immediate warm, creamy sensation on the nose which didn’t anticipate the citrus, grass entry into the mouth. This bright initial taste fills out to a tropical mid-palate and is highlighted at the end with a hint of orange peel on the finish. $22.00

2002 Hall Merlot, Napa Valley – Very rich, heady, jammy bouquet which is punctuated with spice at the end. The jammy fruit enters the mouth and slowly reveals a spicy, slightly green finish with an underlying dark fruit underneath. $28.00

2002 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 6% Merlot in a wine that has seen 22 months of French oak. Initial aroma of green bell pepper and jalapeno anticipates the pepper entry which quickly gives way to dark, blackberry fruit. Rich entry with a dry mid-palate produces a decent finish. $35.00

2002 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon, T Bar T Vineyard, Alexander Valley – 20% Merlot. Surprising candied berry nose just barely hides a hint of mint underneath. Plum, cherry, and brambleberry couple with a little smoke and tantalizes with a candy-like finish. Mild and balanced on initial taste produces a lovely spiked spicy finish. $38.00

2002 Katheryn Hall Cabernet Sauvignon, Sacrashe Vineyards, Rutherford - 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Intensely fruit-forward, spicy cassis, blackberry do not disappoint a full, blossomy mouthfeel which expands voluptuously. Eucalyptus finish demonstrates great acidity. $65.00

Hall ~ 401 St. Helena Highway South ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 866-667-HALL (4255)

Cathy Corison is one of the shining stars in Napa. With the recent rise of interest in women winemakers, it is no surprise that Cathy’s own winery, Corison, is one to keep an eye on. I also just recently blogged Long Meadow Ranch which she consults for. I have long been curious about her own winery as the logo is unlike most in the valley. Somewhat primitive and primal, I was told it is the symbol for rain. Also, more hidden, is the symbol of the sprouting seed which can be found on the cork. The tasting room is a simple board set atop a couple of barrels within the barn, which contains the wine-making facilities and offices. This is a stop for those looking for great wine. There is no glitz or glamor – and there doesn’t need to be.

2001 Corazon Gewurztraminer – From Mendocino vineyards, less than .2% residual sugar makes this an exciting California German. Little or no color, tremendous kiwi and tropical fruit aromas profound the bright entry which smooths out in a long, elegant finish. $20.00

2000 Helios Cabernet Sauvignon – Extremely bright blueberry aromas with a hint of green bell pepper behind it (just barely a whiff). Cocoa on the entry and a tad acidic on the mid-palate, there is a finish of black pepper. $28.00

2000 Corison Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Medium fruit forward with similar blueberry, chocolate, and pepper found in the Helios, however a tad brighter with a longer finish. $48.00

2001 Corison Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Dark cherry and dark cocoa aromas with a hint of tobacco. Very tight, even palate midway with a bright, enticing finish. $58.00

2000 Corison "Kronos Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon – Extremely rich nose with complex spice and dark berry bouquet. Great entry which is soft and supple. A whisper of eucalyptus on the finish punctuates. $75.00

Corison ~ 987 St. Helena Highway ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-0826

Merryvale is one of the biggies on Highway 29. The large stone building is covered with vine and sits just across the street from restaurant Tra Vigne, burger stand Taylor’s Refresher, and is the last winery before you drive over the bridge into the hamlet of St. Helena. The building has been there a long time, laying claim to the fame of being the first winery built after the the repeal of Prohibition.

It is famous also for its oft-photographed dinner parties in their barrel room. The photograph in question has been used in more Napa PR documents that I can count. Not that that is a bad thing, but I’ve never been invited to one and am anxiously waiting! Before I moved to Napa, Merryvale was one of the wineries I was brought to as a tourist. Convenient, attractive, and tourist-friendly, it is a great stop on the main drag as they have an offering 23 different wines.

They also have the distinction of being one of the few wine-tasting establishments open late; 6:30 p.m. (where most have to close up at 4:00 or 5:00 p.m.) There is something to be said for tasting late in the day. The tasting room is quite large and the pouring staff extremely gregarious and friendly. The tasting menus are various and if you just indicate a style or a varietal that you are interested in, it will be poured for you.

– Standard grassy and tropical fruit aromas don’t prepare for the rich, creamy entry in the mouth. Pineapple and citrus dominates and I was pleasantly pleased with the balance and ripe flavors. $22

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros – Earth and raspberry tones in the bouquet which was very effusive and rich. Almond and toasty nuts flavors in the dark berry fruit provided a very long finish. $35

2000  Reserve Merlot, Napa Valley – 92% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Slightly orange, bricky colors on the edge. Aromas of very fresh green bell pepper. Dark fruit flavors underneath very tight tannins. $29

2000 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot. Initial nose of bramble berry gave way to oak and black pepper. Hot and tight on entry belied its age. Lots of swirling forced open a little more dark fruit which produced an incredibly long finish. $32

2001 Syrah, Napa Valley – I had more fun smelling this wine! First I got Hoisin sauce. Then some beefy-like salami. Then brighter fruit behind a little fennel. The entry was tannic and hotter than I would have liked. It stayed hot but finished long which made me believe it would cellar very nicely. $35

1999 Profile, Napa Valley – 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Hot jalapeno aromas slowly moved aside to show some cedar and oak, but it was mostly a vegetal nose. Tight entry with acidic finish. Would give it another ten years at least. $90

2000 Profile, Napa Valley – 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. OAK overwhelmed the nose. All wood, no fruit. Hot and tight. Hot, hot, hot. $70

2001 Profile, Napa Valley – 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Still wood on the nose, but more dark fruit behind it. Less tight than the previous two, but would still like to taste it in ten years or so. $90

Merryvale ~ 1000 Main Street ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-7777