Ultimate California Wine Blog

Gundlach Bundschu has always prided itself on being the oldest family-owned winery in North America. However, the Bundschu family had to shut down their winery during Prohibition so the next in line for claim to fame goes to Wente, who is the oldest family-owned continually operating winery, dating back to 1883. Right in the middle of Livermore!

There are actually two separate places to visit and taste Wente wines in Livermore. I stumbled on to the one on Tesla, but only later learned there was a "visitor center" on Arroyo Road. From the looks of their website, the Arroyo Road location also provides wine tastings but might be the prettier of the two, as it is available for wedding rentals. There are also signs around for a concert series so I imagine the other location has significantly bigger facilities. This was not an eyesore by any means, however.

The Tesla Road set of buildings includes a tasting room that is actually two small octagonal buildings; one being a bar-in-the-round and the other the gift shop. The tasting area is surrounded by stone walls on which artworks are displayed, with exhibits changing in rotation. The folks pouring are pleasant and informative, but choose wisely. This is one of those companies that almost produce too much to taste in one sitting. I cherry-picked my tastings, thus:

NV Reserve Brut, Arroyo Seco and Monterey – 48% Pinot Noir and 52% Pinot Blanc. Hint of yeast and citrus that produced both a clean, dry entry. Easy, but unexceptional. $14.95

2003 Riesling, Vineyard Selection, 78% Arroyo Seco, 22% Monterey – At 2.20% residual sugar, this wine has been tempered with 24% Gewurztraminer. Initial overt aroma of orange blossom which anticipated a sweetness that did not reveal itself in the mouth entry, to my delight. With as much residual sugar as this wine had, this wine had the potential to be a sugar bomb. Instead, while it was definitely sweet, the hint of spiciness and integrated melon, peach, and honeysuckle flavors were quite pleasant. $8.95

2003 The Nth Degree Chardonnay – Clear, bright lemony yellow color. Butter and lemon predominate with a layer of lemon peel and kiwi. Surprisingly sweet entry in the mouth that touches on sweet apple, dairy butter, and a hint of toast. $35.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Reliz Creek Reserve, Arroyo Seco, Monterey – Great fruity nose of raspberry, dark cherry, and a hint of smoky earth. Unfortunately, the bright engaging nose was lost on the mouth entry which was harsh and metallic with a strident finish. $17.95

2002 Merlot, Crane Ridge Reserve – 79% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Barbera. Liqueur-like  aromas of dark, elegant plum, exotic wood, and heady spice. Clean, smooth mouth entry with a balanced finish. $17.95

2002 Syrah, Vineyard Selection – 75% Syrah, 19% Barbera, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Stunning pomegranate aromas just barely concealing dark cherry and hints of earth. Port-like entry that was a bit sweet but blossomed to show integration of roasted coffee and black strawberries. $12.95

2002 Small-Lot Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah – 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46% Syrah. Dark, clear purple color with bouquet of dark brambleberry and subtle tones of spice. Very smooth entry that was a tad hot in the mid-palate. I’m confident the heat will subside with aging. Vanilla finish is rich and clean. $45.00

Wente Vineyards Tasting Room ~ 5565 Tesla Road ~ Livermore ~ CA ~ 94550 ~ 925-456-2305
Wente Vineyards Visitor’s Center ~ 5050 Arroyo Road ~ Livermore ~ CA ~ 94550 ~ 925-456-2405

Rios-Lovell Estate Winery marks the beginning of my investigation of the Livermore Appellation. This was one of those enigma appellations which I knew very little. I know there are these pockets of profuse wine-making throughout California, but I had no idea that the Livermore valley dated back to the 1880s. While I barely scratched the surface of the neighborhood, I am anxious to go back when the thermometer is somewhere south of three digits…

Max Rios and Katie Lovell were married when they established the winery. Divorced in 2004, it is Katie who is the winemaker and driving force behind the winery. Apparently Max still lives on the property and works as a cabinet maker while Katie commutes from the Saratoga area a few days a week.

There is an interesting ante-chamber before the tasting room that is amazingly painted with a number of murals, giving a bistro-like, old-world feel. The facilities are known in the area for hosting weddings and the grounds include a separate building for receptions as well as a garden arbor.

2002 Reserve Estate Chardonnay – Somewhat standard offering, classic Asian pear and tropical fruit aromas. Creamy, butterscotch entry that has an easy mouthfeel. $16.00

2003 Reserve Estate Chardonnay – Warm, fruity nose showing similar tropical tones as the first, but with a tad more depth. Cream and butter. $16.00

2001 Estate Petite Sirah – A dark wine with a core of purple, blueberry is predominant in the nose, giving way to show some black cherry. Effusively dark berry aromas with hints of vanilla. Terrific mouthfeel that is elegant and opulent. Dry in the mid-palate with a lingering, cherry finish. $22.00

2003 Estate Sangiovese – A medium-bodied offering showing bright strawberry bouquet with hints of tin. Red cherry predominates the mouth with moderate acidity that sadly turns a bit harsh on the end. $19.00

2000 Ramiro’s Red – A blend of 50% Barbera, 35% Sangiovese, 10% Petite Sirah, and 5% Zinfandel. Great jammy nose of dark berry and bright black cherry. Heightened acidity shows on the entry with more cherry tones. Mint shows in the middle and end for a fun, easy wine. $19.00

2002 Reserve Port – An odd port offering blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese fortified with brandy. Sadly painful aromas of petrol and pine tar. A sickly sweet entry shows strawberry with a sugary finish. $38.00

Rios-Lovell Estate Winery ~ 6500 Tesla Road ~ Livermore~ CA ~ 94550 ~ 925-443-0434

Earlier this year, I documented a Beringer Blass side-product, TwoTone Farms. I was approached to comment on yet another Beringer product, White Lie Early Season Chardonnay. The public relations kit that accompanied the product is chock-full of incredibly pretty documents explaining that this product is a “premium wine tailor-made for women, [and] by women.” The all-female team is Tracey Mason (Director of Global Innocation), Jane Robichaud (Winemaker), and Bettina Ferrando (New Product Development Manager). There is kitchy comments on the types of lies that women say (“I never got the message,” “I was stuck in traffic,” “It’s not you, it’s me”) and other offensive phrases.

The occasion to blog the Livermore valley over the weekend was also occasion to meet up with my good friends, April and Walt. Walt suggested grilling up some salmon after the day’s blogging and knowing the 100+ degree heat of the area, a low-alcohol, low-calorie white wine might work perfectly with Walt’s salmon.  What I did not anticipate was the great joy to be had in sharing a new-concept wine with scientists…

Part of the product’s selling points is that it is lower in alcohol, 9.8%, versus a typical 13.5% chardonnay and that the calorie content is 97 calories per five fluid ounces versus a normal 129 calorie glass. How can this be developed? Well, Beringer Blass has trademarked a technique where the grapes picked earlier in the season, which have a lower sugar content (brix), are fermented all the way to dryness before blending. The assertion is that the resulting wine “tastes crisp and fruity but is also low in sugar, naturally making it low in alcohol and calories.” Yes, it is true the wine is crisp, but almost too much so.

The crisp entry is harsh with tart acidity. There are faint aromas of lemon peel, but not much bouquet beyond that. The mouth entry is almost painfully strident. What this lead to in our discussion over dinner was Walt’s brilliant question; Would the wine taste better if it were, in fact, a 13% alcohol wine? Here is where the scientists took off and I sat back and marvelled…

April is a chemist and Walt a programmer/analyst. Over a flurry of discussion that was more than Greek to me, the two of them debated the amount of neutral alcohol that would have to be added to the existing wine to make a 13% alcoholic wine. A book was pulled from the shelf and calculations were configured; 7 grams of Vodka would be added to 98 grams of the White Lie to produce a wine at 13%. I thought it a brilliant experiment.

The final result? We tasted both wines a second time — the original 9.8% and the newly-created 13% version. The new wine was a tad more palatable. It definitely had more body, but was still flabby and lacking depth or balance. Much the ensuing discussion revolved around why White Lie was created. It has been established that while men purchase wine to collect, women make up the bulk of the wine-buying market for immediately consumption. But I know of no women that would drink this wine. I do marvel at Beringer Blass’s gumption in breaking new ground and the regard I have for the Two Tone product is an example. But in the case of the White Lie, perhaps there is poetic justice when being asked what I thought and a “little white lie” comes to mind…

With sincerest thanks to April and Walt for a charming and illuminating evening, delightful company, and a fabulous dinner! Hope you don’t mind the pics….

Greg Graziano is a very, very busy man. Having inherited vineyards that were planted by his grandfather in 1918, he has successfully established FOUR different labels under which he produces an astounding 30 to 40 different wines (I truly never could get an exact number, so this is a guess).

The Saint Gregory label is the first one that was established. Under this label are wines of the Burgundian ilk. Monte Volpe means "fox mountain" and this brand is for the development of Tuscan red varietals and whites from Friuli. Enotria is Greek for "land of wine" and was developed to promote Piemonte varietals. Lastly, under the Graziano label, are the classic Mendocino varietals; Zinfandels and Petite Sirahs.

I was extremely fortunate that it was a quiet morning during my visit and the lovely lady behind the counter was patient with me as I tried through all the labels and all the wines. I was doubly more fortunate that instead of working through one label at a time, and possibly forcing me to jump to-and-from whites and reds, she laid them out in the order in which they should be tasted. My suggestion is to really only pick a few and not attempt to go through the twenty+ that I did…

Enotria Arneis, Mendocino; Uvaggio Isabella – Enotria is Greek for "Land of Many Grapes" and Arneis is a very unusual varietal with a Piedmont heritage. Pale yellow color with decidedly delightful green apple and pear aromas. Very crisp entry that brightens into a tang in the mid-palate. Long finish with pale herbs and bright fruit. $12.00

Monte Volpe Tocai Friulan, Mendocino – Grapefruit, ripe lemon, and sweet floral tones in the nose. Not overwhelming, but well-integrated. While there was a sweetness in the bouquet, the entry was an engaging spicy crispness. There was a hint of sweetness in the center, but a long, supple finish balances out. $10.00

2002 Monte Volpe Primo Bianco, Mendocino – A blend of Arneis, Tocai, Pinot Grigio, Moscato, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay grapes. Clean lemon peel and faint tropical notes in the nose. Clean and easy with a brightness of peach and a slightly creamy finish. $10.00

Graziano Rose of Carignane – Intensely delightful aroma of sweet red apples and strawberries. Great acidity and long, structured finish. Too much fun! $12.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Potter Valley – Brownish tinge around a bricky orange/red tone. Warm strawberry and earthy dark fruit aromas. Surprisingly sweet tones in its core with a balanced, even finish that is engaging. $16.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Mendocino – Slightly oxidized with a hint of hospital smell. Thin red fruit with a metallic finish. $16.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Romani Vineyards – A more bretty example of Pinot with dusty, dried twigs in front of mature strawberry flavors. $22.00

2001 Monte Volpe Sangiovese, Mendocino – Decidedly cinnamon tones along with the bright, acidic fruit. Easy and relatively simply. $16.00 Note: This wine was tasted blind along side the following — I was only told that one was bio-dynamic and one was not. Seemed I preferred the bio-dynamic Sangiovese:

2001 Monte Volpe Sangiovese, Bio-Dynamic, Fox Creek Vineyard – Rustic and spicy in structure with an engaging hint of a spicy, candied apple. Tangy entry with some dried floral notes just hidden, but more engaging.

2001 Monte Volpe Primo Rosso – A blend of Barbera, Zinfandel, and Dolcetto. Dark, dusty spice with dried floral qualities. Sweet-like mouth entry of bing cherry and blackberry with a rich, dark spicy mid-palate and dark, floral finish. No price available.

2000 Enotria Dolcetto, Mendocino - "Zinfandel in Merlot’s clothing" was the description given to us by our pourer. Also known as "the little sweet one" because it is so easy to grow. A tease of spice behind the berry fruit. Balance acidity and very easy, fruity wine. Some hints of earth and vanilla on the finish. $14.00

2001 Enotria Barbera – Rustic with dark, dusty spice. Very engaging upon entry with dark cherry and dried lavender and heather in the core. 14.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Potter Valley, Kazmet Vineyards – Dusty cocoa tones with a hint of eucalyptus. Heightened tannic entry of jammy fruit. A tad metallic in the mid-palate with a dry, peppery finish. $24.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Robert Parker Ranch – Spicy dark fruit with ample brambleberry. Softer entry than the aromas portend. Spicy mid-palate and a juicy, full-bodied finish. $22.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Mendocino – Surprisingly sweet nose with a sherry/port-like sweet entry. Liqueur-sweet berry that would make one think it was a late-harvest! $24.00

2004 Enotria Muscato – Engaging aromas of sweet green herbs, ripe pear, and fresh green apple. More green apple on the entry and mid-palate that is a bit sweeter than anticipated. A punctuated, acidic tang on the finish would make it a great cheese wine for dessert, served well-chilled. 12.00

Graziano Family of Wines ~ 13251 S. Highway 101, Ste. 3 ~ Hopland ~ CA ~ 95449 ~ 707-744-8466

When driving into Mendocino county, if you stay on Highway 101, Hopland is the first town that shows signs of civilization. Ukiah is the next town on the map, a little less than fifteen miles north of Hopland and while a single-lane, vineyard-flanked narrow passage, it is has a few roadside wineries worth visiting which sit in between the two hamlets. Jepson, on the west side of the road, is worthy of such a visit.

The large, industrial building is set far off the edge of the road, at the end of a dusty, unpaved road. The road belies the number of guests that are apparently expected as a surprisingly large number of parking spots await you — but those could be for the wine-making facilities moreso than for a simple tasting room.

Not badgering the poor bloke behind the counter with too many historical questions, a quick perusal through their website provides some of the more intriguing bits of information about Jepson; they practice sustainable agriculture which is a tremendous plus for me, and they are one of the few wineries I have yet stumbled upon that along with a large array of still wine, also produces a sparkling and a brandy.

2002 Sauvignon Musque – An unusual grape to be sure — a clone of Sauvignon Blanc not often seen as a 100% varietal, their limited 300 case production is fashionably light and easy with integrated aromas of lemon and grapefruit with white melon showing on the mouth entry with expands to a creamy finish. $13.00

2001 Viognier – Very engaging offering with white stone fruit and honey in the nose. A very smooth entry provides honeysuckle, pineapple, and a hint of spice in the mid-palate. A crisp, tangy finish proves quite delightful.

2003 Chateau d’Alicia – With 1.4% residual sugar, I would anticipate this 100% French Colombard to be sweeter than it was. Very pale straw tone, distinct green apple in aromas and flavors. Clean. Very, very clean feeling. $7.00

2001 Carignane – It is always a joy to find wineries bottling this unexpected Rhone varietal as a 100% offering. It was a tad sad then, that I found this wine to be oxidized, quite probably from having been open for more than a day. I could detect some light berry tones just revealing some dried floral qualities. Would love to try a fresh bottle. $14.00

2001 Syrah – Surprisingly dusty in aromas and flavors, this syrah shows earthy sensibilities in its initial aromas. Spicy entry gives way to some smokiness in the mid-palate with dusty cocoa near the end. $20.00

2003 Petite Sirah – Intense combinations of sweet soy sauce and barbecue meat intertwines in its aromas. The flavors open up to show smokiness, integrated behind the richness with a brambleberry finish. $24.00

Viognier Mistel – A non-vintage dessert wine made with 20% brandy, this golden straw essence enters the mouth with bright fruit of pears and honey but shows a finish that is both elegant but redolent with hazelnuts and cream. $18.00

Zinfandel Mistel – Another sweet wine that is orangey in color had a bit of oxidized aromas, with creamy creme brulee flavors and it slight bite on the finish. $18.00

Jepson Winery ~ 10400 South Highway 101 ~ Ukiah ~ CA ~ 95482 ~ 800-516-7342