Ultimate California Wine Blog

I was very surprised when I drove up to Clos Pegase. I was surprised that I had not made a more concerted effort to seek it out, considering the astonishing artwork and beauty of facilities.

Jan and Mitsuko Shrem’s story of their relative humble beginnings is very impressive – and what they subsequently built here in the Napa valley is even more impressive. Jan traveled to Japan in the mid-1950s on vacation. Falling in love with the country and a woman, Mitsuko, he stayed and began a modest publishing in Japan. That modest publishing house grew into a small fortune, enabling Jan to travel to Bordeaux in 1980 to study winemaking.

Within three years, he had purchased fifty acres of prime Calistoga real estate and an invocation of a Bacchic spirit. The facilities were built in the mid-1980s with the intent of housing the impressive art collection that the Shrems had amassed. With a reverent  bow to the Greek temples, the edifice hearkens to the bleached white ancient temples but with a minimal cornice, negative space insets alluding to columns a single pillar in front which invites the visitor to a courtyard of additional pillars, and a color scheme slightly resembling orange and strawberry sherbet.

The grounds are filled with the Shrem’s collection of art. As you enter the facilities, a number of large sculptures greet the visit — from the whimsical giant thumb, set alongside working vineyards, to kinetic and a more classically Greek-oriented Herm. Also available within the grounds are picnic tables. While cheese and other picnic items are available within the tasting room for purchase, it is nice to know there is a spot amongst some engaging artwork where visitors can bring their own picnics.

The tasting room itself is also bedecked with a variety of modern and historical works. Behind the tasting bar is a tremendous scene of a Sybaritic bacchanal but several lighting units are decidedly modern with loops of folded glass cascading down from the ceiling. The room is large and inviting and also contains a two-story glass entryway, adequately showing off the impressive barrels in which wine is aging.

2004 Mitsuko’s Vineyard Chardonnay- Golden yellow in color, dark pineapple dominates the nose. Rich fig and floral qualities coat the mouth in a creamy offering. The finish shows some mineral qualities but the ending is long and luscious. $21.00

2003 Mitsuko’s Vineyard Pegase Circle Reserve Chardonnay – From Carneros, this lighter, lemony colored wine immediately displays lemon meringue qualities in the nose, subsiding to some depth of kiwi and faint pineapple. Soft entry blossoms with yellow floral tones and bright fruit. $24.50

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, the rest being a proprietary blend of Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec. Mostly green nose of bell pepper and chili pepper. Tight, chewy entry was a tad hot. Needs time. $32.50

2002 Pegaso – 44% Petite Sirah, 44% Zinfandel, and 12% Syrah. Opulent bouquet of blueberry, bacon, and dark spiced berry. Tight, hot mouth entry slightly disappoints considering the amazing nose. Perhaps it just needs more time as well. Unknown price.

2000 Graveyard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon – From Carneros. Erratic aromas of spice, green bell pepper, and minerals. Very bright, tight entry showing youth and green chili peppers. Apparently it is considered a good selling point as the pourer was encouraging in his description of the inclusion of pepper flavors. Very, very odd. $60.00

To their credit, I have heard very good things about their wine. I believe the weather may have been far too hot on the day of my visit to give the wine its justice and plan on going back when the ambient temperature is more comfortable.

Clos Pegase ~ 1060 Dunaweal Lane ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 800-366-8583

Cuvaison is a well-known name around the Napa valley but I didn’t realize the winery had such longevity; Thomas Cotrell and Thomas Parkhill purchased 27 acres  on the Silverado Trail, about half way between St. Helena and Calistoga. The past 35 years have seen a number of different captains the Cuvaison ship, with additional property acquired on Mt. Veeder and a substantial hunk of land in Carneros.

Now, with substantial business growth, one of Cuvaison’s major claims to fame is that 20% of their 60,000 cases is sold internationally. This makes them often more well known outside the United States than within it. Also, of these 60,000 some-odd cases, over 65% of that is purely Chardonnay. Occasionally there are arguments that too much Cabernet Sauvignon is being made, but I believe many forget that it is really Chardonnay that leads the pack in grape growth.

The Cuvaison guest center is surprisingly small considering the volume production of the winery. It is small, yet charming. The interior of the building houses the tasting room and sales area. The staff working the room are pleasant and helpful. Another advantage of note is that this is one of the many wineries north of Deer Park Road on the Trail that has a picnic area. I continue to be astonished at the number of wineries that allow this located in this vicinity.

2004 Sauvignon Blanc – Green grass and lemon peel on the nose. Classically tangy entry with a full mouth of grapefruit. Spicy finish. $19.00

2003 Chardonnay, Carneros – 75% malo – Luscious stone fruit with well-integrated oak. Creamy sense of meringue on the entry, deepening to flavors of nutmeg. Tangy, lime finish. $35.00

2004 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir – Very, very pale pink color. Surprisingly creamy nose with a tease of berry. Tangy entry but no discernible flavors. $16.00

2003 Estate Pinot – Dripping wet with cherry, raspberry, and strawberry up front surrounding a core of vanilla oak. Dense and chewy with a harsh entry despite the great nose. Mineral finish thins and surprises from the big start. $48.00

2002 Syrah – Some moldy funk behind dark berry and black fruit. White pepper whispers in the back of the nostrils. Hot, tight entry softens a bit, showing surprisingly red, bright fruit. $28.00

2003 Espiritu Port – An odd combination of Petite Sirah and Zinfandel, fortified with brandy. Petrol nose – behind the alcohol, mostly green olive aromas. Biting entry burns a bit. $35.00/375 ml

Cuvaison ~ 4550 Silverado Trail ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 707-942-6266

Château St. Jean ranks among the highest for quality Chardonnay. Just ask anyone who likes Chardonnay… Okay, I’m not a huge Chardonnay fan but I found many things to like at Château St. Jean. Perhaps it was the atmosphere or the congeniality. Perhaps it was because there is a sense of history or because I was weak and actually bought something from the gift shop. Whatever it was, I have a fine memory of my time at Château St. Jean.

Wine aside, the estate property is absolutely stunning. There are gardens that you have to walk through to get to the visitor’s center which offer many exceptional vantage points for photography or for simply relaxing by one of the several ponds. The “Château” itself was built by the Goff family in the 1920s and has been lovingly restored and is where some of the offices exist as well as the Reserve Room tasting area.

Apparently if you are part of the Reserve Club, you can have access to a private terraced seating area for individual, table-side service. This picture was taken through a window of the Château, as though I was a Peeping Tom, peering at two lucky recipients of a private tasting. I’ll be they also got to taste the wines I would have preferred to taste; Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Malbec, Viogner, and other Reserves…

The actual public tasting room is tremendously large and amply filled with a variety of products, much of the usual from clothing to wine-related gadgets. But I have to admit a confession. In my hundred-and-fifty-odd winery visits, this was the first time I actually bought something in a gift shop. In a corner, away from most of the expensive bounty, was a line of tin-and-enamelware kitchen gadgets. I purchased what looked like a pots de crème set, complete with rack (I say it looked like a pots de crème set, except that it wasn’t porcelain). It was $10.50 for the set and while not politically correct for real pots de crème, it will suit me just fine. Oh yeah, and I enjoyed the wine too.

2002 Robert Young Vineyard Chardonnay – Classic lemon and buttery aromas. Oily mouthfeel upon entry showing dark papaya and mango. Rich, with a hint of lemon peel on the finish. $35.00

2003 Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir – Dusty, exotic aromas of incense – akin to sandalwood with a core of red fruit. Red fruit dominates the mouth entry and brightens with acidity on the mid-palate. Smoky finish. $19.00

2002 California Merlot – Black plum and brambleberry display in the initial whiff but subside to demonstrate eucalyptus on the end. Chewy, tight mouth entry that is full bodied and thick. Tad harsh on finish.  $15.00

Château St. Jean ~ 8555 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12) ~ Kenwood ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-4134

I have known of Rombauer’s reputation for a while. They are one of the stalwart well-loved Chardonnays that has become so popular, it makes up over 60% of their 60,000-case production. That is quite substantial for any winery and if you are going to stake your reputation on one wine, it had best be good. My friend, Lisa, was driving and she was the one who told me about their Chardonnay, but it was the salesman at the counter who confirmed its popularity with the statistics.

The buildings at Rombauer are incredibly well-hidden amongst the trees, atop a small hill which lies just west off the Silverado Trail. In fact, their road-side sign is a bit small and it is quite easy to whiz right past them on the trail. As you drive up the uphill, windy road, a patriotic cow is visible — seemingly exiting from the heavy brush on its way to the tasting room.

Greg Graham has been the winemaker at Rombauer for over twenty years – longevity of this sort is almost unheard of in the Napa Valley. The tasting room is small a bedecked with a wide variety of aeronautic paraphernalia and family remembrances. One other note – this is one of those rare, north of St. Helena wineries with picnic tables for guests who want to stay and relax for a while.

I had not put two-and-two together before my visit, but it was Lisa who told me that the Rombauer name was indeed the Rombauer who wrote The Joy of Cooking. Koerner and John started the winery and great-aunt Irma wrote the cookbook. I guess the foodie in me was a bit surprised that despite a handful of the books for sale in the hospitality room, this framed picture was the extent of their affiliation with the classic tome.

2002 Merlot – Cherry and dark current with a layer of vanilla spice shows in the nose. Slightly hot entry smooths out to display a lingering vanilla finish. $28.75

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Core of blueberry with a whisper of green olive and dried herbs. Dry entry bursts with fruit and finishes with supple spice. $36.75

2002 Napa Zinfandel – Decidedly fruity red in aroma and initial taste. The fruit bomb explodes into spice showing cinnamon and pepper. Sweet mid-palate with a long, lingering fruity finish. $25.00

2004 Chardonnay – Another winery that pours Chardonnay at the end. I wonder if it is a tactical plan to make the palate heightened with the tannins but then introduce a wine which will of course taste more distinct? At a 100% malo, the bouquet showed both dark tropical fruit as well as white stonefruit. The mouth entry was sweet (no surprise!) with a tangy mid-section and a touch of cream on the finish. I was fascinated by the customer or two who walked in to buy a Chardonnay and never realized that Rombauer made other wines… $29.75

Rombauer Vineyards ~ 3522 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5170

There is something terribly special about being in on the ground floor of something. I certainly feel this way about Calix. With no formal tasting room, I was honored to be invited to a special release party of their 2003 vintage. While 2002 was their first vintage, this is a small winery relying on custom crush facility that I predict will start getting more and more notice. What is documented here in this blog entry was that release party held on a very hot Sunday afternoon by a cool, luxurious pool…

Ron Goldin (and his un-photographed partner, Mark Young) own ten acres of land at what is considered the south end of Calistoga, bordering on the north of Napa on the Silverado Trail. When they purchased this acreage ten years ago, the land housed horses. As local restaurateurs it did not take Ron and Mark long to realize that their property would be better suited to wine grapes than to horses. The property, affectionately named Masked Man, is mostly planted with Syrah but some Cabernet Sauvignon is beginning to appear on the Calix label.

BTW, I have to mention that I love the Calix name — it is the Latin name for cup but imbues far more meaning in that it is more of a sacred chalice, used for celebrations. Pictured here is Rudy Zuidema and wife, Amy. While Ron and Mark provide the grapes and support for Calix, it is winemaker Rudy who crafts the wine and Amy who does all the sales, distribution, etc…

This event was more than a celebration of new wine. It was a revelry of friends and family. A band, placed safely under large white umbrellas, played rhumba music while dogs romped and teased children swimming in the adjacent pool. It was fabulous to meet with new friends as well as see friendly faces, all trying to stay cool under the beating rays of the sun. I envied the children their swimtrunks and inhibitions.

One new friend whose acquaintance I am making is Joel Ehrlich. Joel is the Executive Chef at several of Mark and Ron’s restaurants including Brannan’s and Flat Iron Grill. I was fortunate to dine at both for some recent reviews and couldn’t have been more thrilled at my evening at Brannan’s. Joel catered the Calix release party and was working hard in the kitchen when I snuck in to take this photo. My only regret for the day was the heat. I got to taste one of the Calix offerings over dinner but did not take notes. The notes below do not do the wine justice as it was just plain too hot to fully appreciate what I know to be quality wines. I look forward to tasting them again in the future.

2003 Calix Masked Man Syrah – Chocolate, blueberry, and blackberry aromas. Soft entry that explodes to show balanced tannins and a supple, concentrated finish. $33.00

2003 Calix Parmalee-Hill Vineyard Syrah – Deep, dark purple with explosive smokey bacon bouquet. Rich dark fruit flavors with impressive spice characteristics. $33.00

BARREL SAMPLES

2004 Calix Masked Man Syrah – Flavors of soy sauce, bacon, and blackberry. Dry entry that exhibits dark core of fruit. Still a bit hot. Not yet priced

2004 Calix Masked Man Cabernet Sauvignon – A limited production of 75 cases, when bottled. Blackberry and some greeness. Flavors of chocolate and dark cassis. Not yet priced.

Calix ~
        3433 Scenic Drive ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-363-5574