Rutherford Hill – 159

September 15th, 2005

Rh_sign_1The Napa valley is a valley which means that it is surrounded by hills, mountains, and peaks. It also means there are wineries in them thar hills and I think that despite the occasional car sickness that is experienced when traversing the dizzying roads, there is nothing I love more than going to mountain wineries. I had been looking forward to Rutherford Hill Winery because it lies on the same mountain as Auberge du Soleil. In a sense, it actually sits on top of the resort.
 

Rh_picnic_area_1Rutherford Hill has many draws to to it, not the least of which is its picnic grounds. I’m a huge advocate of wineries that have picnic grounds accessible to customers and the view from this one doesn’t get much better. I’ve been up a number of times and if the weather is cool and mild enough, be prepared to see wildlife of the Disney persuasion (think Bambi and Thumper).

Rh_bldgThe building itself is stately and greets you when you come through the gates as you have just ascended the sometimes single-lane, windy road. The tasting room is broken into two areas; the Current Release Tasting or the Reserve Tasting. For $10, a tour can be arranged and are apparently quite popular as I watched a number of customers waiting for one (although it surprised me that while they were waiting, they didn’t bother to taste… perhaps afterwards).

Rh_tasting_room2003 Napa Valley Chardonnay – Creamy aromas of white peach with a tease of lemon. Viscous, thick mouthfeel with tons of butter and oak on the finish. $17.50

2003 Rosé of Merlot – Fresh, young raspberry and cherry with a solid undercore of meringue. Easy tongue play showing bright carnation and jasmine underpinings. $15.00

2002 Syrah – Clove and dark plum dance in a somewhat steamy, hot playground. Tight entry blossoms a tad, but I wanted more. $28.00

2002 Napa Valley Merlot – Dense, dark brambleberry lies atop dusty twigs. Medium bodied and mostly mineral in the beginning doesn’t seem to go anywhere. $25.00

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Black plum and black currant almost overwhelms. There is some definite chocolate in the mouth but the finish is thin and harsh. $32.00

2001 Episode – A Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend at $150 a bottle, I was extremely disappointed to taste a bottle that had obviously been open for several days. Port-like mouth entry and nothing but oxidized aromas. Charging $10.00 for a 1.5 ounce toast, make sure the bottle is fresh before plunking down the moolah.

2001 Port Zin – Red floral and red fruit with twigs in this zinfandel brandy-fortified offering. Unknown price.

Rutherford Hill Winery ~ 200 Rutherford Hill Road ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-1871

Rutherford Ranch/Round Hill Vineyards – 158

September 14th, 2005

Rr_signAs one travels up the Silverado Trail, northbound from Napa to Calistoga, there is a single large turn off towards Lake Berryessa.  After rows and rows of vineyards, the intersection suddenly stands out as a span of open field is punctuated by a large collection of old, stately trees. The trees are the shading and elegant setting of Rutherford Ranch.

Rr_guest_housesThe estate has a a small creek running through it as well as a pond. A series of small buildings, which I believe are guest houses, are nestled amongst the trees. I did not get an opportunity to walk around and hope that the proprietors have made this idyllic space available to visitors and not simply relegated the enclave to office space. The day of my visit was just after a family wedding and any crew who could have answered questions was too inundated with other visitors.

Rr_bldgThe tasting room itself is contained within a stately, sprawling building. I was able to talk with one chap in the tasting room about the two separate labels. Many business decisions are made when second labels are created and I was curious about the differences between the Rutherford Ranch and Round Hill labels. Apparently the gist of the Round Hill entirely for a bulk retail market and not really poured in the tasting room. Although the day of my visit, the Round Hill Chardonnay was being poured as it had won a series of awards.

Rr_tasting_roomWhat is most impressive about the winery’s operation is that in producing over 100,000 cases, the presentation of two labels and a public facility is not that which impacts consumers most. It is a private label business which includes the likes of Auberge du Soleil and a number of other prestigious restaurants. You may never know the next time you are dining in our favorite restaurant and are offered their own wine — it very well could be a Rutherford Ranch wine!  A note on prices; their website does not currently list selling prices and I have misplaced the price sheet I took from the winery, but suffice to say that the average price is in the $10 to $20 range.

2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Rutherford Ranch – Tart grapefruit dominates. Crisp, acidic mouth entry shows pungent lemon grass with a chewy lemon peel finish.

2004 Round Hill Chardonnay – A hint of malo displays a bit defined cream and butter upon entry but finishes a bit crisp with textured lemon flavors.

2003 Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay – Rich lemon bouquet with thick buttery mouth entry.

2002 Rutherford Ranch Merlot – Mostly warm berry tones in the nose with a hint of metal funk. Smooth entry is a bit hot with a twiggy, earthy mid-palate and a sharp chocolate finish.

2002 Rutherford Ranch Zinfandel – 97% Zinfandel, 1.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1.5% ‘Proprietary Blend’ – Medium bodied offering with tons of black cherry and licorice aromas. Simple, easy mouth entry with a crisp, mocha finish.

2002 Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon – Tight, blackberry bouquet coupled with earth and oak. Blueberry flavors are somewhat flaccid.

2004 Rutherford Ranch Moscato – Clear straw color. Sweet orange blossom and yellow flowers in the nose. Clean flavors of ripe pear and apricot. Not syrupy or overly sweet but bright and engaging.

Rutherford Ranch/Round Hill Vineyards ~ 1680 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 800-778-0424

Napa Cellars – 157

September 10th, 2005

Cd_signI have long admired the Napa Cellars‘ logo. The clean pen-and-ink drawing of an up-turned hand, scrolled elegantly upward. It is the type of script that makes me believe it actually says something, but I’m not brilliant enough to see it. What is the orb floating above the hand? A grape? The world? Is the hand waiting to grasp what is plunging downwards towards the grasp or has the hand just flung the sphere into the air? Questions like this plague me, I’m afraid and I doubt I will ever have a definitive answer. But I like it, regardless.

Cd_bldgNapa Cellars is one of the first wineries that greets visitors entering the Napa Valley via Highway 29. The building is a Bucky-Fuller geodesic dome (albeit a slightly squashed, low-slung dome). It is one of the rare down-valley wineries boasting a public picnic facility — something of a rarity I have come to learn.

Cd_tasting_roomDespite the impression that the building is mildly squat, the interior tasting room is surprisingly open with its vaulted ceilings and sky lights. During my visit, some first time wine tasters were visiting from out-of-state and the pouring staff were extremely helpful in the instruction of Wine-Tasting 101. This is actually rather refreshing as I have witnessed far too many occasions where those just starting out were treated with more condescension instead of congeniality. Easy to drink and affordable, Napa Cellars is a great place to begin when first visiting the Napa Valley.

2004 Vin Gris – An odd rosé blend of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Pale, pink color with fresh berry aromas that is only a tad sweet on entry. Surprisingly integrated and not too tangy. Fresh finish. $14.95

2002 Napa Valley Zinfandel – From south St. Helena, this produces a rich, soft nose of dark spice including nutmeg and clove that just barely hides a hint of black pepper. Chocolate entry sweetens in the mid-palate to a long, dry finish of cocoa. $19.75

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Toasty nose with a touch of green bell pepper. Dry entry produces cedar and dark berry. The finish was a tad thin. $25.75

2001 Napa Valley Syrah – From a north Napa vineyard, only 500 cases were produced. Sweet licorice and blackberry liqueur show richness and complexity. Chewy mouth entry expands with dark fruit and vanilla. $32.50

2001 Late Harvest Zinfandel – Full bodied and rich, a medium amount of herbs keeps it from being overly sweet. Integrated fruit and cocoa. $29.75

Napa Cellars ~ 7481 St. Helena Highway ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-944-2565

Raymond – 156

September 9th, 2005

Raymond_signIn the Napa valley, between Highway 29 and the Silverardo Trail, there are just a few access roads that connect to two main arteries which keep the life blood of America’s most famous wine area flowing. For visitors to the Napa valley, it is exactly those wineries on the 29 and the Silverado Trail which see the majority of the business. But it is those little-travelled access roads which often house worthwhile investigation. Raymond Winery is just such a find.

Raymond_bldgZinfandel Lane is one of the connecting roads and lies just south of the town of St. Helena. There are actually only two or three public wineries on this road, the rest being appointment-only. The surprise is that I had driven past Raymond dozens of times without realizing it was there, being so well hidden by shrubbery and plant life. Driving through a maze of vines from the entrance, the winery complex comes into view, reflecting a 1950s ranch house in its epoch, lying low to the ground. Despite the sense of entering fifty-year old time warp, the landscaping is open, vast, and inviting due to the predominance of colorful flowers.

Raymond_tasting_room_1The tasting room is similarly austere with a touch of non-tangible nostaligia. There is nothing specific in alluding to the age; perhaps it is merely the architecture. The tasting room is not overwhelmed with retail items and the pouring staff is extremely gracious and helpful. The big draw? The wines — truly excellent quality juice at moderately affordable prices. At a production level of 300,000 cases, it is an impressive facility that is producing a LOT of wine worth tasting:

2003 Napa Valley Reserve Sauvignon Blanc – Golden bouquet of melon and tropical fruit. Very smooth, easy mouth feel with a touch of cream and no stridency. Crisp finish that keeps going, finishing with a heightened green apple flavor. $12.50

2003 Napa Valley Reserve Chardonnay – At a caseload production of almost 25,000 cases, this is a  pretty substantial amount of wine. Fresh fruit of pear, mango, and papaya aromas. The smooth, soft entry seems a bit flabby to me, but finishes with a bit more richness than anticipated. $18.00

1995 Merlot Reserve – Port-like dusty floral bouquet. Dark, integrated, toasty flavors of twigs and a faint finish of mint. Reasonable deal if drunk immediately. (On a special sell-off; $90 a case)

2001 Rutherford Reserve Merlot – Relatively small production of only 500 cases. 99% Merlot, 1% Cabernet. Classic Rutherford dust aromas that were slightly sweet with a touch of green pepper. Intense nose that continued into the mouth entry with dark red fruit and a long, balanced finish. $30.00

2001 St. Helena Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot. Almost 1,000 cases. Rich dark red wine displaying dark spice and plum in the nose. Easy, smooth mouth entry of rich blackberry and refined spices in the complex finish. 13.8% alcohol! $45.00

2001 Rutherford Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – 99% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Merlot. Almost 1,000 cases. Hugh, spicy aromas that were surprisingly Syrah-like in blackness; dark fruit, blackberry liqueuer, and dark florals. Sweet entry exudes some dusty floral qualities. The wine smelled older and more developed than it tasted. Easy to drink now, but with a developed integration and supple mouthfeel that will only improve with age. $45.00

2000 Generations Cabernet Sauvignon – Dark spicy pepper and Moroccan spices with a touch of earth in its bouquet. Rich, dark flavors with some green bell pepper and mostly complex, dark currant, berry, and tobacco flavors. $65.00

Raymond Vineyard & Cellar ~ 849 Zinfandel Lane ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 800-525-2659

Diamond Oaks – 155

September 7th, 2005

Do_signDiamond Oaks is a relative new-comer to the Napa Valley wine scene. Located on the edge of a mountain up the Oakville Grade, the building facilities was once better known as Vichon (a Mondavi project) – and, for a short while, La Famiglia (another Mondavi project).

Do_entranceIndian-born Dinesh Maniar is the current proprietor. Having already acquired numerous Napa and Sonoma vineyards, the acquisition of this property from the Mondavis was a jewel in his wine-bedecked crown. By all accounts from those who work with him, Maniar is an introspective, unassuming gentleman who has made some very impressive improvements to the property.

Do_tasting_room_1Do_tasting_room_2The tasting room, when it was La Famiglia, was known for the hand-painted wall-sized mural. That was the only aspect of the original hospitality area that Maniar retained. The building was slightly retrofitted to accommodate much-needed windows for light, new marble floors, and elegant lighting fixtures (selected by Dinesh himself).

Do_picnic_areaOf special note is the picturesque picture area. Undoubtedly one of the most stunning views of the valley, for a mere $30.00, the winery will reserve a table, provide a bottle of wine and glasses, and place a checkered tablecloth to await your culinary delight. Corkpulls are strategically dangled from the trees, just in case you forget…

2001 Chalk Hill Chardonnay – Maniar owns 95 acres of Chalk Hill vineyards. This 100% malo chard is fruit forward, with intense lemon and tropical fruit aromas. Initial flavors are fruit forward with lemon and a hint of cream. The finish shows nuts, oak, and a touch of butter. $29.00

2001 Reserve Carneros Chardonnay - Another 100% malo, but this one has seen 100% French oak. Rich, full, layered offering with a tropical bouquet surrounding a core of butterscotch. Flavors dance between lemon meringue and clean pear. $39.00

2003 Carneros Pinot Noir – Simple aromas of cherry, licorice, and earth in the nose. Bigger fruit flavors explodes in the mouth, counter to the thinner bouquet. Tight and young, earth and licorice dominate. $19.00

2002 Silver Carneros Merlot – Deep tones of green olive, rich earth, and some cherry. Richer fruit flavors of solid dark fruit, a mid-palate of toast, finishes with a tease of eucalyptus. $17.00

2002 Hira Ranch Merlot, Carneros – 70% French oak, 20% of that is new – the other 30% is American oak. Dark chocolate and tobacco qualities in the nose. Initially soft and supple upon entry, dark berry and earthy qualities become rich and complex on the finish. $29.00

2003 Cabernet, Alexander Valley – (Wine Club only). A pre-release tasting is still a bit green with tons of rustic herbs and cherry. Gobs of chocolate mint on the nice, lingering finish. No price.

Diamond Oaks ~ 1595 Oakville Grade ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-948-3000