Ultimate California Wine Blog

When you go to Benziger, be prepared for a long visit as there is lots to do here. For starters, this is a winery that is far off the main drag from other Sonoma wineries so getting there is a journey. It is located up a small, windy mountain road surrounded by secluded mountain residences. Dozens of buildings greet the visitor after passing through the white picket fence in a theme park-like atmosphere of gingerbread houses, passenger trams,and directional signs.

It is hard to not be charmed with an outhouse and as a winery, Offering charm, instruction, and great fun, I arrived too late in the date, but apparently the multi-passenger trams run several times a day and offer a 45-minute vineyard, garden, and wildlife sanctuary tour. Self-guided walking tours exist in adjacent gardens to show off what makes Benziger really special: Certified Organic and Biodynamic wines.

These are big buzzwords in the industry these days and I’m not going to provide an entire dissertation, but will give you a link: here. Suffice to say I have a growing appreciation for wineries promoting organic growing practices producing biodynamic wine. There are many doing it on a small scale, but here is an opportunity to see it on a large scale and taste multiple examples. Benziger is large, producing 176,000 cases of wine (not ALL biodynamic) and several dozen varietals including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, multiple blends, and a sweet wine. I was selective in my tasting:

2000 Reserve Pinot Noir – 65% of the grapes come from the Bien Nacido Vineyards in the Santa Maria area of Santa Barbara and 35% from the Bodega area; Sterling Little Vineyards.. Huge, spicy nose with core of raspberry and cherry. Even and balanced, the smooth mouthfeel is defined and balanced. Predominately berry in its presentation. $37.00

2002 Bien Nacido Syrah – Medium-bodied, a dichotomy of aromas of boysenberry and a touch of hospital do not prepare for the intensely smooth, integrated mouth entry. Integrated and complex with a touch of sage on the finish. $37.00

2002 Petite Sirah, McNab Ranch, Mendocino – Spicy, dark blueberry liqueur in the small-production wine (380 cases). Surprisingly easy to drink, where many this young are bombs, this medium-bodied wine starts a little sweet, intensifies in the mid-palate, and finishes with a happy little bite of spice. $35.00

2003 Estate Sonoma Mountain Red – 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. Dark cherry, cocoa, and tobacco aromas. Warm, soft entry shows deep, integrated terroir-driven notes with defined earthy components. $49.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County – This wine has been blended from grapes that come from four different vineyards throughout Sonoma. Immediate bouquet of cedar and eucalyptus complements with dark fruit flavors. Smooth and velvety, easy tannins are supple and expressive. $42.00

2002 Tribute – Their flagship wine dedicated to Helen and Bruno Benziger, this wine is darkly intense with black cherry and tobacco. Smooth erotic with earthy qualities. The feelings in the mouth are redolent with smooth tannins and hints of smoke. The finish is long and supple. $75.00

Benziger ~ 1883 London Ranch Road ~ Sonoma ~ Ca ~ 95442 ~ 707-935-3000
Three different tasting menus available, five tastes each;
$5.00 for their large production family wines
$10.00 for reserve and single vineyard wines
$10.00 for biodynamic and premiere wines

Emilio’s Terrace is a very small vineyard located in Oakville between Harlan and Staglin. Pretty nice neighborhood, huh? I had the opportunity to taste the wine at the latest Copia had another one of its lovely in-house tastings which frequently gives me access to wineries with no public facilities or tasting rooms. That is the case with Emilio’s Terrace, which is owned by Phil Schlein. The wine is made by Joe Cafaro and only 400 to 700 cases are ever made each year. The certified organic vineyard are 650 feet up above Robert Mondavi’s To-Kolan vineyard. While they grow both Cabernet and Merlot, A large portion of their Merlot is reserved and blended with some purchased grapes for a second label, by-the-glass restaurant wine. The good stuff is kept for the Emilio’s Terrace.

2002 Emilio’s Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Merlot. Dark purple in color, this intensely complex wine shows black fruit aromas of currant and black cherry. Hints of vanilla waft near the back of the nose. The mouth entry is rich and defined, showing layers of supple spice, brambleberry, and hefty tannins. Absolutely spendid. $50.00

Emilio’s Terrace ~ P.O. Box 88 ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-257-6761
No tastings available.

Most people know the name of Fetzer as it is the sixth largest producer of wine in the United States. I was very fortunate to spend the weekend exploring the Mendocino Wine Affair and had some time to wander around the Fetzer grounds before the event.

The estate is stunning and worthy of setting aside several hours, especially if you are into gardens. I regret that this was about the time my camera failed as we were given a tour of the gardens by their resident Gardner, Kate Frey (this is admitting that I swiped her picture from their website, even though I liked mine better…) She has worked on the grounds for almost twenty years and is a tremendous wealth of knowledge. She somehow reminded me of Katherine Hepburn, as I imagined Kate in her large straw hat, wandering her gardens in New England…

Besides the gardens, the estate holds several tasting rooms (both private and public), a small retail market, and a cafe which is just perfect to rest weary feet or gain some much-needed refreshment from the day’s tastings. One word of warning, I’m not much of a shopper but due to a spill earlier in the day, I was considering buying a shirt for Shawn to change into – $75.00 for a short-sleeve polo shirt seemed a tad excessive.

There are a number of different tastings available, from a simple four taste selection of Fetzer wines for $3.00 (which includes a glass!) to a more premium sampling of Bonterra wines, Fetzer’s Reserve Collection, for $5.00 (which includes a glass). There also exists two different styles of food and wine pairing for $15, most of the food being a variety of cheeses, meats, and dips, with four different wines.

I opted for a combination of Bonterra and Fetzer wines to taste as the Bonterra are organically grown grapes and is a second label for Fetzer.

2003 Bonterra Viognier – Kiwi and grapefruit blossomed in the nose with a delightful crisp, fruity entry. $18.00

2004 Rousanne – Unusual to find this French grape. Very clean, crisp aromas and flavors of apple blossom. Bright acidity and a slightly sweet finish. $22.00

2002 Fetzer Reserve Pinot Noir - Fresh raspberry and strawberry flavors are rather forward in their ripeness. Slightly compressed, mineral tones in the mid-palate with an herbal, metallic finish. $40.00

2002 Bonterra Merlot – Intense dark berry with blackberry, brambleberry, and loganberry aromas and flavors. Slightly mineral mid-palate which subsides and demonstrates dusty floral notes. Sweetens a tad on the finish. $18.00

2001 Bonterra Syrah – Medium garnet red and medium body over all. Hints of raspberry liqueur with teasings of spice. Not as thick and jammy as I normally prefer, but an easy-drinking Syrah. No price obtained.

Fetzer ~ 13601 Old River Road ~ Hopland ~ CA 95449

When driving into Mendocino county, if you stay on Highway 101, Hopland is the first town that shows signs of civilization. Ukiah is the next town on the map, a little less than fifteen miles north of Hopland and while a single-lane, vineyard-flanked narrow passage, it is has a few roadside wineries worth visiting which sit in between the two hamlets. Jepson, on the west side of the road, is worthy of such a visit.

The large, industrial building is set far off the edge of the road, at the end of a dusty, unpaved road. The road belies the number of guests that are apparently expected as a surprisingly large number of parking spots await you — but those could be for the wine-making facilities moreso than for a simple tasting room.

Not badgering the poor bloke behind the counter with too many historical questions, a quick perusal through their website provides some of the more intriguing bits of information about Jepson; they practice sustainable agriculture which is a tremendous plus for me, and they are one of the few wineries I have yet stumbled upon that along with a large array of still wine, also produces a sparkling and a brandy.

2002 Sauvignon Musque – An unusual grape to be sure — a clone of Sauvignon Blanc not often seen as a 100% varietal, their limited 300 case production is fashionably light and easy with integrated aromas of lemon and grapefruit with white melon showing on the mouth entry with expands to a creamy finish. $13.00

2001 Viognier – Very engaging offering with white stone fruit and honey in the nose. A very smooth entry provides honeysuckle, pineapple, and a hint of spice in the mid-palate. A crisp, tangy finish proves quite delightful.

2003 Chateau d’Alicia – With 1.4% residual sugar, I would anticipate this 100% French Colombard to be sweeter than it was. Very pale straw tone, distinct green apple in aromas and flavors. Clean. Very, very clean feeling. $7.00

2001 Carignane – It is always a joy to find wineries bottling this unexpected Rhone varietal as a 100% offering. It was a tad sad then, that I found this wine to be oxidized, quite probably from having been open for more than a day. I could detect some light berry tones just revealing some dried floral qualities. Would love to try a fresh bottle. $14.00

2001 Syrah – Surprisingly dusty in aromas and flavors, this syrah shows earthy sensibilities in its initial aromas. Spicy entry gives way to some smokiness in the mid-palate with dusty cocoa near the end. $20.00

2003 Petite Sirah – Intense combinations of sweet soy sauce and barbecue meat intertwines in its aromas. The flavors open up to show smokiness, integrated behind the richness with a brambleberry finish. $24.00

Viognier Mistel – A non-vintage dessert wine made with 20% brandy, this golden straw essence enters the mouth with bright fruit of pears and honey but shows a finish that is both elegant but redolent with hazelnuts and cream. $18.00

Zinfandel Mistel – Another sweet wine that is orangey in color had a bit of oxidized aromas, with creamy creme brulee flavors and it slight bite on the finish. $18.00

Jepson Winery ~ 10400 South Highway 101 ~ Ukiah ~ CA ~ 95482 ~ 800-516-7342