Ultimate California Wine Blog

It isn’t often I get to document the opening of a new winery. I have been watching the construction of Paraduxx for almost a year with so many questions raging through my brain. Mostly, what would possess a well-known winery such as Duckhorn, to put an astonishing amount of money into a facility for a second label — a second label, no less, that is a BLEND???

It is odd, yes, but all will be revealed… The grand opening was a masterful affair of grace, good wine, and perfection in catering. Valet parking attendants took the car upon arrival and a small crowd was already gathered around a reception table in front of the newly-constructed guest building. Brightly yellow-colored with darker apricot trim, the smell of freshly-applied paint lingered in the air.

The tasting room, with its vaulted, wood-beamed ceiling, and oversized windows, has been filled with comfortable Barcelona chairs sitting scattered around an inviting, expansive view.  From there, we see the decagon fermentation cellar, a large, elegantly-designed building that Dan Duckhorn has been dreaming about for years.  He bought these 40 acres back in 1996 and plans were made then to eventually build a winery on this property when — and only when — the Paraduxx blend was accepted as a wine in its own standing and not just as an offshoot second label from the Duckhorn name.

Glancing through the window, there is not only the decagon building, but on the day of my visit, the catered celebration; hors d’oeuvre stations, cocktail tables, and multiple pouring tables where earlier vintages of Paraduxx were being offered.

The ten-sided building is magical, with the brand new, large stainless steel fermentation tanks surrounding the Porsche of grape presses. This is a basket press that uses higher pressure, getting better extraction out of the grapes.

How do I know all this? For the opening, Bill Nancarrow, the winemaker, gave a guided tour, gleeful and gloating like a kid on Christmas morning with a brand new fire truck. The winery grand opening party was not exactly Christmas morning, however. September 1st was the official day they were open for business, with their first load of grapes arriving for crushing on the 2nd. Bill has been the winemaker for three years and also explained that the 40 acres only provides about 50% of the grapes needed for the Paraduxx wine. The remainder is purchased, which is a standard practice in the industry.

So now there is a nifty new winery to visit on the glorious Silverado Trail. A stunning facility, gorgeous wine, and beautiful surroundings.

1998 Paraduxx – Exact blend unavailable. Sweet and exotic in its age, this wine was being poured from magnums that were not available for sale. Spicy and erotic, the balance showed deep tobacco and cherry tones with an earthy complex mid-palate. Intense and well-aged, tones of vanilla and dark black fruit showing sweet on the end.

2000 Paraduxx – Earthy, dark rustic cherry tones. Aging smoothly with intense depth, a touch of dusty floral qualities in the mid-palate is enticing and exotic with a light, sweet vanilla finish. $

2001 Paraduxx – Developed dark spice and black fruit bouquet. Heady and rich upon entry with black cherry, black plum, and blueberry. Cedar wafts in for a mere moment and is finished with layers of coconut, vanilla, and toasty oak.

2002 Paraduxx – Fruit forward aromas of cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and black currant. Jammy entry that is peppery is spicy with black pepper and hot brown spices. A whisper of vanilla behind the black plum and blackberry finish.

2003 Paraduxx – 63% Zinfandel, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. This was a preview tasting of a wine to be released in January, 2006. Aromas of dark blueberry, spicy cocoa,  chocolate, and vanilla cream. The entry is still young and fruity, dominating in blueberry flavors but with a rich inlay of vanilla liqueur and a hint of lavender. Not yet priced.

Paraduxx ~ 1000 Lodi Lane ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-7108
$10.00 tasting includes current release and two library wines.

I have long admired the Napa Cellars‘ logo. The clean pen-and-ink drawing of an up-turned hand, scrolled elegantly upward. It is the type of script that makes me believe it actually says something, but I’m not brilliant enough to see it. What is the orb floating above the hand? A grape? The world? Is the hand waiting to grasp what is plunging downwards towards the grasp or has the hand just flung the sphere into the air? Questions like this plague me, I’m afraid and I doubt I will ever have a definitive answer. But I like it, regardless.

Napa Cellars is one of the first wineries that greets visitors entering the Napa Valley via Highway 29. The building is a Bucky-Fuller geodesic dome (albeit a slightly squashed, low-slung dome). It is one of the rare down-valley wineries boasting a public picnic facility — something of a rarity I have come to learn.

Despite the impression that the building is mildly squat, the interior tasting room is surprisingly open with its vaulted ceilings and sky lights. During my visit, some first time wine tasters were visiting from out-of-state and the pouring staff were extremely helpful in the instruction of Wine-Tasting 101. This is actually rather refreshing as I have witnessed far too many occasions where those just starting out were treated with more condescension instead of congeniality. Easy to drink and affordable, Napa Cellars is a great place to begin when first visiting the Napa Valley.

2004 Vin Gris – An odd rosé blend of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Pale, pink color with fresh berry aromas that is only a tad sweet on entry. Surprisingly integrated and not too tangy. Fresh finish. $14.95

2002 Napa Valley Zinfandel – From south St. Helena, this produces a rich, soft nose of dark spice including nutmeg and clove that just barely hides a hint of black pepper. Chocolate entry sweetens in the mid-palate to a long, dry finish of cocoa. $19.75

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Toasty nose with a touch of green bell pepper. Dry entry produces cedar and dark berry. The finish was a tad thin. $25.75

2001 Napa Valley Syrah – From a north Napa vineyard, only 500 cases were produced. Sweet licorice and blackberry liqueur show richness and complexity. Chewy mouth entry expands with dark fruit and vanilla. $32.50

2001 Late Harvest Zinfandel – Full bodied and rich, a medium amount of herbs keeps it from being overly sweet. Integrated fruit and cocoa. $29.75

Napa Cellars ~ 7481 St. Helena Highway ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-944-2565

Smack-dab in the center of Hopland, in what used to be the High School, lies one of Brutocao Cellars tasting rooms. Still trying to map out this region, I may be going out on a limb by my category placement; Sanel Valley. You see, according the Mendocino Winegrowers Alliance, “There are 10 growing regions within Mendocino County. Eight are official
AVAs, while two (Ukiah and Sanel Valleys) have not yet been granted
official AVA status even though they are very significant grape growing
regions that had their first vineyards in the 1800’s.” And if you look at one of their maps, Brutocao’s Hopland TASTING ROOM is the center of Sanel Valley.  Seeing they also have an Anderson Valley tasting room, I have included that as well but I am
honestly not sure where the specific vineyards lie as so indicated on their wines labels and hope that someone will either enlighten me or that I will have an opportunity to visit more
often to learn the region. I also want to add a private perturbance that I had a camera failure for a few of these blogs and lost a dozen or so pictures, this being the first.

One of the extremely charming aspects of Brutocao is its placement in Hopland — as indicated, dead center in the two-lane town. But moreso, is that it is located in what was the Hopland High School adjacent to a bocce ball field. The morning of my visit there was a tournament to decide the summer teams. It seemed all so civilized and lovely. The tasting room also sits in front of The Crushed Grape restaurant so that from the interior of the building, right by the tasting bar, is the opening to the restaurant. The tasting room also hosts the dispensing and tasting of local artisinal olive oil and an especially elegant mural behind the tasting bar. An image of the city of Florence, the Brutocao winged lion logo can be seen in the part of the architectural motifs of the mural. All that, and pretty good wines too…

2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Feliz Vineyards – Aromas of warm melon and lemon peel shows depth and elegance in its accompanying flavors. Slight mineral finish does not interfere. $12.00

2003 Chardonnay, Bliss Vineyard – 100% stainless steel with no ML, this wine showed bright, clean green apple in its bouquet and tone. Citrus on the mid-palate. $15.00

2003 Reserve Chardonnay, Bliss Vineyard, Riserva d’Arento – 100% ML with oak. Similar apple qualities in aromas and flavors as in the previous Chardonnay, but a bit creamier. Rich, melon entry but a surprisingly crisp finish, considering its thick texture. $24.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Feliz Vineyard – Medium-bodied with fresh raspberries and cherry predominating. Clean, easy entry with a thin, mineral mid-palate. $18.00

2001 Merlot, Brutocao Vineyards – Rich raspberry and dark cherry that teases of earthiness. Some thin, herbal tones in the mid-palate, a dusty coffee filled out the finish. $20.00

2001 Merlot, Feliz Vineyard Select – An unfiltered offering, this rustic, earthy wine showed layers of dried twigs and leather with a tease of cherry and a finish of herbs. $25.00

2000 Reserve Merlot, Riserva d’Argento – With 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, a playful interchange between elegant raspberry and cedar, layers of dried herbs and tobacco develop to a redolent finish. $25.00

2003 Zinfandel, Brutocao Vineyards – Dark berry shows immediately in the nose and softens to display sherry-like qualities in the back of the nasal passages. Warm berries fill the mouth but thins a bit to a tinny, herbal finish. $20.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Brutocao Vineyards – Unfiltered. Dark, ripe cherry aromas and hints of green bell pepper show in the nose in a sherry-like essence. Concentrated dried fruit flavors produce a tease of sweetness on the back-palate with a long finish of black cherry. $20.00

2002 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Brutocao Vineyards – Unfiltered. Black loganberries, black raspberries, and black cherries all show alongside layers of dried herbs in its aromas. The dried herbal qualities show again in the mouth entry, alongside dried twigs and a dry, dusty finish that hints at smoke in its even finish. $34.00

Brutocao, Hopland ~ 13500 S. Highway 101 ~ Hopland ~ CA ~ 95449 ~ 707-744-1664
Brutocao, Anderson Valley ~ 7000 Highway 128 ~ Philo ~ CA ~ 95466 ~ 707-895-2152