Ultimate California Wine Blog

Rios Wine Company, LLC is a bit of a hard find; located on a side alley off the main drag in Calistoga, you have to know where it is (or be willing to do a lot of stumbling around) to find it. The names from the three brothers, Manuel, Rafael, and Albert Rios, and their cousin, Jesus Hernandez. These are serious wine guys, with all four of them having started in the fields and working to the point where they could learn viticulture and start their own label.

It is still a small winery, producing only a handful of wines, two whites (a Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay) and two reds (a blend and Cabernet Sauvignon), under the name Solovino.

During my visit, I only tasted the Sauvignon Blanc and the blend. I found the SauvBlanc a bit thin on the entry but with detectable tropical fruit and grassiness. The sharpness of the entry rounded a bit but the wine was more tart than I care for, although the finish of green apple helped.

The blend, known as Mixto, is an equal blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. This was a very easy-drinking wine with well-integrated red stone fruit and mild spice on the entry which blossoms to a darker cherry and hints of floral notes. This would be a great BBQ wine.

1334 Lincoln Avenue, Ste. B
Calistoga, CA 94515
707.942.1376

Throwing myself back into the reviewing of wines and wineries is going to be quite a process. While I used to be able to drive around the Napa and Sonoma counties, being a San Francisco-bound girl makes those trips a bit more cumbersome. To start, I will be relying on large tastings coming to the city and usually, to Fort Mason. This last weekend was Rhone Rangers, and while I did not get through nearly as many wineries as I would like, it was a great pleasure to meet new friends and taste through some lovely wines — not the least of which was Zaca Mesa. Eric Mohseni is the winemaker and with the exception of a Chardonnay, their website shows they are almost an exclusively Rhone varietal producer.

A few things that Eric told me during my tasting; he models a few wines after the Château-du-Pape legacy, they are all about sustainable practices in the vineyards, and Zaca Mesa does not source grapes, but grows it all themselves and have done so for over 25 years. They claim to have the oldest Syrah grapes in the Central Coast and are completely family-owned and operated.

2008 Viognier – Clean and lovely, elegant floral notes with a core of honey balances out bright stone fruit flavors.

2006 Roussanne – Eric was rattling off about the wine going into a tank first and then a neutral barrel, using 60% new oak, but I somewhat zoned out on the specifics as I became enraptured with hints of Turkish rose petals in the full-bodied, spicy offering. A touch of toasty on the finish, an elegant offering I could easily become attached to.

2006 Z Cuvée – Refuted to be the winery’s “quaffing wine,” this was a blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Cinsaut (this particular vintage, anyway), and shows a rich, warm nose of cherry, berry, and dried sage and tarragon.

2006 Z Three – An estate-bottled blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre, there is a rich unctuousness to this offering, with its dark, ripe tannins and liqueur-like berry fruit.

2006 Syrah – Aged in 25% new oak, this was the one wine which did not blow me away. A slightly tannic nose, there was a smokiness which I found a bit stronger than I care for and believe the inbalance is due entirely to its youth.

Zaca Mesa ~ 6905 Foxen Canyon Road ~ P.O. Box 899 ~ Los Olivos ~ 93441 ~ 805.688.9339

Open 10am-4pm daily.

Yes, there a diacritic circumflex above the “u” in this wine’s name and there is a reason for it. Benjamin Sharp, President of Captûre explained it to me at the Word-Up tasting held at Fort Mason. (By the way, Word-Up stands for the Winemakers of the Richmond District, Upper-panhandle and Presidio).

While they apparently specialize in several Bordeaux varietals, all from their Alexander Valley vineyards, it was their Sauvignon Blanc that was being poured and tasted and — after an hiatus of more than four years — brings me back into the world of wine writing.

A stupendous wine, its pale thin yellow belied a huge, fat nose of yuzu and Buddha’s Hand citrus; strong elegant lemon and a hint of clean floral notes. Entering the mouth with force and vigor, this was not the strident, cat-piss Sauvignon Blancs which have become the norm. This glorious wine showed depth and length and was one of the truly swallow-worthy samples tasted at this particular event. I am still remembering it.

And the circumflex? Well, it is a reflection of the image on the label of both the Pine Mountain estate where their vineyards lie as well as a Rorschach-like inkblot of the embrace of a man and woman, the latter hearkening to the great love given in making this wine. Tasting this wine and chatting with Benjamin about the passion they exude in this single offering makes me that much more intrigued to taste the rest of their line-up. Partnering with Denis and May-Britt Malbec, winemakers, and Mike and Carol Foster, proprietors, this is an organization to keep an eye on.

Captûre ~ Post Office Box 1820 ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 707.395.0457

In the past, I have mentioned a great admiration for women winemakers. I have now started an investigation into women-owned wineries. I am very intrigued with the trials and tribulations facing women in what is generally considered a male-dominated industry. For this visit, fate has brought me to visit Zahtila Vineyards, located just a hundred yards north of the Silverado Trail and Calistoga’s Lincoln Road juncture, to chat with Laura Zahtila personally.

Don’t drive too quickly on the main road – the entrance to Zahtila is just on the right and almost hidden by large trees and brush. It would be very easy to drive right past it and head onwards toward Hidden Valley. After parking, I was immediately and warmly greeted by Zoe, the winery dog, who does her duty well as goodwill ambassador. She will guide you up the walkway, past the rose-covered house that acts as the office and administration building, towards the back of the property where the tasting room lies.

Laura is relatively new to the wine world. Having done well during the dot-com boom, a passion for wine brought her to Napa when she purchased her first vineyard from the Traulsen family in 1999. This had been a family endeavor with her husband, but they soon realized the passion was all hers and parted ways.

Laura now has complete control and the business is hers and hers alone and she is learning the business from the ground up. While not having any formal winemaking  training, she relies on a consulting winemaker for much of the technical aspects but ultimately makes all of the blending decisions. The wine has her name so while the buck stops here, she has every reason to be exceptionally proud of what she has created in such a short time! Now moving beyond her own Calistoga vineayrd, she has started contracting for additional grapes and this year released her first Chardonnay.

2004 Napa Valley Chardonnay – From Bocannon fruit, this was a decidedly good first attempt. Clean, crisp grapefruit core with bright citrus pineapple. Very bright, clean entry showing green apple and carved, distinct fruit. $18.00

2003 Zinfandel, Dry Creek – Red berry black fruit with dusty floral tones. Brambleberry dominates the rich mouth entry and shows a hefty chocolate mid-palate. Clean and round, the full flavors produce a distinctive, spicy finish $20.00

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – From Conn Valley fruit, 30% new American oak. Rich ruby red to the edge produces earthy, erotic, smoky bouquet with hints of sage and dried herbs. Medium-bodied, the expansive crisp fruit shows heightened acidity and perfectly integrated tannins. The palate is layered with earth and dark fruit and shows touch of smoke on the finish. $33.00

2002 Beckstoffer Cabernet Sauvignon – From Rutherford fruit, this dark magenta wine produces intense, rich plum aromas with layers of spice, black currant, and a touch of vanilla. Hedonistic in the mouth, the flavors are smooth and complex, a bit sweet on the entry, but rounding out to show opulence and immense quality. Needs to cost more… $48.00

Zahtila Vineyards ~ 2250 Lake County Highway ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~94515 ~ 707-942-9251
$5.00 tasting

I was very surprised when I drove up to Clos Pegase. I was surprised that I had not made a more concerted effort to seek it out, considering the astonishing artwork and beauty of facilities.

Jan and Mitsuko Shrem’s story of their relative humble beginnings is very impressive – and what they subsequently built here in the Napa valley is even more impressive. Jan traveled to Japan in the mid-1950s on vacation. Falling in love with the country and a woman, Mitsuko, he stayed and began a modest publishing in Japan. That modest publishing house grew into a small fortune, enabling Jan to travel to Bordeaux in 1980 to study winemaking.

Within three years, he had purchased fifty acres of prime Calistoga real estate and an invocation of a Bacchic spirit. The facilities were built in the mid-1980s with the intent of housing the impressive art collection that the Shrems had amassed. With a reverent  bow to the Greek temples, the edifice hearkens to the bleached white ancient temples but with a minimal cornice, negative space insets alluding to columns a single pillar in front which invites the visitor to a courtyard of additional pillars, and a color scheme slightly resembling orange and strawberry sherbet.

The grounds are filled with the Shrem’s collection of art. As you enter the facilities, a number of large sculptures greet the visit — from the whimsical giant thumb, set alongside working vineyards, to kinetic and a more classically Greek-oriented Herm. Also available within the grounds are picnic tables. While cheese and other picnic items are available within the tasting room for purchase, it is nice to know there is a spot amongst some engaging artwork where visitors can bring their own picnics.

The tasting room itself is also bedecked with a variety of modern and historical works. Behind the tasting bar is a tremendous scene of a Sybaritic bacchanal but several lighting units are decidedly modern with loops of folded glass cascading down from the ceiling. The room is large and inviting and also contains a two-story glass entryway, adequately showing off the impressive barrels in which wine is aging.

2004 Mitsuko’s Vineyard Chardonnay- Golden yellow in color, dark pineapple dominates the nose. Rich fig and floral qualities coat the mouth in a creamy offering. The finish shows some mineral qualities but the ending is long and luscious. $21.00

2003 Mitsuko’s Vineyard Pegase Circle Reserve Chardonnay – From Carneros, this lighter, lemony colored wine immediately displays lemon meringue qualities in the nose, subsiding to some depth of kiwi and faint pineapple. Soft entry blossoms with yellow floral tones and bright fruit. $24.50

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, the rest being a proprietary blend of Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec. Mostly green nose of bell pepper and chili pepper. Tight, chewy entry was a tad hot. Needs time. $32.50

2002 Pegaso – 44% Petite Sirah, 44% Zinfandel, and 12% Syrah. Opulent bouquet of blueberry, bacon, and dark spiced berry. Tight, hot mouth entry slightly disappoints considering the amazing nose. Perhaps it just needs more time as well. Unknown price.

2000 Graveyard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon – From Carneros. Erratic aromas of spice, green bell pepper, and minerals. Very bright, tight entry showing youth and green chili peppers. Apparently it is considered a good selling point as the pourer was encouraging in his description of the inclusion of pepper flavors. Very, very odd. $60.00

To their credit, I have heard very good things about their wine. I believe the weather may have been far too hot on the day of my visit to give the wine its justice and plan on going back when the ambient temperature is more comfortable.

Clos Pegase ~ 1060 Dunaweal Lane ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 800-366-8583