Dutch Henry – 148
Friday, August 26th, 2005
I spend a bit more time on wine chat lists than I probably should. Every other week or so, someone comes to the Napa valley for the first time and asks where they should go. The pundits on those sites always have their favorites and it is not unusual to see the same posters making the same recommendations over and over. But then someone will mention Dutch Henry as a little-known surprise and a chorus of "Oh yeah, I always forget about that place — its great!" is heard.
My visit to Dutch Henry was similarly enlightening. As I meandered up the Silverado Trail and saw the sign, that light bulb went off as I recalled the accolades. Immediately after parking alongside the building complex, I admired two other customers who were wiling away their Sunday afternoon on Dutch Henry’s adjacent bocce ball court.
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Sitting in front of the tasting rooms, waiting for the next customer to arrive, was this nice chap, showing off a recent crop of squash from a nearby garden which lies on the grounds. Proud of his bounty, I was honored to have been offered what looked like an albino pumpkin. He assured me is an edible squash and not just decorative, which would best be enjoyed sliced thick and grilled. Later on that evening, I found out he was correct.
Dutch Henry’s tasting room is relatively small and feels almost cramped amongst the stacked barrels of the air-conditioned warehouse. The atmosphere is one of being part of the working facilities as only minimal displays of the merchandise exist in this part of the building. In a nearby corner, lies a sample or two of olive oil that is also made by the company. A bit north on the Trail than many tourists tend to go, but undoubtedly worth the effort.
2002 Los Carneros Chardonnay – Distinct aroma of toasted popcorn. Not the butter on popcorn, but the actual fluffy white part. Rather odd. A non-ML chard, the flavors were crisp and clean, displaying green apple and light citrus notes. $26.00
2002 Napa Valley Argos – A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, and 25% Merlot. Including a bit of fruit from Howell Mountain, this wine has a rich, perfumey aroma of cocoa and black licorice behind a core of dark fruit. Spice shows itself first in the mouth and then cranberry in the middle. Smooth and easy, this is a balanced wine with an engaging mouth feel. $40.00
2002 Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – Another Howell Mountain offering, this was a tad more green than I expected from an ’02 Howell Mountain wine. Needing more time in the bottle, the aroma is high-pitched with red plum and fresh cherry. Hints of clove and cinnamon exist and it is obvious the wine is well-made with potential, but simply needs some aging to show its true merits. $42.00
1999 Reserve Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – This vineyard is also a hillside vineyard, just south of St. Helena on Howell Mountain, but technically not within the appellation. Having spent 32 months in French oak, there are dark herbs along with the intense fruit in the nose and a decidedly cranberry mouth entry. Dry in the mid-palate, the finish has a sage tone. $68.00
2004 Napa Valley Pinot Noir – Yes, I thought it odd that they would pour a Pinot at the end, after the Cabernets. Fruit forward nose is soft and earthy showing cherry and bright raspberry. Slightly sweet on the first taste, the bright red fruit flavors exist and expand into ripe, rich mushrooms and developed, complex spice. $42.00
Dutch Henry ~ 4310 Silverado Trail ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 888-224-5879