Hanzell – 98
Sunday, June 19th, 2005
It is no surprise that many are entranced with the wine country for its inherent, illusive magical qualities. Is it the mere beverage being produced? The landscape? The architecture? What is it about the wine industry (for it IS an industry!) that promotes an aura of mystique? I suppose it is why I moved here — as a sort of spiritual quest, like Gawain searching for the Grail. I doubt a single piece of the puzzle will be found within the entirety of my blog, as I travel from winery to winery, but in visiting Hanzell, part of what I have been searching for has been found.
Locating Hanzell takes some work. After a side road is taken just outside of downtown Sonoma, a small, one-lane, unpaved road is driven until such time as you are convinced you have gone the wrong way. Then, after a gentle curve and the return of a modicum of pavement, an A-frame building makes itself known; majestic and regal, surrounded by vineyards.
Much of what makes Hanzell so magical is its phoenix-like history. The stunning building that invokes so much mystery was the cause for much trouble and consternation several years ago. Built in 1956 by the original owner, James D. Zellerbach, in 2003 the drains in the production area showed elevated levels of the
chemical TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole). You can see the drains in both the upper and lower section of this picture. In a move that shocked the industry, CEO and President, Jean Arnold, spent hundreds of thousands of dollars researching the problem, limited release on wines that had to potential for taint, and rebuilt the entire production area. What could have been the death knoll to the less stalwart, Arnold refused to give up and in moving forward, has brought Hanzell back with a vengeance.
A visit to Hanzell starts with a vineyard tour with Ben Sessions. He drove me around and showed me what made their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes unique, much having to do with their locale and the cool air flow up from San Pablo bay. Being situated at 850 elevation, their neighbors immediately to the east and to the north are blocked from that cool air flow. Following in Zellerbach’s Burgundian tradition, there is a still a belief in the sense of terroir.
After driving through the vineyards, we walked through the newly constructed caves, where a most astonishing light fixture illuminates the great room. An iron-wrapped barrel with alternate staves removed and hung upside-down, provides shadows and a continuation to the magical sense pervading the property.
An appointment-only winery, the tastings are held in the building that is now only used for storage of new and library wines, next to doors that open up upon an amazing view of the vista below and in plain site of those very drains that caused the winery’s rebirth.
2002 Hanzell Chardonnay – Initial sweet aromas of clean melon, pear, and apple with hints of minerality and warm kiwi. These are coupled in the flavors that excite and expand to show layered lemon zest and a graceful, enticing mouthfeel that teases to a clean, balanced finish. $55.00
2001 Hanzel Pinot Noir – Astounding ‘wow’ factor with dark, elegant berry playing alongside dusty, smooth mineral qualities. Dark, musky wild strawberries couples with textured, elegant leather and subtle spice in the mid-palate. One of the most Burgundian of California Pinots I have tasted, an earthy depth proves exceptional quality and ageability. $85.00
Hanzell Vineyards ~ 18596 Lomita Avenue ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~ 707-996-3860