Kaz Winery – 144
Monday, August 22nd, 2005
I love it when wineries are slightly off-kilter. Favorites in the past have included Gundlach-Bundschu, Bonny Doon, and Roshambo. Now I can add Kaz Winery to that list. Several weeks ago the folks at Kaz dropped me an e-mail. Seems they had been reading the blog and wanted me to give them a visit the next time I was in the Kenwood neighborhood. Well, I am pleased to say that I stumbled on them quite by accident and while I always appreciate a personal invite to a winery, sometimes I have much more fun sneaking in under the radar.
Finding Kaz takes a little bit of work. They are located on a small side road behind the Landmark Vineyard and took some hunting. There is a small metal sign (picture above) at the base of the vineyards which surround their winery. But it is small and a relatively drab color which, on an overcast day, somewhat melded into the surrounding grey atmosphere. But a few feet further at the base of the entrance, flies this bright yellow flag which, when the wind dies down enough to read what seems to be hand-drawn glyphs, reads Kaz! There was some local community tasting (having to do with Chardonnays and Pinots, I think) on the day of my visit, but despite the fact that I did not have the appropriate color bracelet on during my visit, I was still treated with the same acerbic wit as everyone else in the tasting room.
As near as I can tell, the entire business complex — tasting room and wine-making facilities — are all located within a single a-frame barn. Getting to the building means driving through some vineyards, past a small rural home or two, and parking on an adjacent gravel lot.
The tasting room is small and cozy and has many interesting touches. The counters are course with patterns of leaves inset deep within the rich, textured surface. "Oh, my husband, Rick, made that." the ebullient blond exclaimed. As it turns out, Rick makes a lot of things around the winery, like the wine!
Rick Kasmier and wife, Sandi, are the proprietors and with tongue firmly planted in cheek, are not only producing organic wines, but also hilarious ad campaigns, artistically enticing labels, and a line of fascinatingly flavored mustards! My only complaint lies in the information on their website; their story (and names!) are only found within a Sunset article and not readily available through their site. One other point – as these are 100% organic wines, they tend to be slightly higher in acidity. I realized that much of the adjectives that continually crept up in my notes was bright. All of the wines, overall, are bright with heightened acidity.
2004 Blusche Trachet – Made from Nebbiolo Rosso, this rosé had a sweet aroma but not overtly candy-shop sweet. With 1% residual sugar, the hint of sweetness is well-sculpted. Layered exotic spice that is subtle and smooth. Clean and bright. $15.00
2004 Trixie’s Secret – Another rosé of Nebbiolo Rosso, but this one is bone dry. Still a hint of sweetness but deeper and more integrated and balanced. Clean and deep with a long developed finish. Great fun and easy to drink. $15.00
2003 Hoi Polloi Pinot Noir – Bouquet of fresh raspberry and cherry with undertones of earth and spice. Sweetish entry and a candy mid-palate. Brightens on this finish with a touch of minerality. $35.00
2000 Somwein – A blend of 60% Zinfandel, 25% Alicante Bouchet, and 15% Petite Sirah. Dusty floral aroma with some funk in the back of the nose. Sweet on the initial mouth entry but not deep. A light-bodied zinfandel blend. $30.00
2001 Flying Star – 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. Tremendously clean eucalyptus under which displays heaps of red fruit. Mostly floral on the tongue and more of those heightened acids on the finish. $32.00
2000 Klinch – 92% Syrah and 8% Alicante Bouchet. Some mint and then full, round candied dark fruit. Light thin entry and a decidedly tangy finish. $34.00
2003 Bravura, Barbera - More sweet red candy fruit on the nose. Bright, thin entry showing some candied red cinnamon with a bit of thin tin on the end. $30.00
White Port – Made from a Chardonnay. Sweet white flowers, blooming and exuding throughout a field on a hot afternoon leaving a longing, rustic spice in the back of the throat. Stunningly well-integrated and smooth. $25.00
2001 Syrah Port – Purple hyacinth flowers covered in dust. Sweet on the tongue with plummy tones. Tangy and acidic with a tease of cardamom. $30.00
Tawny Port – Made from the classic Portuguese grapes grown in Amador. Surprisingly ruby color, considering it is a tawny. Deep, dark spice with layers of nuts. Sweet entry showing jammy fruits in the mid-palate and a long finish teasing between provincial fruit and roasted hazelnut. $40.00
Kaz Winery ~ 233 Adobe Canyon Road ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-2536